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Old 01-31-2012, 12:23 PM   #21
CrazyOneToo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
So tis the season for the usual car runs rough on start up, misfires, CEL/MIL, stalling.
Hi guys. I have a 1999 328i sedan with a M52TU engine. My car idles up and down in cold weather then usually dies after a minute or two. It then starts fine and will run normal after the stall. I have replaced the intake elbow pieces and still does this. Changed the air and cabin filter and the plugs. I have checked into the VANOS answer but my mechanic thinks that isnt it. Stupid question goes here >>>> Does my car have this DISA valve?? <<<< I am not mechanically inclined but will try and can handle the minor stuff. Thanks for any help.



Oooops forgot to say I am not getting any codes on the dash....except the airbag light.
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Old 01-31-2012, 12:39 PM   #22
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Look over my thread completely, there are pictures and diagrams of the DISA and other items.

Yes your car should have a DISA valve.

Given the age of your car, I would think that every item in my list you need to address. It appears you have already changed the intake elbow, so that leaves, the DISA/DISA O-ring, CCV lower oil drain hose and the SAP check valve vacuum hose.
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Old 01-31-2012, 01:31 PM   #23
raptorman5174
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I replaced the DISA gasket yesterday but the car still has the same issues. I don't think my old gasket was bad as it had some resistance when I pulled it out. the gasket was only about $4 so I replaced it anyway.
i still have to do the blow test through the SAP valve to see if my vacuum leak is there and report back. I am also looking into seeing if the MAF may be a culprit here.
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Old 01-31-2012, 03:31 PM   #24
jfoj
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Skip the MAF, check your lower intake boot and I guarantee that you need to replace the CCV lower oil return hose if it is original.

The SAP vacuum lines can be checked fairly easily as well.

Follow my instructions and rule out the first 4 things before you replace any expensive parts.
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Lower hose fan switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 01-31-2012, 03:51 PM   #25
zwei e46
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Thanks for the o-ring tip op. Just ordered one from ebay for $7.99!

On my '99 323i, you can order just the o-ring and I changed it out. When we picked up my wifes '05 325xi, I planned on doing the same thing but was told you have to order the whole DISA unit.

Thanks again for the heads-up
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Old 02-01-2012, 01:17 PM   #26
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subscribed (getting p0313 & misfires)
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Old 02-01-2012, 01:50 PM   #27
CrazyOneToo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
Look over my thread completely, there are pictures and diagrams of the DISA and other items.

Yes your car should have a DISA valve.

Given the age of your car, I would think that every item in my list you need to address. It appears you have already changed the intake elbow, so that leaves, the DISA/DISA O-ring, CCV lower oil drain hose and the SAP check valve vacuum hose.
Thanks I'll do the DISA O-ring first. Found one a ECSTuning for $2.35.

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-328.../Disa/ES25713/
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Old 02-01-2012, 07:43 PM   #28
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I have an '01 330i with similar problems. A little different though as it idles normally, runs fine but a shudder around 2000 rpm. I have replaced the entire CCV setup (all hoses and CCV) and the intake ducts. All were failed/failing. Also sealed the DISA. GREAT tip in blowing into the SAP vacuum line!! My is flowing freely (bad). So, my question is how to you access the solenoid valve under the intake manifold? The leak is happening in that area. Thanks for the great info in this thread!
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Old 02-01-2012, 07:57 PM   #29
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Forgot to mention, NO codes at all. Everything seems as though it should be running fine! I definitely think its a vacuum leak though....thanks again!
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Old 02-02-2012, 01:31 AM   #30
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Update:
I traced the vacuum line from the SAP vacuum valve to a spot under the intake manifold (couldn't see it, what a PITA to get at!). Replaced the flex tubing at both ends and still get free flowing air under the manifold. I thought the line deadheads at the solenoid valve under the intake? Unless the solenoid valve itself is broken....in which case I don't see any way to get at it??? Still got the "shudder" at about 1500-2000 rpm. One thing I haven't mentioned is that I put in a UUC SSK a few weeks back....don't see how this could cause a shudder with the clutch disengaged....Totally frustrated!!
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Old 02-02-2012, 02:52 AM   #31
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In addition to the SAP vacuum contol lines, Parts #3 and 4, that you listed, you need to check the vacuum control solenoid, part #5, especially if the plastic pipe, part #4 has broken down. Mine was not working, because it had sucked in debris from the pipe breaking down. I replaced the lines, but was still only getting minimal vacuum. I was not able to clean it out well enough to be comfortable with it, so I replaced it. I posted some warnings about these lines a few months ago. It is good to see someone else mention them. The biggest problem is that they will not show up in a smoke test, unless the engine is dead cold when you start, and that is almost never the case. I searched for mentions of them back when I found my problem, and found nothing. I am glad you made a formal post pointing these hoses out as a problem area. It saves me the trouble of creating one! I was kicking myself for not taking pics when I found mine was in pieces, so I could create a post about it. My solution was to use a single piece of Teflon vacuum line, that was covered in braided stainless steel, so it could withstand the heat. The single piece seemed to make more sense than a multi piece setup, since the connectors on both ends of the solid pipe were broken, as well as other chunks missing from the entire length of the pipe. So far, the braided stainless steel over Teflon line has held up well. But, I have only driven about 300 miles since I replaced it last November.

Last edited by MJLavelle; 02-02-2012 at 02:53 AM.
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Old 02-02-2012, 07:04 AM   #32
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MJL,

Thanks for the tips and input on the clogged solenoid. I will add this detail to the thread so others can hopefully be aware of this as a possible sticky point.

I have not had to deal with trying to access this solenoid, but I can see it can be no fun to reach.
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Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose fan switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 02-03-2012, 03:06 AM   #33
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Do NOT buy the O-Ring from the clown on ebay (JDM-AUTO) http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/260693007...#ht_530wt_1185

You will only be disappointed with no communication or product! Useless as **** on a bull!
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Old 02-03-2012, 09:19 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
Skip the MAF, check your lower intake boot and I guarantee that you need to replace the CCV lower oil return hose if it is original.

The SAP vacuum lines can be checked fairly easily as well.

Follow my instructions and rule out the first 4 things before you replace any expensive parts.
i have already replaced the CCV and all related hose the go to that part. Both upper and lower intake boots are also brand new, both had tears in them. Just replaced the DISA O-Ring a couple of days ago. This morning the car ran fairly well I was surprised I'm going to clear all my codes and see which ones come back. Still have to do the SAP check I'll report back on my findings.
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Old 02-03-2012, 12:17 PM   #35
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Thanks I'll do the DISA O-ring first. Found one a ECSTuning for $2.35.

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-328.../Disa/ES25713/
Checked out the larger SAP hose today on a cold start up. It was gushing air out of the side. I have one on order and will replace the old one when the new one comes in. I'm hoping this fixes my cold start stall issue. The vacuum line is another story. When and if I can figure out how I'm going to get to the other end of it, I will replace it whether its bad or not.

You guys ROCK!!!!
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Old 02-04-2012, 05:53 PM   #36
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That's a great pic of the underside of the manifold! It really helps to see what I was groping at under there. Is removing the manifold the only way to get at the solenoid (part #5 in the RealOem diagram) that controls vacuum to the other valve (#1 in the diagram)? If anyone has any idea how to get at it, please let me know! Anyone ever removed it for service? I can blow through the vacuum line and it flows freely somewhere around the solenoid. I get a feeling the valve is stuck open, allowing me to blow past it into the intake manifold. Thanks for the great thread!
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Old 02-05-2012, 12:54 AM   #37
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Great thread! Glad one of my photos is being put to good use!

Sticky!!!
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Old 02-05-2012, 01:27 AM   #38
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I've had cold weather misfires for a bit and Finally found out the culprit! Figured I'd share my experience to help someone else. Turns out the -2 degrees outside actually cracked a cell in my battery, therefor, it wouldn't hold its charge. It was at 10.4 volts and it was causing low circuit misfires on all cylinders. I searched for hours finding nothing that fixed it. I got a new battery and its been misfire and cel free for 10 days.
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Old 02-05-2012, 02:44 AM   #39
Kirk330i
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So does anyone know the real operation of the vacuum circuit for the SAP system? I'm trying figure out why I'm have no resistance in the line from the vacuum actuated valve at the SAP and the electric solenoid valve under the intake runners. Let me see if I get this straight, and anyone with the knowledge please correct me, here's how I see it working;
- On a cold startup, the SAP turns on to flood the exhaust manifold with air (oxygen) helping to reduce emissions and help heat the CAT.
- Simultaneously, the DME sends an "open" signal to the solenoid valve under the intake runners. When this opens, it vacuum actuates the vacuum valve by the SAP to open, allowing air into the manifold.
- After approx. 90-120 sec., the SAP turns off (via DME command), and I'm assuming, the DME closes the intake solenoid valve thereby shutting off vacuum to the valve at the exhaust manifold and air into the manifold.
- Car warms up, all systems go.
Simple, right? So I'm trying to figure my best odds here before I start throwing $$ at it. If it's just a vacuum line gone bad, no problem (yeah right, if you're Houdini and can reach under there!). If the solenoid valve is shot, then I would like to buy it before ripping into the teardown (still haven't figured out the best way to get at the valve) and they aren't cheap! Sorry to all if I'm rambling, I just think that if I find out what's up with my shudder issue then it might help someone else with lean running issues. Thanks again for the thread!
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Old 02-05-2012, 05:06 AM   #40
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Checked out the larger SAP hose today on a cold start up. It was gushing air out of the side. I have one on order and will replace the old one when the new one comes in. I'm hoping this fixes my cold start stall issue. The vacuum line is another story. When and if I can figure out how I'm going to get to the other end of it, I will replace it whether its bad or not.

You guys ROCK!!!!
You need someone with small arms! I made my wife reach back there, and connect my new line. It was hard for her to reach too. I ended up removing the entire cabin filter housing. She was able to get her arm back there and reach the connection. She was not at all happy about it, and now she tells people how she fixed my car for me....
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