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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 02-19-2013, 01:42 PM   #481
jfoj
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GLHX,

Did your fuel trims ever get back into the normal range, less than 3% for LTFT after driving for a while?

Did your replacement MAF have the same type of screen and did it have the shiny mirror looking part. Just curious if the MAF internals looked the same as the new one?
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose fan switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 02-20-2013, 12:28 AM   #482
MJLavelle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glhx View Post
As Just to update my problems here.

It was caused by a bad maf sensor. The maf was under reporting air or showing not enough air going into the intake manifold. It mostly affected fuel trims going high during acceleration. My ltft were around 12 for both banks. Even though the Maf SHOWED not enough air......it doesn't mean that excess air wasnt going in. The excess air was going in. The maf. Just wasn't reporting it.

My maf
was fine at idle.....for the most part, it was only during acceleration when the problems occurred. We researched the maf and it was inconclusive, but everything pointed to a Chinese made maf sensor. It looked identical in every way to a stock maf. My new one has a Z after the part number which is located on top of the square in the maf.

The Chinese maf failed at around 20k from it being new.
;
A dirty maf. Can cause the same problems. The dirt creates a coating on the sensor. The coating acts as an insulator. The air that is supposed to flow over the Maf wire now flows over this dirt coating and throws off the reading. Hence under reporting air flow and causing lean codes.

The Chinese made one. Well.......they can reproduce plastic castings and housings. I guess they either don't like platinum. Or they don't like quality. Platinum is the coating on the maf. Wire that allows it to stay hot and its costly. Either way they can't copy the technology to make a. Good maf.
Where did you buy this MAF, or was it already on the car when you bought it? If you have already mentioned this, I apologize. I looked back through the thread, but I did not see this mentioned. There are several different discussions going on in here.
I know your main concern is getting your car fixed, but I was curious about where it came from, and if it was sold as a Siemens part, or if you bought it already knowing that it was not an OEM or Siemens part.
I ran into one exactly like this in the classifieds section on this site. The seller seemed confused when I asked if it was a genuine Siemens part, but he had listed it as a Siemens part. I finally asked for a photo of the Siemens part number, and it had the "Z" at the end of the part number, just as you mentioned. It was not clear to me if the seller knew it was counterfeit, or if he was just not too bright. I initially got the impression that he just did not know much about cars or parts, which was the only reason why I did not walk away as soon as it was clear that he was not sure what he had.
I dug around on Google, and found the same part being sold on eBay (of course) as Siemens MAF Sensors. But they also had the "Z" on them. The eBay seller had other listings that were clearly Chinese crap, so it was clear that this was a counterfeit part.
This is just another example of how bold the Chinese counterfeiters are now, and how important it is to only buy parts like this from reliable vendors.
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Old 02-20-2013, 12:07 PM   #483
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The fuel trims are varied. They went to 3.9 then to 2.3. I think right now they are at 4.7 which still seems high. Mind you......I won't speak of short term trims. Only the long term..........until the long term gets out of wack to a level above 5

My idle still seems kind of low. When I turn the a/c on it seems to go up to normal. There is also the vibration that comes with low idle. Motor mounts maybe but I doubt it. My next step is replacing the vanos seals. Still have the surging at shift. Let me know what you think. Knock on wood but all that is left is vanos seals were not replaced.....vanos solenoid. Also when putting load on the steering wheel the idle drops to 500 and vibrates more. I need a new thread for this.
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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

Will look into the mirror. I'm going to dissect the old one.

Last edited by glhx; 02-20-2013 at 02:42 PM.
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Old 02-20-2013, 12:15 PM   #484
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The original defective maf was not purchased by me. It was on the car when I bought it and was supposed to be new.

It has no markings on the top square of the maf......the part number is cast into the housing with NO Z on it

The one I just bought has the part number inked on the top square.....it has a Z on it. It was bought from BMA parts. I'm sort of skeptical on this maf as well. Idle seems to move up and down more......very very slightly. But......was my old maf masking other problems. What do vanos seals cause.....at idle

I think they are bold enough.....they are hacking defense contractors and power grids

Last edited by glhx; 02-20-2013 at 02:39 PM.
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Old 02-20-2013, 05:25 PM   #485
glhx
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As of this moment I'm hitting +3 fuel trims

And my mileage on the 1000 mile trip with a fully loaded car was 27.62 hard calculated with me doing the math and not the obc. This was driving 70mph total highway miles

The obc was always off by 1mpg

This is what the car got when I bought it.

When I was going 75mph I got 26mpg

Last edited by glhx; 02-20-2013 at 05:29 PM.
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Old 02-20-2013, 07:53 PM   #486
MJLavelle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glhx View Post
The original defective maf was not purchased by me. It was on the car when I bought it and was supposed to be new.

It has no markings on the top square of the maf......the part number is cast into the housing with NO Z on it

The one I just bought has the part number inked on the top square.....it has a Z on it. It was bought from BMA parts. I'm sort of skeptical on this maf as well. Idle seems to move up and down more......very very slightly. But......was my old maf masking other problems. What do vanos seals cause.....at idle

I think they are bold enough.....they are hacking defense contractors and power grids

So, the real one has a "Z" after the part number. Interesting. I guess the ones I saw were exact copies. I thought maybe they added the "Z" to avoid legal issues. But they were definitely knock offs, since they were only $100, and they were shipping from China. Thanks for answering!
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:08 AM   #487
glhx
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I bought mine from bma for the reputation. I hope they know where they are coming from.!

The weird thing is. I don't think the original part came with a z or a number printed on the top.

Last edited by glhx; 02-21-2013 at 11:32 AM.
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:16 PM   #488
MJLavelle
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Originally Posted by glhx View Post
I bought mine from bma for the reputation. I hope they know where they are coming from.!

The weird thing is. I don't think the original part came with a z or a number printed on the top.
I think the key is to look at the packaging. If it is very generic, or the label seems to be badly printed, or even misspelled, then I would be concerned. I really don't think that BMA would have a problem. But it is a concern, and it is getting harder to track.
I noticed that my Bosch O2 sensors came in a package that had a hologram sticker on it. I think this will be more common as time goes by, and the Chinese get more agressive. I always check out the packaging very well.
Last summer, there was a thread on here from someone who bought O2 sensors through Amazon. The ones sold directly by Amazon were out of stock, so he bought them from a 3rd party vendor. They arrived in a plain white box, with a faded label. I had bought from Amazon as well, but they were sold and fulfilled by Amazon. I was able to tell him that mine came in Bosch branded packaging, complete with a hologram sticker. It seemed that he got a generic part, and not a genuine Bosch part. We all advised that he return them.
I try to check out the packaging and the numbers on the parts as closely as possible. But it is only a matter of time before we see counterfeit packaging as well. The manufacturers really need to start using hologram sticker seals, and other methods to assure that we can verify the parts are real. I would guess that using serial numbers on each part, that could be looked up on a web site could work, but that would add a lot more complexity and cost to everything.
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Old 02-21-2013, 02:51 PM   #489
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I had the same worry about o2 sensors.

I bought from advance auto with the a124 coupon code and picked it up at the store. It was the same price as amazon and I knew I was getting the right o2 sensors
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Old 02-21-2013, 05:24 PM   #490
MJLavelle
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Originally Posted by glhx View Post
I had the same worry about o2 sensors.

I bought from advance auto with the a124 coupon code and picked it up at the store. It was the same price as amazon and I knew I was getting the right o2 sensors
Well, if it says "Sold and Fulfilled by Amazon.com", then it will be fine. It is the stuff you buy from other vendors that are selling through Amazon that you have to worry about. And, as I said, always check the packaging. It should not come in a plain box.
I got my O2 sensors from Amazon for $48 each, and they were the real deal. But you have to watch the details when ordering from them, or anyone else.
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Old 02-21-2013, 05:35 PM   #491
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Agree that typically sold and fulfilled by Amazon I have had very good luck with.

I have purchased quite a few O2 sensors from Amazon for BMW and other cars, always Bosch, never an issue.

Amazon is also a storefront for many smaller companies as well.

But what happens when even the "reliable" distribution chain gets a load of garbage that is counterfeit, then we are all in a world of problems!
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose fan switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 02-21-2013, 06:13 PM   #492
corollers
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+1
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Old 02-26-2013, 12:53 AM   #493
caliber
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Thanks for the write up in the first page. My car, a 99 328i, done over 230k kms, recently have typical problems. Cold start is very easy but it can not sit in stable idle, engine shake at idle even after warm up, gas smell at exhaust.

I have to pedal it above 1500 rpm until it warm up and then drive. At other speeds it does not have any problem but I feel slightly lack of power. Stops at traffic light or jams, the idle problem comes back. CEL was not on during all this time.

Given its age and I never done anything at the engine except regular plug, fliter & oil change, CCV and head cover gasket change once, I give it a try.

I replaced the DISA, upper intake, clean MAF and voila, problems gone. I let it idle for ten minutes and the rpm stays stable, engine runs smooth. Took it out for a short drive shows that engine runs fine.

I did not take a closer look at the old DISA but it is still in good shape, the flap is sturdy and it can hold its 1/4 position if I plug the vaccum hole with my finger. Don't know what happened.

I bought the lower intake boot as well. Since I did all this repair during lunch time and the screws of the hose clamps of the lower intake point downward so I can not remove it. What is the best way to get the two hose clamps of lower intake boot loosen? I don't want to go underneath the car.

Last edited by caliber; 02-26-2013 at 12:56 AM.
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Old 02-26-2013, 05:36 AM   #494
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caliber,

I have replaced the lower intake boot from under the hood. It's a bit tricky, but with the proper tools and patience you can do it.

See this post and the picture of the tools I use - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpos...&postcount=147

The 1/4 inch drive flex head ratchet and my super long flat blade screw driver are my best friends!
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose fan switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 03-31-2013, 04:07 AM   #495
MJLavelle
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I am now selling the Disa valve O-Rings for the M54B25 and M54B30 Disa valves (325 and 330 models only).
These are the same materials as the G.A.S. (German Auto Solutions) O-Rings.
I have the regular Silicone O-Rings for $2.00 each, which are the first ones listed in the G.A.S. page, and the Military/Aerospace grade Flurosilicone O-Rings for $6.00 each, which are the 3rd item listed in the G.A.S. link below:
http://germanautosolutions.com/bmw_s...sa_o_rings.php
I will guarantee that they are the same materials and same quality as the ones they are selling, and mine are less than 1/2 of their price.
I have heard that someone else was selling lesser quality Chinese made O-Rings, which may have been mentioned in this thread. I can assure you that these come from a reputable US owned O-Ring specialist:
http://www.marcorubber.com/index.htm
jfoj has OK'd me posting this info in his thread, but I am not implying that he is endorsing these. He can post his own opinions about their quality.

Link to the Flurosilicone O-Ring ad, for just $6.00 each:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=977861
Link to the Silicone O-Ring ad, for just $2.00 each:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=977722

Last edited by MJLavelle; 03-31-2013 at 05:23 AM.
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Old 03-31-2013, 04:02 PM   #496
jfoj
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MJ is really providing a service here to the forum.

His prices are reasonable. I was thinking about doing this a LONG time ago, but decided I just did not have enough time to devote to this and provide the level of service I would like to.

The standard silicon O-ring is fine in my opinion, but you might as well buy at least 2 so you can have a spare when you perform future DISA inspections.

Since MJ is a regular here, I would assume you will be a bit quicker about shipping and responding to requests. I know people that have purchased from the ebay person and it took a few weeks to arrive when you should have it in a few days.

Again, this is a decent price and hopefully good service to offer the board members here.

Good luck to MJ on making some beer money!!
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose fan switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 04-02-2013, 12:18 PM   #497
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Regarding the 325/330 DISA O-ring: You may wish to consider using only the silicone O-ring as it is rated to 450 degrees f whereas the comparable rubber O-ring is only rated to 250 degrees f. I found a package of the silicone O-rings at Grainger for less than $ 11.00. Here's their part #: O-Ring,Silicone,AS568A-138,PK 10.
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Old 04-02-2013, 03:26 PM   #498
MJLavelle
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Regarding the 325/330 DISA O-ring: You may wish to consider using only the silicone O-ring as it is rated to 450 degrees f whereas the comparable rubber O-ring is only rated to 250 degrees f. I found a package of the silicone O-rings at Grainger for less than $ 11.00. Here's their part #: O-Ring,Silicone,AS568A-138,PK 10.
Not to mention the fact that a standard rubber O-Ring will compress, and stay compressed. A silicone or flurosilicone O-Ring resists compression set, which is important because of the expansion and cooling of the Disa, as well as the fact that the Disa and the manifold will cool at different rates. A rubber O-Ring may compress when you install it, and start leaking after a few heat cycles, because it can not spring back from the compressed state.
This is similar to the issue with the original O-Rings in the VANOS, which were not able to rebound properly from a compressed state. Although they were not rubber, they just did not have the correct compression/rebound properties for the application.

And yes, you can buy packs of 10 for fairly low prices, but most people do not need 10 O-Rings. That is why I have extras to sell. I just set my prices to 50% less than the most common source, German Auto Solutions. But, I am not exactly getting rich off of this. I just figured that people would appreciate a lower cost alternative for one or two O-Rings.
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Old 04-03-2013, 12:44 AM   #499
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Grainger isn't a member of this site......and they are not telling us solutions to our problem. MJLavelle ftw...
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:12 PM   #500
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jfoj - is the o ring from GAS fine for a 04' 330ci DISA?
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