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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 02-13-2012, 02:02 PM   #61
forzam
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This guy designed and built a DISA fix. Wondering what you guys think of this for $92 shipped.
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Old 02-13-2012, 03:28 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by forzam View Post
This guy designed and built a DISA fix. Wondering what you guys think of this for $92 shipped.
I will know by the end of the month when he gets the titanium hardware in.

I jump on this kind of stuff because you never know when it will be NLA especially custom things like this.
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Old 02-13-2012, 03:45 PM   #63
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What everyone needs to understand about the DISA, there are many parts to it that can fail, not just the butterfly shaft.

The $92 fix only addresses one failure mode of the DISA and it does not really do that so well in my opinion.

In addition to the butterfly valve, there is a vacuum actuator that does fail and when it does, guess what, another vacuum leak and the DISA does not perform properly.

There is an electrical solenoid that controls the valve that can fail and leak vacuum as well and will not control the DISA.

I have not seen this, but it is possible the DISA case could crack and leak vacuum as well.

A new DISA is about $175 on line and if you replace it with a new one, chances are you will never need to replace it again as long as you own your car.

If it was me, I would never waste the time or money to partially fix the DISA when the partial fix is about 65-70% the cost of a completely new unit.

Just something to think about while you ponder buying some partial rebuild kit.
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Last edited by jfoj; 02-13-2012 at 03:47 PM.
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Old 02-14-2012, 07:44 PM   #64
mach.schnell
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If it was me, I would never waste the time or money to partially fix the DISA when the partial fix is about 65-70% the cost of a completely new unit.
What concerns me (though I will ponder this a bit further) is the weight diffrence between the plastic and the aluminum. The vacuum is designed to "pull" only so much weight over a quick burst of time. I didn't see anything to address this (but maybe I missed it).

In addition, I don't see how the CCV rubber diaphragm failure (from freezing) can be solved by replacing the housing with a material (metal) that loses heat faster. How does that make sense?

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Old 02-14-2012, 08:27 PM   #65
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so the DISA isnt supposed to make noise? mine sounded like a rattle when i took it off last spring
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Old 02-14-2012, 09:56 PM   #66
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DISA should make no noise at all. Either when you shake it once it is removed from the engine and/or while installed in the car. The butterfly should have no play on the actuator shaft or on the rear hinge pin. Bad DISA's wear out the actuator shaft and inside of the butterfly. One guy was fixing the wear by putting epoxy inside the butterfly and reinserting the worn actuator. Yes this may work, but the DISA has a number of other failure modes that are mostly to leak vacuum and cause lean conditions and misfires.

IMHO, foolish to even try to make "repair" kits for these things. Just replace it when it goes bad. You may only need to replace it once or twice during the entire life of the car. Stupid easy to check and change.

As for the CCV, hot oil vapors deposit on inside of tubes over time. At some point parts need to be replaced just due to oil vapor build up.

As for freezing issues, insulation will help a bit, however, I wonder how much of a freezing problem when the CCV is new and properly functioning?? I think the only real fix would be to heat the CCV? BMW has an electric retrofit for the X5, however, I wonder if you were to somehow wrap the CCV and the oil drain hose with 1/4" tubing and run the engine coolant through the tubing??
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Old 02-14-2012, 10:03 PM   #67
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My disa failed at the diaphragm part. Makes a horrible noise at idle. I've been nursing it by with a shot of wd40 every now and then. It must seal it enough to stop leaking( very temporary). Replacement is on the way.
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Old 02-14-2012, 10:27 PM   #68
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Great info
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Old 02-14-2012, 10:34 PM   #69
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That's the thing with the DISA, when the diaphragm blows, which it will after 6-7+ years, no matter what you do to the butterfly, you will still have a poorly operating DISA that leaks vacuum and causes lean problems. There is also a shaft seal on the actuator arm, this seal can leak vacuum as well and when the DISA actuator gets loose in the butterfly valve, the seal will most likely leak more vacuum. And lets not forget about the primary DISA seal within the intake. So you are looking at least 3 major failure modes with the DISA not even dealing with the electrical solenoid or the rear pin falling into the engine!

The lean problems may not be an issue until the cold weather hits because the way the DISA works is it has a small hole that is on the front side of the intake where the vacuum is sourced, near cylinder #3. So even if the diaphragm blows you will only have a "calibrated" vacuum leak. This "calibrated" vacuum leak may just be one more leak on top of the many others these engines will have as they age.

The large body of the DISA is actually a vacuum reservoir to store vacuum to operate the DISA multiple times in a row if needed. The DISA opens to allow intake airflow pulses to act as charge air to push the intake air into opposing intake ports with more force to make more torque within a certain RPM range.

When the DISA fails, you end up with lean problems due to vacuum leaks, loose out on cold start performance and the torque improvement when the DISA is supposed to function.

It's beyond me why when the DISA fails anyone would want to speed close to $100 to partially repair it. Just bite the bullet and buy a new one, while you are at it replace the lower intake boot and the lower CCV oil return line at a minimum, these 3 things can cause you all kinds of headaches and the intake boot and CCV hose together are only around $30 online.
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Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

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Old 02-15-2012, 02:28 AM   #70
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How many time work secundari air pump in cold start?...please....in my 330xi....about 44 seconds....
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Old 02-15-2012, 05:22 AM   #71
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SAP typically runs about 90 seconds, BUT, it may differ in run time because of other factors like possibly engine coolant or ambient temp.

SAP run time may not be an issue, unless you have some sort of SAP code(s).
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Old 02-15-2012, 10:41 AM   #72
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Quote:
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As for the CCV, hot oil vapors deposit on inside of tubes over time.
To be more precise, hot emulsified oil deposits build up inside the tubes (i.e. the "mayo goo"). A synthetic oil that does not emulsify with water should not build up.

Other than "normal" wear and tear on the rubber diaphgram, the major design flaw is the too narrow drain inlet to the oil pan at the base of the dipstick guide tube. (The tube within tube design.) Unfortunately, the new design will cause the dipstick to catch on the edge of the new "Y" inlet.

I still think you will have greater freezing issues with an aluminum housing causing a higher emulsion rate. The insulated jacket is only meant to slow down freezing over time to reduce emulsion activity, but yes, Mann (the designers of the CCV system) also created an electric plug to prevent freezing. Volvo uses this, BMW didn't. Their newer engines puts the rubber control valve diaphragm in the back of the valve cover.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
BMW has an electric retrofit for the X5, however, I wonder if you were to somehow wrap the CCV and the oil drain hose with 1/4" tubing and run the engine coolant through the tubing??
Great, more thinking to do.

Mach
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Old 02-15-2012, 01:47 PM   #73
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Where did pick up the signal from the engine temperature?
the engine has three temperature probes. A thermostat. 2 radiator. 3 back of the head ...
Where do take the ambient temperature signal? maf?
As we are looking for air intakes and the temperature signal is wrong ..... can it be?
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...69&hg=11&fg=15 nš3
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...15&hg=17&fg=05 nš4
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...80&hg=11&fg=35
thanks

Last edited by divad31; 02-15-2012 at 02:13 PM.
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Old 02-15-2012, 01:52 PM   #74
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Unfortunately the synthetic oils do sludge up, and to a point I think at times more so than petroleum based oils. Or at least the synthetics behave very differently and do not take to solvents very well from what I have seen.

I have seen the inside of many CCV hoses and they are not so pretty/ But again, I also think that the addition of Ethanol to the fuels has caused more issues as well. Maybe due to the the Ethanol absorbing water vapor more easily than the fuel??

Just look at the 1.8tl Audi & VW engines, the oil pick ups became restricted very badly, even when running fully synthetic oils. Maybe the turbos cooked the oil more, but the turbo should have heated the oil sufficiently to "cook" most of the water vapor out of the crankcase?

Also agree that Aluminum is a VERY good conductor of heat. So what heat you have in the oil separator with be quickly and efficiently transferred to the cold engine compartment.

Interesting, did not know that there were some heated CCV's were used on other brands, but it does make sense.

Still think that many of the CCV freeze ups are due to the sludge build up and collapse of the lower CCV oil drain hose and dipstick tube?? This buildup and restriction just keeps the oil from draining easily back into the crankcase?

Seems almost all the reports are coming with higher mileage cars?? Maybe we all just missed the problems while under warranty as all these cars probably went to the dealer and we did not hear about them?
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Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

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Old 02-15-2012, 02:08 PM   #75
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so my car is letting out thick white smoke after it gets an oil change or randomly when i start it up. can a scanner tell the problem ?
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Old 02-15-2012, 02:24 PM   #76
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divad31

IAT - Intake Air Temp sensor is located in the intake path between cylinder #3 & #4 underneath the main engine cover, not the valve cover.

Not sure the IAT is located the same place for all engines, but this is where I have seen it most often.

Based upon your RealOEM link, see this,

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...79&hg=11&fg=40

Not obvious where it goes from the diagram, but it is on top of the intake between #3 & #4 intake runner.
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Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

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Old 02-15-2012, 08:56 PM   #77
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Old 02-16-2012, 05:57 PM   #78
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Quote:
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Interesting, did not know that there were some heated CCV's were used on other brands, but it does make sense.
https://www.mann-hummel.com/company/...BEBKWEg4Jk.pdf

Last page shows the Mann diaphragm check valve that has a plug for the heater wires.


THERE IT IS... PTC nipples....

https://www.mann-hummel.com/crankcas...s=19.5.237.0.0
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Old 02-17-2012, 09:32 AM   #79
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Has anyone changed the part # 3? What use is this sensor? I suspect that is the reason ..... anyone?
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...69&hg=11&fg=15
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Old 02-17-2012, 10:06 AM   #80
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#3 looks like the coolant temp sender.

Not sure these go bad often, at least I have not heard these to be a big issue.

You can probably confirm the proper operation of the coolant temp sender by looking at the link below in my signature - Hidden OBC Menu and bringing up the engine coolant temp.

This should show you the value the coolant temp sender is reading/sending to the DME and the coolant gauge on the dashboard.

Beware the coolant temp gauge is really set to register mid point over a very wide temp range of about 55F as I recall? I think the E46 non M cars will run in the area of 79-110C or 175-230F?

If you search the board here there is more info on the thermostat and engine coolant temps.
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Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

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