Cold weather misfires and CEL, common issues $50 fix!

Thanks

How to check for failure? Number 3. But that is the same for sensor temperature gauge?
The engine have 3 temperature sensor......
What for dme? What for gauge? And what for test 7.0?
I AM SPANISH AND MY ENGLISH IS GOOGLE ....SORRY...

So I just got done replacing the ccv with the 4 hoses... Car idles smoother now, although it drives like it lost a lot of torque! No power almost... Also.. My ccv kit from bavauto came with a tube and o-ring gasket that was not mentioned on the video on YouTube.

Make sure your MAF is properly connected and you have no hose leaks.

If it is running that bad, you should have a CEL on?

Also if the DISA is not working correctly, it can cause loss of torque in certain RPM ranges as well.

Thanks bro great write up found one problem already slowly working on the kinks

Sent from my N860 using Bimmer App

2004 325CIc Auto M54 Engine 97k miles

SES light came on and i got P0171 and P0174 Bank 1 and 2 to lean.

Changed the following:

fuel pump (failed)
fuel filter (as a precaution)
air filter (as part of maintenance)
Fuel separator
all vacuum lines for Fuel separator
intake manifold gasket
throttle gasket (and cleaned it)
both intake tubes
MAF sensor


all parts are OEM from BMW. cleared the codes today so far so no SES light on yet. vehicle runs good, lots of power and good speed. however, it does not idle softly. the RPM is fluctuating mildly and im getting bad vibration when the car is engaged in gear ( D or R ). i just found this thread and will check the DISA and ICV tomorrow. hope i dont have to spend another $400 on a new DISA and/or ICV.

Originally Posted by NIVO

You can use this, cheap and they work:
http://www.oringsandmore.com/servlet/the-958/Viton-Rubber-Orings-/Detail

I forgot to take pics of the Viton O-ring that fits on the groove of the DISA Valve so check this out.

I had tried with the Fel-Pro but it's not even a close match in how it fits.

I tried the Orings and More Viton gasket and went right in and flat against manifold. Price paid... $4.25 shipped for 5 O-rings.

http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/?page_id=607

Silicone: http://www.oringsandmore.com/servlet/the-44/Silicone-o-dsh-rings-Size-140/Detail

• 75 Durometer Silicone Rubber Orings
• Silicone rubber has a wide temperature range which makes it useful in many applications. Temperature range: -103°F to 446°F (-73° 260°C). Excellent resistance to compression set, good electrical properties, good resistance to weathering. Moderately resistant to high aniline point oils and should not be used with low aniline point oils.
• Color Red

Viton Rubber: http://www.oringsandmore.com/servlet...Orings-/Detail

• 75 Durometer Rubber Viton Orings A general purpose Viton® (Fluorocarbon Elastomer) compound suitable for applications requiring resistance to high temperatures and compression set. Outstanding resistance to blended aromatic fuels and straight aromatics as well as halogenated hydrocarbons. Good resistance to strong acids and steam. Temperature range -20° to 400°F (-29° to 204°C).

I edited my original post and removed the Fel-Pro reference as it is 1/8" thickness and you need a 3/32" thickness O-ring a while ago as I did find that it was not the best solution..

Unfortunatley I have yet to find an O-ring that most auto parts stores carry as a suitable replacemement that might be for a different application.

There are many online O-ring suppliers to choose from that do offer suitable replacement.

I would probably stick with a silicon part as these plastic parts expand and contract quite a bit and silicon has more compression ability than some of the harder rubber formulas.

well i removed the ICV today and it was basically almost stuck. i shook it but it barely moved. it took half a bottle of carb cleaner to get it to start moving side to side when i shook it. good clean and put it back. i also looked at the DISA and i think its bad. the little door is completely loos and moves back and forward when i shake it. also i hear a light rattle when i shake it. at this point after all this money spent i dont know if i want to dish out another $250 for a new one. i cleaned it, put some silicone around the o ring and installed back. the idle is still little shaky and the car vibrates in idle (when the car is in gear D or R)

going to Honda to trade in the car tomorrow so i will put off the repair till i find out what they offer me for the car.

Sounds like you need a DISA as well.

But a Honda will solve your problem too!

Originally Posted by jfoj

IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor O-ring leakage, O-ring is cheap and easy replace. BMW Part #13621743299 Note the IAT is located between intake runner #3 & #4 under the main engine cover.
ICV and its L shaped hose that connect near the throttle body.
Throttle body O-ring.
Upper intake flexible boot from MAF to coupler.
Power brake booster vacuum hose.
Air pump check valve vacuum hose.
Idle control valve and associated hoses.
Dip stick O-ring(s).
Fuel injector O-rings.
Oil fill cap.
Valve cover gaskets and small top seals.
Air distribution manifold and O-rings, over top of the intake manifold with a connection to each intake with an O-ring.
Fuel pressure regulator vacuum hoses.
EVAP hoses and valve.
VANOS seals, usually cause more MPG loss and upper RPM loss of performance, however, many have claimed that VANOS seals have help these issues.

Almost all of intake air leaks can cause misfire codes, O2 sensor codes, fuel trim codes, rough running and stalling. All these parts are basically rubber and after 7+ years and are starting to fail because they are subjected to high heat, gas and oil vapors, thermal cycling and vibration and it is time that they be replaced.

I had a car the other day with over 12 CEL/MIL trouble codes that included misfires on individual cylinders, misfires on multiple cylinders, O2 sensor out of range, O2 sensor codes, fuel trim codes.

Turns out the primary problem was the $11 CCV oil return hose between the CCV and the dip stick tube, also the DISA O-ring was rather loose. $25 later no CEL/MIL, no trouble codes, no misfires or rough running.

Quick suggestion, if you car is running poorly now that the weather is cold, replace at least the lower intake elbow, the DISA O-ring and the CCV lower oil return hose, clear the DME codes, about $50. Then worry about other things if the car is still running poorly or has additional CEL/MIL codes.

Other items that can cause problems and need to be kept in mind are (in not specific order): VANOS seals, MAF, Fuel Pump & Pressure Regulator, Coils & Coil Boots, Spark Plugs, O2 Sensors, Cam and Crank Sensors.

Can someone tell me exactly where this IAT sensor is mounted?? I took both engine covers off the other day and couldn't find mine. The REAL OEM site shows my car to have one but doesn't show where it mounts. Is it under the rail that's runs down the side of the engine? Sorry....I'm NOT mechanically inclined.

I believe on most engines it is located between intake runners #3 & #4 under the main engine cover, next to the valve cover?

But I realize you have a 1999 328 in your profile, I do not know that engine as well as the 325/330 series, so it may be in a slightly different location?

ohh and i found this dude selling the o ring on ebay ... http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E46-330-...#ht_530wt_1133

I have this link in my main post at the beginning of this thread. Altough expensive and a bit slow to ship, they are correct for the application from what I can tell. If you do you homework you can find many other sources, maybe not locally?

Originally Posted by caliboy

ohh and i found this dude selling the o ring on ebay ... http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E46-330-...#ht_530wt_1133

This guy is useless to deal with. Would not recommend him unless you want the stress in waiting for him to reply.

well i was wrong about my last post. my DISA did not rattle it was the ICV. i took it off today and it was jammed with ****. i flooded it with carb cleaner a few time till it ran out clear.

Curious on how many here have checked their ICV and how badly they are carboned/gummed up? Age and mileage might be a useful bit of info for others to judge at what mileage they get really bad.

Also for those that have removed and cleaned their ICV, did they also replace the rubber elbow/o-ring?

Lastly for anyone that had pulled the ICV, cleaned it and reinstalled, how much change did it make for the rough running/misfires, idle stability & stalling?

I can see where if the ICV is gummed up badly, it may not be able to control the cold idle well and it may also be slow to react to attempt to control the idle.

I now have 124k and mine still was decent, just lots of build up but still functioned correctly. I cleaned it and no change in idle.
Great post BTW, "excellent rating"

Originally Posted by jfoj

Curious on how many here have checked their ICV and how badly they are carboned/gummed up? Age and mileage might be a useful bit of info for others to judge at what mileage they get really bad.

Also for those that have removed and cleaned their ICV, did they also replace the rubber elbow/o-ring?

Lastly for anyone that had pulled the ICV, cleaned it and reinstalled, how much change did it make for the rough running/misfires, idle stability & stalling?

I can see where if the ICV is gummed up badly, it may not be able to control the cold idle well and it may also be slow to react to attempt to control the idle.

I'm thinking climate would be a factor also. Around here we get it all. Ice storms in winter and 110 degree summers with very high humidity. I would also imagine the type of roads would matter. Highways vs. round town driving. If you live in the country you would get more dust than city drivers. Especially if you don't change the air filter often. Wouldn't that dust be passed into the engine eventually??? There would be lots of variables I would imagine.

97k miles on my 2004 325Cic VERT .. the ICV was basically stuck. at first there was no movement when i shook it. took about a bottle of CARB cleaner to get it nice and loos where it would open and close when i jerked it. it did not however, take care of the problem. RPS still fluctuates and i get vibration when car is at idle. in my case the DISA is probably bad as well.