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Old 12-25-2013, 06:25 AM   #101
GuidoK
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I don't know. Maybe they have a list what kit/customer came with the 83mm ts2 pulley and who got the 85mm pulley.
My kit is from aug 2011 and came with the 83mm pulley.
And my car hasn't done extreme mileage. (back then about 100k km/ 65k miles, and now about 75k miles)
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Old 12-25-2013, 06:27 AM   #102
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I might have an 81mm and an 83mm sitting around if anyone wants or needs it.
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Old 12-25-2013, 06:40 AM   #103
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what diameter pulley do you use now?
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Old 12-25-2013, 07:23 AM   #104
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I would have to measure but it is for 16lbs - mine is TS3
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Old 12-25-2013, 08:52 AM   #105
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oh, ts3. that's nice.
16psi pulley is 60mm (14psi pulley is 68mm) afaik.
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Old 12-25-2013, 09:47 AM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuidoK View Post
I've bought the ts2+ kit last spring and that came with the 81mm pulley (I've measured it, because the 81mm pulley didn't have '81mm' engraved, it was blank). And I know one person who bought the ts2+ kit in november and it also had the 81mm pulley afaik.

Otherwise it wouldn't be much of an upgrade (apart from the required cams/headers ofcourse)
do you have also the cams? are strictly necessary the cams?
how was your experience with your HP/Torque gain?
do you have dyno graph and numbers?

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Old 12-25-2013, 01:00 PM   #107
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Yes I have FI cams (schrick 248/256) and headers/200cel cats.
The ts2+ DME tune only works well with the cams I think.
There is a noticable torque gain. The engine feels more 'eager'. And there is much more wheelspin during acceleration.

I haven't had it on a dyno yet; first I want to upgrade the rest of the exhaust (catback), but I saw a ts2+ dyno recently on a dynapack (axle dynometer) that did 328.4bhp (299.3ft/lb) to the wheels, so that's a pretty nice score. (so at least ess isn't exaggerating their results/specs)

I don't know what just a larger pulley will do. Especially the stock exhaust manifold is pretty restricting. Also the stock cam timing is optimized for NA ofcourse. With FI the air is forced into the cilinder at higher air velocity, so the exhaust cam should close the exhaust valve (relative) more quickly (at least that's what I understood from that particular FI cam combo)
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Old 12-25-2013, 04:05 PM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuidoK View Post
Yes I have FI cams (schrick 248/256) and headers/200cel cats.
The ts2+ DME tune only works well with the cams I think.
There is a noticable torque gain. The engine feels more 'eager'. And there is much more wheelspin during acceleration.

I haven't had it on a dyno yet; first I want to upgrade the rest of the exhaust (catback), but I saw a ts2+ dyno recently on a dynapack (axle dynometer) that did 328.4bhp (299.3ft/lb) to the wheels, so that's a pretty nice score. (so at least ess isn't exaggerating their results/specs)

I don't know what just a larger pulley will do. Especially the stock exhaust manifold is pretty restricting. Also the stock cam timing is optimized for NA ofcourse. With FI the air is forced into the cilinder at higher air velocity, so the exhaust cam should close the exhaust valve (relative) more quickly (at least that's what I understood from that particular FI cam combo)
thanks bro, I just bought the ESS T2+ but I do not have the cams, just only the headers and single exhaust pipe 2.5" do it by me.....

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Old 12-25-2013, 04:19 PM   #109
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Ok.

If you ever want to know why the FI cams are so different than the NA cams, there are a lot of articles to be found on the www. It all has to do with that NA engines need a bigger valve timing overlap (and there is even a difference between turbo's, centrifugal sc and volumetric sc).
http://www.hotrod.com/pitstop/hrdp_1...arged_engines/

I'd say: save up for the cams, and be very careful not to brake them! they are very hard&brittle. I had one broken during transport (poorly packaged by the supplier, but I got a new one, so it worked out all fine)
With FI cams you will experience some worse idle running, especially with the cold start. (when the engine is warm it runs fine). At least that's my experience.
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Old 03-07-2014, 06:27 PM   #110
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I rcvd mine and installed it - easy install and I no longer hear a little gurgle after the car (and the marine pump) turns off
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Old 03-25-2014, 01:44 PM   #111
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I purchased a 330CI with the ESS TS1 already on. Never had an FI or BMW before so I took the plunge. The problem with never having either one before is I don't know anything about it. However, I did have it dyno'd and I'm sitting at 246rwp. The dyno on ESS says I should be making 268 is their any reason for a 20hp drop? I have no cats on it and it smells rich and I have asked ESS and they say I don't need a remap. I would like to get to 300+ rwp any suggestions? Oh, is the TS1 noisy? It sounds like something is wrong to me but the speed shop guy says thats how they sound.
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Old 03-25-2014, 01:47 PM   #112
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I purchased a 330CI with the ESS TS1 already on. Never had an FI or BMW before so I took the plunge. The problem with never having either one before is I don't know anything about it. However, I did have it dyno'd and I'm sitting at 246rwp. The dyno on ESS says I should be making 268 is their any reason for a 20hp drop? I have no cats on it and it smells rich and I have asked ESS and they say I don't need a remap. I would like to get to 300+ rwp any suggestions? Oh, is the TS1 noisy? It sounds like something is wrong to me but the speed shop guy says thats how they sound.
268 hp to the wheels or to the cranck?
if you want 300WHP need to upgrade to TS2+




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Old 03-25-2014, 02:37 PM   #113
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I believe thats to the wheels.
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Old 03-25-2014, 02:41 PM   #114
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ESS always put they HP numbers in the webpage to the cranck......


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Old 03-25-2014, 02:42 PM   #115
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Dyno's vary a great deal depending on dyno brand.


also ambient temperature, altitude and gas quality are influences.

Did you dyno it on a dynojet? (that is the brand ESS uses I think (and some others like AA too I think))

I doubt that a retune would make the difference, unless they really retune it (mostly ignition timing, but that will put excessive load on your rod bearings etc, so that may not be wise)



Most FI kits/tunes smell rich (precaution). Better a bit rich than lean

The cranck/rwhp conversion at ESS is just a factor 0,85, so no dodgy dyno-manufacturer related parameters.
So m54b30 ESS TS1 rwhp on a dynojet should give you about 275rwhp

You might check your injectors: ESS has upgraded injectors (better atomization) on their site for really old kits:
http://www.esstuning.com/products/M5...ector-kit.html
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Old 03-25-2014, 03:55 PM   #116
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Thanks for the replies

JD- I was under the impression that was to the wheels. So that would make since if ESS does it to the crank.

GuidoK-It was a Dynojet and I was running 91 octane from shell. ESS did inform me of the new injectors as I am running the old ones. I'm not sure what I expected with a sc but it just seems as if something is off. I mean I lose to a lot of cars I shouldnt be and I'm talking about regular ole factory cars. Just suprises me some of the cars that pull off. I've looked at getting a smaller pulley, headers and even water/meth kit( cant afford TS2 upgrade). When I spoke with ESS they said I could try a smaller pulley but would need 93 octane and only one place sells it here. I'm getting the new injectors in a couples of weeks maybe that will help. Anything else I am missing that might speed me up or could be the cause of me not hitting higher whp? oh, I'm looking at running German Castrol 0w 40 for oil or should I be running 10W60? Thanks again for the replies I've been on here for awhile but try not to be a noob nuisance.

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Old 03-25-2014, 04:11 PM   #117
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I run 10w60, but I have ts2+

Imho there's no need for thicker oil when you don't use a lot of oil. My engine was pretty thirsty; 1l in 1200miles or so (m54b30 is known for it).
When I started refilling with another brand (some valvoline stuff I think) 10w40 it got better, so I wanted to try 10w60.

It's really hard to tell you if there's something wrong or not through a computer screen. But just running rich (what was your afr@dyno, can you post graph runs? (both power/torque and afr) is not a big deal.
Running lean gives more (some) power, but the risk (burning valve seats) is not worth it. Most tuners want afr 11,5-12 or something like that. Especially when not upgrading the cams.
octane 93 is always better.
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Old 03-25-2014, 04:25 PM   #118
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I will post my dyno results when I get to the house and I would love to give you my afr but for some reason nobody has ever put a gauge in it. That is also on my to do list with the injectors. It worries me not knowing what it is.
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Old 03-25-2014, 04:54 PM   #119
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They did not measure it during the dyno?
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Old 03-25-2014, 07:19 PM   #120
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all the hp numbers in ess webpage are always to the cranck and not
to the wheels....

with my PLX AFR gauge, in idle I have 14.5 AFR and WOT 11.5~12.00 AFR.....
next month I post my dyno graph......


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