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Old 02-16-2012, 09:49 PM   #21
Nervous
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Guys, I have a question. I am looking at wiring diagram of clutch switch now. My car is produced in 07/2000, even though it is 2001 330ci. The diagram is different for cars with production year starting from 03/2001. As far as I understand, instead of hall-effect 4-wired switch mounted on a clutch master cylinder, my car should use the switch mounted on the pedal (similar to brake light switch) and it has only 3 wires. The absent wire ought to go to EWS 8-pin. Am I right that I need to go with the start-lock switch and I don't need to worry about EWS 8-pin?
I read neil's DIY and his car even older - 328ci - and he still used the 4-wired hall-effect switch and wired the 8-pin.... I am confused a bit.
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Old 02-24-2012, 11:37 PM   #22
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Update. Finally the steptronic is out! I had hard time unbolting it, especially the bolt #9:


Bolts #8 and #9 are identical and I managed to take #8 off with E14 socket But it is really E16! And #9 too, but I also tried to get E14 socket on it. Didn't work and I was frustrated because I didn't understand why. Then I re-read TitaniumCracium's swap topic and he mentions that some bolts are E16. This gave me an idea to try E16 and it worked. So, the pic above shows which socket to use for each bolt. Here are the bolts themselves:


I used a cheapest transmission jack from Harbor Freight, the $79.99 one (minus 10% discount):


It worked perfectly, but its lowest position is pretty high:


Not a big deal though, I just dragged the tranny off the jack and slide it away. But first I removed the TC:






This is a ZF tranny, it was re-manufactured by BMW and it has about 75Kmiles on it. I even have a receipt somewhere, it cost about $4K to previous owner due to infamous 'no reverse' issue with the original tranny.


The tranny and TC will be on sale soon, if someone from MD, DE, PA, VA is interested - shoot me a PM. It works perfectly, tranny fluid was changed a couple of times during these 75Kmiles.

Next - removal of flywheel, starter replacement, rear main seal, new flywheel, clutch.
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Old 02-25-2012, 12:21 AM   #23
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Nice progress! PM your exact manufacture date and I'll look at the wiring diagrams to figure out your neutral safety switch/ews dilemma.

BTW - if you're replacing the O2 sensors, strip the sheething off of the old O2 sensor wires and use it to cover the reverse wiring wires, unless you have the actual wiring loom.
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Last edited by TitaniumCranium; 02-25-2012 at 12:25 AM.
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Old 02-25-2012, 12:29 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nervous View Post
Guys, I have a question. I am looking at wiring diagram of clutch switch now. My car is produced in 07/2000, even though it is 2001 330ci. The diagram is different for cars with production year starting from 03/2001. As far as I understand, instead of hall-effect 4-wired switch mounted on a clutch master cylinder, my car should use the switch mounted on the pedal (similar to brake light switch) and it has only 3 wires. The absent wire ought to go to EWS 8-pin. Am I right that I need to go with the start-lock switch and I don't need to worry about EWS 8-pin?
I read neil's DIY and his car even older - 328ci - and he still used the 4-wired hall-effect switch and wired the 8-pin.... I am confused a bit.
You only need the new style 4-wire hall effect module (61319231129)--if you are going to modernize your pre-LCI, then don't hold back and go with the flow. Confirmed on a prod. 12/2k, so no old school clutch switches! Have fun soldiering to the short brake wiring.
  • From clutch module wire 1 (brown/black) to wire 2 of brake sw (same color).
  • From clutch module wire 2 (blue/brown) to pin 23 of DME module X6004.
  • From clutch module wire 3 (purple/yellow) to wire 1 of brake sw (same color).
  • From clutch module wire 4 (blue/black) to pin 8 of EWS.
Also no one ever mentioned this but whatever you do, don't remove the shift lock cable going to your steering column (other end went to slush shifter). If you remove this cable, the next time you put your key in the ignition then try to remove it, you will not be able to remove the key without reinstalling the shift lock cable. Ask me how I know.
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Old 02-25-2012, 12:58 AM   #25
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Also no one ever mentioned this but whatever you do, don't remove the shift lock cable going to your steering column (other end went to slush shifter). If you remove this cable, the next time you put your key in the ignition then try to remove it, you will not be able to remove the key without reinstalling the shift lock cable. Ask me how I know.
So the manual must have a different ignition switch?
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Old 02-25-2012, 01:24 AM   #26
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So the manual must have a different ignition switch?
Different steering column--removing the shift interlock cable leaves a gaping hole, so by deduction the manual one must be different. A later check with parts confirms this (manual: 32303450159, auto: 32303450160).

Another caveat, albeit negative side effect to this swap is, if your engine stalls for whatever reason and you need to restart it, the only way to engage the ignition is to turn the key to position 0--completely off, then turn the key through all the positions as you normally do to turn it back on, and remembering to depress the clutch (if one has NSS wired) and throw the shifter into neutral (optional of course).

There is a physical block incurred from the design of the column and interlock cable, since in an automatic, the only way you can start the engine is to shift into neutral or park. On a normal manual setup for any car, if the engine stalls, all one has to do is engage the clutch and turn the key to position 3, and this is rather almost effortless.

By having to cycle the key to the off position, then back on, all electrical components will essentially loose power. If one had factory xenons, those will cut off for a brief moment while one cycles the ignition. There's a slight possibility that the steering wheel could lock up too. I do not know about you, but if the car is in motion and the engine stalls, I would want to restart it rather fast, then having to struggle with pretty much turning off the car then back on.

The only way to remedy this is obviously to replace that part with the manual counterpart.

Edit x2:
@Nervous: FYI, don't trust that HF jack. I went through 2 of the HF low profile ones as they both failed.

Last edited by genuity; 02-25-2012 at 01:55 AM. Reason: forgot that key to ACC will not reset the ignition lock cylinder, but key must be cycled completely off
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Old 02-25-2012, 03:19 AM   #27
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Just to throw my oppinion out there.

Have you considered getting your DME and EWS coded to manual coding? I did this to my car so i didnt have to wire pins here and there and fool the DME. It will be alt easier for the next owner if you decided to sell the car.
Should be easier if car needs servicing as well.


RPM Motorsport does this and the price aint that bad.

Otherwise, nice thread! Impressed that you did all this with jack stands....
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Old 02-25-2012, 08:55 AM   #28
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Nervous knows how to do coding himself. He would still have to wire up the clutch switch for the car to start properly though (unless he just disables the clutch interlock altogether like Euro cars)
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Old 02-25-2012, 01:32 PM   #29
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Thanks, genuity for the info! I never thought about differences in steering column. Is there any chance it is possible to modify it rather than replace? And if replace - what to do with the key? Can i just transfer my keylock to the new column?
As to HF jack - I don't trust it that much, you may see I supported tranny with a jack stand. But so far so good (it is not hydraulic like the $300+ one you mentioned).
And yes, I'll code by myself.
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Old 02-25-2012, 01:33 PM   #30
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I so wish I could do this! Best of luck!
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Old 02-25-2012, 11:21 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Nervous View Post
Thanks, genuity for the info! I never thought about differences in steering column. Is there any chance it is possible to modify it rather than replace? And if replace - what to do with the key? Can i just transfer my keylock to the new column?
As to HF jack - I don't trust it that much, you may see I supported tranny with a jack stand. But so far so good (it is not hydraulic like the $300+ one you mentioned).
Conventional thinking is that if you can find a suitable rigid cylindrical object of certain length and diameter, and secure it into the column (in place of where the cable attaches), then this may bypass the mechanical safety feature of the shift interlock system. However, from a design perspective, this is most likely not how it works. There should be a camshaft inside the steering column. The camshaft has a cam with the cut out portion of its stroke from the 1st position (accessories) to the 2nd position (on) or 3rd position (start/ignition).

More on this below but note the exhibits. Read on to learn something new

[1]: Automatic steering column, note the interlock cable:


[2]: Interlock cable diagram:


[3]: Lock cylinder:


[4]: Closeup of steering column lock cylinder receptacle:


If I recall correctly, the interlock cable [2] is spring loaded (rounded ring of [2] likes to be in it's shell and cylindrical pin at the beginning of the cable, likes to protrude the cable's sheath. When you turn the key, the rectangular shaped piece at the end of the key lock cylinder [3] rotor, turns the receptacle in the steering column [4] there which turns the camshaft in the column where its stroke slides the pin pushing the cable outwards, extending the loop at the end of the cable. This then moves a control lever actuating the shift lock plate allowing you to move the gear shifter. The camshaft also has some sort of mechanism that "unlocks" the steering column allowing you to move it.

What was just described above is a mechanical lock safety feature of the overall shift interlock control system. This prevents the key from being removed while the engine is on. There is also an electronic lock safety feature of the system.

Recall that you have to depress the brake pedal in order to move the gear shifter. As you engage the brakes, a signal is sent to the DME which then send out a signal to another system that controls the shift lock solenoids. As these solenoids are energized, it releases the gear shifter.

The design of the manual (32303450159) steering column most likely excludes the camshaft lobes but is replaced by a shaft of some kind with a mechanism that "unlocks" the steering column allowing you to turn the wheel.

A picture below is of a manual steering column. Note that it does not have a gaping hole where you would typically insert the interlock cable. It still has the shape of ridges where you can mate the beginning of the interlock cable, but this just means that they have one cast mold made for both automatic and manual steering columns. The difference maybe the internals as well as that drilled gaping hole. A camshaft inside that key barrel would obviously cost more than some sort of solid shaft. By the way, your steering column for the E46 is made by ZF Lenksysteme GmbH. They also make the steering rack and power steering reservoir.

Steering column (32303450159) from any manual E46, E83 (X5), and E83N, including E46 M3, should fit according to parts cross referencing. Likewise, steering column (32303450160) from any automatic should fit any manual car, but why you would want to put one into a manual would be something I would question, since it would obviously require the interlock cable.

So in short, you'll have to replace the steering column to fix this "negative side effect" of the swap, that is if you want to be able to restart the engine from a stall out by just depressing the clutch and turning the key to position 3 (ignition/start). If you replace the steering column, all you would do is remove your key lock cylinder from the old automatic steering column and install it into the manual counterpart. With the key in position 2, a modified bobby pin should assist with the removal. By inserting the pin into a little hole on the lock cylinder, the pin will retract a detent on the lock cylinder itself and you should be able to pull out the cylinder with the key.

Cue applause The more you know...

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Old 02-26-2012, 12:56 AM   #32
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Subbed. I recently switched 325 man to 325 auto bc of rearendin, but a tranny swap was a promise i made meself. Gl on this one.
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Old 02-26-2012, 01:38 PM   #33
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Wow, genuity, this is very educational and useful! I'll definitely look into swapping steering column as well, since this looks like a safety issue to me to be able to restart the engine quickly! I can see a manual steering column on ebay for less than $60 shipped.

Some (minor tho) updates. I weighed the A/T! Its weight is 134 lbs without torque converter and fluid (well, I drained it, but obviously some fluid is still there):


The torque converter's weight is almost 29 lbs:


So, total weight of A/T with fluid is approx 134 + 29 + 10 (10 lbs for 5 qts of drained fluid) = 173 lbs.
I'll weigh the dual-mass flywheel, clutch and MT later, stay tuned!

I removed the auto flywheel:


Looks like it is a perfect time to replace the RMS:


And it is already bought:


I have a question, btw. Should I install the new RMS WITH the white cap still on and only then remove it? Surprisingly, Bentley and BMW TIS have no information about RMS at all! Like it never existed!

One more question. Under the flywheel I found a blue plastic pipe protruding from the engine block. I touched it and it just turned into dust:


What is it and should I replace it (? p/n?)

I also decided to replace the starter, preventatively. I thought it is an original one, with 150+kmiles:


I honestly don't understand how to remove the starter without removing the transmission... Especially, how to access wire nuts.
Old (left) and new (right, used 24Kmiles, made in 2006) starters:


But then, looking at the old starter, I found out that its production date is also 2006. Thus, it is not original, but still I believe it has about 100Kmiles on it. I decided to open the old starter:


There is some carbon dust:



For now, I just cleaned it up and assembled back. Maybe later I'll rebuild it with new brushes.

Last edited by Nervous; 02-26-2012 at 01:41 PM.
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Old 02-26-2012, 02:26 PM   #34
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Nervous, the blue thing is a removable plug, that is the hole for the TDC pin that is used for engine timing. It is mentioned here:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=904350
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Old 02-26-2012, 02:54 PM   #35
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Thanks, ddaniel1. Can't find a part number for it though. BTW, I found out that the Covering plate (part #7) is also different for manual (11141734019 vs 11142243305 for auto). Should I buy one?
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Old 02-26-2012, 03:10 PM   #36
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Thanks, I have been down this road before

Part number for blue thing is #13 in your diagram above. You can replace it if you like. It is the port to lock the flywheel. All the cap for now is to keep dust from getting in between the engine and tranny.

Thanks for weighing the auto transmission. My scale did not have the capacity. Manual 6 speed transmission weighs just under 100#.

RMS white cup is a new thing after Bentley was published. Check here for the how-to-do: http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/00/32/53

Whatever you do, make sure you check the seal's inner lip to make sure it is not kinked or has any imperfections. If there is any evidence of those or if the white cup is not holding the seal in when you bought it, exchange it. The white cup preserves the form of the seal and is also used as an installer tool. The installation of this is critical and you do not want to do the job twice.

Replace the starter while you are in there, as you do not want to do it again in the near future.

Covering plate #7 there, you can either replace it or use the existing one, it does not matter. If you use the automatic one, be sure you have the grommet.
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Old 02-26-2012, 03:12 PM   #37
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I see no part number for the plug either, odd. The cover plates look like an extra hole under the starter, possibly for the torque convertor bolts? a manual wouldn't need those if the clutch bolts are in a different place, just a guess. ECS has some very detailed pics. Maybe the dealer could help with the plug. Not too often realoem doesn't show something.
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Old 02-26-2012, 03:15 PM   #38
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Part number for your blue plastic plug, #13 is 11111714541.
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Old 02-26-2012, 03:21 PM   #39
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Weight difference seems to be about right. BMW quotes 3285 for a manual 330 and 3362 for an auto... So a manual should weigh 77 lbs less (though idk whether the quoted weight is with a 5 or 6 speed)
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Old 02-26-2012, 03:36 PM   #40
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Part number for your blue plastic plug, #13 is 11111714541.
Thanks Genuity, also for the rear main seal info, I may be in for that soon if my oil pan gasket didn't fix my drip.
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