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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 02-26-2012, 06:37 PM   #41
Nervous
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Quote:
Originally Posted by genuity View Post
Part number for your blue plastic plug, #13 is 11111714541.
Yep, this is it. However, on the ECS site it is white:
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Old 02-26-2012, 06:45 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by genuity View Post
RMS white cup is a new thing after Bentley was published. Check here for the how-to-do: http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/00/32/53
Thanks for the link, that's what I was looking for! As to the Bentley - they don't have any description of RMS replacement (neither old or new).

Quote:
Originally Posted by genuity View Post
Whatever you do, make sure you check the seal's inner lip to make sure it is not kinked or has any imperfections. If there is any evidence of those or if the white cup is not holding the seal in when you bought it, exchange it. The white cup preserves the form of the seal and is also used as an installer tool. The installation of this is critical and you do not want to do the job twice.
Got it!

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Replace the starter while you are in there, as you do not want to do it again in the near future.
Already done! Just have finished.

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Originally Posted by genuity View Post
Covering plate #7 there, you can either replace it or use the existing one, it does not matter. If you use the automatic one, be sure you have the grommet.
Got it, thanks a lot!
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Old 02-26-2012, 06:52 PM   #43
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Good stuff...I'll be doing this shortly; have the tranny, driveshaft, etc...just need some time!
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Old 02-26-2012, 06:57 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by genuity View Post
Covering plate #7 there, you can either replace it or use the existing one, it does not matter. If you use the automatic one, be sure you have the grommet.
Btw, interesting fact. The plug (you called it a 'grommet'), p/n 11141730453 is about two times more expensive than the manual steel plate (p/n 11141734019). My current plug is not reusable, so I'll order the plate instead.
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Old 02-26-2012, 07:27 PM   #45
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Old RMS is out.


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Old 03-04-2012, 08:47 PM   #46
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A small update.
Installed new RMS. Ordered some missing parts from http://www.bmwmercedesparts.com (including the cover plate that goes under the flywheel). In a meantime I decided to swap the steering column to manual one. I've bought one off ebay for $70. The swap is relatively simple. I already had steering wheel off the column. Removed the upper and lower steering column trims, clock spring. The steering column is bolted in by 4 bolts, but one bolt has sheared head (by design):


I spent an hour drilling this out. I'll replace it with a regular bolt.


Disconnected the lower column from the steering rack, disconnected all the electrical connectors and the column is off. Here is my car. Pedalless and steering-columnless:




I also spent a couple of hours trying to get the locking cylinder off the old column. I found a video on youtube how to do it on a different bmw and it was misleading: it says I need to turn the special tool (substituted by a paper clip) in the hole. But the truth is - you don't need to. Bentley has a very good description how to do this: you just need to turn the ignition key to 60 degrees from the OFF position and just insert the paper clip all the way down. Now pull the cylinder:


Keylock is already transferred to the manual column:


And new column is in its place:
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Old 03-13-2012, 09:39 PM   #47
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Any new progress? What is the difference in the 2 steering columns?

Awesome project so far, I hope to do this for next year maybe

and then maybe some boost.
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:12 PM   #48
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hey nervous...i have a question for you (it was a few years ago when I dropped my tranny)....

can I still remove the tranny without unbolting the torque converter from the flywheel?
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Old 03-14-2012, 12:04 AM   #49
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Not much of the progress yet: I am waiting for some parts to be delivered plus just don't have time - family, kids, you know... Planning to do wiring soon at least. I also found out that my rad is an original one (produced in 2000) so ordered a new manual rad too. Plus, I need a manual rad mounting plate. Didn't plan to replace the rad since I thought it was replaced by the previous owner, but...

flash, I doubt you can do this w/o unbolting tc from the flywheel. You can't tilt the engine enough to slide tranny's input shaft off the TC: the top of the tranny will hit the car body, I think. However, if you unbolt engine mounts and use engine support bar or lift then I think it might be possible, since you might be able to tilt it more (the firewall limits the tilt angle; if the engine off the mounts you can move it forward a bit and therefore tilt more). But I think it is easier to remove those 3 bolts off the flywheel (unless you are changing engine mounts as well).
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Old 03-14-2012, 02:21 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by AW330ciE46 View Post
Any new progress? What is the difference in the 2 steering columns?
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpos...2&postcount=31
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Old 03-14-2012, 02:49 PM   #51
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Quote:
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Why not just buy the manual lock housing?

BTW cutting a rear parking brake spring works better than a paperclip for the tumbler. The brake spring is alot stronger and almost a dead match for the OE tool
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Old 03-14-2012, 02:58 PM   #52
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Quote:
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Why not just buy the manual lock housing?
Because there is no such thing, at least according to realoem.com.

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BTW cutting a rear parking brake spring works better than a paperclip for the tumbler. The brake spring is alot stronger and almost a dead match for the OE tool
Thanks for the tip!
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Old 03-14-2012, 03:13 PM   #53
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Why not just buy the manual lock housing
Unlike the E36 which has a removable and accessible steering lock, the steering column for the E46 has been redesigned by ZF and embeds the steering lock within the cast, proving yet another large part to buy for those joining the the auto to manual club
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Old 03-14-2012, 03:21 PM   #54
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Unlike the E36 which has a removable and accessible steering lock, the steering column for the E46 has been redesigned by ZF and embeds the steering lock within the cast, proving yet another large part to buy for those joining the the auto to manual club
Should be able to just bypass the interlock.
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Old 03-14-2012, 03:26 PM   #55
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Should be able to just bypass the interlock.
Details? I don't have a spare column to experiment with and not quite up for the challenge to mess with my daily driver at this point maybe Nervous can tinker with his to solve this once and for all, since there seems to be no unofficial documentation on the interwebs.

EDIT: If there exists a bypass for the key to operate normally as it would on a manual column (allowing one to restart a stalled engine without having to turn key to position 0 first), but if the "bypass" means to damage by defeating the steering wheel lock mechanism as a whole then it would not be worth pursuing. One may as well do it properly by replacing the automatic steering column with the manual counterpart.

By defeating the steering lock as a whole, one would essentially be able to move the steering wheel with no key in the ignition, which is quite a safety hazard as well as security concern.

Last edited by genuity; 03-14-2012 at 07:16 PM. Reason: Defining what "bypass" should be defined as
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Old 03-14-2012, 07:04 PM   #56
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Haha well, in any case good luck with the swap. If you need any help with the electronic part, feel free to PM me
*note to OP: not a thread jack attempt here but,
this is the scary part of doing a swap for me if I ever get around to it.
How hard is it to convert wiring and/or software?
also, does it add alot to the expense?
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Old 03-14-2012, 08:32 PM   #57
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Wiring is pretty simple. All what is necessary to do is to connect a clutch module (4 wires) to:
a) two wires coming from the brake switch,
b) 1 wire to EWS
c) and another wire to ECU.
Plus, two wires from reverse light switch to a relay. Wiring does not add any expenses (well, besides wires and connectors).

As to coding, I'd recommend to read TitaniumCranium's topic, it has a lot of details: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...9#post14186189
Software for coding - see Programming section of www.bimmerforums.com

Last edited by Nervous; 03-14-2012 at 08:57 PM.
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Old 03-14-2012, 09:09 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeMyWhip View Post
*note to OP: not a thread jack attempt here but,
this is the scary part of doing a swap for me if I ever get around to it.
How hard is it to convert wiring and/or software?
also, does it add alot to the expense?
It is intimidating for most people. Nervous broke it down fairly simply though and that is pretty much all there is to it. Take a look in my swap thread (see signature). It guides you through in detail with pics. Should be pretty easy really.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nervous View Post
Wiring is pretty simple. All what is necessary to do is to connect a clutch module (4 wires) to:
a) two wires coming from the brake switch,
b) 1 wire to EWS
c) and another wire to ECU.
Plus, two wires from reverse light switch to a relay. Wiring does not add any expenses (well, besides wires and connectors).

As to coding, I'd recommend to read TitaniumCranium's topic, it has a lot of details: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...9#post14186189
Software for coding - see Programming section of www.bimmerforums.com
Thanks Nervous. Giving credit where credit is due though, I owe a debt of gratitude to genuity and TerraPhantm. They assisted, inspired, and were general sounding boards when things didn't seem to work as they should during the recoding/programming process.

On another note, excellent progress on your swap!

I'm really interested as to what Seth commented on regarding changing the lock housing and bypassing the interlock. BTW Seth - good to see you posting again!
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Last edited by TitaniumCranium; 03-14-2012 at 09:11 PM.
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Old 03-14-2012, 11:30 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeMyWhip View Post
*note to OP: not a thread jack attempt here but,
this is the scary part of doing a swap for me if I ever get around to it.
How hard is it to convert wiring and/or software?
also, does it add alot to the expense?
I don't have much experience with the wiring, but based on the WDS (and various posts) its not that bad. Going the other way around is way harder.

Coding is simple, but you need to have a good level of familiarity with the programs involved. If you can do it yourself its free. A shop would probably charge a decent bit even though it's not significantly tougher than retrofitting an alarm.
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Old 03-18-2012, 12:06 AM   #60
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An update.

A new radiator with a new manual mounting plate, ready to be installed in the car:


New plate vs old one:


BTW, I found a grommet that closes the hole from automatic shifter cable (p/n 07147140849):



Installed a pipe for clutch:


And, finally, my car is officially three pedals one! New manual gas pedal is installed along with brake & clutch pedals, master clutch cylinder is connected to high pressure pipe and low pressure hose:



And, finally, I made a wring harness for the clutch module. I decided not to splice the existing wires (I hate to do this and if I can I avoid I do so). So, I decided to make a plug-n-play harness. Here what you need for it:
1) Adapter lead, p/n 61116911072
2) 4 pol Universal socket housing, p/n 61138380696
3) 4 pol Universal pin terminal, p/n 61136925611
4) BUSHING CONTACT, p/n 61130006663 (you need six of them)
The pic of the parts:


Here is a diagram for the harness:


Basically, you carefully remove the purple and blue connectors off the "adapter lead" (dont just cut them, you'd need to reuse pin contacts) and just solder wires in correct order (according to the diagram above). And here is the result:


Thus, all what I need to do now is to connect the smaller green connector to the brake light sensor (BLS) and the larger green connector - to the BLS's white connector:


and connect the shorter wire to EWS 8th pin and the longer one to DME's 23rd pin. No splices.

I am going to connect all of this tomorrow and will test if car is going to start or not (if starter goes on or not, since I don't have tranny or flywheel installed yet). I just need to disable a fuel pump or injectors to avoid cylinders' flooding, which fuse should I remove for this?
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