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Old 02-05-2012, 05:35 AM   #1
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Apex, NC
Posts: 75
My Ride: '01 325i
2001 325i door airbag connector repair

I bought my 325i in October 2011. For the first week, no issues, but shortly thereafter, the SRS light came on. I took the car back to the dealer, and they checked codes, seeing high resistance in the left door, but the code would reset.

A week later, it came on again. I bought a code scanner (cheap Chinese version) and saw it did show high resistance in the door circuit. One weekend not long ago, I disconnected the battery and pulled the door panel. I unbolted the door airbag and turned it over, and did notice it was connected tightly. I did not know what to look for with regards to how the connector should look, and I did not realize that in fact the connector was compromised (it did not have the cover on it with the firing insulator). The selling dealer did indicate they had replaced the door lock actuator, and I'm thinking the mechanic yanked the connector cover off when he removed the airbag, not thinking it would cause problems down the road. I plan to send a note to the dealer/shop letting them know what I found...

Here's what it looked like:

With the help of this forum and BMW of South Atlanta, I identified the replacement wiring repair harness.


I ordered the following parts (pricing is shown with BMW CCA 10% discount applied):

61 12 9 118 135 Rep. Cable F airbag and control unit $24.14
61 13 8 353 746 (2 qty) cable connector $0.73/ea
61 13 1 379 833 (2 qty) SHRINKING HOSE. 6X45MM $1.30/ea

The repair was quite simple.
  • I offset cut the existing wire leading to the gas generator, in a position where the splice would be in a straight line, not in a kink (approx. 12 inches from the airbag itself).
  • I stripped the wires, taking care not to nick any conductors, which would increase resistance.
  • I crimped the connector first to the insulator to hold it in position (very gently, these are TINY connectors!), then to the conductor itself, first on the existing wires on the car.
  • I placed the heat shrink tube (clear, cool!) on the wire, pushing it back out of the way until needed.
  • I crimped the new section of repair wiring (orange-orange/yellow) to the connectors.
  • I slid the heat shrink into position and, using my butane powered soldering iron, shrank it to the repair section.
  • I then wrapped the whole section in good 3M electrical tape for good measure.

Everything looked good, so I put it all back together.
Hooked up the battery.
Connected my code scanner.
Scanned for the existing Table 10, code 5 code.
Reset it.
SRS light out for good!

Total repair cost: $36.20, including freight. Does not count the ~$30 I spent on the code reader, but that I can use again!

Last edited by fgump; 02-05-2012 at 05:58 AM.
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Old 02-09-2012, 04:15 PM   #2
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Apex, NC
Posts: 75
My Ride: '01 325i
Still so happy...no glaring red light on the dash any more! Now, time to tackle dodgy right front window regulator...then OFHG...cooling system overhaul...shifter bushing refresh...suspension refresh...vanos seals...and the list grows.
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Old 02-15-2012, 05:37 PM   #3
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Bronx NY
Posts: 33
My Ride: 2000 323ci 2009 135I
Hey, where did you get the code reader from?
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Old 02-15-2012, 07:19 PM   #4
Zero. Leaks.
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: NYC
Posts: 31,060
My Ride: '02 330i 6MT
I have to do that repair. I know that is exactly what my problem is but on the passenger side.

Btw, you didn't take any pics of how to connect the crimps ends?

Last edited by Solidjake; 02-15-2012 at 07:21 PM.
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Old 05-30-2012, 11:03 AM   #5
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: inside my bmw
Posts: 403
My Ride: e46
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