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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 04-14-2009, 12:27 PM   #1
g911turbo
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E-box fuse diagram/schematic? (NOT glovebox fuses) - Brake, DSC, Limp mode

Hey guys. Does anyone have a schematic, or even a listing of functions for the e-box fuses? There are 5 fuses in the engine bay where the relays, ECU, and Transmission controller reside under the cover with 4 torx bolts... They are bundled together in a plastic housing, but you can open (break) the top of this housing to access the 5 fuses individually.

One of those fuses is blown, and is causing my (brake) b.r.a.k.e, traction light, and LIMP mode to activate. I replaced the fuse, car started up with all lights off, but then they all turned on again after very soon after... Sure enough, checked the fuse again and it was blown yet again.

So something is shorting out and over-current through the fuse. I think it is either the DSC controller or the transmission controller (TCU or AGS i think it is sometimes called).

Any help here with a diagram??? I have the e36/z3 electrical troubleshooting manual (found it on the web free) but cannot find something similar for the e46...

Once again, this is NOT for the glove box fuses, I already have that diagram.

THANKS!
George
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Old 04-14-2009, 12:40 PM   #2
jbeurotech
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If you have angle Eyes tapped to the DME wire I bet thats the culprit I fix one a month for that aftermarket crap!!! Unplug you after market lights and your issue will go away. if you don't have aftermarket stuff post back and i will get you more info
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Old 04-14-2009, 12:50 PM   #3
g911turbo
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Hey jb,

Thanks for the reply. I do have angel eyes, with two trigger taps, one in the glove compartment area (for the fade in and out with unlock/lock) and one in the ECU box area.

Not sure if I am directly tapped to an ECU supply or not, but i've eliminated that as the reason.

I unpluged both taps (effectively turning off the angel eyes), removed both cables from the battery and shorted them together to remove system charge, and then replaced the fuse and started her up (still with the AE taps removed).

STILL blew a fuse.

Any additional help would be appreciated.
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Old 04-14-2009, 12:52 PM   #4
jbeurotech
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Which fuse is blowing? Number? BMWtis.com has all the schematics its like $30 for 24 hours Otherwise give me the fuse number I wil look at it. I still think those angle eyes cuase some damage somewhere
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Old 04-14-2009, 12:55 PM   #5
g911turbo
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For the record, on the e36 wiring diagram / troubleshooting PDF:

The ACS (now DCS) does not appear to be directly supplied through an e-box fuse. The transmission control module (TCU / AGS) however, DOES appear to have a power supply directly to it that routes through one of the e-box fuses.

Given the blown fuse (in the e-box), and the symptoms (limp, brake, and DSC/traction lights), I'm leaning toward a faulty tranny control module.

My reasoning is that the faulty tranny module would of course, cause limp mode, and at the same time would throw off the correct impedance on the CAN bus which would light the brake and dsc lights...

By the way, I also have a check engine code P0600 which is serial communication link error (CAN bus). No other codes related to tranny. Just some about secondary air system (pump bad).

NO matter how you slice it, all those lights are related to that fuse blowing!
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Old 04-14-2009, 01:03 PM   #6
g911turbo
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You'll probably kill me on this one, but I have TIS somewhere at home just have to load it on my computer (from CD). But NOT at work, where I am now. Also, it's raining here in cleveland so I'm a bit hesitant to open the hood at the moment given all the electronics under that cover... I will try to get more info if it lets up a bit.

Not sure what fuse number exactly, but on the harness there are 5 fuses and it is the 4th from the left (side closes to engine)...

it looks like this along the top and bottom of the harness...

Closest to engine * "Motorwerks or something like that, then" * closest to fender

closest to engine * 30A 30A 20A 30A 30A * closest to fender

It's the 4th, 30A fuse. Closer to the fender.
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Old 04-14-2009, 01:06 PM   #7
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You might be very right about the angel eyes... maybe they cause a slow death to the CPU modules in there? Is there another way to tap the trigger?

When it stops raining I willy try to post pictures of where I am tapping into, and what fuse I was talking about....

EDIT:

Here is how i tapped into the power:

http://www.speedstersource.com/FISH/INSTALL_CCFL.htm

Looks like an accessory wire, not something directly related to the CPU modules...

Last edited by g911turbo; 04-14-2009 at 01:13 PM.
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Old 04-14-2009, 02:08 PM   #8
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STOP TRYING TO USE E36 MANUALS!!!!! They don't have anything to do with your car. Second TIS(CD) will not have the wiring schematics, Wiring Schematics after E36 were all built into the GT1 BMW then came out with a DVD that had them. they stopped selling that DVD and made it available only through there website(officially)

So for 30 for 24 hours you can have all the fun with schematics that you would like!
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Old 04-14-2009, 02:10 PM   #9
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Did you take the scotch lock off that wire completely?? And then tape that wire back up to avoid damage(temporarily)
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Old 04-14-2009, 02:29 PM   #10
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Fair enough, no more e36 manuals!

And NO, I just removed the tap wire (male), and then I left the 3M T-tap (female) on the wire I was drawing power off of... seeing as to how it is now disconnected, I don't see how that would blow a fuse AGAIN. Something is overdrawing current through that fuse.
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Old 04-14-2009, 02:48 PM   #11
jbeurotech
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Whats the production date of your car and model? E46 with M54b?? and production date please
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Old 04-14-2009, 10:28 PM   #12
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give me the info i need i will get you scematics??????
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Old 04-15-2009, 09:43 AM   #13
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Seth,

Thanks for all your help man.

I ended up using this site for wire diagrams.

http://www.bmw-planet.com/diagrams/release/en/

Turns out the F4 fuse feeds the EGS as I suspected. It also feeds the O2 sensors. So my guess is that there is a short in the EGS module given that I am in limp-mode. To find the wire diagram, I chose my car then searched:

"fuse carrier", then chose the MS43 diagram and followed F4 to X6962

Then searched:

"Connector X6962" to find what I just said.

I am hoping I can just buy a used EGS on ebay. Not sure if that will work or if the dealer needs to recode it... Either way I would highly prefer not to pay 1000 bucks.

The ending of my vin is JU36374.

You Have Selected: 06/2001 E46 330Ci Coupe M54 USA Left hand drive N
Production Code: BN53

-George
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Old 04-15-2009, 09:51 AM   #14
jbeurotech
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g911turbo View Post
Seth,

Thanks for all your help man.

I ended up using this site for wire diagrams.

http://www.bmw-planet.com/diagrams/release/en/

Turns out the F4 fuse feeds the EGS as I suspected. It also feeds the O2 sensors. So my guess is that there is a short in the EGS module given that I am in limp-mode. To find the wire diagram, I chose my car then searched:

"fuse carrier", then chose the MS43 diagram and followed F4 to X6962

Then searched:

"Connector X6962" to find what I just said.

I am hoping I can just buy a used EGS on ebay. Not sure if that will work or if the dealer needs to recode it... Either way I would highly prefer not to pay 1000 bucks.

The ending of my vin is JU36374.

You Have Selected: 06/2001 E46 330Ci Coupe M54 USA Left hand drive N
Production Code: BN53

-George

I doutb its your EGS if you unhook you EGS does the fuse still blow? You cannot use a used inot as the coding and programing will be wrong and the VIn number is also programed to the unit
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Old 04-15-2009, 09:59 AM   #15
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If I disconnect the 3 harnesses from the EGS the car won't even crank, so hard to tell if I will blow a fuse. ????

So if I buy a used EGS that is the same BOSCH model number as the one I have (hardware compatible), the dealer will have to program it to work in my car (to make it software compatible).

This makes most sense, as the BOSCH unit I pulled out of my car has a second sticker with my VIN number on it!
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Old 04-15-2009, 10:08 AM   #16
jbeurotech
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g911turbo View Post
If I disconnect the 3 harnesses from the EGS the car won't even crank, so hard to tell if I will blow a fuse. ????

So if I buy a used EGS that is the same BOSCH model number as the one I have (hardware compatible), the dealer will have to program it to work in my car (to make it software compatible).

This makes most sense, as the BOSCH unit I pulled out of my car has a second sticker with my VIN number on it!
Your pullig the DME not the EGS you can start a car without the EGS plugged in
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Old 04-15-2009, 10:21 AM   #17
g911turbo
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no, the DME has the black connectors harnesses while the EGS has the BLUE harness. Part number GS8.60.4.

I pulled the blue unit and the car will not crank.
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Old 04-15-2009, 10:23 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g911turbo View Post
Seth,

I ended up using this site for wire diagrams.

http://www.bmw-planet.com/diagrams/release/en/

-George
Ah ah my site, cheers mate :-)
Hope you get sorted soon, I am very bad at electric stuffs sorry...
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Old 04-15-2009, 10:37 AM   #19
jbeurotech
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g911turbo View Post
no, the DME has the black connectors harnesses while the EGS has the BLUE harness. Part number GS8.60.4.

I pulled the blue unit and the car will not crank.

Ok what else is modified on you car??

Do you have continuity to ground on x70001 on pins 9 or 8?

See the attachment you have a short to ground somewhere while it might be in the control unit(not likely) it would do it key on not when started.

The fact it does not do it till its started makes me want to look at the heated 02 sensors or relay. Due to the fact that those come on only when the car starts!
Attached Files
File Type: pdf E46f4DME.pdf (76.6 KB, 313 views)
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Last edited by jbeurotech; 04-15-2009 at 10:40 AM.
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Old 04-15-2009, 11:19 AM   #20
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Well, i tested continuity between the 30A pins (8, 9) and the ground pins (4,5,6) on the 9 pin connector. There is a blip of continuity, and then it goes to an open as it should.

I pried open the metal case and I am looking at the pcb and ICs now. I might try to reflux everything (if only I had a schematic for the board).
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