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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning

Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

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Old 03-07-2012, 04:02 PM   #1
Njerseydevil
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Sputtering, just changed lower intake boot

Ok, I just replaced my lower intake boot this past Friday. I cleared the codes p0171 p0174 bank leans 1&2. Today my car sputters only when I turn it on then, i turn the switch and i have to hold back for like a second or two to turn on. If i turn right off and turn it back on it starts up perfect. when I drive around or I'm parked it doesn't sputter. But my idol sits a little under 1. My car sits at 106700miles. Could it be spark plugs, fuel filter maybe??
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Old 03-07-2012, 06:45 PM   #2
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Is everything original on the car? Such as spark plugs, fuel filter etc...

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Old 03-07-2012, 06:53 PM   #3
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Is everything original on the car? Such as spark plugs, fuel filter etc...

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I want to say yes because the dealer said that I'm over due on an inspection 2.
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Old 03-07-2012, 06:57 PM   #4
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I want to say yes because the dealer said that I'm over due on an inspection 2.
And that was last friday
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Old 03-07-2012, 07:41 PM   #5
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See if you have same results after inspection 2

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Old 03-07-2012, 08:50 PM   #6
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Is it possible you didn't set the lower intake boot fully seated everywhere? It has to connect without leaks to the throttle body, ICV, and the coupler ring that goes to the upper intake boot. If it wasn't fully seated in all 3 places, you could have a new vacuum leak. Then the upper intake boot has to be fully seated on the same coupler ring and the MAF, and the little F connector with its 2 small vacuum hoses has to be plugged into the upper intake boot.

Otherwise as mentioned could be plugs, fuel filter, fuel pump, dirty ICV, possibly dirty MAF.
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Old 03-07-2012, 08:59 PM   #7
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Is it possible you didn't set the lower intake boot fully seated everywhere? It has to connect without leaks to the throttle body, ICV, and the coupler ring that goes to the upper intake boot. If it wasn't fully seated in all 3 places, you could have a new vacuum leak. Then the upper intake boot has to be fully seated on the same coupler ring and the MAF, and the little F connector with its 2 small vacuum hoses has to be plugged into the upper intake boot.

Otherwise as mentioned could be plugs, fuel filter, fuel pump, dirty ICV, possibly dirty MAF.
I will check on that again just to make sure. I'm positive that I did secure everything. SES has not come back. If the boots are fine, I will go and start with the spark plugs and so on. I checked the MAF and it is very cLean.
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Old 03-07-2012, 08:59 PM   #8
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See if you have same results after inspection 2

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Ok, I will post up my results. I'm going to start with spark plug.
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Old 03-07-2012, 09:00 PM   #9
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Btw, BMW dealer told me inspection 2 will cost $825.
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Old 03-08-2012, 01:55 AM   #10
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Re-reading your original post, I don't think it's your spark plugs, though you should replace them at 100,000 miles (some people replace them every 60,000). If turning the key to position 2/ON and waiting a few seconds always lets you start up and run smoothly, I'm thinking it's a fuel pressure issue, which points to either fuel pump or fuel filter (which includes the Fuel Pressure Regulator).

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Originally Posted by Njerseydevil View Post
Today my car sputters only when I turn it on then, i turn the switch and i have to hold back for like a second or two to turn on. If i turn right off and turn it back on it starts up perfect. when I drive around or I'm parked it doesn't sputter. But my idol sits a little under 1.
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Old 03-08-2012, 04:45 AM   #11
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Sometimes if I give it second it won't sputter as soon as I turn it on. But I will be looking into the fuel pump/filter. Thks
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Old 03-08-2012, 11:23 AM   #12
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My theory is your fuel pressure is not maintained when fuel pump is off. I don't know fuel injection systems very well but my guess would be a) leaky/clogged injectors or b) failing fuel pressure regulator (inside the fuel filter). I think the recommended replacement interval for filter/FPR is 60,000 miles. If you suspect injectors, the cheap solution is run a few bottles of Techron or other injector cleaner through the gas and the expensive solution is send your injectors out for cleaning or replace them. If you think it's filter/FPR, that's about a $55 part and can be DIY if you have four jack stands and don't mind spilling a little gas. Letting the fuel pump run for a few seconds (Key in position 2) before starting could be a short-term solution.
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Old 03-08-2012, 12:55 PM   #13
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First, go check your work on the boot. If it's your first time to do it, you may not have lined everything up correctly. Also make sure that you didn't crack any of the hoses (rubber or brittle plastic) running to the boot.

After that, do a tuneup. Fuel filter, air filter, and spark plugs are super easy to change. Buy some MAF cleaner and clean your... MAF. Consider changing your CCV if it's never been done. This will be the hardest item to tackle, but very DIY.

Best of luck.
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Old 03-08-2012, 12:59 PM   #14
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You guys help alot thanks
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