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Old 03-18-2012, 11:08 PM   #81
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Old 03-19-2012, 12:52 AM   #82
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Hey Rob,

Maybe you should have read my ENTIRE post? I was referring to the photos (plural) that were contained in the link of 02PRUV's previous thread (the link I referenced). I saw the singular repair photo in post 15 which is exactly why I tracked down 02PRUV's original thread to find more photos.

Instead of trying to be condescending and unhelpful, maybe you should have contributed something useful in response to my inquiry. I asked for more photos and 02PRUV subsequently posted more photos of the repair that we can all benefit from, including you.

Thanks again Allan

Hey thanks for contributing,....but when you can't form a sentence that makes sense, well that's your problem.

Here's what you wrote before you went back & edited your post: "Can you please photos of this?" This poorly written sentence is why you were directed back to post #15, I'd do it again based on any other poorly written sentence or request.


Unedited version:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpos...6&postcount=75



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Old 03-19-2012, 07:05 AM   #83
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Hey Rob,

Maybe you should have read my ENTIRE post? I was referring to the photos (plural) that were contained in the link of 02PRUV's previous thread (the link I referenced). I saw the singular repair photo in post 15 which is exactly why I tracked down 02PRUV's original thread to find more photos.

Instead of trying to be condescending and unhelpful, maybe you should have contributed something useful in response to my inquiry. I asked for more photos and 02PRUV subsequently posted more photos of the repair that we can all benefit from, including you.

Thanks again Allan
No probs mate. Hope it can help some people out with fixing up rear ends.
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Old 03-19-2012, 09:43 AM   #84
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Old 03-19-2012, 10:34 AM   #85
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Here are some pics before painting to give you a better idea







Why did you cut before the tower ? To save weight ?
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Old 03-19-2012, 01:11 PM   #86
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Why did you cut before the tower ? To save weight ?
Looks like he's running the battery cable through there.
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Old 03-19-2012, 03:45 PM   #87
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Looks like he's running the battery cable through there.
^^^ This is correct. That's where the factory battery cable runs
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Old 05-15-2012, 05:54 PM   #88
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Old 05-17-2012, 08:17 PM   #89
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At least some good immediate repair ideas will come of this.

That's some ugly, scary damage.
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Old 05-17-2012, 08:59 PM   #90
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How would the bracing of the rear shock towers/subframe compare to the stiffness of the no fold down seat sedans?
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Old 06-20-2012, 09:35 AM   #91
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Hi im new here, and sorry if my writing isn't perfect! my m3 has started developing cracks, and I'm going for 02pruv's solution! (thank you 02pruv for nice pictures and info). The work is going to be done this weekend and i have bought steel, the hpf reinforcement kit and all new bushings for subframe, diff and rtabs (akg 75d).

From what i can understand, the subframe is bolted to a threaded block that sits between two layers of sheetmetal(?). To reedistribute the (downward) load from the subframe to the beam welded im the trunk, it looks like be has used long bolts. To accomplish this, do you drill from the underside through the bushing centre to the top, so it is aligned properly, thread from underside, put cylinders over the bolts and weld it to the beam before welding the beam itself?

Thank you so much for any help or thoughts. I have tried searching.
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Old 06-20-2012, 11:04 AM   #92
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Hi im new here, and sorry if my writing isn't perfect! my m3 has started developing cracks, and I'm going for 02pruv's solution! (thank you 02pruv for nice pictures and info). The work is going to be done this weekend and i have bought steel, the hpf reinforcement kit and all new bushings for subframe, diff and rtabs (akg 75d).

From what i can understand, the subframe is bolted to a threaded block that sits between two layers of sheetmetal(?). To reedistribute the (downward) load from the subframe to the beam welded im the trunk, it looks like be has used long bolts. To accomplish this, do you drill from the underside through the bushing centre to the top, so it is aligned properly, thread from underside, put cylinders over the bolts and weld it to the beam before welding the beam itself?

Thank you so much for any help or thoughts. I have tried searching.
Glad it helps you.

What you have written is correct it's a long high tensile bolt and we did drill from the underside of the car through the subframe mounts straight up to line up. The only thing that you might of missed is that it's not just two layers of sheet metal. You have the sheet metal on the underside of the car, the sheet metal on the boot/trunk floor and between that there is a roughly 150mm gap that has a honeycomb style sheet metal section as well. That's why we also cut the boot floor out just underneath where the brace is and the underside of the brace we installed is welded to the top of the honeycomb section and then the boot floor was also welded onto the honeycomb section as well.

Just look closer on this picture and you can see the boot floor is cut out under the brace and underneath is the honeycomb section. You can also make out where we welded the boot floor to the honeycomb section in this picture as well.



Then this picture shows the welding of the brace to the honeycomb section as well.

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Old 06-20-2012, 11:50 AM   #93
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Thanks for info! This helps me a lot!

So you first you cut out the top floor, weld the floor, and then the beam to what is a honneyomb structure? For me, it looks like the beam is lying on some sort of ordinary sheetmetal but i understand this is some sort of honneycomb? Or is the honneycomb you are talking about filling the 150 mm gap, and then you remove it so the beam can take its place?

After drilling, did you make threads all the way through from the underside? And do you remember aprox. Length and diameter of the bolts?

I can try posting som pictures when its done!

And is there anything else in particular i need to look out for?

Thank you again! You really don't understand hos much this helps!
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Old 06-20-2012, 01:29 PM   #94
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Thanks for info! This helps me a lot!

So you first you cut out the top floor, weld the floor, and then the beam to what is a honneyomb structure? For me, it looks like the beam is lying on some sort of ordinary sheetmetal but i understand this is some sort of honneycomb? Or is the honneycomb you are talking about filling the 150 mm gap, and then you remove it so the beam can take its place?

After drilling, did you make threads all the way through from the underside? And do you remember aprox. Length and diameter of the bolts?

I can try posting som pictures when its done!

And is there anything else in particular i need to look out for?

Thank you again! You really don't understand hos much this helps!
So you first you cut out the top floor, weld the floor, and then the beam to what is a honneyomb structure? This is correct.

For me, it looks like the beam is lying on some sort of ordinary sheetmetal but i understand this is some sort of honneycomb? Or is the honneycomb you are talking about filling the 150 mm gap, and then you remove it so the beam can take its place? It is ordinary sheet metal. It's just constructed into a honeycomb/box section design between the boot floor and the underside of the car filling the gap as you said. You don't remove it you just weld the brace to it and the boot floor to it.

After drilling, did you make threads all the way through from the underside? And do you remember aprox. Length and diameter of the bolts?
We dropped the bolts in from the boot side. If you look at the brace you can make out the bolt heads. So the subframe underneath gets the nyloc nuts. The reason it's better to do it this way is the bolt head holds on the side of the brace when you drop it in place so you can still drop out your subframe with one person under the car. You don't need a spanner and a person in the boot to remove it. Sorry I don't remember the bolt sizes in length but diameter we did the same as the factory bolt in the floor which by memory is 10 or 12mm. Just check that. Then you don't have to change/drill subframe bushes. It stays factory sizes.

Other than that everything should be good. Definately post up some pictures when you do it. The more info on here the better.

Hope the explanation is ok and I'm not confusing you at all. It's always a bit hard to get all the info across correctly over the internet.
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Old 06-20-2012, 01:42 PM   #95
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This might help as well.





Also have a look on page 4 of this thread. There is some close up photos to show a bit more detail.
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Old 06-20-2012, 01:51 PM   #96
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is there really honey comb type material in there? i thought one of the BMW fixes involved injecting structural foam into the void where you say there is honeycomb in I could be wrong on this but i would like to clarify
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Old 06-20-2012, 01:59 PM   #97
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is there really honey comb type material in there? i thought one of the BMW fixes involved injecting structural foam into the void where you say there is honeycomb in I could be wrong on this but i would like to clarify
No. When I say honeycomb i'm talking about the design of the box section of steel that is found in there. Lets just call it box section then ok. There is nothing to eat in my car
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Old 06-20-2012, 02:14 PM   #98
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lol ok now i get it
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Old 06-20-2012, 02:20 PM   #99
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I Get it! good picture! You say you drop the bolts through. That mens the entire load is distributed through the head of the bolt, and into the beam and through it to the points where it connects to the car.

Just thinking, but would it not be stronger if you make threads through the floorsection to distribute the load to an even greater area? Through the beam and the original mountingpoints for the subframe. Without threads all the way i guess assembly and removal is significantly easyer + im sure the beam is significantly stronger than the bolts... However this wil probably be a high hp car someday so i want this to be bulletproof!

Maybe I willy make a DIY if I'm pleased with the result
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Old 06-20-2012, 02:53 PM   #100
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I Get it! good picture! You say you drop the bolts through. That mens the entire load is distributed through the head of the bolt, and into the beam and through it to the points where it connects to the car.

Just thinking, but would it not be stronger if you make threads through the floorsection to distribute the load to an even greater area? Through the beam and the original mountingpoints for the subframe. Without threads all the way i guess assembly and removal is significantly easyer + im sure the beam is significantly stronger than the bolts... However this wil probably be a high hp car someday so i want this to be bulletproof!

Maybe I willy make a DIY if I'm pleased with the result
Yes all the load is through the beam and the bolt and on top of the chassis rails. That is the whole design and that is where you want to load. It is 100x stronger than standard. You get no advantage threading the length of the bolt. Everything is welded together. Nothing is going to move now and the beam and the bolt are manufactured to take a lot more load than this.

And considering my car is a built engine, turboed and I hang it off the launch control at 5000rpm with 18psi boost and side step the clutch I think I've tested the strength for what you want to do to your car
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