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Old 03-15-2012, 04:04 PM   #1
Gus330vrum
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O"reilly auto parts tool rental; fuel pressure test"PIC"

Hey, I don't know.. But I try advance auto/auto parts and 3rd o"Reilly auto parts and found both tools I was looking for diagnostic;

I need to know best approach :

How use both those tools..

Anyone done it before?

Search but no luck on a DIY thread:

iPhone pic; sorry
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Old 03-15-2012, 06:13 PM   #2
flashmeow
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I haven't use this particular tool but I used a similiar. on your fuel rail there is a shrader (spelling) valve. this valve looks like your biycle tire pressure valve. connect this valve to your pressure guage. set car to posistion #2 and your car should be 50 PSI.
if it isn't then you either have a bad fuel pump or a clogged fuel filter.

I did this 3 yrs ago so my steps might be a little off or I might left some minor details out.

I hope this helps. Good luck!
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Old 03-15-2012, 08:13 PM   #3
shanneba
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Something like this:

http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/06/04/54
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Old 03-16-2012, 09:37 AM   #4
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Thank you, shanneba & flashtwosix on the input .. i Went ahead and Rented both tools 150$ DEPOSIT requirement^

Compression Tester Tool - I was told to Take Spark plug OFF each cylinder, that is test one by one. Plug in the Spark plug look a like tool and have someone fire it up? ' WOULD IT BE THE CORRECT Steps ?

Shanneba, i pretty much got into the owner tool manual =] good help on the Link also!

Last edited by Gus330vrum; 03-16-2012 at 10:22 AM.
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Old 03-16-2012, 09:45 AM   #5
shanneba
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BMW TIS compression test instructions:

http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/01/31/03

Starting the engine would not be the correct way to perform a compression test.
http://www.2carpros.com/articles/how...ne-compression
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Old 03-16-2012, 09:55 AM   #6
Gus330vrum
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shanneba View Post
BMW TIS compression test instructions:

http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/01/31/03

Starting the engine would not be the correct way to perform a compression test.
http://www.2carpros.com/articles/how...ne-compression
1# LINK-> Why do i need battery charger or 2nd battery?


2#LINK QUOTE->Remove ignition coil connector or ignition system or fuel pump fuse to disable power to the ignition or fuel system

Coil will be removed obviously because i will have the tool plugged in like a SPARK PLUG and as for the FUEL PUMP FUSE RELAY, if i disconnect the FUEL PUMP POWER .. would it work the same way?

To my understanding the car suppose to crank and not start. ?

thank you.

Last edited by Gus330vrum; 03-16-2012 at 10:22 AM.
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Old 03-16-2012, 03:55 PM   #7
Gus330vrum
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UPDATE:

I used Gauge Compression tester , VIDEO



absolutely something wrong, right? suppose to shoot up to 120-150..

could cam sensor cause this?


Last edited by Gus330vrum; 03-21-2012 at 06:23 PM.
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Old 03-16-2012, 06:24 PM   #8
Gus330vrum
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Anyone?
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Old 03-16-2012, 06:46 PM   #9
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Lol my cousin did this on my car a while back with a needle if it shoots up like fountain than its ok if it's low than you pump is dead my pump was dead also as i though then to come find out it was just frozen like wtf, it's been fine for 5 years so meehhh I'm lucky I'm might have to do this tho so I'll learn from you
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Old 03-16-2012, 07:24 PM   #10
Gus330vrum
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russian172 View Post
Lol my cousin did this on my car a while back with a needle if it shoots up like fountain than its ok if it's low than you pump is dead my pump was dead also as i though then to come find out it was just frozen like wtf, it's been fine for 5 years so meehhh I'm lucky I'm might have to do this tho so I'll learn from you
What pump? Wdf... Don't get it!
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Old 03-16-2012, 09:52 PM   #11
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Sorry just ignore it I'm here to learn
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Old 03-17-2012, 02:05 PM   #12
Gus330vrum
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russian172 View Post
Sorry just ignore it I'm here to learn
here men :
read this- >
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob43 View Post
First pull the DME relay & fuel pump fuse.
Next, pull ALL spark plugs out, no plugs in motor when you do test. Yes,
motor should be warm, while one person cranks with the throttle wide open
(YES the throttle will open up, while you crank) the second person is manning the gauge. Crank engine 10 times per test, this means 10 needle swings or "spikes" on your gauge. While looking at gauge, its NOT the highest number you see, but the average number. So if your gauge is swinging between 180 & 200, your compression number is 190. Repeat for all cylinders. If you end up within 10% or less that's considered ok, 5% or less would be
very good. If you get numbers above 10%, that's a problem, depending on
how much of a difference there is, you might be looking at some sort of rebuild/or freshen-up.

Good Luck,
http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/sho...=719383&page=2

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Old 03-17-2012, 03:39 PM   #13
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Oooooooooo a compression test I though you were doing a fuel pump pressure test lol
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Old 03-17-2012, 03:57 PM   #14
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I've done compression tests. Looks like your compression on your vid is either pathetic, or you have a leak somewhere in your seal to the spark plug hole?

Disable your ignition and fuel pressure as previously instructed. Remove all your spark plugs.
Fasten the tester in the spark plug hole and turn your engine over until the needle stops climbing higher. Record that number and move onto the next cylinder.

Compare all the numbers against spec, and against each other to see what the variation is. If your numbers don't pass, move on to an oil test.
Squirt a few squirts of oil into the top of a piston and repeat the compression test just like before. Do this with each cylinder and record all results on paper.
This oil seals the piston rings temporarily and isolates the test to check the seal that the valves make.
If the test improves with the oil, it is your rings. If it doesn't improve, it is your valves.

Hint: you'd rather have it be your valves bad than your rings!

What happened to your car that made it run this way?

Post your test results for each cylinder for us to see.
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Old 03-17-2012, 04:01 PM   #15
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Could it also be a bad head gasket ?
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Old 03-17-2012, 04:09 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Russian172 View Post
Could it also be a bad head gasket ?
Why not?

Perform the whole series of testing first with the compression tester.

Have you checked your oil and coolant?
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Old 03-17-2012, 05:03 PM   #17
Gus330vrum
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russian172 View Post
Oooooooooo a compression test I though you were doing a fuel pump pressure test lol
kinda same location, lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by Russian172 View Post
Could it also be a bad head gasket ?
Uhumm.. I don't feel that bad of a engine... Never over heat with me! And car has had it's maintenance ..only applied Restorer oil sold at auto stores; Tough u never know!?! :/ test will be done 2morrow..

I fked up and left spark plugs all 5 on. Newb!

Last edited by Gus330vrum; 03-17-2012 at 05:06 PM.
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Old 03-17-2012, 05:54 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrlatexxx View Post
kinda same location, lol



Uhumm.. I don't feel that bad of a engine... Never over heat with me! And car has had it's maintenance ..only applied Restorer oil sold at auto stores; Tough u never know!?! :/ test will be done 2morrow..

I fked up and left spark plugs all 5 on. Newb!
What do you mean you left all 5 spark plugs on? And I highly doubt your compression is that low.
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Old 03-17-2012, 08:19 PM   #19
Gus330vrum
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Originally Posted by NJFF26 View Post
What do you mean you left all 5 spark plugs on? And I highly doubt your compression is that low.
when you test it, you suppose take all coils/spark plugs out. DISCONNECT IT.

I did not, thats where i failed and compression was so low.
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Old 03-17-2012, 09:17 PM   #20
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It really shouldn't change your readings at all. You can do it either way. Removing all the plugs will just help with your battery as it can turn over more freely and not put as much strain on your starter and battery.
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