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Old 03-25-2012, 04:07 PM   #1
Sinister7
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Hard stumbling with ses light on.

So I have a 1999 328i and last week my ses light came on. I checked it at my shop with a snap on scanner and pulled, what the scanner told me, we're dealer specific codes. P1250, p1188 and p1189. The scanner told me the last 2 were fuel trim lean. Anyways I cleared the codes and drove for awhile and the next day they came back. I thought nothing of it really until my car started to die. I would start and as long as I can keep the gas pedal down the car would stay running. Anyhow I took it to BMW for their scanner and the guy told me he dost want to diag it cause the cats were getting red. He gave me more codes to add to my list p0130 bank 1 o2 value undershot and p0150 o2 sensor value undershot. Then the guy asked me if I wanted to sell my BMW and cut my losses. I thought that was fishy. So I drove my car home and checked the cats. I didn't see them get red at all. I unplugged my maf and the engine started running a little better but still sounds like its missing. I don't kno
w if he's feeding me a load of bill or not. I'm a mechanic by trade but not familiar with BMW to well yet and don't have the correct scan tools yet. Any help Would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 03-25-2012, 04:25 PM   #2
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...a little bump for you. You already know what I think, we'll see if you get confirmation here or not.

GL...keep us in the loop!
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Old 03-25-2012, 06:25 PM   #3
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Idk what Dmax thinks. But I had p1188 and p1189 codes, with an occasional p1250 (idk if related). The car was idling poorly and would misfire.
I fixed them when replacing intake boots and MAF sensor. Intake boots where brittle and had a few minor tares. My MAF was probably fine, but when I unplugged it the car idled normal, someone told me was a sign of bad MAF, but idk.

Just read codes yourself. You probably already know can use scanner at Advanced or Autozone for free.
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Old 03-25-2012, 07:38 PM   #4
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OP PMd me and I encouraged him to write here. I don't want to bias anyone's thinking...but I did think intake leak too!

If it runs better with maf disconnected, then it's usually not the maf, just an air leak, although mafs do go bad...probably not nearly as often as they're replaced.
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Old 03-25-2012, 08:00 PM   #5
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Yea seems that even the smallest cracks in those intakes can trip codes.

I also fiddled around with the DISA seal/o-ring. I know that causes leaks as well, worth checking out haha
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Old 03-25-2012, 08:00 PM   #6
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Yea seems that even the smallest cracks in those intakes can trip codes.

I also fiddled around with the DISA seal/o-ring. I know that causes leaks as well, worth checking out haha
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Old 03-25-2012, 08:34 PM   #7
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Intake leak, I have the exact car, the exact codes, and the exact symptoms. I looked at my intake boot and there is a huge rip in the boot. I need to order another one, can anyone assist with a p/n and a website to order it at?
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Old 03-25-2012, 08:54 PM   #8
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Intake leak, I have the exact car, the exact codes, and the exact symptoms. I looked at my intake boot and there is a huge rip in the boot. I need to order another one, can anyone assist with a p/n and a website to order it at?
Countless number of sites can order them from. I just got cheap ones off ebay, figure if gonna fail anyway, no reason pay for official bmw ones.

part number is on them, but I'm sure can find part numbers at realoem.com
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Old 03-26-2012, 05:22 AM   #9
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Intake leak, I have the exact car, the exact codes, and the exact symptoms. I looked at my intake boot and there is a huge rip in the boot. I need to order another one, can anyone assist with a p/n and a website to order it at?
You've been here a year; how could you not have run into realoem.com yet? Enter your vin, bookmark the page, and you'll have access to PNs for every one of your car's parts.

But, since the boot is only a $12-15 part, the dealer is probably going to be the cheapest place for you to get it.

While there, of course you should pick low hanging fruit--clean icv and tb, replace tb gasket. You'd probably need to eventually anyway.

My advice, clean the hell out of the icv with carb cleaner. Use at least a whole can so you don't have to worry about it again for a long while.

My icv was hanging up and I had a horrible idle surge. After doing icv and tb cleaning over 2 years ago, I've been good...just saying.
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Old 03-26-2012, 06:36 PM   #10
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I have the exact same codes. I cleaned my MAF and the aftermarket intake. Im going to replace the intake boot as well. I also need to do my VANOS. But I don't think its related.

Ill let you guys know exactly which fix clears the CEL's... well aside from my bluetooth OBDII reader... I mean whichever one keeps the light from coming back.

Last edited by 2Low328CI; 03-26-2012 at 06:37 PM.
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Old 03-26-2012, 07:01 PM   #11
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Ok status update! Had. Buddy come over the other night with a better scanner. We watched the real time data and saw that the car is running so lean it's dumping at 27 on the short term fuel trim. So anyhow, him thinking like me we checked around the intake with throttle cleaner again. And blame I def have a vacuum leak somewhere under the intake manifold. We were thinking it was that small hose that runs from the top of the fuel rail to the oil separator. So I tore apart the half side of my engine to check the hose. It's not the damn hose anyone else have any other ideas where? The damn intake is hell trying to get off so it's a little hard to see in there. I think I'm just going to order every seal I can see and then clean the icv and throttle too. Just now it's hard to find the damn leak now that the right side of my engine is torn apart :/ p.s my intake
Boots look in great shape. Also, whoever else had this misfiring, did it damage your catalytic converters and run extremely lean? I did notice my cat get cherry red last night in the dark but still thankfully no cat efficiency codes!
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Old 03-26-2012, 07:22 PM   #12
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P1189 and P1189 are described as FUEL CONTROL MALFUNCTION, which is not the same as Fuel Lean.

P0150 is O2 SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION, causes include old sensor that does not work well anymore, and wires shorted to ground by melting or rubbing, and the ground wire being broken.
The O2 sensor produces a voltage based on oxygen content in the exhaust. The voltage varies between .1 and .9 Volts, .1 indicating lean and .9 indicating rich. The ECM constantly monitors this voltage while in closed loop to determine how much fuel to inject. If the ECM determines that the O2 sensor voltage was too low (less than .4 Volts) for too long (for more than 20 seconds (time varies with model)), this code is set. The code P0150 refers to Bank 2.
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Old 03-26-2012, 07:24 PM   #13
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Try this...
http://autorepair.about.com/gi/o.htm...trouble_codes/
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Old 03-26-2012, 07:26 PM   #14
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You've got the fuel pressure regulator down there, this 3/2 valve that I have no idea what it's for, the disa, the tb gasket can leak...haven't heard of the icv grommet leaking but I replaced mine anyway. The vac line coming from sap wraps around to, I think, this 3/2 valve.

And, of course, it could be some other part of ccv. There's a vac hose off the ccv on our year's car...the vent hose cracks pretty often too on ccv. While there, it's a good time to get those things if $ permits.

Also, I'd recommend you consider replace the o-rings on the hard pipes of the engine cooling system...on the air runner (6 o-rings); IAT sensor; disa (why not); there are also evap hoses around there somewhere too I believe, but don't think that connects to the intake at all, but I'm not sure.

Happy hunting!
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Old 03-26-2012, 08:15 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdstrickland View Post
P1189 and P1189 are described as FUEL CONTROL MALFUNCTION, which is not the same as Fuel Lean.

P0150 is O2 SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION, causes include old sensor that does not work well anymore, and wires shorted to ground by melting or rubbing, and the ground wire being broken.
The O2 sensor produces a voltage based on oxygen content in the exhaust. The voltage varies between .1 and .9 Volts, .1 indicating lean and .9 indicating rich. The ECM constantly monitors this voltage while in closed loop to determine how much fuel to inject. If the ECM determines that the O2 sensor voltage was too low (less than .4 Volts) for too long (for more than 20 seconds (time varies with model)), this code is set. The code P0150 refers to Bank 2.
If you haven't changed any of your o2 sensors i recommend changing them all, and look at your sparks plug. I've had some misfire problems recently as Dmax recalls, and all i had to do is change my sparks plug. Obviously you've got codes which i didn't but i have learned that one thing does not factor into all your troubles. So check sparks for the misfires and then for the codes, Sensors and maybe a new Coil pack. As old as you're ride is, i think you need to let us know what you've done so far to maintain the car?? If you DIY you'll figure most things as you go, which i have (sometimes the hard way )
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Old 03-26-2012, 08:44 PM   #16
Sinister7
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I don't have any misfire codes and I monitored for misfires on the scanner. Spark is the issue. Feels like a misfire but that's because it's running extremely lean. As for o2 sensors, I can see one failing and reading lean
But not both reading the exact same thing. I just know it has to be vacuum leak somewhere I just gotta find it now lol. Still though, all opinions are very welcomed. Glad to see so many are taking interest.
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:04 PM   #17
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I don't have any misfire codes and I monitored for misfires on the scanner. Spark is the issue. Feels like a misfire but that's because it's running extremely lean. As for o2 sensors, I can see one failing and reading lean
But not both reading the exact same thing. I just know it has to be vacuum leak somewhere I just gotta find it now lol. Still though, all opinions are very welcomed. Glad to see so many are taking interest.
Sparks dont throw codes, I would still take them out and check em out, if you got some cheap dirty old once in there doesn't Hurt to replace them with a NGK. You got on sensor worn out, I advice you as i been adviced to replace all of them, usually one goes bad then they al follow, so do them all at once! Doesn't hurt

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Old 03-27-2012, 02:12 PM   #18
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You've been here a year; how could you not have run into realoem.com yet? Enter your vin, bookmark the page, and you'll have access to PNs for every one of your car's parts.

But, since the boot is only a $12-15 part, the dealer is probably going to be the cheapest place for you to get it.

While there, of course you should pick low hanging fruit--clean icv and tb, replace tb gasket. You'd probably need to eventually anyway.

My advice, clean the hell out of the icv with carb cleaner. Use at least a whole can so you don't have to worry about it again for a long while.

My icv was hanging up and I had a horrible idle surge. After doing icv and tb cleaning over 2 years ago, I've been good...just saying.
Thanks for the tips! Going to go to the dealer this week and pick up a new boot and clean the ICV.
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You drive a BMW. That means you make $600,000 a year and date supermodels without pointy elbows or hairy arms. Need I say more?

2006 Honda Civic Si Coupe Nighthawk Black Pearl/Black
1983 BMW 733i 5MT Schwarz/Cardinal

Sold: 1999 328i sedan Alpine White/Sand
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Old 04-14-2012, 03:21 PM   #19
Sinister7
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Well guys just wanted to let everyone know I fixed the problem. Still not sure which of these it was because nothing looked visibly broken/torn. I'll give ya a list of what it was and it doesn't include an 8000 exhaust like the dealer said. I put a new CCv (oil seperator) kit, an oil dipstick o-ring, throttle gasket, disa valve gasket, and new intake manifold gasket in. All parts were 200 bucks and about a day to put em in. I also cleaned the throttle and icv while it was off!

Thanks to those for giving some advice! It was much appreciated!
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Old 04-14-2012, 03:45 PM   #20
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I guess you did the cold weather ccv, huh, and had the intake mani off anyway...they usually don't see to otherwise leak. I think mine will be coming off sometime this summer, though, to get to some cooling pipes and one hose I haven't done in the cooling system.

Looking forward to finding that hidden bolt!

Glad you're running. $200 much better than either $8000 or selling your car! Scumbags!
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