ZHP violent shaking/knocking when cold. PLEASE HELP!

It's doing it again. ugh. I've been driving it a while now with no codes/SES light/rough idle. It runs great, except when it's been sitting a while it still makes the noise when it's started. If I give it some gas it goes away until it returns to idle then the noise returns. the only way to make it disappear is to drive off which instantly. I've been doing this, but the knocking is really worrying me. Does this sound like some kind of a valve issue to any of you? I can't say for sure but I believe the VANOS has been done. Much much quieter than my old car and no odd power dips.

Take it to the dealer for diagnosis. For $200 you'll get instant diagnosis and be able to instantly attack the problem. Stop messing around. This is serious.

Originally Posted by Sweetness

Take it to the dealer for diagnosis. For $200 you'll get instant diagnosis and be able to instantly attack the problem. Stop messing around. This is serious.

This is honestly probably the best advice I've gotten, I'll do that asap. I thought it cost a lot more than that, if I would have known I probably would have done it already. Thanks for the reply, you all have been such a huge help to me.

Originally Posted by whyzee125

This is honestly probably the best advice I've gotten, I'll do that asap. I thought it cost a lot more than that, if I would have known I probably would have done it already. Thanks for the reply, you all have been such a huge help to me.

No problem. Just keep in mind that they are there to help you first, and to make a profit second. If not, no one would buy and there would be no profit in the first place. People like SolidJake and affiliated shun those who go to the dealer, but it really is more practical.

For example, I had a cooling leak develop in the winter, and I tried DIY'ing in 40 degree weather. Bad idea. I looked like a fool, and in front of my whole neighborhood. I needed to get the fitting off that required ju jitsu to get to. Dealer quoted $400, took me to work, picked me up, gave me some free coffee and was all done in 6 hours. Best 400 I've spent in a while.

Dealer should always be a last resort, but as a Kobe Bryant last resort, where they drain the fadeaway three to win every game.

Post back with your results. They will quote to fix it, and if reasonable, do it. Factor in every situation.

Originally Posted by whyzee125

It's doing it again. ugh. I've been driving it a while now with no codes/SES light/rough idle. It runs great, except when it's been sitting a while it still makes the noise when it's started. If I give it some gas it goes away until it returns to idle then the noise returns. the only way to make it disappear is to drive off which instantly. I've been doing this, but the knocking is really worrying me. Does this sound like some kind of a valve issue to any of you? I can't say for sure but I believe the VANOS has been done. Much much quieter than my old car and no odd power dips.

Sounds like lifter issues since it happens on first start. Was it worse after sitting for several days? Why don't you take a video? The previous link of somelse's video no longer there.

I am having similar issue with my 330i ZHP. Rough idle, cold starts, give it a little gas and it goes away....All the same. I am noticing that people with ZHP's are having this issue more then just regular 330's. I have no codes and the car drives fine other wise but i would like to nail this issue down before it gets worse. I am leaning towards the ICV as maybe the culprit as when the idle dips down around 600rpm or so the shaking and the rattling begin. If the idle stays at about 800-900 rpm where I think it should be the car idles smooth. Was there ever a resolution to this problem?

any engine will shake/vibrate/rattle at low rpms. you need to find out why the rpms are going low. you guys need to address fuel, vacuum, and throttle control systems

see sig, do jfoj and things related to above in my maintenance sig. get a flashlight, some gloves, a few parts, tb cleaner, vacuum line, etc.

how would one know if the icv is actually broken or not?

Originally Posted by tnhl1989

how would one know if the icv is actually broken or not?

Test the resistance

Same issue whenever the car sits for a few days without driving it it will shake and knock for 15-20 seconds and then smooth itself out.

outside temperature doesnt matter , so I am leaning away from a CCV valve issue.

Originally Posted by Broach><330

Test the resistance

How would this be done?

Hm similar issue here. I have a ZHP as well.

Just a few days ago, the car/transmission shook while I was getting situated in the car. I wasn't looking at the cluster, so I couldn't see if the RPMs dipped when it happened. However, the event was more of a violent shutter (like when you shiver really quick, but with a car, not a person...), not a rattle. I haven't had the issue since, though. SES light is on as well, but it says it is for Inspection 1. I'm taking it in tomorrow, so I'll mention the shaking and see what they say.

I'm guessing the shutter is directly from the drivetrain, but I don't think the drivetrain is the cause. I think it is more of an issue of the vacuum system, or the ICV, etc... (still learning E46 terms and common issues, so bear with me). If it was a problem originating from the drivetrain, I DO NOT think the car would perform well at speed. If it were a drivetrain problem, the issue would be apparent under most, if not all, speeds and conditions (starting out, using clutch, accelerating, etc.).

Check the motor mounts.

Originally Posted by Sweetness

Check the motor mounts.

no

Ok guys SES light came on this morning here are the codes. The car did have a rough idle but then smoothed out once the engine warmed up. I cleared the codes to see if they come back.

p0301 multiple cylinder misfire detected
p0300 cylinder 1 misfire detected
p0174 system to lean bank 2

Originally Posted by raptorman5174

Ok guys SES light came on this morning here are the codes. The car did have a rough idle but then smoothed out once the engine warmed up. I cleared the codes to see if they come back.

p0301 multiple cylinder misfire detected
p0300 cylinder 1 misfire detected
p0174 system to lean bank 2

I already said what needs to be done man. Fuel, air, vacuum systems must be addressed entirely. not only will you fix your problems, but you'll have a car that runs well up to spec!!

Originally Posted by E46Mango

I already said what needs to be done man. Fuel, air, vacuum systems must be addressed entirely. not only will you fix your problems, but you'll have a car that runs well up to spec!!

I'm not too familiar with how the vacuum system works just yet, but, as of this morning, I know that my car's SES light was the result of a vacuum code; one of my hoses is damaged/broken. It's a $100 fix, so we will see if that fixes the problem.

Originally Posted by EmDeeAr

I'm not too familiar with how the vacuum system works just yet, but, as of this morning, I know that my car's SES light was the result of a vacuum code; one of my hoses is damaged/broken. It's a $100 fix, so we will see if that fixes the problem.

Basically your car uses vacuum assist to aid certain functions of different systems or sub-systems. The car ingests air and meters it via the MAF readings and adjusts fuel trims accordingly. If it ingests air that the car hasn't accounted for, such as through a vacuum leak, the car will run poorly due to the extra air.

So any rubber hose/system/piece that has air in it is a potential for a vacuum leak. You must inspect all rubber hoses/plastic hoses with a flashlight at bare minimum. I'd suggest replacing it all!

I have to to do that very thing this weekend, its been mad cold here in Jersey and working on your car in 30 degrees and windy is not fun in the parking lot.

Update on the rough idle issue that I have been having. This past weekend a changed the DISA for a brand new OEM replacement. I have included a picture of my old unit and as you can see not only is the seal for the DISA no good someone had put a little epoxy on the door in an attempt to fix the old unit which was probably loose. My car runs so much better now, it actually feels faster. I cleared all the codes and non have come back and my rough idle seems to have been resolved. I will probably change my spark plugs next since the car has 89,000 miles and is probably still running the original factory plugs.