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Old 04-02-2012, 10:30 PM   #41
Russian172
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this is why i still have my poor mans LSD
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Old 04-02-2012, 11:53 PM   #42
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Alex for moderator!
No
..but that was funny.
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Old 04-03-2012, 12:30 AM   #43
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LSD > non LSD yes.

Jeep analogy - no.

Take a Jeep with 44" mudders and a Jeep with Pilot Sports and throw them in the mud. I should then put 44" mudders on my e46?

Take a Jeep with 4WD and a Jeep with 2WD and throw them in the mud. So, I should have 4WD for the track?
No, and no. Was just using that as an easy way to make a point that LSD is better.
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Old 04-03-2012, 01:32 AM   #44
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LSD fer sure!
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Old 04-03-2012, 01:38 AM   #45
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His Indy dosent know what hes doing if he said thats the reason why it whines, By tape i think hes reffering to a sort of clayish substance that goes between the steady bearing and the car to dampen noise
lol. people need to STOP typing and START reading. Do not put words in my mouth.

#1) I never said he's my indy. I don't have an indy. I do all work myself (except for this one time I was too busy and didn't feel like getting under a car on jackstands) The guy is just an acquaintance because I bought BMW parts from his friend. No mechanic has ever touched ANY of my cars otherwise except for alignments.

#2) Nobody told me it whines due to tape. I made that implication myself that the sound was resonating through the chassis.

#3) No, it's not a clayish substance. It's actually as I said it is: BUTYL TAPE. There's a BMW service bulletin which cites the reason for gear whine as the lack of butyl tape. The fix was to install or replace such tape. The tape in and of itself does not cause whining, but can exaggerate it.

In my case, since the driveshaft was not touched, the tape would not be a catalyst to the whine.

It's simply play in the bearings. Not a big deal, just annoying. (According to Dan@ Diff's online)

The reason I mentioned the dropping of the DS is because that would be the only way tape could be removed.

Please, people. Read carefully and don't put words in peoples mouths. I will catch you.
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Old 04-03-2012, 09:27 AM   #46
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You're whining because when you were in Indy, the butyl tape came off, and you got clay in the diff?
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Old 04-03-2012, 10:37 AM   #47
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With regards to the butyl tape (not the highly charged - LSD versus non-LSD subject) - If the driveline is dropped, usually the butyl tape will stick to both the center-bearing, and the chassis mounting well, leaving portions on both surfaces. Butyl tape in itself is probably stickier than your aunt mini's denture cream.

If you pull the center-bearing down during driveline work, when reinstalled, the butyl tape may NOT be evenly distributed between the center-bearing and the chassis mounting well. This may cause a slight offset allowing the center-bearing to make direct contact with the chassis, causing driveline noise to be transmitted through the car.
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Old 04-03-2012, 01:57 PM   #48
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No, and no. Was just using that as an easy way to make a point that LSD is better.
But then a locking diff would be even better still.

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Old 04-03-2012, 02:30 PM   #49
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also, are you sure your pinion bearing is going out? have you checked your fluid and or replaced recently?
No, I'm not sure. I stood under my car on the lift at the shop and the noise was obviously coming from the front part of the diff where I assumed the bearing would be (via screwdriver stethoscope). But I can't say for sure...

When I'm at ~2-3mph, I hear a low grinding sound, almost to the point where I can feel it. Sorta intuitively thought bearing like the mechanic did.

new price info, the guy at the shop said if I just did a straight differential swap then he'd charge $680. Warranty is 6 mo on the used diff.

I think I'm going to stay stock for now, so the new question is whether taking the back plate off the diff, changing the fluid, re-flattening the sealing surface, re-sealing the plate, axle seals re-done, pinion seals re-done is worth $305...
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Old 04-03-2012, 02:33 PM   #50
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My 3.38 (bought used from a forum member--forgot who lol) whines like a B***h at freeway speeds. Brand new fluid in it too and it had about 100k on it when I got it (same mileage as my car as coincidence) and now has 122k or around there. From the research I've done (including contacting Dan @ DiffsOnline.com, it seems that SOME BMW diffs whine, SOME don't. Anybody have a quiet 3.38 on their E46 330? I'm almost certain my butyl tape is in tact too. The indy I had do it (I don't have access to a lift and jackstands scare me) said he didn't drop the driveshaft which means the tape wasn't touched.. which means my diff truly whines.

Or I could put back my silent 2.93...
It wasn't always whining... it's crazy embarrassing! I think I'll stick to the 2.93 for now. If I upgrade later, I'll look at something 3+
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Old 04-03-2012, 02:36 PM   #51
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You got me excited with the "Go LSD"
LOL, I thought someone would say it
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Old 04-03-2012, 02:38 PM   #52
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Was hoping a post like this would be here.

OP, diff whine is a very common thing. Have you looked to see if you have any signs of leaks around the seal in back, to the drive axles or from the drive shaft. Very easy to check the level...and to drain and fill.

Please start there. I understand the guys like their lsds, but you don't need it at all...and you don't need another diff.

My crappy stock pos 2.93 diff has 230K miles on it, doesn't whine, and brings me to 39 in first, 69 in second. I can't wait to show a 330 what a 328 can do on the dragstrip...coming up end of May!

Change the fluid first. Then, consider other things too before changing the diff. I can't say I've heard of one diff failure here at all. Because of that, you might also want to search your regional forum for a well-recommended Indy. Just saying!
Ok, so I'm staring to hear leaking could be it. I'll have them do that first. However, when I was under the car, there was no signs of leaking. Clean except for road junk.

FYI, these guys are indy... I try not to go to the dealer.

Last edited by mrbcc; 04-03-2012 at 02:39 PM. Reason: forgot something
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Old 04-03-2012, 03:50 PM   #53
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No, I'm not sure. I stood under my car on the lift at the shop and the noise was obviously coming from the front part of the diff where I assumed the bearing would be (via screwdriver stethoscope). But I can't say for sure...
When I'm at ~2-3mph, I hear a low grinding sound, almost to the point where I can feel it. Sorta intuitively thought bearing like the mechanic did.


new price info, the guy at the shop said if I just did a straight differential swap then he'd charge $680. Warranty is 6 mo on the used diff.
I think I'm going to stay stock for now, so the new question is whether taking the back plate off the diff, changing the fluid, re-flattening the sealing surface, re-sealing the plate, axle seals re-done, pinion seals re-done is worth $305...
that does sound like the input bearing, which can and does go out.

so you guys had it up on the lift and never checked the fluid?
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Old 04-03-2012, 03:54 PM   #54
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that does sound like the input bearing, which can and does go out.

so you guys had it up on the lift and never checked the fluid?
Yeaaaah, I'm sorta learning as I go here. I will next time for sure.

Do you think the fluid change and seal repairs is worth the $300? Or just change the fluid perhaps?
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Old 04-03-2012, 04:10 PM   #55
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Yeaaaah, I'm sorta learning as I go here. I will next time for sure.

Do you think the fluid change and seal repairs is worth the $300? Or just change the fluid perhaps?
are you talking about the $300 the shop is asking extra to change the seals and fluid in the new donor diff? or to have done on your current diff? changing the fluid on your diff shouldn't be more than $50. output shaft seals are very easy to do when the diff is out..very. i think you posted something else before about boots, like the axle cv boots. that is easy to repack with grease when the diff is out too. for them to change the output seals and change the fluid on a diff that's already out should cost no more than $100. $200 with labor and that's even on a very high side. i would shop around to another bmw indy shop or find your own used diff, have the seals done by someone else. then have it installed. most of the time the seals are plenty good, it's just easy to do when it's out and that part of labor already paid for when doing a diff swap. if you wanted the cheapest way, buy used diff off the forum or online at a salvage yard, put new fluid like Redline in and just have it installed.
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Old 04-03-2012, 05:42 PM   #56
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i give up!!!!!!!!!

way too many people posting about something they don't fully understand

i wish i had Moderator options so i could just delete the nonesense
Your right i use to build 1000HP race car monsters i no nothing about LSD's at all
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Old 04-03-2012, 06:27 PM   #57
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Your right i use to build 1000HP race car monsters i no nothing about LSD's at all
Using the Metric system like you Hosers use, that's about the power output of a Smart Car.

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Old 04-03-2012, 06:29 PM   #58
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Your right i use to build 1000HP race car monsters i no nothing about LSD's at all
Ummm ok...

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Unless your putting down over 100 hp more than stock and a manual tranny you dont need an LSD even for the track < i track mine often and do just fine, You dont need to get one for wet road or snow either , I drove mine for nearly 3 years in the snow without problems
Did you even read what you wrote? It doesn't even make sense. You know what a LSD is right? Just because you don't want one doesn't mean they aren't beneficial to others.
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Old 04-03-2012, 08:23 PM   #59
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Using the Metric system like you Hosers use, that's about the power output of a Smart Car.

a 1000 horse power car here Higher above sea level taken down to the states tuned would make more than 1000 horse power down at sea level
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Old 04-03-2012, 08:31 PM   #60
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oh please, not another dyno discussion, please
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