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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 07-09-2012, 04:21 PM   #421
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If it's not on my list, it doesn't need to be ordered.
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Old 07-09-2012, 04:32 PM   #422
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Other than what comes with all the new parts, I think the only seal you need is the metal seal ring for the engine block drain plug.
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Old 07-09-2012, 04:43 PM   #423
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Is that on my list, Wolrab? if not... could you fetch the part number for me so I can add it? I thought I added that... good catch.
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Old 07-09-2012, 04:47 PM   #424
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Is that on my list, Wolrab? if not... could you fetch the part number for me so I can add it? I thought I added that... good catch.
To be honest, I didn't check first to see if it's on your list. It's 07 11 9 963 200.
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Old 07-11-2012, 10:01 AM   #425
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I added it. Thanks. (If it's on there twice, it's Wolrab's fault!) He owes you $0.25
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Old 07-11-2012, 10:46 AM   #426
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What???? Mango, you forgot something???? Well, what good are you anyway???? SHEESH!!!! Just kidding....thanks for all the great info!
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Old 07-11-2012, 10:56 AM   #427
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haha. at your service, my friend.
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Old 07-11-2012, 02:25 PM   #428
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wish when i first bought my car this thread was around...
owned the car for 2.5 yrs now... bought at 79k km's.
within the first year (approx 90k km's) i started having some of the leaking symptons, luckily no temp gauge raising
the shop i brought it too said these cars were common for the plastic dry rotting because of the engine heat so he fixed it but never put in detail what was all replaced
he did fix the issue and it's been fine since but now i have no clue which parts on the above list have been fixed
end result was $900 with labour of course
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Old 07-12-2012, 11:58 AM   #429
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Exellent information. I have one quick question. In April I did a overhaul of the system with ECS kit that had all hoses, thermostat, waterpump, ET, AT thermostat, WP Pulley, and belts.
I have a 00 323it with 171k. No hx from previous owners about maitnence

Now I have a coolant leak from the radiator. (Kicking myself for not replacing it then)

My question is : On top of the parts that are easy to break when removing the ET, are there any sensitive brackets on the radiator that I should purchase as a precaution?

Again thanks for your help
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Old 07-12-2012, 12:08 PM   #430
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Exellent information. I have one quick question. In April I did a overhaul of the system with ECS kit that had all hoses, thermostat, waterpump, ET, AT thermostat, WP Pulley, and belts.
I have a 00 323it with 171k. No hx from previous owners about maitnence

Now I have a coolant leak from the radiator. (Kicking myself for not replacing it then)

My question is : On top of the parts that are easy to break when removing the ET, are there any sensitive brackets on the radiator that I should purchase as a precaution?

Again thanks for your help
There's the expansion tank bracket as listed in my list but in my opinion it's not really prone to breaking. I think DMAX recommended removing the radiator w/ the expansion tank still attached. I haven't tried that but i suppose it's worth a try. Other than that seems you're good to go.
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Old 07-12-2012, 12:19 PM   #431
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Exellent Mango thank you. Oh and just a reminder for everyone of how bad the stealerships try to RAPE you, they want 450+ for a stock radiator!!!
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Old 07-12-2012, 09:25 PM   #432
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Exellent information. I have one quick question. In April I did a overhaul of the system with ECS kit that had all hoses, thermostat, waterpump, ET, AT thermostat, WP Pulley, and belts.
I have a 00 323it with 171k. No hx from previous owners about maitnence

Now I have a coolant leak from the radiator. (Kicking myself for not replacing it then)

My question is : On top of the parts that are easy to break when removing the ET, are there any sensitive brackets on the radiator that I should purchase as a precaution?

Again thanks for your help
Yes, should have replaced the rad. Cheap.
One important fact you've left out is the trans you have. With a manual no problem. With an auto, you'll have to think about the trans fluid lines and thermostat I've been told breaks easily when trying to disconnect. Best to have another on hand.
And do you have a viscous coupled fan or electric?

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Old 07-12-2012, 10:18 PM   #433
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I know about the transmission thermostat, but didnt think about the lines. I have an electric fan. (I think)

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Old 07-16-2012, 11:49 AM   #434
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Just finished my cooling overhaul (as well as replaced belts, idler pulley; didn't replace radiator or thermostat - thermostat was replaced by PO right before he sold me the car about 5k miles ago) about three days ago and since then, I've driven the car roughly 50-60 miles or so. Everything works well and the car heats up to operating temp in a snap. The temp gauge has probably hit 12 o'clock 4-5 times since I replaced everything (remember, I only finished this DIY 3 days ago) with no ill-effects or signs of overheating whatsoever. No leaking at all, either. Is it safe to assume that I have properly bled the cooling system & I am good to go? I've had my eye on the temp gauge each time just to make sure the needle doesn't make the slightest movement passed 12 o'clock. Just in need of some enlightenment, I suppose, as I have never done anything like this before.
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Old 07-16-2012, 11:58 AM   #435
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Just finished my cooling overhaul (as well as replaced belts, idler pulley; didn't replace radiator or thermostat - thermostat was replaced by PO right before he sold me the car about 5k miles ago) about three days ago and since then, I've driven the car roughly 50-60 miles or so. Everything works well and the car heats up to operating temp in a snap. The temp gauge has probably hit 12 o'clock 4-5 times since I replaced everything (remember, I only finished this DIY 3 days ago) with no ill-effects or signs of overheating whatsoever. No leaking at all, either. Is it safe to assume that I have properly bled the cooling system & I am good to go? I've had my eye on the temp gauge each time just to make sure the needle doesn't make the slightest movement passed 12 o'clock. Just in need of some enlightenment, I suppose, as I have never done anything like this before.
The best test besides actually monitoring your coolant temps (the gauge is buffered so is unreliable) is to let the car idle. That's the quickest way to get a car with a failed cooling system to overheat. If you can idle it without overheating, you're probably fine. (idle it after driving around and car fully up to temp--don't idle from cold or will take forever). Really though the car would overheat at any speed pretty quickly.

Let car completely cool and check coolant level.
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Old 07-16-2012, 12:04 PM   #436
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The best test besides actually monitoring your coolant temps (the gauge is buffered so is unreliable) is to let the car idle. That's the quickest way to get a car with a failed cooling system to overheat. If you can idle it without overheating, you're probably fine. (idle it after driving around and car fully up to temp--don't idle from cold or will take forever). Really though the car would overheat at any speed pretty quickly.

Let car completely cool and check coolant level.
Gotcha. The car has idled numerous times in those 50-60 miles (San Francisco Bay Area = lots & lots of stop and go...) and everytime I returned home and allowed the car to cool down, I checked coolant level and it was perfect.

Thank you for your help, good sir~
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Old 07-16-2012, 12:10 PM   #437
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Sounds like you're good to go =) NP
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Old 07-16-2012, 01:54 PM   #438
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I did all of the above on my 1999 two years ago. I now have an issue with the a/c that I can't figure out. When putting Gage on a/c to see if it needed freon because it is blowing hot it reads the same on the high and the low side. I am figuring something might be clogging lines etc or one of the new a/c parts have gone bad, but I am stumped as to what to check and how. I did the a/c replacement on my own without anyone's help and it has been running great till this week. My husband is not mechanically inclined at all and says get rid of the car, instead of fixing it. Help. I love my car it only has 70k on it and everything and anything that could fail has been replaced before it had a chance to do so, right down to the window regulators and seatbelt mechanisms. Last time I bought it to a service garage my rear head rests were stolen so I do things myself now. Any suggestions or thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Don't want to replace the whole system again when it could be a simple fix. Thanks in advance "Terribly Hot in NJ" and sweatin' that my hubby will sell my car.
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Old 07-16-2012, 02:05 PM   #439
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I did all of the above on my 1999 two years ago. I now have an issue with the a/c that I can't figure out. When putting Gage on a/c to see if it needed freon because it is blowing hot it reads the same on the high and the low side. I am figuring something might be clogging lines etc or one of the new a/c parts have gone bad, but I am stumped as to what to check and how. I did the a/c replacement on my own without anyone's help and it has been running great till this week. My husband is not mechanically inclined at all and says get rid of the car, instead of fixing it. Help. I love my car it only has 70k on it and everything and anything that could fail has been replaced before it had a chance to do so, right down to the window regulators and seatbelt mechanisms. Last time I bought it to a service garage my rear head rests were stolen so I do things myself now. Any suggestions or thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Don't want to replace the whole system again when it could be a simple fix. Thanks in advance "Terribly Hot in NJ" and sweatin' that my hubby will sell my car.
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Old 07-16-2012, 04:03 PM   #440
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