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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 04-13-2012, 10:19 PM   #101
Stinger9
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Problem is a crack anywhere is not strong enough to hold up when the system gets pressurized up to 15 psi. That is what the cap is rated for when new.
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Old 04-13-2012, 11:02 PM   #102
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Sweating copper pipe is a sweet art.
Seen many a plumber do sloppy work.
Yet another place where I do my own work because some professionals take no pride in their work.
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Old 04-14-2012, 12:46 AM   #103
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Stinger9, ET cap is rated 29psi , not 15. Our system runs on 2bar pressure. 2bar=29psi . The cap is stamped 200Kpa in the inside. 200 kPa = 29.0 psi

Ilovecars800490, please stop crying about how plastic is bad ,this and that. I can send you a box of tissues if you want . Plastics have revolutionized the automotive industry and made things possible that havent been possible before , they made mass production affordable and generally only carry benefits, so please stop talking bad about plastics.
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Old 04-14-2012, 12:59 AM   #104
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Originally Posted by Blocked Out View Post
Ilovecars800490, please stop crying about how plastic is bad ,this and that. I can send you a box of tissues if you want . Plastics have revolutionized the automotive industry and made things possible that havent been possible before , they made mass production affordable and generally only carry benefits, so please stop talking bad about plastics.
Not once did I say plastic is bad.
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Old 04-14-2012, 12:59 AM   #105
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Stinger9, ET cap is rated 29psi , not 15. Our system runs on 2bar pressure. 2bar=29psi . The cap is stamped 200Kpa in the inside. 200 kPa = 29.0 psi
Wow, even more vicious than I thought. That crack would stand no chance.
Wonder what the actual operating pressure is under normal operating conditions?
I see the test pressure for the leak down test is 1.5 bar.
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Old 04-14-2012, 06:20 PM   #106
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Great write up. Bookmarked for future

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Old 04-14-2012, 06:57 PM   #107
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Hello pebble beach concours!

If that's the #1 best piece of brass I can lay my hands on, #s 2-31 would be the pieces of brass that go into a 30 round M16 magazine.

Hoorah!
I'm now gonna tell you the next secret to amazing. After the brass bleeder, if you have a manual, without a fan on the water pump shaft, there is an Al anodized reverse thread cap that covers the rusty red threads of the water pump. Essential if you really care.

http://store.bimmerworld.com/water-p...-nut-p706.aspx

Last edited by Stinger9; 04-14-2012 at 06:58 PM.
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Old 04-15-2012, 01:38 PM   #108
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I love plastics buddy, but are you saying I've been bamboozled out of $6 from these SOBs at BavAuto? Dang it I just got this thing like 2 weeks ago! hah oh me. . .

Well, I never understood what the hype was about these brass screws. Its a nice piece sure, but its not like the original screw is bad or anything .
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Old 04-15-2012, 02:40 PM   #109
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I'm wondering if someone could fabricate a bleeder screw for me out of solid silver? Maybe incolnel?

...and that nut cover for the WP? Does it come in designer colors or would I have to paint it Fern Green? Will it affect my HPs?

/threadjack...sorry Mango...I'm bored!
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Old 04-15-2012, 08:12 PM   #110
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2006 330CI - No front auxiliary fan?

Hi, I have been out of the BMW scene for a while (since 2007) when I hit a deer with my 2001 330CI M/T but just yesterday bought a 2006 330CI ZHP with 6-speed manual trans. My wife has a 2005 330CIC auto trans and this morning I noticed that my car does not have the "pusher fan" on the front of the radiator like my wife's automatic car has.
I googled and couldnt find out if my car was ever equipped with both a pusher and a pull fan. Does anyone know the answer?

Thanks for any help
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Old 04-15-2012, 08:16 PM   #111
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Manual's should only have an electric puller fan in between the radiator and engine. No viscous fan mounted on the water pump like the automatics.
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Old 04-16-2012, 09:09 AM   #112
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Wanted to share some information for those of you looking to grab some parts to do the work yourself.

I placed a $300+ order with BMA last week on a bunch of parts i needed to do a cooling update on my 325xi. The are great people to deal with. Very communicative and friendly people.

I had a few issues with my order though and wanted to point this out for reference...

Quote:
A/C tensioner pulley
(hydraulic, SKF $15.93) Part# 11281748131
(mechanical, Dayco 89133 $21.94) Dayco 89133 - Amazon.com
I ordered two of the SKF pulleys for my 2003 325xi (AUTO). THESE DO NOT FIT. The center hole that the is used to bolt the pulley on is too small and does not accommodate the recessed bolt. Had to run to the local auto parts store for a Dayco. Need to return these.

I also went with the OEM Saleri Waterpump, which arrived damaged. The plastic impeller was cracked and there was no way i was putting that into the car. Since my OEM Waterpump had some play i needed to replace it. Went and grabbed a GMP (metal impeller) and put that in, although i wanted to go with composite. Little disappointed as i ended up paying more for this water pump than i wanted. Have to return this also. FYI make sure you check for this is you are getting the plastic impeller as it might be easy to overlook.

Overall i changed the following:
  • Coolant Expansion Tank
  • Coolant Expansion Tank Cap
  • Waterpump
  • Waterpump Pulley
  • Belts
  • Tensioner Pulley's
  • Idler Pulley

All went smooth and didn't take very long, aside from the running to the parts store. I will be doing my brothers in the near future and will for sure do a DIY article. I didn't have as much time as i would have liked so i was not able to document it.
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Old 04-16-2012, 10:23 AM   #113
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You did all that work and did not put on new hoses?

And did you use a metal replacement water pump pulley?

Why did you prefer a composite impeller in your wp? Everyone else avoids these like the plague.
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Old 04-16-2012, 10:31 AM   #114
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You did all that work and did not put on new hoses?

And did you use a metal replacement water pump pulley?

Why did you prefer a composite impeller in your wp? Everyone else avoids these like the plague.
Car only has 50K miles on it. Gave the hoses a good inspection and did not find any reason to change them. They are easy to replace in the future if needed.

Yes, got the metal waterpump pulley.

I have a couple good friends who work as BMW techs and they recommended the plastic impeller over the metal. I trust their judgment as they deal with these things on a daily basis. If it ever breaks i don't want metal bits floating around in the system.
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Old 04-16-2012, 10:34 AM   #115
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Gotcha re the hoses!

I've never ever heard of metal impeller failing.
Composite fails many times. But I'm not trying to get you to change because I think that hasn't happened with many new ones.
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Old 04-16-2012, 10:56 AM   #116
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Hardly glowing re BMA if they don't pack securely enough to avoid a broken water pump and don't check against your VIN for correct parts.

BMW went to hydraulic tensioner early on and does not supply the mechanical any longer. Have to get it from aftermarket if you want one. No one does.
Convert to the hydraulic one as no one has problems with this in the vast majority of cases.
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Old 04-16-2012, 10:58 AM   #117
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Here is the difference i was talking about. I don't know if this is the difference between hydraulic / mechanical? Anyway, as you can see the bolt seats into the pulley, but the hole in the new pulley (left) is too small and will not work.



Here is a shot of the cracked WP

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Old 04-16-2012, 11:09 AM   #118
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Hydraulic vs. mechanical is the mounting structure that the pulley is attached to and which supplies the pressure to tension the serpentine belt.

Got to get in there on your engine front to tell the difference unless you know what you are looking for.

Does this give you a clear idea of the difference?
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Last edited by Stinger9; 04-16-2012 at 11:27 AM.
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Old 04-16-2012, 09:04 PM   #119
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Hey guys, im back with a bad news...

Recently I purchases an after market radiator, aluminum alloy at that and I was hoping it would fit my car. Turn out it did fit, but require to purchase an addition slim performance fan! stock e46 assembly fan would not fit with the new 56MM radiator size, it would touch the engine, pulleys and etc... Unfortunately our stock radiator sizes 42MM I suppose??

Im such a dumb azz!! But luckly for me, atleast they accept return with full refund.

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Old 04-16-2012, 10:31 PM   #120
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Hey guys, im back with a bad news...

Recently I purchases an after market radiator, aluminum alloy at that and I was hoping it would fit my car. Turn out it did fit,

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Condolences for the bad fit, but I would have stayed away from anything other than oem for the rad.
Oem is good enough for 100k miles and cheap enough not to sweat. And cools totally fine.
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