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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 05-16-2013, 12:13 AM   #1201
Mango
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seattle330 View Post
Mango, how important is it to go OEM with all of these? I'm building up a set of orders from oembimmerparts and BMA parts, and I've got a few that I can't find an exact P/N match on when I search your list on page 1:

1. Water pump pulley bolts x4 $0.25 ea. Part# 07119904524: Are these also known by a different name? I can't find them
2. A/C tensioner pulley: On BMA I only see Meyle P/N 681 06011 500, is this just a non-OEM one?
3. A/C belt 11287512762: On BMA when I search it returns "serpentine belt" from Conintech P/N 676 06057 038, will this one work?

Thanks for the help!
OE/OEM. If not available, anything BMA puts in your hands will be fine especially for things like bolts. They get hardware straight from BMW anyway.
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:20 AM   #1202
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Originally Posted by Mango View Post
OE/OEM. If not available, anything BMA puts in your hands will be fine especially for things like bolts. They get hardware straight from BMW anyway.
Perfect, thanks for the quick response, I'll call them in the morning and ask them which bolts those are and then get cracking.
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Old 05-18-2013, 04:58 PM   #1203
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Going to do my cooling system overhaul

Been getting a temporary code for my thermostat, decided i'm going to just replace the whole cooling system while i'm in there as preventative maintenance.

What do you guys think about this kit?:
http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-...oem-e46coolkit


My car is a 2002 330ci, manual. Should I replace the radiator while i'm in there as well? Any advice appreciated.
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Old 05-18-2013, 05:22 PM   #1204
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What do you guys think about this kit?:
New parts are always good, but unfortunately we have found the off brand parts in this kit to not be the best choice available. There are places to get all BMW parts in a kit and yes it is much better to get parts that won't fail prematurely. Too much is at stake with our cooling systems.

EDIT: let me make sure to insert the term Chinese Crap in this post. Newbs don't get the gavity of the perils of making the mistake of going for the seductively low low prices. Many have gone down this path only to report back that they should have listened. Please, I hate to say 'I told you so'.

Last edited by Stinger9; 05-18-2013 at 05:27 PM.
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Old 05-22-2013, 05:47 PM   #1205
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My car overheated today, immediately shutoff the engine when I saw the gauge was just in the red zone. Torque obd showed 134C...not exactly sure what went wrong but I did notice that the auxiliary fan didn't not come on after shutting down, which usually does when I drive aggressively.

All cooling related parts were changed out less than two years ago with OEM parts and had no problems whatsoever. Still waiting for the car to cool down before i check it out...any ideas what could've went wrong?
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Old 05-22-2013, 05:49 PM   #1206
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Originally Posted by eneka View Post
My car overheated today, immediately shutoff the engine when I saw the gauge was just in the red zone. Torque obd showed 134C...not exactly sure what went wrong but I did notice that the auxiliary fan didn't not come on after shutting down, which usually does when I drive aggressively.

All cooling related parts were changed out less than two years ago with OEM parts and had no problems whatsoever. Still waiting for the car to cool down before i check it out...any ideas what could've went wrong?
How often do you check coolant levels? has your aux fan AND fan switch been replaced two years ago when you did your overhaul?

turn a/c on and see if fan goes on. if not, you have your culprit
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Old 05-22-2013, 11:33 PM   #1207
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How often do you check coolant levels? has your aux fan AND fan switch been replaced two years ago when you did your overhaul?

turn a/c on and see if fan goes on. if not, you have your culprit
I check it every two weeks, just a couple a days ago before bimmerfest too haha

Just checked it out and it seems like the aux fan is working..turned the a/c on and it started running, I spun it with my hands when it was off and was a bit squeaky...

while poking around the engine bay I also noticed that my engine fan was spinning kinda slow..i stuck my hand there and it stopped......i'm guessing the fan clutch it on its way out.

Let's hope that's the culprit..

Time for electric fan swap+coolant refresh!
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Old 05-22-2013, 11:57 PM   #1208
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I check it every two weeks, just a couple a days ago before bimmerfest too haha

Just checked it out and it seems like the aux fan is working..turned the a/c on and it started running, I spun it with my hands when it was off and was a bit squeaky...

while poking around the engine bay I also noticed that my engine fan was spinning kinda slow..i stuck my hand there and it stopped......i'm guessing the fan clutch it on its way out.

Let's hope that's the culprit..

Time for electric fan swap+coolant refresh!
yeah do a swap, especially if you were overheating at idle.

run the car at idle to operating temp while keeping an eye on the temp via obc. once it starts to go past 100c, turn on the a/c and see if the temps are affected at all. If so, you might have a clue
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Last edited by Mango; 05-22-2013 at 11:58 PM.
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Old 05-23-2013, 04:32 PM   #1209
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Finally did my overhaul today, thanks Mango for the help.

To anyone who goes with the Nissens radiator and has an AT as I do make sure you don't ignore that piece of paper in the box that says ATTENTION like my dumb ass did, I got everything back together and took it for a spin and when I got back noticed water leaking from the drain plug petcock. They install the petcock for the MT from the factory, you need to swap this; don't overlook this.

Other than that it went flawless, the ET popped right off with a wiggle, the lower hose was the hardest, I had to use a pry bar but it came off in short order.

As for bleeding, as Mango has preached and following BMW TIS word for word, their is no reason to start the car for bleeding. I poured the coolant in extremely slow and had zero air bubbles come out when the coolant finally reached the bleeder. I started the car and got in up to operating temperature and cracked the bleeder only to let the bubble or two that may have been in there from the water pump to escape and there was a couple bubbles. I drove home 30 miles, checked again and had bubble free fluid.

Side notes: inside the thermostat hole and water pump hole looked pristine, I was elated, the water pump after 105k was also in very good condition, good impeller and the bearings where still in very good shape nonetheless I am happy I replaced the parts, and there's nothing more satisfying than looking in on the beautiful blue coolant.
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Old 05-23-2013, 11:33 PM   #1210
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My factory water pump (with metal impeller) had been weeping and I didn't notice it until I did my refresh a few weeks ago. 105k miles on my factory pump. My pump wasn't leaking, but it had built up a nodule at the weep hole (felt like a calcium build up).
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Old 05-24-2013, 12:47 AM   #1211
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My factory water pump (with metal impeller) had been weeping and I didn't notice it until I did my refresh a few weeks ago. 105k miles on my factory pump. My pump wasn't leaking, but it had built up a nodule at the weep hole (felt like a calcium build up).
That's exactly what the weep hole is for!
Small amounts of coolant are supposed to be released and evap before it dribbles down on anything else.
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Old 05-24-2013, 06:13 AM   #1212
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Had already replaced thermostat and hoses and water pump. Bought a new expansion tank about a year later just in case. Two days after receiving the replacement tank the original one blew.

Thanks Mango
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Old 05-24-2013, 05:07 PM   #1213
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you're welcome, guys. 325xittt and wdc
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Old 06-01-2013, 06:58 PM   #1214
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Hey guys just received the entire laundry list of part to refresh the cooling system. What is the most fully comprehensive DIY out there to help guide the process? Thanks for the input in advance!
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Old 06-01-2013, 07:02 PM   #1215
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* E46 Cooling Guide (Information w/parts list/bleeding) *

I found this thread to be a very good guide. I think google leade a to couple other similar posts to help the project along. it was very easy to do. basic mechanical skills and common sense and I was done in less than a few hours.


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Old 06-01-2013, 10:49 PM   #1216
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Search youtube for specific cooling part replacements and watch a few of them. You'll be able to mentally piece together how to do the whole job.
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Old 06-01-2013, 11:41 PM   #1217
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Hey guys just received the entire laundry list of part to refresh the cooling system. What is the most fully comprehensive DIY out there to help guide the process? Thanks for the input in advance!
I found this link to be pretty good, once you open things up you'll see what needs doing.

I did mine today, thanks for the help Mango!
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Old 06-03-2013, 11:26 PM   #1218
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* E46 Cooling Guide (Information w/parts list/bleeding) *

I have a 2004 325i I'm having issues with my air conditioner. blows cold air on driver side and hot air passenger side. I had someone check the freon it was between 40-45 psi? and I also change the cabin filter? any other suggestions? I've called the shop. They'd told me hit (tap) heater core valve. It should start working?


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Old 06-04-2013, 12:06 AM   #1219
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I have a 2004 325i I'm having issues with my air conditioner. blows cold air on driver side and hot air passenger side.
Classic low freon condition.

But could be something more complicated such as compromised receiver/dryer or expansion valve. But hundreds have cured this with additional freon.
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Old 06-04-2013, 08:42 PM   #1220
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BMW E46 Radiators & Cooling System Overhaul Kits
We sell only OEM Behr, Original BMW, or approved aftermarket upgrade radiators for your BMW.
So let me get this straight. You post all about the good stuff you manufacture and allegedly sell, but have no active links to products or any info posted regarding same??
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