E46 BMW Social Directory E46 FAQ 3-Series Discussion Forums BMW Photo Gallery BMW 3-Series Technical Information E46 Fanatics - The Ultimate BMW Resource BMW Vendors General E46 Forum The Tire Rack's Tire Wheel Forum Forced Induction Forum The Off-Topic The E46 BMW Showroom For Sale, For Trade or Wanting to Buy

Welcome to the E46Fanatics forums. E46Fanatics is the premiere website for BMW 3 series owners around the world with interactive forums, a geographical enthusiast directory, photo galleries, and technical information for BMW enthusiasts.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.

Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning

Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 04-24-2017, 07:55 AM   #1
SeanH
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Decatur IL
Posts: 65
My Ride: 88 325, 95 M3, 325iT
Engine on stand, 155k, what would you do?

I found a ZHP engine to put into my wagon. I paid a decent chunk for it, considering I got the engine harness, DME, 6spd, driveshaft and all accessories with it. Anyway, since it's sitting on the floor and will go on to a stand soon, I wanted to get your guys opinions on where I should draw the line on my refresh.

Note: Before agreeing to buy the engine, I inspected it with a scope AND did a leakdown test. Leakdown showed only 2-3% loss on every cylinder. This surprised me, considering it has between 150-160k miles on it (cluster didn't work, and last known miles on carfax was in 2014. But, I figure leakdown doesn't lie, right?

My plans before dropping the engine in:
- Remove wiring harness and accessories. Hook battery up to starter and run compression test.
- Remove intake manifold, inspect valves, replace gaskets
- Inspect injectors - potentially replace
- Rebuild DISA
- Replace CCV (hoping the GAS solution is done soon!)
- Valve cover gasket
- Swap out my rebuilt vanos from my B25 to the B30
- Oil filter housing gasket
- oil pan gasket
- Oil pump nut safety wired
- Rear main seal
- Obvious stuff - vacuum lines, other gaskets (TB, etc)

Other preventative items - opinions?:
- Valve stem seals - I could remove the head to do this, or do them with it installed. I'm thinking a new HG wouldn't be a bad thing to do, given the mileage. Overkill? I wouldn't mind pulling the head, doing valve stems, getting it machined (trued up) and reseating the valves.
- Since I am taking the oil pan off, on a stand, I'm considering rod bearings - agreed?

Other Questions:
- Given the leakdown numbers, I'd assume (as long as my valve stem seals and CCV are good), it shouldn't use any oil. Yes/no?
- I'm basically thinking, if I do rod bearings and valve stem seals, with the rings sealing well, engine should be good for a long time - thoughts?


Basically, I want to put this engine in, and not touch it for 60-70k, except for the basics.
SeanH is offline   Reply With Quote
Ads by Google

Guests, get your FREE E46Fanatics.com membership to remove this ad.
Old 04-24-2017, 09:33 AM   #2
BMWM3186
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 53
My Ride: 1992 F150
I would leave the oil pump nut alone, some sources already say the Zhp has something else on it to prevent that issue. I wouldn't waste my time doing valve seals or rod bearings as the m54 doesn't have issues with those. if you do want to go that far I would just go all the way and install the old style oil control rings on the pistons to eliminate​ the oil burning issues some of these motors have. You might want to consider replacing the starter on it because it doesn't look fun to do while the engine is in. I would do the cooling system as well and replace any other plastic or rubber hoses you can find. If want to learn about rebuilding, 50skid on YouTube has videos on it. I

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

Last edited by BMWM3186; 04-26-2017 at 10:55 AM.
BMWM3186 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2017, 11:58 AM   #3
SeanH
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Decatur IL
Posts: 65
My Ride: 88 325, 95 M3, 325iT
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWM3186 View Post
I would leave the oil pump nut alone, some sources already say the Zhp has something else on it to prevent that issue. I wouldn't waste my time doing valve seals or rod bearings as the m54 doesn't have issues with those. if you do want to go that far I would just go all the way and install the old style oil control rings on the pistons to eliminate​ the oil burning issues some of these motors have. You might want to consider replacing the starter on it because it doesn't look fun to do while the engine is in. I would do the cooling system as well and replace any other plastic or rubber hoses you can find. If want to learn about rebuilding, 50skid on YouTube has videos on it. I

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
Hmmm... Well, the M54 suffers from, what I understand, the same issue as the S50/52. At high RPMs the oil pump nut can work loose. Seems like a small price to pay to ensure that doesn't happen.

I have also heard of valve stem seals wearing out and leaking (maybe not often, but they wear nonetheless), definitely beyond 150k... so, why would I not do that when I have the engine easily accessible?

Finally, if I have to do the oil pan gasket, why wouldn't I just replace worn rod bearings? Yea, they don't fail per say, but, again, small price and effort when the engine is sitting on a stand to do.

I already have a new cooling system and aleady intended on replacing any easily accessible wear item.


Like I said, I basically want this engine to be good for a long long time.

Last edited by SeanH; 04-26-2017 at 11:59 AM.
SeanH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2017, 12:03 PM   #4
BMWM3186
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 53
My Ride: 1992 F150
The only people that have suffered from the pump but issue that I've seen are the people dedicated tracking their cars. Even though it's the internet I've only found a handful of people that had the issue.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
BMWM3186 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2017, 10:58 AM   #5
WilloCO
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Colorado
Posts: 434
My Ride: '05 330xi 6 speed
You can use my mod list for ideas.
New hard coolant lines with the intake off.
M56 valve cover - aluminum, better seals, gets rid of the PCV mess.
M56 dip stick or cap off the old one.
Headers if you can.
I upgraded my oil pump shaft to use a safety wired bolt style. You need a set of calipers and a press to do the job.

I'd probably check the main bearings for wear with the pan off. Just pop a main cap and use plastigauge.
Compression and or leak down test. Pull the head if any of that is weak.
If you pull the head, valve job, polish the chambers if you're up for it.
Larger valves if you're up for it. I find that this depends on parts costs and of course machine shop costs.
If compression was low, consider rings at a minimum. Cleaning the pistons can be educational - I found burnt pistons in my rv/ford big block with only 66k on it.
Manual? Clutch while it's trivial.
Oil filter housing seal. (I'm swapping my housing for a s54 housing for oil cooling.)

My m54 is in the car, so I'm only doing spot cleaning. If I'd had it on a stand I would have degreased EVERYTHING.
EGR delete?
New motor mounts.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by YoitsTmac View Post
I bedded my pads when I switched from ceramic to my PDF-Z pads. They actually caught fire during bed in.
05 330xi 6 speed
RIP: 86 e30 w/E36 M3 suspension build
WilloCO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2017, 03:03 PM   #6
CarbonZHP
Because Race...Convertible?
 
CarbonZHP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: LA or OC
Posts: 2,428
My Ride: used to be an auto
I've also read the zhp has an oil pump nut fix. If it were me, Id dig more into the engine. New bearings. Hone the block.
__________________
Modification Thread
Original Car: Silver Grey on Grey, A/T (1 of 186)
As it sits: Silver Grey on Black, M/T (1 of 51)
Instagram: @CarbonZHP
CarbonZHP is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Censor is OFF





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:55 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
(c) 1999 - 2016 performanceIX Inc - privacy policy - terms of use