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Old 04-27-2012, 07:31 AM   #1
WG330i
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Water Pump replace w/o fan holder?

I am starting my cooling system upgrade this weekend but I don't have a fan clutch holder. I have seen a posting where someone did the job without this tool. If anyone can give details or a link that would be awesome. TIA
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Old 04-27-2012, 07:46 AM   #2
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Yea use a hammer with a 32mm wrench
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Old 04-27-2012, 07:46 AM   #3
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I've always heard you can smack a 32mm wrench with a hammer and it will loosen the nut on the fan clutch, (remember it is reverse threaded) but have never been able to get this to work for me. I'd recommend getting the tool particularly since it seems this is a preventative job and not an emergency
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Old 04-27-2012, 07:58 AM   #4
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I've always heard you can smack a 32mm wrench with a hammer and it will loosen the nut on the fan clutch, (remember it is reverse threaded)
Note this, please. Every time someone at my shop does one of these for the first time, they come crying to me because they can't get the fan off. And then i walk over and pop it off on the first attempt. And then threaten to beat them with the damned wrench.

But yes, this is the proper tool. Only difference is I use a 32mm open-end with a pipe over the box end instead of a hammer.
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Old 04-27-2012, 08:50 AM   #5
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Doing it this weekend as well. Only thing is I wont be returning the fan back on. Going electric only swap.
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Old 04-27-2012, 08:53 AM   #6
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Only difference is I use a 32mm open-end with a pipe over the box end instead of a hammer.
Everyone Should Know This!

Just go buy a length of pipe. Costs only few bucks and works like a charm.
Can be used to anything where you have room for an extension of pipe.
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Old 04-27-2012, 08:54 AM   #7
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Old 04-27-2012, 08:56 AM   #8
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Everyone Should Know This!

Just go buy a length of pipe. Costs only few bucks and works like a charm.
Can be used to anything where you have room for an extension of pipe.
I usually use the jack handle to one of my floor jacks. It separates into two; its about 20" and works great. I use it over my rachet for lug nuts too.
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Old 04-27-2012, 09:07 AM   #9
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Yep hammer and 32mm.. Remove the expansion tank first to prevent cracking it, as you have to hit that wrench pretty dam hard.
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Old 04-27-2012, 09:56 AM   #10
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no no no. people are just going at this the wrong way. stop. breathe. relax. no need to beat on anything. this is not a brute force job. be calculated and careful how you position your tools.

you'll need two things:

long screwdriver (heavier duty the better) and a 32mm sears wrench (sears seems to be the only place that sells/offers this)

position 32mm wrench. position screw driver blade in between two of the water pump nuts.

now just hold the nuts as you push the fan nut the other way (clockwise)

just push. no bang, no beat. if stubborn you can soak nut in penetrating oil prior.

banging on things is just going to cause problems especially if not careful.

I'll be doing this this weekend on my friends M3. maybe i'll make a video
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Old 04-27-2012, 10:10 AM   #11
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I am starting my cooling system upgrade this weekend but I don't have a fan clutch holder. I have seen a posting where someone did the job without this tool. If anyone can give details or a link that would be awesome. TIA
I used a 32mm wrench and big rubber mallet. (reverse threaded so hit the wrench on the left side, forcing it to move in a clockwise motion.) It came loose after a few whacks, with the belt tension being able to hold the pully in place. Just be VERY careful that you are not smacking the wrench into anything that will break, like knicking the plastic quick connect on the radiator hose or breaking something on the vanos. It's a tight space...I suggest removing the upper radiator hose first...I ended up cracking mine using the above method.
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Old 04-27-2012, 10:34 AM   #12
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no no no. people are just going at this the wrong way. stop. breathe. relax. no need to beat on anything. this is not a brute force job. be calculated and careful how you position your tools.


Thank you.
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Old 04-27-2012, 10:54 AM   #13
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Careful with the hammer sir, going whack with hammer on the 32mm can be harmful.

Coming from experience:
First time,I broke the water pump pulley.
Second time, cleanly chopped the upper hose.
Both the times a lot of cursing but the fan didn't budge, FML.

Lesson: Get the proper tool, really easy.
Clamp on the pulley bolts.
32mm on the nut, reverse threaded and just a gentle push and no cursing.

some shots of WD40 or PBBlaster before you get into it will lessen your effort.

But please DO NOT HAMMER.
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Old 04-27-2012, 11:03 AM   #14
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Its decided... Leverage over impact.
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Old 04-27-2012, 11:08 AM   #15
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Yep hammer and 32mm.. Remove the expansion tank first to prevent cracking it, as you have to hit that wrench pretty dam hard.
+1. There was a thread a long time ago about a guy using the hammer method and the wrench slipped off after he hit it, hit the top hose, and snapped off the neck of the expansion tank
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Old 04-27-2012, 11:38 AM   #16
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no no no. people are just going at this the wrong way. stop. breathe. relax. no need to beat on anything. this is not a brute force job. be calculated and careful how you position your tools.

you'll need two things:

long screwdriver (heavier duty the better) and a 32mm sears wrench (sears seems to be the only place that sells/offers this)

position 32mm wrench. position screw driver blade in between two of the water pump nuts.

now just hold the nuts as you push the fan nut the other way (clockwise)

just push. no bang, no beat. if stubborn you can soak nut in penetrating oil prior.

banging on things is just going to cause problems especially if not careful.

I'll be doing this this weekend on my friends M3. maybe i'll make a video
agreed 100% on this. no hammering when I removed my fan nut. now, i had the holder and wrench, but i just had to push with some force. it doesn't have to be put on there with 150nm or anything, so just be persistent with it and it'll break. I'm guessing if you do have to take a hammer to it, someone put it on there and torqued that **** down. you don't have to make it that tight when you put it back on, reverse threading means it'll stay tight. and maybe even slightly tighten itself over time.
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Old 04-27-2012, 11:38 AM   #17
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Thanks guys. I am replacing the exp tank but

I am going to try the scrwdriver tactic first. I bought all the repalcement parts but I don't need to aid in tearing anything up. Wish I had the holder tool but no one has been able to tell me what size it is so I can get one locally. A model number would be awesome so I could pick one up at the local napa. TIA
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Old 04-27-2012, 11:59 AM   #18
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I used a screw driver and a thin 32 wrench on my old BMWs and everytime it worked flawlessly . Just make sure you put WD40 for 10 min
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Old 04-27-2012, 12:26 PM   #19
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I used the Sears 32 mm and a hammer. Put a bunched up towel down over the radiator pipes, but it was not needed. One whack and the nut came loose. Belt tension kept it from hitting anything. I will try Mango's screwdriver suggestion next time. I don't like using brute force, but I had to get the belts changed. Would have been nice to see a video of wrench/screwdriver beforehand.
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Old 04-27-2012, 05:44 PM   #20
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I don't use a pulley holder, so I have a few different methods, all with a 32mm fan wrench I picked up from Pelican Parts.
-Usually a sharp tap with a sledge knocks the fan clutch nut loose.
-If that doesn't work, a long screwdriver can be used in place of a pulley holder. It's not always easy.
-Finally, for really stubborn rusted ones, make a strap wrench using an old belt and locking pliers. WD-40 helps for removal and installation when the engine is warm.
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