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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 05-01-2012, 03:59 PM   #21
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highly noted and will take the advice. Mango, opinion on this 'water wetter' additive i've read about on the board?
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Old 05-01-2012, 04:04 PM   #22
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highly noted and will take the advice. Mango, opinion on this 'water wetter' additive i've read about on the board?
I'm not Mango, but I hope it's okay if I ignore the fact you only want his opinion!

No need for it. We do fine from Death Valley to Northern Canada with what BMW intended for us. It's a bmw after all!

When Fanatics try to make their BMW better than a BMW, odds are at least 50% they'll make it worse...and sometimes much worse.
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Old 05-01-2012, 04:04 PM   #23
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Just saw oembimmerparts is out of san antinio!

hello fast shipping! 4 hr drive

That's how I feel dmax. People seafoaming our poor cars... what about all of your seals and gasgets? The mutany!!!

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Old 05-01-2012, 04:15 PM   #24
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DMAX is right. No need for extra doodads and potions. Genuine BMW coolant and distilled water all you need =)
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Old 05-01-2012, 04:30 PM   #25
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Engine block drain plug crush washer 07 11 9 963 200. It's a 14X18.
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Old 05-01-2012, 04:32 PM   #26
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wolrab thanks button to you!

I almost lazy-excused the draining from block :O
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Old 05-02-2012, 01:59 AM   #27
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Okay... lol wifey had et leak everywhere from the top half, pulled off, nothing more. Checked temp sensor through cluster hack, works. Hoses need replacing soon. Fan is bad??
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Old 05-02-2012, 03:57 AM   #28
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If you had an ET leak, that could be it. If still overheating, read up on bleeding more. Usually that'd be it.

Could be fan, I suppose, which lead to ET cracking, but ET could've cracked just from age and perhaps overfilling...which you want to be very careful not to do. Fill to between min and max. Maybe you should drive the car for a bit to monitor things closely?
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Old 05-02-2012, 08:00 AM   #29
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I have yet to see or hear the fan on when the car wants to get hot. Is there anything besides the temp sensor in the lower hose that could cause the fan not to come on?

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Old 05-02-2012, 09:02 AM   #30
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If I have to order a new fan, can anyone point me in the right direction? Is ebay worth it? Should I stick to new oem fan? Thats what I want to do... its been hard to find one under $200 though.
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Old 05-02-2012, 09:13 AM   #31
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Also, I tested the temp sensor last night, just to see if it was monitoring, which it seemed to be doing. I didn't let the car heat up to mid mark; the needle was rising along with the temp on the screen. I just read somewhere to test it after it makes it to the center mark, watch to see if the temp goes up w the needle. Is this needed if the sensor can read when it is warming up? Maybe it only can read so high? Thoughts?
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Old 05-02-2012, 11:31 AM   #32
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I feel pretty ignorant, but should I have checked the fan fuse first?... I still haven't, and the wife has the bimmer... : ( It's either the fan fuse or the fan relay that went bad I am assuming, causing the ET to leak from the upper half, where it looks like a large protruding lip around the tank.
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Old 05-02-2012, 04:21 PM   #33
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Updates- Please see and advise

So I went on my lunch break and checked the car out at my wife's work. The fuse isn't blown. Doesn't even look bad at all.

Now for the fun information. The fan looks like it has been replaced before- it has the metal box on the back next to the fan motor housing.

The fan was turning about a minute after cranking the car... it cut on. The noise under the hood grew. Then subsided as it seemed the fan slowed down some. The temp gauge was just above the blue.. just starting to heat up.

Last night the ET was empty after the wife had the car heat up in traffic. Today(after i put some distilled in at 2am), sitting at a perfect level after our commute and the engine cooled down. The ET does leak though. I know for a fact. Since this is a problem, would this allow air to get into the system? It seems true. Meaning, replace the ET along with cap, flush coolant with distilled, then fill w BIMMER coolant and distilled. Bleed the air over and over, then see how the system runs?

Any other advice? Besides a coolant overhaul on everything..

Recap-

No blown fuse

Fan did turn on for test after cranking the car, fan also seemed to vary speed. Fan seems after market due to the metal casing over the relay on the fan housing.

ET leaks around top lip, all around.

Temp sensor in bottom hose seems functional- aka cluster test revealed that the temp was indeed read and rising.

When trying to bleed the system the other day, it was drinking-hopefully showing that the water pump isn't bad

T-stat should be functioning because car is over heating, not under heating.

Hoses show signs of wear, I do want to replace them asap

I wish there was a fanatic in the central texas area.... even Austin or Dallas. I would love to have a fellow member take a first hand look.
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Old 05-02-2012, 04:39 PM   #34
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Check ET for leak carefully. Clean up residue, top off (to between min and max) get it up to op temp and see, for sure, where it's leaking from.

ET cracks in corners or on horizontal seam.

ET cap can leak, and bleeder screw can get cracked.

The rest of what you said sounds right. GL!
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Old 05-02-2012, 04:51 PM   #35
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I see what you're saying... since it was dry when I checked it last night there very well could be another leak somewhere in a connection.

Do you see the lip where it looks like the bottom is popped into the top? I first hand observed it leaking from there last night after I filled her up and cranked the car to do a cluster check for the temp sensor.

Since this area of the ET is comprimised, shouldn't I just replace it instead of searching for another faulty leak in the tank? Or can this tank be used, since it seems I over filled it, and it released the extra out of the lip....

also, can anyone chime in as to wether generic coolant would cause overheating in itself? Is BMW coolant specially designed to cool OUR cars better? I would assume, I would like some reiteration though.

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Old 05-02-2012, 05:10 PM   #36
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I'm leaning toward this deal >>> http://www.amazon.com/2001-2005-Cool...5996284&sr=1-3

ET w Cap and Fluid level sensor for $65 total.
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Old 05-02-2012, 05:52 PM   #37
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Check bmaparts.com first...not sure that's an OE ET and it should be.

No, the tank is gone...doesn't matter if you overfilled it or not if it's leaking...though that can cause an ET to pop. Fill to between min and max.

If you used non-OE coolant, I think OE is best.

Drain from engine block (so get new crush washer).

Fill with just distilled after replacing ET and look for leaks again. If you're good, drain from engine block again, after cooled down. If dirty, fill with distilled again and drive a little bit to op temp. Let cool, then drain again.

Then add the OE coolant straight before pre-mixing and top up to proper level with distilled. You'll have some distilled hiding in system that won't drain, and you want a full gallon of coolant in to get ratio right. For adding on subsequently, use 50/50.

So, you might want an extra gallon....not bad to keep around as you'll have some seeping and should monitor level closely anyway. It's a critical system, you know!
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Old 05-02-2012, 06:18 PM   #38
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What do you think of Meyle ET? I've heard plenty of members say they use Meyle products and they are OE quality or better.

$ bills $ are just running through my head. Shell out on this... wait no this... wait... what's that light mean?

*fanatic pops in* oh hey man! That light is awesome! It means you and your car get to go on a date for the next two weeks strait, in the garage!

....

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I pull up to meets, lean to one side, shakin my finger at all da playahaterz. Then I get back into my car and flash mah beamz.
323i brakes & rotors
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Old 05-02-2012, 10:22 PM   #39
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I didn't read through all of the thread.. but, you're Still having problems?
Where abouts are you in TX?
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Old 05-04-2012, 09:32 AM   #40
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I didn't read through all of the thread.. but, you're Still having problems?
Where abouts are you in TX?
I am still having the issue. Mainly, car overheats when max a/c is on or a/c is on below 70 F and sitting in Texas heat 90+ F for more than a few minutes.

I am short on cash so I don't want to just dance in front of it with the hood popped throwing money into the engine bay.

I am located in Central Texas(15 mins North of Waco).

My objective as of now is to order a new ET and cap, BMW OEM coolant, new crush washer, bleed screw, and givver a flush.

Fan is being... odd. Won't stay on while car is turned off to cool, will turn on during startup and when the engine gets hot while cranked. . .

Just looking for cheapest and most durable deal on an ET now.
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I used to drive fast and cowboy around, but then I realized that I can't even afford bumping into someone, so now it's slow and classy, with occasional spurts of speed. Fanatics might pick on each other from time to time, but we are all one great big family that looks out for each other in the end.
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I pull up to meets, lean to one side, shakin my finger at all da playahaterz. Then I get back into my car and flash mah beamz.
323i brakes & rotors
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