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Old 05-20-2012, 07:21 PM   #1
Trashcan
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Engine swap help

When removing your engine did you disconnect the exhaust at the point the headers meet the exhaust or disconnect the exhaust manifold at the engine?

Were stuck between how to do this. I say we should disconnect it at the end of the headers, but the guy helping me says that might not be possible without torching the nuts. Said when he tried to undo them on his e34 the only option was to torch a couple bolts.

Please share what you did, tips, tricks, insight, anything.

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Old 05-20-2012, 07:24 PM   #2
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I would think doing it at the engine is the best way especially if you havent removed all the stuff at the front. Also you can reuse your existing manifolds. Why are you swapping? post pics
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Old 05-20-2012, 07:41 PM   #3
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I will keep the same exhaust manifold.

Oil pump failure is the reason I'm swapping. Just another m54b30 engine.

Do you want pictures of piles of parts?

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Old 05-20-2012, 08:01 PM   #4
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I don't see why it wouldn't be easier to remove it with headers attached. 4 bolts that connect the exhaust vs dicking around trying to get at like 12bolts hidden behind resonators and all that crap. are they really going to be that hard to get off at the exhaust?

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Old 05-20-2012, 08:34 PM   #5
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How are removing the motor, through the front, out the top, or out the bottom? That will tell you what will be easier.
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Old 05-20-2012, 08:47 PM   #6
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How are removing the motor, through the front, out the top, or out the bottom? That will tell you what will be easier.
Sorry, I should have noted that. I'm pulling it out through the top.

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Old 05-20-2012, 08:53 PM   #7
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Going through the top, you should be ok with just popping the 4 bolts at the end of the headers. Even if you break those bolts, you can drill them out and replace them with ones (Inconel and all) from the dealer. If you have an auto, I would recommend removing the transmission cooler hard line so that you won't have to tip the motor to get it in or out.

Take care of any maintenance on the new motor that is easily accessible like the knock sensors, hard cooling lines on the side of the block and other things like that. Depending on the age of the motor, oilpan gasket may not be a bad idea (or at least inspect for leaks).
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Old 05-20-2012, 09:33 PM   #8
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Mine is manual. the new engine is from an 04 with 60k on it. Oil pan gasket will be done because I'm going to put in an oil pump upgrade so I don't have a repeat issue. Other than a new water pump, engine and transmission mounts, control arms, fcabs, belts, thermostat and all fluids i'm going to call it all good for now because of budget reasons

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Old 05-20-2012, 09:43 PM   #9
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So you have a failed oil pump bolt? Damn! That sucks man.
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Old 05-21-2012, 12:07 AM   #10
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You have no idea. For some reason I thought an engine swap would be a weekend job, maybe 4 days i'm 3 days in and the engines not out yet. I'm a little over my head, but thankfully I have someone more experienced that's helping me. I'm not a complete noob, nor am I am expert, kind of an advanced noob...



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Old 05-21-2012, 08:34 AM   #11
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When I pulled my 325ci motor I pulled it with headers attached. Unbolt A/C compressor and sling from frame rail, will save you from having to open up the system, disconnect wiring harness at drivers side box sling on top of motor, the shift brace arm thing can give you trouble when pulling the engine/trans out, so remove that and shifter. Leave intake manifold on, but remove things like DISA, air intake elbows, air box, obviously the cabin air filter housing (maybe you've done all this, just trying to help). Have a helper for the engine removal and installation that will be invaluable.
I am not one to replace parts prematurely, but new clutch kit for sure, and if your starter is original, it will never be easier than now.

Reinstall as complete as possible, minus a/c of course, have wiring harness attached to new motor and as connected as you can, minus disa and maf, then you just reconnect in the fuse/relay box, headers attached. Be careful with the bolts to the head from the headers as you swap, remember head in aluminum so be sure they are threading correctly before giving them the beans.

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Old 05-21-2012, 10:06 AM   #12
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ugh i cant wait to start my engine swap. just need the funding. think it will be a great experience instead of just doing small DIY's all the time.
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Old 05-21-2012, 10:27 AM   #13
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What kind of oil pump failure did you experience specifically? Sheared shaft? OPN? Do you track your car? Miles? Oil change intervals? I don't remember you posting about this so maybe help the community out with some info.

Also yes, I'd like to see pictures of piles of parts. I like that kind of stuff. Would be nice to see the failed part, specifically.
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Old 05-21-2012, 10:34 AM   #14
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what are you doing with the old motor, and what specifically is wrong with it?
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Old 05-21-2012, 10:53 AM   #15
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What kind of oil pump failure did you experience specifically? Sheared shaft? OPN? Do you track your car? Miles? Oil change intervals? I don't remember you posting about this so maybe help the community out with some info.

Also yes, I'd like to see pictures of piles of parts. I like that kind of stuff. Would be nice to see the failed part, specifically.
To be honest I have been waiting until I pull the "bad" engine to drop the pan and see what exactly is wrong with the oil pump.

I have never tracked the car. I only drove it about 9 months and was unaware of the oil pump issue. Had I researched it, believe it wouldn't have happened.

I spent about 200 miles of trying my hardest to keep up with an m3, and my guess is the nut came off the oil pump. I don't blame the car, just myself.

The cars at about 130k, 60k on the new engine. I changed my oil and filter every 3,000 miles. I made 2 threads regarding this just before winter.

Will post pictures this week sometime. You won't know what failed until I know, hopefully this coming weekend....

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Old 05-21-2012, 10:57 AM   #16
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Just so you know changing your oil every 3,000 oils is doing more harm than good. Synthetic oils begin to become effective at around 5,000 miles. If you're not using synthetic oil, you're using the wrong oil. Just tips for your new engine. You were trying to keep up with an M3 for 200 miles? Must've been a wild ride. What were the signs/symptoms when you experienced failure? Was it sudden? noises?
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Old 05-21-2012, 11:06 AM   #17
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what are you doing with the old motor, and what specifically is wrong with it?
Currently I do not know what's exactly wrong with it (dumb on my part, I know). But my plan is to either keep it for backup parts (new engine came with everything on it, from starter to alternator, to intake manifold, everything minus the exhaust manifold).

Since these cars are dropping in value so quickly (I think mine has dropped a couple thousand in like 18 months), when my car isn't really worth much I may take the "bad"engine and, bore, 10.5:1 pistons, vac motorsport "supercharged cams", new bearings, stage 2 head job from vac, supercharger and LSD along with the subframe reinforcement, to either make the car street/track or possibly a dedicated track car.

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Old 05-21-2012, 11:08 AM   #18
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There goes Mango prying as much info out from people as possible

If you guys find it annoying, don't. Information and knowledge is invaluable and this thread will inevitably become valuable for people searching later.

It's weird, how high were you reving? I know reving the engine pretty high increases the chances of the nut coming loose. Also, Pei did a full teardown of his B30 engine and gave some important info on some solutions.

Here is the link:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...891&highlight=

Good luck.
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Old 05-21-2012, 11:26 AM   #19
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well I was going to think about buying the short block from you to do the same thing as long as the head wasn't warped. But it seems like you have the exact same idea in mind. Have fun with it, and good luck with the swap
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Old 05-21-2012, 11:26 AM   #20
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Mine is manual. the new engine is from an 04 with 60k on it. Oil pan gasket will be done because I'm going to put in an oil pump upgrade so I don't have a repeat issue. Other than a new water pump, engine and transmission mounts, control arms, fcabs, belts, thermostat and all fluids i'm going to call it all good for now because of budget reasons

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If you don't mind me asking, how much did you get your replacement b30 motor for and where did you get it from? I may possibly be needing a whole new motor myself pretty soon..
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