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Old 05-25-2015, 01:03 PM   #1
rkneeshaw
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ESS Tuning Twin Screw Stage 2 (TS2) Supercharger Install Notes

I'm a DIY kind of guy, and have maybe moderate experience wrenching on cars. I've done a lot of things at one point or another, probably everything except transmission work. So I feel somewhat experienced, but by no means a professional at all. Anyway, I always knew I would tackle the TS2 install myself, and along the way I took notes on things that you could say might be a good supplement the instructions that ESS provides. So here goes.

I thought the install would take about 12-14 hours, but I ran into some challenges along the way and it took me closer to 16-18 hours. Some of my bigger issues involved snapping a stud on the head when tightening down the new ESS manifold to 22ft-lbs, resulting in the need to remove the manifold which ripped the gasket, so I needed to make another gasket, and then removing and ordering a replacement stud from BMW. Then I found out I had the wrong intake boot, which ESS quickly shipped the correct part overnight.

Recommended OEM Parts to Replace
So while you're in there, based on my experience with my car that has 100k miles on it, there are a couple OEM parts you may want to either have on hand or replace. I recommend picking up a fresh set of studs and nuts for the intake manifold in case some break. I also suggest getting a fresh o-ring for your oil dipstick. This is a great time to change your oil filter housing gasket, because its a huge PITA after the supercharger is installed. Clean your ICV and throttle body while they are in your hands.

Removing the stock intake manifold
I couldn't get to most of the bolts to remove it as one big piece, so I ended up removing the DISA, ICV, then the trottle body, and then I could get to the lower 16mm nut and remove the manifold

Removing the IAT plug
I had a hard time removing the intake air temperature sensor plug from my stock manifold. I ended up having to use needle nose pliers to grab onto the edge of it while using a screwdriver to release the clip. Had to lube it up to get it into the ESS manifold.

Trimming the top alternator bolt
The bolt I received that secures the new idler pullies to the alternator and oil filter housing gasket from ESS was slightly too long. Some have had their OFHG crack or shatter presumably because of this. The unthreaded "shoulders" were going to just slightly bottom out


I used a grinder to slim it down


Now it fits


Intercooler pump
I was initially sent smooth intercooler hoses with my TS2 kit that couldn't make the bends necessary without kinking. That is what initially led to the way I mounted the intercooler pump. But even after getting the ribbed hoses that can flex properly, I still found this mounting location to work better for me. Make sure to keep the mounting bracket low so that the fog light electrical connector will still have room when you mount the bumper.



Intercooler hoses
The instructions didn't say which port on the ESS manifold needed to go to the pump or the intercooler. I contacted ESS and they recommend connecting the upper port on the manifold to the outlet on the intercooler, and the lower port on the manifold to the inlet on the pump. This is more important than I thought. With the hoses in the wrong configuration I couldn't fill the system with coolant and it ran mostly air in there, which makes it useless. Here is the correct configuration.



Fitting the ICV to the ESS manifold
I found this to be difficult to fit properly. The 90 degree hose from ESS needs to be cut down a lot, and even then, the ICV twists in its rubber mount. Its just a weird angle but I guess it works.

Installing the ESS manifold
This is not very easy. Take some extra time to lay out the electrical components around the engine bay before you hoof this thing into the car. ICV in the middle, TB and MAF to the drivers side strut tower, and FVV components up front. Whatever length you think you will need for the throttle body and MAF connectors, add a couple inches more. Have someone hold the manifold about 4-6" from its final mounting place to give you a chance to hook up the ICV, FVV vaccum line and electrical connector, and the lower intercooler hose. Then carefully maneuver the manifold into position making sure that the lower intercooler hose routes BELOW the two coolant hoses coming out of the firewall, and be careful not to damage them while maneuvering the manifold into place! I am no professional but I would suggest torquing to something like 16ft-lbs (bentley manual says 11ft-lbs, but its a heavy manifold, so I compromised with 16ft-lbs). I snapped a stud at 22ft-lbs, and yes I verified my torque wrench was accurate.



Bolting down the fuel rail
When mounting the fuel rail it is best to push it as close to the intake runners as possible while you bolt it down. This is to ensure you can get the injectors angled towards the cylinder head as much as possible. Apparently this can help with some cold starts.

Installing the plastic cover around the brake booster
This is a major PITA. I finally got pissed and used every ounce of force I could muster to twist it in there right. How exactly I did it, I'm not sure, I just know I finally got it down there after about 20-30 minutes of pushing, pulling, sweating, swearing, looking for a punching bag, questioning my choices in life, etc.

Routing the PCV hose
I found the best way was to run it over and behind the top intercooler port on the ESS manifold, and keep it on top of everything. There is room back there even after the cabin air filter tray is reinstalled. Otherwise its hard to get the intercooler hose to gently arch down into the engine bay without kinking.



Routing the brake booster hose
It wouldn't lay right no matter which way I twisted or tucked it, so I ended up pulling the top section of the brake booster hose off of the Y-junction/valve and cutting off that last 90 degree bend (it's about a 3" length or so that I cut off, including the 90 degree bend). Then I reconnected it to the y-junction/valve and it lays in there real nice now.



Filling the intercooler with coolant
Not that its difficult, but I'll tell you what I did, not that I'm recommending it, do this at your own risk. I noticed it was filling very slowly, and almost came to a stop, and I was impatient, so I wiped off the end of the hose and wrapped my mouth around that hose and blew into it gently. That forced the coolant down through the pump a bit quicker and allowed me to get a good initial fill on the system. I had to do this a few times until coolant finally dribbled out of the top intercooler port on the manifold. Get it filled, then run the pump for a few minutes per the instructions, and fill again.

Supercharger Oil
I did a lot of research on this. I called Lysholm directly and the correct oil to use is a vortech part number 009028. This is a synthetic oil specifically formulated for twin screw superchargers and is a much thinner oil than the motor oils such as the Castrol TWS 10w-60 that ESS specifies in their instructions. Lysholm says NOT to use anything other than the Vortech 009028 oil, especially not a motor oil. Part number 009028 is about $50 directly from Vortech.



Turns out this Vortech part number 009028 is actually Nye Synthetic Oil 605, which is also sold as Ford specification ESE-M99C115-A, and GM part number 12345982. Get the GM stuff, its about $12 for a 4oz/120ml bottle. Perfect.

Startup and first drive
The car took two tries to fire up, and it stumbled quite a bit initially for about 5-10 seconds or so. Then the car settled into a nice easy idle. The first few times I accelerated up past about 3k-4k RPM or so there was a little bit of hesitation. I don't know if that was more air working its way out of the fuel system or if the DME was still learning things, or if the throttle is just a lot more sensitive, but it's gone away now that I have the 50 miles or so on the kit.

I have about 200 miles on the kit now, and I LOVE it. Car just pulls so strong! The supercharger whine is very subtle compared to my exhaust (cat-less headers and magnaflow cat-back). The LSD is almost a must, I can't imagine not having it.



When I did my install, I was very conscious to note what parts I would need or changes would be necessary to return the car to stock, and what would be needed for someone else who might buy my used TS2 kit. You know, just in case...

Parts needed to return to stock
About 4 1" hose clamps
New PCV hose (11617533398)
New brake booster hose (34336751108)

Parts needed to resell the kit
Blue Loctite
Intake manifold gasket
Possibly some longer hoses, since I cut mine to length
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ESS Twin Screw Stage 2 - Wavetrac - Headers - Magnaflow - BMW Performance Intake and SSK
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Old 05-31-2015, 09:42 PM   #2
rkneeshaw
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Need to add a note about the bolt that secures the new idler pullies to the alternator and oil filter housing gasket.

The bolt I received from ESS was slightly too long. The unthreaded "shoulders" were going to just slightly bottom out:


I used a grinder to slim it down:


Fits
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Old 06-01-2015, 10:16 AM   #3
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Nice write up and info.
I like your clear pics.

Lucky you noticed the bolt.
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Old 06-01-2015, 02:41 PM   #4
rkneeshaw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmos328Ci View Post
Nice write up and info.
I like your clear pics.

Lucky you noticed the bolt.
Thanks, I have to credit davew's thread, I think thats where I remember reading about it way back in the day. So when it came time to do my kit I remembered something about that bolt and paid closer attention to it.

Hope it helps someone else too!
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Old 06-01-2015, 06:38 PM   #5
jdjg
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if you look from the front the Intercooler, the left hole plug go with the pipe that came from the upper hole in the manifold? and the right hole plug go to the inlet water pump right?
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Old 06-01-2015, 09:06 PM   #6
rkneeshaw
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The intercooler itself isn't directional, so it doesnt really matter. The important part is the top barb on the manifold goes to the intercooler, and the bottom barb on the manifold goes to the inlet on the pump.

Another angle before I added in 90 degree elbow fittings to prevent kinking:
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Old 06-01-2015, 09:19 PM   #7
Davconelectric
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ESS Tuning Twin Screw Stage 2 (TS2) Supercharger Install Notes

Looks like ess has cut some costs if that's the hose supplied.
Click image for larger version

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Old 06-01-2015, 10:13 PM   #8
rkneeshaw
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Yep, all the pictures I've seen of this kit show hoses like yours. I bet they bend and twist around the engine bay a lot better than the hoses I have, my hoses want to kink up at almost every bend.
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Old 06-02-2015, 12:44 AM   #9
zander271
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What type of power are you putting down now?
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Old 06-02-2015, 09:18 PM   #10
rkneeshaw
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Not sure yet Zander, going to get this intercooler filled with coolant properly and then its off to the dyno sometime in july or august.

But, its a lot more than before!
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Old 06-03-2015, 04:55 AM   #11
cosmos328Ci
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkneeshaw View Post
Not sure yet Zander, going to get this intercooler filled with coolant properly and then its off to the dyno sometime in july or august.

But, its a lot more than before!
LOL, yes you will enjoy once all sorted.

Good luck.
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Old 06-03-2015, 01:25 PM   #12
cosmos328Ci
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davconelectric View Post
Looks like ess has cut some costs if that's the hose supplied.
Attachment 602256
Yes, I have the smooth hose as well.
I was disappointed when I received them in my kit.
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Old 06-03-2015, 11:17 PM   #13
bensonious
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Nice write up, I actually just did the install myself about a month ago. It was definitely more difficult than I thought it was going to be. The major issue I ran in to was a no start issue due to the water pump drawing too much power from the acc line. This caused the dme not to initialize. When I called ESS I told them I had 2 issues, 1. the pump wasn't running on advanced key position and 2. that it would just crank and not fire. The tech told me only to worry about the pump after I get a new ecu because it was bad. Turns out the pump was the cause of the no start. I ended up running a relay and using direct 12v power from the engine bay terminal. This worked out well and I was able to use a bmw relay and socket so it looked factory.

I agree with you about the pump position, its really tight. I think its because the power connector on the end of the pump sticks out too much and isn't flush like one in the instructions. Currently I'm only running on fog light until I can figure out a better solution. Maybe get a nicer bracket from ebay so it will lift it up a little so I can push it in away from the bumper more.

And if anyone else is going to do this install, do not, I say DO NOT unplug the oil/water sensor located between cylinder 5 and 6. I did this and it took me forever to get it back on because I had already installed the manifold. I had to chop up the sensor plug a little just to get it in.

On a side note, does anyone know the lengths of the spacers on the pulley bracket, I bought my kit used and it didn't have them. Currently has a bunch of washers in it's place (ghetto) and I think it's causing a belt misalignment issue.
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Old 06-04-2015, 12:19 PM   #14
rkneeshaw
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Originally Posted by cosmos328Ci View Post
Yes, I have the smooth hose as well.
I was disappointed when I received them in my kit.
I just cannot get the smooth hose to bend well at all. That last 8 inches or so before it reaches the top of the ESS manifold is kinking on me. I'm going to see if I can find out what the original hose was and see if I can splice it into that last section there, I want that intercooler to flow good.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bensonious View Post
Nice write up, I actually just did the install myself about a month ago. It was definitely more difficult than I thought it was going to be. The major issue I ran in to was a no start issue due to the water pump drawing too much power from the acc line. This caused the dme not to initialize. When I called ESS I told them I had 2 issues, 1. the pump wasn't running on advanced key position and 2. that it would just crank and not fire. The tech told me only to worry about the pump after I get a new ecu because it was bad. Turns out the pump was the cause of the no start. I ended up running a relay and using direct 12v power from the engine bay terminal. This worked out well and I was able to use a bmw relay and socket so it looked factory.
...
On a side note, does anyone know the lengths of the spacers on the pulley bracket, I bought my kit used and it didn't have them. Currently has a bunch of washers in it's place (ghetto) and I think it's causing a belt misalignment issue.
I agree about the difficulty level. I was ready for an adventure but it turned out to be a little more of an adventure than I expected The rewards is worth it though!!

Strange about your issue running the pump. I've had no such issue. Car starts and runs fine with the pump wired per the instructions from ESS.

I looked up my packing slip, those spacers are 22mm and 25mm.
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Old 06-04-2015, 01:47 PM   #15
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I would love this upgrade but I cant see myself spending that much on a supercharger for my 16 year old car These ever go on sale?

Great post!
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Old 06-04-2015, 07:40 PM   #16
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The way I looked at it was this. To get a lot more power I could sell the ZHP and get an M3 of similar vintage and miles for probably a $6k-9k premium, but then I wouldn't know the history of that M3 like I know the history on my ZHP. I'd also lose 2 doors. And I'd loose a bit of the sleeper effect. And I know I already had some major preventative maintenance things done to my ZHP (and done right) like having the subframe reinforced by Turner Motorsports themselves. So with that in mind, I decided to put that money into the car I already know inside and out, and how its been driven, etc. And now I can go beat M3s
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Old 06-07-2015, 08:39 AM   #17
Minnoe07
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I have the old hoses on my system as well. They were very hard to cut and shorten to the proper length. They also became very soggy at the ends if there was a coolant leak compromising the integrity at that connection. They definitely were pretty easy to route through the engine bay.

It's also been awhile since I installed the kit myself so correct me if I'm wrong. Isn't the center connection on the intercooler water pump the inlet and the side connection the outlet? If so, then wouldn't you want the outlet to pump directly into the top connection of the laminova cores? Then gravity and pressure would push the coolant through the cores and out the lower connection of the cores. Then it would route through the intercooler and then to the inlet of the water pump?

IIRC, the original kit were got with the group buy didn't have any fasteners that were incorrect in length. They must have changed a few things. My water pump also died probably a couple of years ago and had to get a new one from ESS. The new one they sent was definitely bigger than the last one and was definitely harder to place in the tight little space.
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Old 06-07-2015, 09:06 AM   #18
rkneeshaw
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You are correct, the center connection on the inter cooler pump is inlet. I think if the coolant routes down through the inter cooler first before reaching the pump you lose the gravity effect, or at least it's not as effective as it could be.

That is great feedback on those ribbed hoses that ESS originally used. That must be what davew meant when he suggested using better hoses. The newer smooth hoses are easy to cut and seem to be as durable as I've ever seen, it's gates cooling hose if I remember right. I'll scrap my idea of using the ribbed stuff in my kit then, I'll probably try putting a 90 degree elbow in and that should fix the last spot that wants to kink.

I heard it mentioned too that everyone should be sure to get clamps to use on all fittings, rather than nothing or zip ties, but in my kit ESS provided clamps for every connection. Probably another refinement.
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Old 08-23-2015, 08:52 PM   #19
rkneeshaw
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The smoother intercooler hoses aren't cutting it. They kink all over the place, and my biggest issue is with them kinking right as they come off the lower intercooler inlet port on the bottom of the intake manifold. ESS has sent me the ribbed hoses and I swapped them out, and now that I have them in hand I can tell you they are FAR superior to the smooth hoses I initially received.

First post updated. No 90 degree fittings required in the intercooler circuit if the right hoses are used.
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2003 BMW 330i ZHP
ESS Twin Screw Stage 2 - Wavetrac - Headers - Magnaflow - BMW Performance Intake and SSK
Turner Motorsports Reinforcements - H&R Spacers - Powerflex - StopTech


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