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Old 08-13-2012, 02:06 PM   #461
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bdave View Post
If you can get most of a finger between fender and tire with zero camber and finger at vertical then you are probably OK. You are not going to have much if any sidewall flex and bulge with those 30 series tires. They are hooking in first for you OK? Zero camber will help hook.

You had some battle with AFR's. Dont envy. Keep on going until you get it where you want it! You are Ok for now as far as drivability.
I going to need to cut the lip for sure. As it sits now with no changes it's rubbing on the outside under acceleration. Just enougf that the letters on "nitto" have dissapered and a little rubber on the lip. Can't hear any rubbing just the evidence. I took a pry bar and worked it a little as its only a slight amount. I also could get an adjustable mount for the rear to raise it then I would have more room.
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Old 08-13-2012, 02:56 PM   #462
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I going to need to cut the lip for sure. As it sits now with no changes it's rubbing on the outside under acceleration
A guy I knew did it in his driveway in no time flat with a saws all. An air tool rotary cutter is fine too.
He used silicone to seal the metal. NOT a good choice. Use bondo and then black tar underbody paint. You can get fancy and sand the bondo. We did not bother. A sanded finish is nice if you show off the work to anyone and have them rub the under side.

Realize that trimming is the first step. Before you bondo you CAN do a nice roll too to get even more flare for bigger tires later. heat gun, roll, then use an air tool grinder to smooth out any metal and then bondo, sand, and spray underbody paint.

If you decide to flare LATER then all your bondo work will crack.
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Old 08-13-2012, 03:00 PM   #463
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A guy I knew did it in his driveway in no time flat with a saws all. An air tool rotary cutter is fine too.
He used silicone to seal the metal. NOT a good choice. Use bondo and then black tar underbody paint. You can get fancy and sand the bondo. We did not bother. A sanded finish is nice if you show off the work to anyone and have them rub the under side.

Realize that trimming is the first step. Before you bondo you CAN do a nice roll too to get even more flare for bigger tires later. heat gun, roll, then use an air tool grinder to smooth out any metal and then bondo, sand, and spray underbody paint.

If you decide to flare LATER then all your bondo work will crack.
Thanks I am going to look at doing it for sure
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Old 08-13-2012, 03:04 PM   #464
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Car spins in first 3 especially 1st and second then in 3rd around 5500 rpm briefly car goes streight as an
Arrow with counter steering with the 100% lockup and is a blast. I use traction control set at sport which is the best setting in my experience that setting doesn't cut the power too much. I need to get the camber out of the rears wich will take some lip modification as mentioned above
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Old 08-13-2012, 05:27 PM   #465
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I agree with the zero rear camber except for HPDE. But its not a bad idea to always keep just a tad toe in...3/16" total for street and 1/4" total for HPDE. Or just leave it at 3/16" for good tire life. Toe OUT in front or rear will scrub your tires fast. Your rears should never be run with toe out.

Just realize that zero camber in the rears MAY all of a sudden cause fender clearance issues. Be prepared to trim the fender inside lip(saws all, then sealant or bondo followed by underbody spray) and roll if necessary.

I saw a a guy with a Nissan 350 once with wide rears. He decided to run an abnormal amount of rear camber JUST so his tires would not rub the outer fenders. The inside tire to road contact now will wear out in no time flat! And it LOOKED ridiculous.

Never adjust alignment just for the sake of fitting a tire. Run the alignment you need and then adjust any body panels as necessary.
Click image for larger version

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Ok left side done. Thanks for the advice. Bought a sazall and am going for it
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Old 08-13-2012, 07:29 PM   #466
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A guy I knew did it in his driveway in no time flat with a saws all. An air tool rotary cutter is fine too.
He used silicone to seal the metal. NOT a good choice. Use bondo and then black tar underbody paint. You can get fancy and sand the bondo. We did not bother. A sanded finish is nice if you show off the work to anyone and have them rub the under side.

Realize that trimming is the first step. Before you bondo you CAN do a nice roll too to get even more flare for bigger tires later. heat gun, roll, then use an air tool grinder to smooth out any metal and then bondo, sand, and spray underbody paint.

If you decide to flare LATER then all your bondo work will crack.
Now thats how you butcher a car. I spoke with a body guy regarding doing this and he said to be carefull as there are two pieces coming together, inner and outer...he said they might separate.

What was done on mine...remove the seamsealer, pinch the gap and then pull. Rolling works but it is not the prettiest, had that done first. End rusult was being able to tuck 285s. Now i've gone to 295s on 10.5" et25 TE37s and i have a solution in the works.

To the OP...good luck with your car.

Here is a pic tuckin 285/30/19 19x10 et25 no rubbing
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Old 08-13-2012, 07:38 PM   #467
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Now thats how you butcher a car. I spoke with a body guy regarding doing this and he said to be carefull as there are two pieces coming together, inner and outer...he said they might separate.

What was done on mine...remove the seamsealer, pinch the gap and then pull. Rolling works but it is not the prettiest, had that done first. End rusult was being able to tuck 285s. Now i've gone to 295s on 10.5" et25 TE37s and i have a solution in the works.

To the OP...good luck with your car.

Here is a pic tuckin 285/30/19 19x10 et25 no rubbing
Click image for larger version

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Yours look great Worked out well for me and I sealed it up with a liguid metal bonder then sanded down and added a truck bed liner spray to protect it. Looks fine and the seam was still firmly pressed together. I have a full finger I can put between the fender and the tire so now I can adjust my camber to zero and be all set
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Old 08-14-2012, 10:14 AM   #468
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So u can run 295 now or did u have to do other mods? What mods? I'm playing on going to a different rim and tire package so I can get the most rubber down with zero camber any suggestions off set and diameter would be helpful. Lots of info out there but I did it conflicting
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Old 08-14-2012, 11:22 AM   #469
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I think it would be a good idea to get another set of wheels. To be honest, those you have now are garbage and they weigh a ton. Getting yourself a set with the proper offset will allow you to maximize the amount of rubber you could run. I know there has been a ton of threads about the correct offset setup especially the guys looking to run DR's.

Good luck, seems that you are getting closer to getting all the bugs out of the car.
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Old 08-14-2012, 01:08 PM   #470
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Attachment 464907

Yours look great Worked out well for me and I sealed it up with a liguid metal bonder then sanded down and added a truck bed liner spray to protect it. Looks fine and the seam was still firmly pressed together. I have a full finger I can put between the fender and the tire so now I can adjust my camber to zero and be all set
Perfect! That's it.

When it comes to traction there are MANY things that are more important than tire width!!

`
1) Compound...the most important

2) Side wall height...important. a 30 ratio 19 inch is going to give you the least traction


Apex 17 inch wheels at 10.5 inches wide with 295's to 315's in a TRACK or a Drag Radial compound are going to give you best traction. You can go with 18's, sure, but then you run into tire diameter (too high) issues with most wide rubber.
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Old 08-15-2012, 02:51 PM   #471
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ZERO camber!!! unless hitting up auto-x and the race track then you want some neg camber.
Ok had an 4 wheel alignment done. They could only get -1.2 of camber to keep the toe within spec before running out of toe adjustment. I was at -1.7 so I am doing better. Any ideas how to Keep the toe in spec and get zero camber ? Is there an adjustable toe arm etc? I have aftermarket adjustable camber arms?
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Old 08-15-2012, 03:19 PM   #472
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Ok had an 4 wheel alignment done. They could only get -1.2 of camber to keep the toe within spec before running out of toe adjustment. I was at -1.7 so I am doing better. Any ideas how to Keep the toe in spec and get zero camber ? Is there an adjustable toe arm etc? I have aftermarket adjustable camber arms?
Raise the car on the coil overs some? What happens to the toe when your guy does attain zero camber?
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Old 08-15-2012, 08:06 PM   #473
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Raise the car on the coil overs some? What happens to the toe when your guy does attain zero camber?
I don't have coil overs just konis with h&r springs. I'll have to just wait until I go with new rims tires and coil overs. A winter project. Had a bent tie rod as well that was discovered. Just got the new front splitter to replace the damaged one. The one that's was on there was a cosmetic price of junk. Now I got a solid ac snitzer functional splitter. I'll put that on Sunday
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Old 08-16-2012, 12:19 AM   #474
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Car hooks well in second now with tires warmed up and camber change. 3rd has no spin at all. pump only haven't tried meth with new setup
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Old 08-16-2012, 12:42 AM   #475
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Raise the car on the coil overs some? What happens to the toe when your guy does attain zero camber?
Toe is set at 1/16
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Old 08-16-2012, 11:07 AM   #476
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Now thats how you butcher a car. I spoke with a body guy regarding doing this and he said to be carefull as there are two pieces coming together, inner and outer...he said they might separate.
yeah, this is true. If you cut too much of the lip off, the inner and outter fender can seperate. when I did mine, I left a little bit of the lip on there, then rolled and pulled the fenders.



OP, nice to see you working everything out on the car, i've been lurking this thread since the beginning.
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Old 08-16-2012, 09:54 PM   #477
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yeah, this is true. If you cut too much of the lip off, the inner and outter fender can seperate. when I did mine, I left a little bit of the lip on there, then rolled and pulled the fenders.



OP, nice to see you working everything out on the car, i've been lurking this thread since the beginning.
Thanks I appreciate all the support. I've been working steady getting the car the way i like it and having fun doing it.
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Old 08-16-2012, 10:42 PM   #478
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Toe is set at 1/16
When you attain zero camber your "toe in" is 1/16? That's fine. What is the problem? Sounds like you are doing great. Are you at zero camber right now? You should. That toe in figure will be fine.
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Old 08-16-2012, 11:50 PM   #479
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When you attain zero camber your "toe in" is 1/16? That's fine. What is the problem? Sounds like you are doing great. Are you at zero camber right now? You should. That toe in figure will be fine.
I'm at -1.2 camber with 1/16 toe in. Guy said thats thea best he could do with camber keeping the toe within spec
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Old 08-17-2012, 12:01 AM   #480
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I'm at -1.2 camber with 1/16 toe in. Guy said thats thea best he could do with camber keeping the toe within spec

So WHAT is your toe reading at zero camber? Exactly how far out of spec are you with ZERO?

Any toe OUT is death to your tire life, but you can run some more toe in with out killing your tires. maybe you can compromise and run -.75 camber.

The E9X do have aftermarket adjustable toe arms. Not for our cars that I could find. There has to be a way for you to run zero camber. Find a better shop.
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