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Old 06-10-2013, 10:45 PM   #761
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That explains why you are so brave with this!
X 2 lol, this explains all the madness
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Old 06-11-2013, 10:33 AM   #762
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I like the idea, but boy would you have to be really good at potting to the PCB. Not something I would attempt on my own...although I know of a few people (local) that are set up to work on really small stuff that it would be a cake walk for.
You didn't see my thread with my idle issue? I had to open the factory Dme and fix pins. Two broke. One ibwas able to use a non used pin. The other I had to solder a wire in the back side of the board.

Its not that its a hard Job for me just to time consuming lol. Being, when you get yours done post it up and ill send you mine haha

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Old 06-11-2013, 12:36 PM   #763
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You didn't see my thread with my idle issue? I had to open the factory Dme and fix pins. Two broke. One ibwas able to use a non used pin. The other I had to solder a wire in the back side of the board.

Its not that its a hard Job for me just to time consuming lol. Being, when you get yours done post it up and ill send you mine haha

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No I hadn't seen it at all... Good find and fix... I am wondering what caused the problem... Corrosion from moisture or from a loose contact and electrical noise? I noticed on some of my pig tail molex pins to the dme from jumperbox had some blackening from noise which has been resolved .... I'm running perfect now...


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Old 06-11-2013, 02:14 PM   #764
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Happened from corrosion. Somehow only on that one connector

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Old 06-11-2013, 08:59 PM   #765
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Happened from corrosion. Somehow only on that one connector

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Might be a good idea for us to use connector spray "DeOxit + ProGold"


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Old 06-11-2013, 11:00 PM   #766
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Wrong thread

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Old 06-12-2013, 01:02 PM   #767
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A few photos of the connector that was causing noise in the 5v sensor line. If u have a problem with throttle response, AFRs rich / lean and flat spots look at this connector closely in ur setup it could be the culprit.

Smaller of the two molex connectors (15 by 2 )from jumper box to factory DME

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See blackening on the connector from arcing

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The impact of this on the car is huge.... It effected every 5v sensor in the car.. Example my air / water temp was off by 10 degrees C as a result the AEM calculated fuel incorrectly.

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Old 06-12-2013, 07:00 PM   #768
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Re: buying a used HPF M3

Yup, I've posted pics like this before. With the black on the white. Black coming from jumper. I have a full proof idea I might be working with this weekend or next.

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Old 06-16-2013, 02:17 AM   #769
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Well all finished modifying jumper box. FYI This was initially a tedious job.... but once I got the rhythm of it, it was manageable. Took me about 3 hours I think?

Soldered wires on problem connector 2x15

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Assembled ready to go into car

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Drove car runs great, stable TPS voltage. I was able to run the car with AEM monitoring the map and cell locations. I was able to hold the cells in the finest resolution areas without instability. Meaning I can tune this car at high resolution.

For example I am within 1% and at times 1.5 % variance in TPS % on 5v signal voltage as a result of the modification. So thats between .02 to .06 of a volt as it is a very sensitive signal. Before the fix i was .20 volt drop from base voltage and had that fluctuation which was from 4% to 7% TPS variance making it impossible to tune. This would have an impact on cam vanos fluctuating as well as other sensors on 5v. I am also confident in the the problem not returning.

The problem is inherent IMO. One example: the drive by wire being driven by the jumper box the white 30pin molex connector is not hefty enough to carry the load. The wires are 22 gauge for most signals but when it comes to h-bridge power the wires r 16 gauge yet they use the same molex connector and tiny pins on one end and a large proper load carrying one of the opposite end that goes to the ecu. (Weakest link principle) So as a result arcing happens on the molex connector and over time the signal deteriorates causing rich / lean AFRs / unstable throttle and possibly spastic stalling on initial launch. This problem can appear then go away initially which can be frustrating. So IMO its a design flaw confined to the one 30pin (2x15) molex connector.
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Old 06-16-2013, 02:51 AM   #770
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Re: buying a used HPF M3

Impressive work!

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Old 06-16-2013, 05:02 AM   #771
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Re: buying a used HPF M3

Being3...you wana do mine. You owe me on
Are you doing the other side as well?
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Old 06-16-2013, 10:19 AM   #772
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Being3...you wana do mine. You owe me on
Are you doing the other side as well?
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IMO the other side does not need it done as the pins can handle the current. The same goes for on the AEM side. I would have no problem helping u out as u helped me. send me an email to discuss.


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Old 06-17-2013, 09:37 AM   #773
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IMO the other side does not need it done as the pins can handle the current. The same goes for on the AEM side. I would have no problem helping u out as u helped me. send me an email to discuss.


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Did you do it they way I talked about? Leaving pins on?

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Old 06-17-2013, 10:18 AM   #774
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Did you do it they way I talked about? Leaving pins on?

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I just removed the black plastic female molex on the jumper box side. Then I de-pinned one wire at a time exposing the pins from the harness. Then as u suggested I pushed each pin back on and soldered it and then heat shrinked them. I angled the pins up as u can see in the pic below so that I had room to solder. I found that doing the bottom roe first worked best and then put the heat gun to it. Then I did the top. I had to cut the black jumper box housing to make room for the wires. U could avoid this if you route the wires through the small opening first.

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Old 06-20-2013, 05:08 PM   #775
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A few things to watch out for from my experience

1 the intercooler was rubbing against the electric fan. I had to add a washer to increase the clearance. It would have eventually created a hole in the intercooler. Certainly had a nice wear mark. I would hear an intermittent clicking from front of the car and finely found the cause. ( for some reason I can't upload pics any longer, says invalid format?)

2 The catch can congeal the oil and can clog the lines because change in temp from engine to remote metal catch with 10-60 oil and is amplified in colder weather. I had to dissemble mine and blow it out with an air gun. This setup needs frequent maintenance. The wire mesh needs to be cleaned. Also do not fill the oil to the max line on the dip stick. Needs to be half way between the min and max marks!!! ( I cant overemphasize this) I made the mistake and it blew a lot of oil into my intercooler. I had to remove it and clean it with solvent and that's when I noticed the rubbing from the fan. When I had a tweaked S50 euro spec engine dropped in my e36 csl race car I had to put oil restrictors in the head because of the amount of oil that gets moved upstairs at high rpm...it would fill the catch can instantly. The catch can even had to have a return line to the oil pan. Not sure if this motor has similar issues but keeping the oil at the right mark solves the potential problem.

If u start to get the knock alarm and false 02 readings this can be a good indicator that oil is getting into the intake from the breather. It's not always bad gas.


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Old 06-26-2013, 09:10 PM   #776
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Solved another problem. I had oil consumption that seemed to be getting worse... I then started to see knock in the motor from time to time and the afr being rich but it actually was lean as oil messes with the afr and 02fb doesn't care and pulls fuel. At the same time I noticed my scavenge pump making strange noise. So I got ahold of a pump from Derek and he was really accommodating.

I saw that oil was getting into the compressor side of the turbo. I thought the turbo seals were done. So I ordered a 6766.

Replaced the scavenge pump today and the knock disappeared and so did the oil in the charge pipe.

My theory is that the pump was working but only giving a few psi (needs 5psi) and didn't get the oil out of the journal bearings fast enough and especially under boost with the pump acting like a restriction and it pushed the oil out the seals Into the compressor...

I have more testing to do to confirm but put it this way the car is f....ing fast and I'm equally as happy.

Excited to put the 6766 in now ... Should be here any day....

To prevent the 02 sensor / AEM from being fooled I tuned the car without 02 feedback above 11psi... This will also protect it if an 02 sensors fails... The car just runs straight off the map in hi boost with only basic fuel trims.



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Old 07-03-2013, 02:51 PM   #777
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Well I'm off for a few days and the turbos on the rest of the way out making room for the new one.. Then ill tune it for drivability myself and then off to the Dyno next week... Ill report back the findings.


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Old 07-05-2013, 01:24 PM   #778
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Well got the turbo off without removing the steed-speed as I first thought I would. Found some issues along the way. Hidden under HPF support plate my oil line to the turbo was overlapping the return oil line with the Check Valve (both r braided steel). Braided steel acts like a saw when they r crossed like that and cut into each other over time. I'm glad I found it before the line blew and catastrophic consequences to motor and human life. Imagine that happening at high speed and oil getting on the rear tires !!!!!! It seems to be related to the stage 2.5 and up with the check valve on the oil scavenge line.

Repair: replace oil line to turbo if damaged.
Preventive: simple put rubber insulation around oil Line at crossover.

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Old 07-05-2013, 09:23 PM   #779
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Found my Bango fitting with braided line failed at the crimped on fitting. Its the Return Oil line from the head to oil pan. Scary how easy it fell off while checking things.
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Also the oil line from turbo to scavenge pump was rubbing on the oil pan and was slowly wearing the line. I covered all oil lines with protective cover where they came in contact with anything.

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Old 07-06-2013, 02:36 AM   #780
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Old 6776 S Cover compared to new 6766 with H cover... Noticeable difference in size. Old turbo goes out Monday for rebuild as it had excessive end play.

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Finally installed.. was able to do it all from underneath without removing Exhaust manifold. Now ill button it all up tomorrow.

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