Just bought your non-M E46? Bare essentials maintenance checklist (part #s included)

Someone should really make one of these for M3's.

Originally Posted by illestminimike

Someone should really make one of these for M3's.

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=190111

Forgot about that one.

Any reason to use redline d4 atf for manual tranny fluid? I've been researching this, and it seems many use this for their manual gearboxes, yet I'm hesitant to do so.

Originally Posted by SteadyMobbin

Any reason to use redline d4 atf for manual tranny fluid? I've been researching this, and it seems many use this for their manual gearboxes, yet I'm hesitant to do so.

It's perfectly fine. I've been using D4 ATF in ZF 5SD320Z 5-speed units now for close to 100,000 miles in two cars successfully. My transmission runs great. I'd change this fluid out every 30,000 miles.

http://www.vacmotorsports.com/catalo...tic-d4-atf.htm

Originally Posted by E46Mango

It's perfectly fine. I've been using D4 ATF in ZF 5SD320Z 5-speed units now for close to 100,000 miles in two cars successfully. My transmission runs great. I'd change this fluid out every 30,000 miles.

http://www.vacmotorsports.com/catalo...tic-d4-atf.htm

I have a 6 spd. Did some more research and it turns out the zhp gearbox doesnt respond good to the redline atf. Gonna go with the pentosin since its oe spec, I want my tranny to last....

So I am making sure I understood correctly from your guide:
a 2005 330Ci will have a ZF auto transmission? (not GM?)

Originally Posted by Washburn

So I am making sure I understood correctly from your guide:
a 2005 330Ci will have a ZF auto transmission? (not GM?)

The best way is to go under your car and check. I just pulled my info off a BMW automatic transmission chart I found on the internets and compiled it into a sort of easy to follow guide.

If anyone wants to edit it, copy paste w/ your edits and post below and I will change it.

alrighty- will try to do that - don't have ramps, but I am skinny think I can still see it somehow?
which side should be the correct side to see the decal on the trans?

I completed about half of your list, drove car +/-100 miles today, no problems. Got to my destination; car rough idled for maybe 20 seconds, then won't start! I've ordered the fuel filter; waiting a few days for delivery.


Suspension Refresh
Done
Eibach Coilovers and Control Arms

Battery
Done

Engine oil
Done

Spark plugs
Done

Air filters
Done

Cabin air filter
Done

Brake fluid
Done

Valve cover gasket
Done

Oil filter housing gasket
Done

Exterior/interior Cleaning
Done!

Brakes
Done

Anyway, good write up and good starting point.


[QUOTE=E46Mango;14420925]Just bought your E46?

You just bought your non-M E46 (323/328, 325/330) and you are probably wondering: What do I do now?
Lets start with the basics, shall we?

Voltage regulator:
The voltage regulator is located on the back of the alternator. It regulates voltage to ensure proper operation of the electrical system. Basically by around 6-10 years, they start to fail. This will kill a new battery. Replace it.This one is a bit tricky because you'll have to pull your alternator out to know which kind you need. There's a rounded D-shaped connector and squared off rectangle connector. Pray you have the squared off rectangle connector because it's cheaper. The D-shape connector is found by searching under the BMW Z4.

Final stage resistor:
This must be replaced. It can drain your battery (killing it permanently no matter how new or old it is) and cause your blower to blow inconsistently or not at all. Replace it. Part#64116923204
Autozone 49DL

Fuel filter
OEM Mahle. If your upper intake boot has an "F" connector with a vacuum line attached, your car has the integrated fuel pressure regulator. Most E46s come with this. I believe the M56 SULEV 325 cars use the plain in/out filter. Do this every 50,000 miles. Part number: 13327512019

Differential oil
Synthetic 75W-90 gear oil such as Mobil 1 75W-90. Your non-LSD diff holds approximately 1 quart. Do this every 50,000 miles

Transmission oil
Manual:
BMW MTF-LT-2[/URL], equivalent Pentosin MTF2, or other equivalent. I use Redline D4 ATF. You can also use Redline MT-90.

Clean idle control valve
http://www.bmw-planet.com/2009/01/10...-cleaning-e46/ Clean every 50,000 miles. If needs replacing, part number: 13411744713.
You might want to replace the rubber boot which seals it to the intake manifold. Part number: 11611437453.

Clean throttle body
Couldn't find a DIY, but personally I recommend cleaning it. From the outside (front) mine appeared to be spotless.
The backside was a VERY different story. Use throttle body cleaner. Requires removal of the airbox, upper and lower intake boots, and electrcial wire junction box. Four bolts hold it on. Replace the rubber throttle body gasket. Throttle body gasket for 323/325/328 part number: 11611716174, for the 330 it is: 13547504729

DISA
This part can also cause vacuum leaks. It works by altering the volume of the intake manifold depending on engine operation/speed. Remove and inspect yours to ensure the flap is not loose.
You should feel resistance as you manually operate the flap. There should be no excessive noises or rattling. Part number if you'd like to replace: (courtesy of JFOJ)
330/3.0L engines currently use BMW Part #11617544805, this appears to have superseded an earlier BMW Part #11617502275
Reseal or repair using: http://germanautosolutions.com/DISA_...epair_Kit.html

Vanos line
Do this when you replace the oil filter housing gasket. Part number: 11361705532
Also replace four 14x20 copper sealing gaskets, part number: 32411093596

Power steering
Use ATF Dexron III only. Replace reservoir as it has integrated filter. Part number: 32411097164
Also trim and re-clamp (using new universal clamps) the power steering lines to the bottom of the reservoir and to the return line at the pump. The BMW clamps get loose over time and oil leaks/seeps out.




And of course, last but not least, the cooling system.
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=914109

These are the absolute bare essentials. There's still the suspension, drivetrain items, bushings, etc. But the above list should be the first things you do._nr_

This sums it all up !! Thanks man

amazing write up

You're welcome. Welcome new members +25MP for reading and commenting this thread within your first few posts!!

The how to "Mango" your car DIY.

Great write up!

Mango, you're like my best friend when it comes to helping me dial in my new E46! I've gone through the first bunch of stuff and now I'm moving onto the suspension refresh guide.

Originally Posted by E46Mango

Power steering

Use ATF Dexron III only. Replace reservoir as it has integrated filter. Part number: 32411097164

Also trim and re-clamp (using new universal clamps) the power steering lines to the bottom of the reservoir and to the return line at the pump. The BMW clamps get loose over time and oil leaks/seeps out.

Sorry to burst your bubble, but my E46 is ONLY supposed to have CHF fluid in the power-steering box..

So it's best to use ONLY what the cap on the PS box specifies..

Originally Posted by Angelic0-

Sorry to burst your bubble, but my E46 is ONLY supposed to have CHF fluid in the power-steering box..

So it's best to use ONLY what the cap on the PS box specifies..

Vehicles sold in extremely cold climates were fitted with a different cap and spec'd with CHF-11S. Its viscosity is thinner and better suited for such temps. The system, AFAIK, is designed to run on both.

As the vast majority of E46s use ATF, ATF is called for. If your cap says something else and/or you live in a cold climate, you could reconsider.

Whatever you do, do not mix.

Mango, how come you don't have a link to me in your sig? Like to my furrie thread or the one funny show I had?

Nice sig photo, btw!

/threadjack

Originally Posted by E46Mango

Vehicles sold in extremely cold climates were fitted with a different cap and spec'd with CHF-11S. Its viscosity is thinner and better suited for such temps. The system, AFAIK, is designed to run on both.

As the vast majority of E46s use ATF, ATF is called for. If your cap says something else and/or you live in a cold climate, you could reconsider.

Whatever you do, do not mix.

I have accidentally run ATF in a CHF system that had been drained completely on my E38...

It had catastrophic effect on my pump, so i advise from using ATF in a CHF-11S system...

CHF-11S is a sort of hydraulic fluid, it can be compared to LHM fluid and LHM fluid can replace CHF-11S where not available...

Not to reign on your parade, but i thought this should be put out there

Originally Posted by Angelic0-

I have accidentally run ATF in a CHF system that had been drained completely on my E38...

It had catastrophic effect on my pump, so i advise from using ATF in a CHF-11S system...

CHF-11S is a sort of hydraulic fluid, it can be compared to LHM fluid and LHM fluid can replace CHF-11S where not available...

Not to reign on your parade, but i thought this should be put out there

You probably mixed fluids or had a pump on its way out anyway. We see BMW power steering pumps die all the time irregardless of fluid type.

Besides, this is not an E38 forum. And what makes a system a "CHF-11S system" vs an "ATF" system? That would mean the components would have to be built specifically for the two different fluids.

As I said, what your car is spec'd for is based on the climate you live in. Unless you have evidence to the contrary (different pumps and racks)