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///M3 Forum
The BMW E46 ///M3 is the M version E46 and puts out an amazing 333 HP and 262 lb-ft of torque at stock specs! There are an amazing amount of modifications for both the coupe and convertible models so read up and get started modifying your cars today!

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Old 02-27-2013, 06:52 PM   #61
kiwami
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 15
My Ride: 04 ///M3 SMG
I checked the plugs & problem persisted.
then replaced the Salmon relay and it did it 3 times and 2 times it would select only 2nd to start from a stop, restarting the car would allow it to select 1st.

after replacing the Salmon relay none of the codes have come back even when the car failed to down shift to first but now I still get a "new" code :

11 unknow trouble code description. please your factory guides for any information.

I ordered the gear selector sensor and the 4 compression springs.

my guess a combo of acting up Salmon relay and dying GPS. I'll change the compression spring while at it.

note reason why i add the Salmon relay into the mix:

running a few SMGII test I came across pump codes:
56 switching-on time of Hydrolic unit
53 Lower level of pressure reached HE

after replacing the Salmon relay pump max run time is now 7 seconds vs 10 sec when unlocking the car.
and like2 when recharging vs 5sec or so. most likely the relay could not supply enough current anymore specially after it got hot.

Last edited by kiwami; 02-27-2013 at 06:53 PM.
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Old 03-02-2013, 11:10 AM   #62
Blakbond
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Where do u order the springs from?
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Old 03-05-2013, 05:52 PM   #63
Chpjames
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First off, GREAT post! Your help is greatly appreciated!

Quick background....I have an '02 M3 with 88,000 miles one it, completely stock. A few minor fixes (wheel bearings, bushings, etc...maintenance stuff really). The dealership did put a new clutch in at 40k miles (under warranty) but besides that she's been perfect. I drive easy. Never been tracked or abused. Most of the miles are commute freeway miles. I did all of your tests and everything is fine. Pump runs for 7 seconds, no flashing on the dash board when shifting into 1 or N, etc. Also, the hydraulic fluid is 1.5" past the 'max' line in the reservoir.

The past month to month and a half I have been having an issue with what feels like clutch slipping but have a hard time believing it's the clutch. The current clutch has less the 50k miles on it (grandpa miles at that!). When the car is cold or has been sitting 30 min or so the problem seems to happen. After it warms up it's almost gone. So here's the issue....I leave my house and as I drive down the city street as soon as I take my foot completely off the gas after 3-5 seconds the tach will drop to idle rpm (900 or so). It does not shift to neutral on it's own but sorta feels like I did. As soon as I give it a little bit of gas it pops back to the appropriate rpm (2500-3000ish). As long as I have my foot into it the problem doesn't persist. Now let's say I'm on the freeway....I'm cruising at 65-70mph and I slightly take my foot off the gas, but not all the way off, and it pops out of gear and since my foot is still slightly on the gas it will rev higher than what the rpm are suppose to be. As soon as I hit the gas, down shift with a paddle, etc it will pop right back into the appropriate gear. The whole time this happens it never shifts into N or another gear. It feels like I shifted in N but the dash board stays in the appropriate gear.

What do you think? I tried the soft reset a handful of times and it took care of the bucking from a stop but not the 'slipping issue'. I had a forum recommended BMW mechanic that was very hip on all the pump issues etc scan it with what he said was a BMW scanner and no codes came up. No lights on the dash have ever popped up! Also, the first time I ever felt this happen was 1 mile after I put new rear tires on. I also went from the stock 35 series to a taller 40 series.

I have an AE but only have the Ford package (I own 6.0 diesel that has a ton of issues). Can I get the BMW software and wire connections with out spending an arm and a leg?

ANY help would be greatly appreciated!
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:54 AM   #64
roadtrip1098
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I actually had a similar issue when I got new rear tires. I thought the clutch was slipping, but it was the tires spinning. That being said I don't know if that's your issue - when switching to a taller tire, you're losing leverage and putting (slightly) more strain on the drivetrain. This can cause premature clutch wear, but in your case I would almost bet the adaptation just needs to be run.

The good news is that if you're somewhat computer savvy, there's a few eBay vendors selling the GT1/DIS/PROGMAN/Carsoft with a USB to K-Line OBDII plug in for $40-$50. They do require some installation of virtual machines, and picking ports, ect. but essentially you will have full dealer capabilities which will save you tons in the long run. How legal these programs are is kind of a slippery slope, but they do work.
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Old 03-08-2013, 10:47 AM   #65
Chpjames
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THANK YOU for the reply! I'm going to search for that adapter and software on eBay and go from there. I will keep you posted!
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Old 03-08-2013, 11:12 AM   #66
Chpjames
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Roadtrip1098....can I ask you for a huge favor. Can you copy and paste to me the exact eBay ad you would buy for the GT1/DIS/PROGMAN/Carsoft you recommend? I was just on eBay and there are a bunch to choose from (some from Romania, U.S., etc) and I want to make sure I get the right one that would best fit my needs.
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Old 03-09-2013, 01:47 PM   #67
John 3:16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadtrip1098 View Post
That sounds like the compression springs to me. Good news is that it's inexpensive to fix. Bad news is that it's a PITA to get to. If that doesn't fix it, you'll probably be looking at a gear position sensor before long.
Hi Roadtrip1098, Im on the otherside of the world and after reading your thread will go out tomorrow and perform your suggestions but I suspect the springs have gone or its the pump which in my country is your life savings. Im still considering converting to manual but in the mean time where can I purchase the springs in the USA?(NOT AVAILABLE IN South Africa)
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Old 03-09-2013, 02:09 PM   #68
John 3:16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadtrip1098 View Post
That sounds like the compression springs to me. Good news is that it's inexpensive to fix. Bad news is that it's a PITA to get to. If that doesn't fix it, you'll probably be looking at a gear position sensor before long.
These compression springs are unheard of in my country.Can you direct me to a supplier in the USA? Thanks for a most informative thread.
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Old 03-09-2013, 06:00 PM   #69
kiwami
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Well i replced the sensor. No more stock in gear. But now I don't have 2nd gear, 4th gear or 6th gear. & I had bought the compression springs but someone threw it in the garbage. So this time I'm going to order both springs with all the parts like pin etc. I'll replace them next Saturday. Hopefully that selves the gear skipping problem.

Funny that with the old gear position sensor it shifted fined until the sensor decided to not read & I would start the car again & it shifted all gears.

Any suggestions?
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Old 03-18-2013, 01:13 AM   #70
Ramseyd
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I have a very tough one that i haven't seen on here yet. Ok, i unlock and hear the pump just like i should. I get in and go to start, peddle is stiff, car engages into "N" when i go to start its nothing all i hear is the pump... :/ I have done the hard press on the break peddle, I have made sure the trunk hood and gas tank are all shut. battery is fine and even hooked up a jumper box. THINGS TO KEEP IN MIND I have not replaced the salmon relay, the car is on a downwards incline out front of my house, and it was shut off and on at least 5 times that day, i opened the trunk took a car cover out went inside to shower and when i came out this issue happend. I really need to figure this out and fast. ANY help would be amazing
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Old 03-18-2013, 01:43 AM   #71
turbo_f22_pilot
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@ Chpjames - just go here, all the info you want.
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EU-CSL Coded / Macht Schnell intake / OEM CSL Wheels / OEM CSL Diffuser / Dinan Exhaust
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Old 03-19-2013, 04:43 PM   #72
Ramseyd
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Hey guys I have a little thing that may work for you guys that have a SMG M that won't start. I just had that problem with mine and latterly tried everything then come to find out it was the key. The key would unlock and everything but with the help of a dealer I was told to open the key up and go out to Walmart and get a new battery and try that. So thinking it was BS I went and did that and what do you know, car fired up right away. Not sire if this was already posted but I just thought I'd share.
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Old 03-09-2014, 12:52 AM   #73
delamont
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intermittent delay on 1-2 upshifts

I'm having an issue that I haven't seen solution for elsewhere... but this thread gives me some hope!

I was having problems starting with a delay occasionally when shifting from 1-2 (almost exclusively in S5 and S6). Most of the time it's typical SMG shift - very fast, occasionally with a good thump, and smoother at high RPMs than low. But 5-10% of the time, it takes 2-3 seconds to make the shift, and in that time the SMG is not controlling the throttle like it usually does during a shift - if I put my foot down or lift up, the engine revs higher or lower, and then it will shift into 2nd.

It happens just as much when the car is warmed up as cold, and at high and low-rev shifts.

Downshifts are fine, and upshifts between every other gear are normal.

It's pretty scary when it happens in the middle of an intersection turning left with oncoming traffic and all of a sudden I'm just coasting.

Eventually the car started dropping out of gear on its own. Took it to the indy shop and they replaced the GPS and wheel speed sensors. It doesn't drop out of gear any more after the repair, but the problem with occasional delays shifting from 1-2 are still there.

Soft reset hasn't made a difference, and the shop isn't sure what else it could be. Any ideas?
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Old 03-09-2014, 12:32 PM   #74
kiwami
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Delamont you need to replace the compression spring on the transmission.
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Old 03-09-2014, 11:52 PM   #75
delamont
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That was the most likely thing I could think of, unless they hadn't done a full readaptation after the other work. I would hope that they went in and checked these springs when they had it all apart for the other work. Here's hoping! It's a bit of a beast looking at 3-4 hours of labor to replace a $12 spring or two...

Thanks - that gives me something a bit more solid to go back to the shop with...
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Old 05-23-2014, 05:55 AM   #76
dimi_108
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Thanks for the guide mate. I always refer back to this thread if my SMG cog light comes up.
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Old 06-23-2014, 01:39 PM   #77
roadtrip1098
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Just a quick bump and reminder. It's Summer time, with the added heat temp sensors are more likely to fail. I've had 2 pm's this week presenting symptoms of a bad hydraulic temp sensor. If your car goes to 'N' or '0' while driving or refuses to shift into gear when stationary this is the likely culprit. Also I wanted to add, that being as the e46 is a few generations old now and most have well over 100k on them, start expecting some worn out clutch issues. I traded my ///M over a year ago, so I may not be on here as often to help. Also I'm forgetting a lot of BMW stuff, making room in my head for Subaru STi woes.
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