E46 Xi Forum
The E46 XI was produced from 01-05 in sedan and touring body styles. Powered by either a 2.5L inline 6 in the 325xi or a 3.0L inline 6 330xi. Discuss all thing about BMW AWD E46 'Xi' here.
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|06-23-2012, 06:37 PM||#1|
[Build Log] Blowing [up] my auto 325xi
Just starting this now because I am excited and have time. Yesterday I paid for an AA stage 2 kit to slap on my humble auto 325xi. Currently the only real problem I'm seeing while looking at other people's installs is the intercooler piping. However I have PM'ed a couple FI xi owners with intercoolers (one even has an auto! Yes I'm talking about you, redbull325i) so that problem might solve itself.
The goal is to do as much of the install as I can myself. If I get stuck and it's all taken apart, I have the mobile number of a tech at my shop who builds, races, modifies, and does all sorts of wonky things to motorcycles. Oh and he has installed three S/C kits on E46s, which helps :p Plus AA has offered all the phone support I might need to make this work.
I will try my hardest to get before and after pictures and hopefully pics along the way. That is a promise I'm really trying to stand by but one that often gets thrown aside due to the necessity of washing my hands after every step and/or re-gloving after every step.
There is an AWD mustang dyno less than one hour from my house and I have the tools to flash ZHP trans software (engine will hit rev limiter before trans shifts since forced shift moves to 6900rpm). If the interest is high enough, there is the possibility of a before/after dyno. This also depends on how much they charge for runs. If this would be of interest to you, please let me know so I can keep a tally.
Here are a couple before shots from not too long ago.
-After drop, before tints, after HID retrofit
-Shortly after tints
-I'm rather proud of how well the retro turned-out. Trim has been adjusted since this pic.
This next bit is pulled straight from my asking for advice thread in the FI forum that somehow got derailed by discussion about a company that doesn't do FI for non-m cars... twice.
-Purchased Aug. 2007 for $14K with 47,500mi. on the odometer
-Build date 12/2002, purchased originally April 14, 2003 by then-manager of the local NBC affiliate.
-Prior to purchase, all maintenance done by BMW on schedule.
-Alpine White with Natural Brown interior & myrtlewood trim
-ZPP, ZCW, non-HK, rough road package.
-Front brakes/rotors: Feb.
-Front LCA/:CAB: Feb.
-Entire CCV system: Feb.
-New springs/shocks/RSMs: March
-Electric fan conversion: March
-New electric fan (BEHR crapped itself, so I got Bosch): June
-Entire cooling system w/ OEM parts (sans lower hose): May
-Oil/filter change: April
-Front axles/diff seals: June
-Front Diff. fluid: June
-New fuel filter: June
-Brake flush: June
-A/C flush/refill: June
Happening During Install
-Radiator Lower Hose
-Coolant Temperature O-ring
Still Needs to Happen Soon
-Transfer Case Fluid Flush
-Transmission Fluid/Filter Change
-Rear Diff. Fluid Change (even though mech. said front diff fluid was still probably 60% good)
-White vinyl roof rails
-Exterior detail by Reflections Detailing of Utah (Greg Nichols)
-Stainless e-bay headers, ceramic coated w/ high-flow spun metallic Magnaflow cats
-Injen long-tube intake
-EU2 Emissions flash (still runs SAP though for some reason; but no complaints because I DO have cats)
-Mtech 2 front and rear kit w/ ALL appropriate hardware
-Morimoto MH-1 projector reftrofit with TRS XB-35 bulbs & custom prism shields Heinously sexy cutoff and prism
-Eibach ProKit springs
-Bilstein HD front
-Bilstein Sport E36 M3 Rears
-FormulaOne Pinnacle 50/30 Front/Rear
-Headlight Lens Refresh
-Clears all around
-Matte kidney grilles
-Opaque angel eyes
-Dynavin V5 w/ 6/10 speakers replaced (factory tweeter and rear door) (midbass w/ solid PVC mounting in front and rear)
-Dynamat complete trunk w/ decklid and rear deck w/ rear deck refresh
-Complete Leatherique treatment front and rear w/ plastics refresh
-Matte vinyl window trim and pillars (if it fades, it's easy to redo)
-M3 Wheel w/ custom non-m lower trim and possible tri-color stitching dyed (the car isn't an M and will never be one)
-Burl Myrtlewood manual shifter with selector cap switched for roundel or gloss black cap
-Wheels (see below)
-Possibly re-dye of heated power sport seats to natural brown for the front (unlikely)
-Reach 200,000mi. of love
Right, that should give you all some idea what I'm working with and why I don't really want to sell the car. It's just so clean and well-kept even though it hasn't seen a garage for well.... it's entire lifetime.
I imagine the first thing people will say is, "You're super charging it. . . Please, tell me once more why you haven't bought new wheels?" The answer to that is that there's no good answer. Also wheels are expensive, and I have a hard time justifying the cost. Also, if I'm going to wheel-up, they would need to be lighter than style 45's and look semi-factory. No chrome, no silly lips. My tires are wearing out though. I'm almost certain they'll nearly fail safety which means there's no way in hell I'm driving on them through the winter. So hit me with wheel suggestions and links. I'm partial to 17" and 18". I know there is always the CSL rep from Umnitza; but 24lbs/corner.... Pretty sure that's what the 45's weigh if not less. And 225x40x18 will weigh more than 205x55x16, compounding the issue. It matters to me because canyons are my summer pastime. Plus there's the track not too far away. Maybe I'll start doing that and hemorrhage even more money and time.
Anyway, expect fun things ahead! My apologies to Doug and E46Mango. I offer my condolences in the form of the car being well-maintained and everything being torqued to spec due to OCD. Recall as-well that I keep 8 bottles of Gummi on-hand.
My dentist (who lives 4 doors down the street) offers to buy the car every time I'm in for a check-up. Three weeks ago he offered $12000 cash. For what I spent on a supercharger, that money, and $1000 on top I could have had an Imola Red SMG M3 w/ about 85k on the clock. That's how strong the unhealthy emotional attachment to this car is. For me, the supercharging isn't about having a fast car. If I wanted a fast car I'd look to a secondhand 335i or 135i. For me, this is about enhancing my car. I don't give two poops about straight-line versus other cars. As long as I see improvement compared to my car I'm joyful.
All "car stuff" images are generally uploaded to this folder. Feel free to browse it at your leisure. It contains some Rolls Royce content as well.
Okay guys, one last photo I took today for World Pentax Day using my spiffy Pentax K5. This was on the way to take photos. Yes, I have some diffraction.
Last edited by deadwood83; 06-24-2012 at 01:28 AM.
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|06-23-2012, 11:27 PM||#2|
Join Date: Oct 2010
My Ride: 4cyl of fury
Looking forward to following this! I really want to get my Xi supercharged but with a new house and a wedding to pay for, it'll be a few years yet...
Good luck and hope this eventually becomes a sticky!
|07-04-2012, 11:57 PM||#4|
It has begun! I just ordered a custom vent gauge from VEI Systems. It's boost/vacuum and AFR, it ships Monday. Expect a DIY along with the install of an LC-1 on an XI. It's a different approach since the xi has the ABS module in the drug bin, where people normally relocate the O2 sensors to or place gigantic resistors. The price absolutely blew literally every other popular gauge alternative out of the water, and Niel has been fantastic about answering questions, even hinting that they are planning on adding a datalogging piggyback later this year.
I'm also prepping to do a compression test, just in case. It's probably not necessary, but good practice. I leave for the redrocks tomorrow morning, so expect the compression results Monday or Tuesday.
Last edited by deadwood83; 07-04-2012 at 11:58 PM.
|07-13-2012, 05:10 PM||#5|
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: San Diego
My Ride: '12 135i DCT
I really like your car. In my opinion, you're doing everything the right way. Putting maintenance first and always opting for very tasteful mods. I can't wait to see where this goes. I really enjoy seeing photos of your car!
|07-13-2012, 06:42 PM||#6|
The Fed-Ex man stopped by today. He asked what exactly I am up to since yesterday he dropped-off a 60lb box (12 quarts Redline D4, 3 quarts Redline 75w90) and today he had a box I could comfortably curl-up in. After acting totally cool and calmly accepting the box I pulled everything out and looked at it. Then I looked at my car since it was up in the air for the LC-1 install anyway and held up piping.
Then I called my indy.
The self-install is a no-go. HOWEVER. I do plan on taking any pics anyone wants with protractors and measuring tapes once it's installed! I would do this myself but my friend who's dad owns Hi-Tech Turbos is out of town so I cannot steal one of their bays and a mandrel bender. Also I am a full-time+ student (17 credits normal semesters, 13 summers) and finals are week after next, so that adds to the complexity.
My trust in my choice of shops was re-affirmed. The tech who works on my car (he asks to be assigned to it) complements the work I do on it, and I complement the custom work he does on it. Really our roles are reversed. BMW maintenance I handle (unless weary or lacking in special tools) and he does the custom work and/or things that require more than 3 ratchet swiveling extensions and/or welding. He was absolutely giddy to have the opportunity to install this. He knew of my plans to go FI, and he had a feeling I was going to do it myself, and he flat-out admitted that he wanted to drive the car once the break-in period was up. After he concluded that he can make it work, he looked at me and flat-out told me that he was going to cut-out the high-flow cats I had him install after I did headers. I was not given a choice in the matter.
I found that comforting; as I intended to have him cut them out anyway. He then urged me to consider a new exhaust system. I know that with headers and stock exhaust there WILL be some drone (which will drive me mad). My intention is to avoid having a car that competes with fart-canned civics for annoying other people. I have no doubt that it will sound a little mean and edgy, but this is a DD and I don't want my neighbors to secretly plot my demise when I leave every morning at 6:30am for class. My saving grace is that my nearest neighbor is a major petrolhead. He absolutely loves to see me working on the car and said he didn't mind the currently noisy cold starts (Injen intake is NOT quiet outside the cabin. Inside the cabin, it's not any louder decibel-wise than stock). So I don't know what to do on the exhaust side of things. I'd like to keep the car a bit low-key but also have nice flow. Where the cats were (under pass. seat) I may do an x-pipe to try and alter exhaust harmonics and move the frequencies away from resonating freq.'s of the cabin.
Now for the confusing part of the update.
Two days ago I installed an LC-1 and wired it into the ECU, then re-flashed my ECU from EU2 to US. The flash triggered an insta-CEL since I could not reach any lambda probes with my ratchet sets due to the AWD subframe so all I did was do the wiring for the controller (sensor grounds to body ground, engine-side signal wires soldered to LC-1 yellow output, LC-1 sensor ground and heater ground to body ground, LC-1 power to accessory wire) and left the post-cat O2 sensors in their bungs and their heater wires connected so I wouldn't get heater faults. After the flash, I looked at all the sensors in INPA and all the parameters while it was idling (idles at 696rpm in neutral) so I KNOW it's looking for post-cat O2s. In fact, in INPA the post-cat O2 sensors were showing a voltage so the LC-1 is definitely outputting volts even though its lambda probe is sitting right here next to me as I type. NOTE: I HAVE NOT told the LC-1 what volts to output. It is at 100% default settings. Anyway that was all good and the car was idling smoothly so I drove to school yesterday for class and a test, then drove home, then went to Wal-Mart to get oil for my grandma's car since she and my mom are on a trip and she pays me to maintain it.
Then the CEL went out.
I don't know what to make of that. My car is running a US tune, it is monitoring for the presence of catalytic converters, and it is perfectly happy with whatever the LC-1 is telling it without a lambda probe attached. It's like everything I know about everything is wrong.
It matters to me because I ordered a custom vent gauge from Niel at VEI systems that displays AFR and boost. Props to Niel, seriously. He sold me EVERYTHING I needed minus some wire and a wideband controller and O2 for $165 shipped. And that's for the more-precise boost sender, too. The normal sender that reads boost to one tenth of a PSI was $15 less. So seriously, if you need gauges, VEI systems. They even worked late on the night of the 4th to build my gauge before Thursday since they had it off. This meant I got the gauge much earlier. He provided good directions, answered every question, and even replied to my odd-hours emails. I cannot say enough good things about Niel and VEI. To sweeten everything: the custom PCB from Niel has light detection. I don't mean ambient light detection, either. I mean if you connect it to pin 34 or 35 on your LSZ (headlight 12v) then it will dim itself when your lights come on.
Tchleung has this thread regarding his use of the gauge, and frankly it looks fantastic. Here is a pic taken from his thread.
Speaking of that gauge, expect pics and hopefully some detailed ones at that. I have a slick button cluster setup I'm working on that fills-in the ash tray and SHOULD leave room for a stealthed radar detector remote display since I will most likely need one. The long and short of it is: I think the LC-1 default LED and button look hideous. If I put them in the engine bay, I know I'll be too lazy to use them regularly. So I bought two momentary switches like the one below but in red (amber was too many volts and nobody had it in stock so I would have had to order 20.... at $11 apiece).
The illumination for the momentary switch for the gauge (so I can program the gauge, but when running press the button to display peak boost and reset monitoring for peak) will be powered by the ashtray LED contacts since the ashtray will be covered by tinted plexi. The LC-1 recalibration switch LED will be powered by the LC-1. What this means is that when I start the car, as the LC-1 warms up the switch's ring will slowly pulse/blink until the LC-1 is up to heat. Once it's up to heat it will stay illuminated just like the gauge momentary switch. I also got a low-profile rocker switch with a red LED that shows through a diffuse bar. This switch will be to turn the gauge display on and off just in case I get pulled over. Generally when you get pulled over and the officer sees a .75" digital display with "A/F" and "PSI", your insurance goes up. Me being a young caucasian male doesn't help. The LED in it uses a 12V input so I can tie the LED + and - with the gauge + and - so that the switch is lit when the gauge is on, dark when it's off. And if the red switches annoy me, I have measured heights of everything so I can just close the ash tray cover.
I'll try to update this again tonight (this time with pics) if I make more progress, but I do have some assignments due by midnight. Sorry I'm long on words and short on pics.
Sadly I won't be doing the install, but at least I know that everything fits in the trunk?
|07-14-2012, 07:56 PM||#8|
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Blaine, WA
My Ride: 2000 323Ci
Definitely in to see this progress. Thanks for the link
|07-14-2012, 08:17 PM||#9|
I made progress with the gauge. After extending most of the wires with wires of like gauge, I got some things hooked up for proof of concept!
Brown gauge -> brown Analog 2 of LC-1
Yellow Gauge -> momentary switch (not hooked up) to display peak boost and configure the gauge settings
red gauge -> accessory wire
black gauge -> ECU grounding strap
green gauge -> headlight out (12v signal dims the gauge) (note, headlights are thick blue and yellow, and whatever other super thick wire is next to it.)
Then I stuck it to the crossmember behind the dash since it was convenient.
Witness the mess!
Due to the nature of the space, I had to use the flash.
Here you can see how the gauge's wire can make it to the headlight wire. I used a tap so if it's too dim behind the tinted plexi I can unplug it and have full brightness.
I didn't use the flash and the photo was horribly underexposed. This is after adjusting the exposure slider in Lightroom all the way to the right. The Pentax K-5 does have glorious dynamic range.
I also ran the vacuum tube to a whopping nothing. Since the S/C goes in in three days, no sense throwing money at a t-fitting to fit the FPR that I'll never use again.
Since this build log is for an AUTO 325xi I felt it was fine to use the clutch slave hole that BMW practically handed me on a silver platter for this install. It also let me snake the wiring directly into the ECU box without fuss.
This resulted in a nice and tidy looking ECu-bin in the engine bay. No, those are not leaves from the fall in the fender gutter. That's crap that has dropped in the past month. Sycamores and some Swiss decorative tree I can't recall the name of. A nightmare.
You can't see it in that photo, but the LC-1 is also COMPLETELY integrated into the ECU box. Programming heads and everything run in and are hidden away so I don't have rainbow wiring everywhere. You can see them snaking in here through the main grommet.
Once all of that fun stuff had been dealt with I zeroed the boost and put ignition to position 2. Note that 7.4 is the default AFR output of the LC-1 when no lambda is connected (I have no lambda connected), interestingly, the car seems completely happy with this signal at all speeds for the post-cat O2 sensors.
Please note the display in person id much brighter than the photos would have you believe. The intensity of the readings rivals the intensity of AFR/PSI shown in the photos.
Last edited by deadwood83; 07-14-2012 at 08:18 PM.
|07-18-2012, 08:06 PM||#10|
Well, just a mini update. Dynos (at least before) are not happening. Ta-da! I dropped the car off with my mechanic today and next-dayed my ECU to Active. Since I have transmission work scheduled (IPT valve body, either ESS software or the piggyback for the GM5L40E that a dude in Germany makes) I listed it on the performance mods section of the ECU send-in form. I'd rather just have Active flash a tune without the boost turned down to accommodate autos than get my trans beefy shortly and need a new tune.
Meth and NO2 are suddenly possibilities. My mech and I discussed the possibility of a small NO2 shot in the lowish band (2k-4k) using a controller that tapers off while boost builds. The NO2 will help cool the intake charge as well. When the NO2 tapers we're thinking have H2O/meth injection slowly build to keep the charge cool. Also right now the car has 0W40 in it which has been nice for removing some varnish that the Castrol likes to leave. I'm thinking I'll do an 80-mile loop on the freeway at ~70mph to break-in the supercharger and shortly beforehand add some Amsoil engine flush then the next day change the 0w40 for Rotella T6 5w40 since we don't usually see below 25F and we DO regularly see 100+.
|07-20-2012, 10:09 AM||#11|
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: West Chester, PA
My Ride: slow and sorta low
Looks like you have quite the project going on. I am looking to supercharge my xi at some point but I dont know about the transfer case holding up to the power. Im just worried about running into all sorts of drivetrain problems caused by the added power. Do you have any plans on building the transfer case? I will be following your build and am looking forward to seeing the progression
|07-20-2012, 11:29 AM||#12|
Luckily the E46 isnt the only car with this transfer case, and New Ventures has their own spec sheet that they were willing to release once upon a time.
With proper fluid changes, the transfer case is probably THE single strongest piece of the xi drivetrain.
You can find the document posted here: http://www.denalitrucks.com/document...20NV149AWD.htm
I'm also not too worried about the axles. The axles, I feel, can take a lot of beating. The axles boots are the failure point there. I have two sets of axles though so if I can catch torn boots early (I always have in the past) I just put the other axles on with new circlips , clean out the old boots and bearings then repack with new boots and grease.
The only part I do worry about is the front differential. It'll handle 300awhp as long as you don't launch/suddenly dump power into it. But if you get too ballsy it may decide to give up.
|07-28-2012, 08:08 PM||#13|
Still no car. I hate not having it for several reasons:
1. I don't have my car.
2. It gives me time to think.
3. I tend to research and buy things when my car isn't around.
I bought some gloss white 3m 1080 for my roof rails. Bought it sight unseen after I could find no clear consensus between antique white and eggshell white. I thing the 1080 gloss white fits perfectly between the two, and therefore should work well. The seller also sent me various samples of different scotchprint finishes. I might be in love with the brushed steel. I just can't decide how it would look with the natural brown.
I also have a meth kit on standby for a couple weeks after I have the car back.
|07-29-2012, 01:17 PM||#14|
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Oregon Coast
My Ride: '02 330 XI Auto
Cool project. Wish I had the time/money to do something like this.
If you want to make your pictures brighter without messing with your camera settings, use a trouble light:
|08-09-2012, 01:05 PM||#15|
Garage cleaned out
Shop lighting installed
Got the car yesterday
Drove like a grandma for 65 miles
Drove twisty canyons for the next ~95 miles
Changed oil to Rotella T6 since UOAs on M54s were the same as or better than LL-01 oils and it makes the valvetrain quieter. I substituted one quart of oil for 1 quart of Redline D4 just to remove any possible varnish. The top end is just a bright honeyed yellow, but I cannot inspect the pan. My tech offered to do work on the side and made an offer. He will install any oil pump and pickup I want for $800 flat. That's a helluva deal since the AWD means to drop the pan you drop the FCA's, axles, subframe, sway, etc. He also said the shop was incredibly irritated that my car was on the lift for so long and there's more he wants to do with the S/C, possibly pro-bono since he, like myself, is OCD about the work he does.
WOT runs revealed peak boost of 6psi and AFR at WOT of 9-10, which seems rather rich. Idle and decel are perfect in smoothness with zero codes and no knocking. Though admittedly my mech hooked me up with quart bottles of the octane booster he uses for racing, and a 5ml sample of that mixed with 91 pump (all we have available at 4500ft) sent to my friend at the University had an effective octane of ~97.
The piping is rather elaborate, and I have no doubt that some of my pressure loss can be attributed to that along with catless headers. At idle, the ECU seems to try and get the AFR to approach stoich since it bounces between 13.5 and 13.9 with the 90mm pulley. I haven't tried the 85mm, but I have zero doubt that it will go on today or tomorrow. I'll also probably bump the LC-1 volts to .750 at 18:1 since the car IS running quite rich (12-13 at light load, 9 WOT, 13.5-13.9 zero load) and I have a meth kit on order.
Purchased the AEM 1 gallon injection kit yesterday along with an extra check valve and filter plus tee plus 90 degree elbow plus 90cc/min injector for the pre-compressor injection. I got two aluminum bungs from Summit and found three shops in the area that do aluminum welding. Since I don't have the CD changer and my Dynavin has ipod integration, I plan to mount the tank and pump where the cd changer goes, wire the controller under the steering column, put the indicator LED next to my gauges in the vent, and the kill switch in the coin tray under the armrest.
I'm getting the Dinan transmission software is about 1.5 hours from right now.
I don't have any pics of the engine bay since it is a COMPLETE mess right now. But I do want a before and after for what I do to it. It looks incredibly incomplete because the shop basically told my mechanic to have it finished yesterday or get no other jobs on the side while he thinks through problems.
I also have the white vinyl for the roof rails, I think it will really tie the body together.
And with the white 1080 came a sample of 1080 brushed steel vinyl. I have a strong, strong urge to wrap my wood in brushed steel. But I do love my wood. I can't decide! D:
And a teaser from last night:
|08-09-2012, 08:29 PM||#16|
Oh man two updates in one day. I just got back from the Dinan dealer. My car is in limp mode, 5 minutes of battery terminals together doesn't help, and the Dinan dealer and Dinan tried to say my ECU was garbage. Funny, because it went into their shop with nary an error code nor warning light and worked flawlessly both on the 250-miles I drove yesterday and on the way down to the shop.
I'm not sure if it messed with the AA tune or not. My gut instinct is no since my AFRs in limp mode were similar to before, but I emailed Viral to ask his opinion just to cover all my bases.
ETA: the level of amateur hour at that shop was astounding. The level of amateur hour on the part of Dinan was also astounding. The fix took less than 15 minutes.
-Go to bmwfans and look at ZUSB of latest trans control unit for my production date
-Clear all adaptations in INPA
-Enter that ZUSB in winkfp
-Enter my vin
-Hit the 'Program' button. Wait.
They spent 3.5 hours and tried to get me to pay them for diagnostics and tried to tell me that my ECU was bad, then got snippy and basically said that AA software was responsible and that I have no idea how an E46 works nor how to flash control units and that I wasn't listening to them.
By the way, anyone in the Salt Lake County area, avoid Independent Import at all costs. They were nice enough to refund me (only with Dinan's approval, even though they proved incapable of flashing an EGS with a simple, prepackaged tune) but seriously, I cannot recommend a shop that has no idea what they're doing. Dinan retailer means nothing. I asked AA some noob questions and they (Andrew, Viral, and Nick, and Craig sent me the pdf for pre-install browsing) were very helpful. The folks at Independent Import were kind and helpful until I asked them to do it again, at which point they chose to creatively interpret what I said, talk me down, insinuate that I knew nothing about E46s, and tried to say my ECU was bad. I mean come-on. Amateur. Hour.
If you think I'm just being a mega-douche about this chew on this fact. They tried to clear the adaptations while the engine was running.
Last edited by deadwood83; 08-10-2012 at 02:36 AM.
|08-10-2012, 03:38 PM||#18|
Y'all say you want pics, so I am here to deliver. When I get under the car this afternoon I'll try to get pics of the intercooler return piping. It's incredibly tight. I made a video from the top in the meantime.
The intercooler in an Mtech bumper is simply gorgeous. There was no trimming, no fitment issues, nothing. As far as IC and S/C oil cooler go, it was pretty smooth sailing.
Of course, part of the reason it went so well could be because my tech looked at the brackets supplied with the kit and laughed.
The piping, as expected, is where things got tricky. Due to the space limitations imposed by the front subframe/swaybar and trans heat exchanger, the normal piping wouldn't fit. I mean space is pretty much zero.
So instead, he used the S/C output in an interesting way. The output wraps around the front bumper support beam on the outside and meets the intercooler with the 90* elbow pointed up and towards the driver side fender. This confused me, as it meant the filter would no longer fit. Luckily, he was on top of this. Using some creativity, he plumbed the filter just behind the front brake duct sort of. It is slightly exposed to a 'crosswind' of sorts, but if I can find another filter with a slightly more aggressive offset, the brake duct should fit back in with some trimming, hiding the filter from the outside world. Of course, this also means hiding the filter from fresh, cool air. I may leave some hole in the ducting to supply it with at least some cool air.
You can sort-of see the compressor output behind the larger inlet piping.
I had to artificially 'enhance' this image so you could see the S/C output into the intercooler, and the somewhat exposed filter.
When people say that space is tight.... they mean it.
I need to move the S/C traction fluid filter lower and behind the intake manifold as well as play around with hiding the LC-1 and wiring. One downside to the kit is the longer injectors. They are necessary, but they make the engine cover not fit quite right.
With the kit, the distributor is mostly useless. My tech wants to use the spots for nitrous. I Have feelings on the matter that I haven't quite resolved yet. I'm not sure if I could get small enough (small in power, not physical size) foggers, for one.
I'm not sure what exactly AA's kit shoots for in terms of AFR at idle. If the vac number seems low to you, remember I'm at 4500ft elevation.
Now for a few INPA screenies for the tune. I cleared adaptations when I had to redo the trans software, and I've kept it below 3k revs since clearing adaptations and plan to basically treat the cleared adaptations as a new break-in period. In no particular order:
INPA is sort of derpy. Some of the readings in Celsius I believe are actually the numbers for Fahrenheit.
I have a lot of fluid changing and engine bay detailing left to do. The engine bay got 4x dirtier than when I dropped it off because the street right outside the shop is being completely redone.
|08-13-2012, 01:49 PM||#19|
Tidied the engine bay a little. Still need to clean it, but that will happen when I replace all the shady worm clamps with t-bolt clamps.
I also made all the brake ducting and underbody panels fit! Granted, the driver's brake duct is mostly ceremonial with how much I had to chop it up. The engine splash shield is also rather tight since I have yet to trim it for the piping. While under there, I discovered something interesting. The passenger side front axle is weeping a little from the diff seal. This is upsetting, but I have an appointment to get it fixed. I don't have the heart to do that mess again for another year or so. Emissions get tested Wednesday so we'll see how the LC-1 is working. No dash lights.
Oh, and I found a module I forgot to clear after the shop botched absolutely everything! Limping a car home for ~40 miles is rough on you and the car. It just feels bad. It also generates a buttload of codes.
|08-14-2012, 12:32 PM||#20|
Pretty much always working on the car. It's a perpetual thing.
Today I'm dumping the oil I put in about 500 miles ago. I substituted 1 quart of oil with 1 quart of Redline D4 ATF for the extra detergents. But then when I peeked inside the engine, I realized that wasn't super necessary.
So today I want to drain all that out, even though 1/6th of the oil being D4 ATF probably brings the Rotella T6 viscosity more in-line with the BMW recommended spec.
Also, in case nobody believed me, the brake duct really is super ceremonial. I mean, nothing comes out of there.... except a nice whooshing sound and a little growl and whistle.
Unfortunately the vinyl I ordered for the roof rails does not match. So what do i do with it? I make stickers. Why you ask? Why not?
I also relayed my experience at the shop to Dinan. After inspection and emissions tomorrow, and hopefully the axle/diff seal replaced under warranty, I will be sending out my EGS to Cali-for-nie-eh.
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