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Old 03-01-2015, 10:03 PM   #1
bietau85
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Northern Illinois
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My Ride: 2005 325i 210k auto
Exclamation EML driving me nuts.

Ex forum troll, now member,...as i need to reach out for some guidance. My 2005 325i with 210k auto 2.5L has been a a great car the last 2 years with just general maintenance needed. Recently i went to pass an individual who didnt know how to drive and my worst dream happened,... as i was passing i hit 75mph and the car lit up the eml, traction control and yellow brake light and embarassingly enough i stalled on side of road and restarted car and on i went as if nothing happened. I just drove normal and it didnt get buggy. Dsc didnt light up unlike some other threads i read up on earlier. And when i press my dsc button and hold it nothing happens. Only when i floor the car does it do this eml stallout. Now usually when i restart car all lights go off. Now the traction (!) And yellow brake light stay on when i start the car. Car vibrates badly at idle until its fully warmed up. I noticed also one day that my temp gauge went to 3/4 and then dropped to normal and stayed normal after that for the next 30 miles of that trip. Then yesterday the car warmed up yet i noticed the heat hadnt kicked on yet ( mind you its -5f) the gauge went from half down to the quarter mark as if it wasnt warmed up and then the heat came on 2 minutes later when it reached halfway like normal. I ran torque app on it and i came up with lean codes, a evap closed loop, and the maf unsustainable code i believe it was. Maf gauge was saying 6.7g/s at idle. I intend to get laser temp gauge tomorrow to check the cags for blockage but it doesnt makes sense to me, ive never had a plugged cat in other crap cars with original equipment still. My gas mileage is now only 20-21 mpg compared to 25-27 and i reset the dash to confirm crap mpg. Any bit of guidance on where to go would be great.

On a side note, in june i got the COG symbol on my trans display, but the dealer said they dont fix trans parts and to give em 6k for a new one. I think 5th gear was not engaging from what i would feel until i took foot off gas and let it shift. I drained out 1.75 quarts of trans fluid which had great color for 200k miles. I then added the same amount i took out with lucas trans oil and it drove awesome, til now. I haven't got the cog light since the lucas but i dont want to leave any info out in diagnosing this, i hope its irrelevant.

Codes thrown = p0444 p0174 p0171 p16a7

Last edited by bietau85; 03-01-2015 at 10:03 PM.
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Old 03-01-2015, 11:30 PM   #2
cityjohn
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Sorry to hear. I've had similar things that sort of corrected themselves but I know you'll get the answer here.

Meanwhile....
A pirate walks into a bar, he's got a parrot on his shoulder and a steering wheel sticking out of his pants. The bartender sees him and asks, "Hey, what's that steering wheel doing there?" The pirate says, "Aaarrrr, it's been driving me nuts."
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Old 03-02-2015, 01:00 AM   #3
bietau85
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My Ride: 2005 325i 210k auto
I wish itd correct itself, i didnt have issues until the weather got under 10f but the way it almost seems unreliable has me concerned. I just had a no start issue and lean condition not too long ago. My intake pipe was cracked underneath rather bad but ran like new to me when it was fixed and now things are deteriorating to an all new level. Upsets me with all the new parts ive dumped into it for preventative maintenance, new clutch for fan, new waterpump and tstat, new belts, new tensioner pulleys, new plugs wires and coils, new radiator. Im sure i have a crap sensor thats a needle in a haystack to figure out. Unless when i scan my cats and the temp is way high. I doubt its the cats as this all happened at once and i have lean codes on both banks which if i recall each bank had its own cat.
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Old 03-02-2015, 03:42 AM   #4
cityjohn
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Looks like there are two cats
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...42&hg=18&fg=10
You don't have a SULEV do you?
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Old 03-02-2015, 04:27 AM   #5
BaliDawg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cityjohn View Post
Sorry to hear. I've had similar things that sort of corrected themselves but I know you'll get the answer here.

Meanwhile....
A pirate walks into a bar, he's got a parrot on his shoulder and a steering wheel sticking out of his pants. The bartender sees him and asks, "Hey, what's that steering wheel doing there?" The pirate says, "Aaarrrr, it's been driving me nuts."
Meanwhile....
How did the hipster's mouth get burned? Because he ate the soup before it was cool.
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///Mmmmmm...
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Old 03-02-2015, 07:57 AM   #6
jfoj
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Not sure where to start here, hard to follow all the issues.

1. Need FreezeFrame and warm idle Fuel Trim info.

2. Car probably needs at least a fuel pump as a PM IMHO.

3. If you think the cats are clogged, buy an exhaust back pressure tester for about $40 and measure the back pressure, an IR thermometer can be very misleading as a test.

4. You have these codes - p0444 p0174 p0171 p16a7

P0444 is almost always a bad Evap solenoid under the intake, but it is not likely the source of your current problems. This can probably be ignored for now.

P0171/P0174 are Lean codes, need to know if these are popping at idle or while cruising. Freeze Frame data may answer this question, or monitor Fuel Trims at both warm idle and steady highway cruise and report back.

P16A7 is somewhat a mystery to most. Not sure if there is a clear definition or cause of this specific code, but it appears to be MAF related. One comment on your MAF reading at idle, seems a bit high IMHO. Most of these engines have an idle MAF reading in 3.5-5 Grams/Sec range that I have seen.

Not sure of the MAF history on the car, it is original or has it been replaced recently? There are a LOT of Asian counterfeit MAF's on the market. Most MAF's deteriorate and UNDER report the airflow, not OVER report the airflow. If your MAF is OVER reporting the airflow, then this could be the cause of the Lean codes, but the MAF can behave very differently at idle and under load.

Logging with Torque Pro can identify bad catalytic converters and also make sure the Engine Load does not easily exceed 100% because this usually indicates a MAF that is over reporting the airflow.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose fan switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 03-02-2015, 03:50 PM   #7
bietau85
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My Ride: 2005 325i 210k auto
Didnt try to bombard with so many symptoms but i didnt want to leave anything out. I cleared codes and then went for 10 miles round trip. Only code that came back was the p0444 again. I took a few freeze frame one is idle one is a the vehicle in park holding steady rev for 30 seconds. And the other is 75mph. Maf never went over 5 even when first started this time. If im missing any info let me know, il grab it up.
In order from left to right = 75mph hamming it, warm idle, steady rev, 55mph steady cruise
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Last edited by bietau85; 03-02-2015 at 04:11 PM.
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Old 03-02-2015, 11:31 PM   #8
bietau85
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Also jfoj, after clearing codes and not getting a bad sensor thrown at me, the traction (!) And yellow brake light stay on as soon as car is started. I did a little reading up on that and saw numerous posts about an alignment cleared it. I'll be honest but i recently hit some bad railroad tracks at a good amount of speed (was doing 55 when i shoulda done 5mph apparently) there wasnt signage saying it was a crap crossing like the ones around me typically and left my steering wheel sitting while driving straight inbetween 1030 and 1100 oclockish. Shortly thereafter i got those lights to stay on ( ! And yellow brake) while still being able to drive unlike when the eml light would kick on and shut me down till restart with those lights also popping on along with the eml. Im inches from just going and trading this in for an m3. I just know im gonna lose out my rear though and thats why im stuck not going yet.
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Old 03-03-2015, 10:14 PM   #9
bietau85
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So i tinkered around vehicle today a bit. I actually think ive figured this all out. Last time i ran torque pro app my throttle was showing response. Today i was just sitting in there with everything off so its quiet and i hear a pulsing vibration slightly at idle. I raise the rpms up and get a lil stronger of a pulsing vibration raise up to 1800 rpm steady next.....Pulsing stops but motor sounds groggy a tiny tiny bit but nothing that i would notice if i wasnt looking for it. As im looking at my HUD with all my gauges (running torque) i notice my throttle gauge is reading what it does normally at idle at 850 rpms and i was doing 1800. And that was 10.6-10.7....no matter how much i floored it it didn't change... is this a sign that my TPS is bad? Since the throttle was reading good on my last run yesterday, is it possible that its a intermittent failure? The only code i have still is just the evap circuit is showing fixed open still. So thats my confusion. Any assurance on the diagnoses? I think my traction lights and yellow brake is another issue with a wheel sensor i will deal with tomorrow, im hoping thats what it is.

Last edited by bietau85; 03-03-2015 at 10:17 PM.
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Old 03-03-2015, 11:16 PM   #10
323i jlviii
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I'm sure the traction and yellow brake is the 55mph railroad crossing. I could see how you might lose a wheel sensor or the connection to one. Hopefully it's an easy fix -
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Old 03-03-2015, 11:22 PM   #11
bietau85
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Yea, thats what im doing tomorrow, cleaning sensors and checking wires. Read up on the cleaning and checking of the wheel sensors.
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