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Old 08-21-2012, 11:38 PM   #221
babinski46
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This will actually be my first DIY on my new to me 99 328i. Getting some other work done on her right now at a shop. Apparently one side was done before I purchased but not the actual pump. Mechanic tried to charge me 314.00 for the pump and two hours of labor. Seems simple enough with all of the DIY guides out there.
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Old 08-21-2012, 11:43 PM   #222
MJLavelle
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For those of you who are not big on replacing a part that seems to be working perfectly well, there is an alternative. I simply bought a pump, gasket, and relay, and left them in my trunk, along with the tools needed to replace the pump. I also made sure to read a few DIY's and Videos, as well as removing my back seat to have a look around, to make sure I was familiar with everything. Make sure you know how to remove the wire harness connector. I also sprayed down the locking ring with PB Blaster, after trying to loosen it and finding out it was stuck.
So, all of those items have been in my trunk, and honestly I was going to try to replace it before it died, but never found the time. So, I figured having it with me was the next best thing. After riding in my trunk for 4 months, it finally died on me last Sunday. Fortunately, I was able to get the old one out, and the new one in. It only set me back about 30 mins.
If you are going to go this route, I reccomend you have these items in your trunk, along with the pump and gasket:
-You can get by with a 1/4in socket wrench, and a 10mm socket + the other socket mentioned below. Nut drivers are fine too.
-Small hose clamp for the fuel line, and a socket that fits it (most of them are standard sized, not metric)
-A large pair of diagonal cutters, to remove the old hose clamp.
-A heavy flathead screwdriver or a drift, and a dead blow hammer (any moderately heavy hammer will work) to remove the locking ring.
-A smaller flathead screwdriver, to help get the fuel line off.
-A small pincher type hose clamp, to close off the fuel line, so it is not so messy.
-1 or 2 heavy garbage bags, to put the old fuel pump in, once it is removed.
-Spray down the large sealing ring with PB Blaster.

Like I said, I intended to just replace my pump, but I have not been able to get to it. So, the supplies were in the trunk, just in case it died on me, which it did.
One thing I noticed when I stopped to get gas after installing the new pump, was the sound of air either flowing in or out when the gas cap was released. I had not ever heard that in the 3 years I owned the car. I did not realize BMW's did that. I would guess that my pump has been running at reduced capacity for the entire time I have owned it. I do know that I have had constant idle issues since I bought the car, and they all went away when I replaced my fuel filter 4 months ago. It was original, with 120k on the car. BTW - my car is a 2001, so I got a decent life span from that fuel pump and filter.
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Old 08-22-2012, 06:54 AM   #223
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MJ,

Thanks for that story!!! A spare pump in the trunk is like a spare tire. When you get a flat tire, you are stuck, same situation with the fuel pump. Glad you were prepared. Too bad the cooling system is not as quick and easy to refresh on the side of the road! But it still might be worth having all the cooling system parts in the trunk as well? MANGO are you listening??

Since Fall is upon us, I urge anyone sitting on the fence to get the pump replaced before Winter sets in. I had 2 pumps I had to change last Winter the same week which was the coldest week of the season. Yes, cold weather also causes pumps to give out when everything contracts and the brushes fail to contact the armature and/or the bushings get tight.

I assume you would have rather changed your pump on your schedule, but at least you had it with you. I think I even mentioned it would be wise to have a spare in the car in my post.

I see you have a 2001, I know there has been speculation that maybe the 2001 and earlier were not as problematic, but maybe it is just the luck of the draw? Maybe there were different suppliers of pumps. Might be helpful if people put the pump manufacturer and date code up as well if this info in on the pump.

Also let us know if there are any other improvements in the performance of the car. Many claim they have better throttle response after pump replacement.

I just had a PM from someone that had a soft fail and ended up running out of fuel with 1/4 tank on the gauge. Again, more soft failures.
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Last edited by jfoj; 08-22-2012 at 07:12 AM.
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Old 08-22-2012, 07:01 AM   #224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MJLavelle View Post
I was wondering about The recent price increases in battery prices. I paid $85 or $90 for the Autozone Battery for the e46 about 3 years ago. They are in the $130 - $160+ range now. Apparently lead prices have gotten very volatile lately, and are increasing daily.

Edit: the original link was blocked for some reason, so try this one. The next to last paragraph mentions rising lead costs:
http://www.car-batteryprices.com/tag...-costs-rising/
Unfortunately anything using precious metals or things other than steel & aluminum are all tied directly to the price of gold.

So lead, copper, platinum and other more valuable metals are all tied to a direct rise in the price of gold.

So things like batteries, copper radiators, copper wiring, copper pipe & fittings, motors with copper wiring, alternators, catalytic converters and other things all go up in prices when gold increases.

There are other reasons things may increase in price, but the raw materials that are tied to the price of gold are part of the process.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose fan switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 08-26-2012, 01:33 PM   #225
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JFOJ...

I replaced my fuel pump about 1 year ago - 6,000ish mi, and about 30mins to and 30mins home from work 5 days a week and not much other driving

but still I have been stalling at random points over the past 2 months. Could the pump be bad already or bad since I got it? Or is something clogged or is it something totally unrealated?

I have stalled at idle, while driving 30 or less mphs, while clutching, with clutch all the way down at a stop about to pull out of parking spot, with clutch down when at a stop and about ot go into reverse to park... it has been very random and about 10 - 20 times total ove rthe past 2 months.

not sure if anything else was replaced when my shop did the pump, so filter may be old and clogged.

I see u have a lot of posts about idle, stalls and stuff so I figure u may have an answer of some sort for me...


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Old 08-27-2012, 10:45 AM   #226
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My pump died yesterday! new pump on order... The funny thing is I read this thread a few weeks ago and wondered if I should replace my pump proactively. I'm at 171K miles.

Right at 1/4 tank too.
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Old 08-27-2012, 10:49 AM   #227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epistaxis2008 View Post
JFOJ...

I replaced my fuel pump about 1 year ago - 6,000ish mi, and about 30mins to and 30mins home from work 5 days a week and not much other driving

but still I have been stalling at random points over the past 2 months. Could the pump be bad already or bad since I got it? Or is something clogged or is it something totally unrealated?

I have stalled at idle, while driving 30 or less mphs, while clutching, with clutch all the way down at a stop about to pull out of parking spot, with clutch down when at a stop and about ot go into reverse to park... it has been very random and about 10 - 20 times total ove rthe past 2 months.

not sure if anything else was replaced when my shop did the pump, so filter may be old and clogged.

I see u have a lot of posts about idle, stalls and stuff so I figure u may have an answer of some sort for me...


thnxxx
make sure your vacuum and electrical systems are addressed. first start with maintenance because it needs to be done anyway then see if there's any codes.
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Old 08-27-2012, 01:45 PM   #228
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Yep mine soft failed and I drove it for a month and just replaced it. Im at 159,XXX
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Old 08-28-2012, 10:11 PM   #229
davidwarren
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidwarren View Post
My pump died yesterday! new pump on order... The funny thing is I read this thread a few weeks ago and wondered if I should replace my pump proactively. I'm at 171K miles.

Right at 1/4 tank too.
replaced it in about 25 minutes. Good to go!
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Old 08-30-2012, 07:35 PM   #230
epistaxis2008
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are the fuel pump and dtml pump the same... is it one pump which send fuel between the two tanks sections and another that sends the gas to the engine or is it just one pump?

my pump which was replaced last year was the one that game me a 1444 and 1445 code for bad signal to the dtml
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Old 08-30-2012, 08:25 PM   #231
davidwarren
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epistaxis2008 View Post
are the fuel pump and dtml pump the same... is it one pump which send fuel between the two tanks sections and another that sends the gas to the engine or is it just one pump?

my pump which was replaced last year was the one that game me a 1444 and 1445 code for bad signal to the dtml
the one that goes side to side is called the “sucking jet pump,” the actual fuel pump is called the “delivery unit.”

The dtml pump is part of the emissions control system that will pressurize the fuel tank to check for leaks.
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Old 08-30-2012, 09:44 PM   #232
epistaxis2008
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Mango, will I get codes without a CEL, I have only checked codes in the past when the CEL came on and told me to check my engine...
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Old 08-31-2012, 08:03 PM   #233
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So I started up my car today for the first time in a few weeks, and it was the roughest start I have ever had owning this car. The car made a really loud, really deep exhaust note that backfired and popped occasionally for the first couple of minutes. As the car approached normal idle the car was still running a little rough. RPMs were quivering and the car felt like it was going to stall but didn't. The SES light came on when the car got a little warmer.

Took it for a drive and after about 15 minutes of driving and giving it a lot of gas the car finally started driving smoother and was more responsive. The SES light went away and the car stopped sounding like a tractor.

Could this be fuel pump/fuel filter related? I've got the parts and I'm waiting to get rid of some gas before I install, just wondering if it could be related.
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Old 09-01-2012, 10:28 AM   #234
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Could be the fuel pump, could be a DISA issue, could be a camshaft position sensor, kind of hard to tell.

You should pull codes and see what you have even if CEL is out.

Anything below 3/4 tank should be fine for pump replacement. The lower the better, but at 3/4 you should have not leakage when pulling the pump.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose fan switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 09-01-2012, 10:40 AM   #235
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I've noticed something strange since I replaced my fuel pump. The other day I pulled into Shell with the gas light on (something I avoid at all costs) and I noticed, while sitting in the car as the gas was pumping I could hear a slight knocking or thumping noise from the back seat. I assume it's just pressure changing in the tank as fuel flows in, but I could be mistaken. Any ideas?
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Old 09-01-2012, 11:49 AM   #236
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I see. It only happens when the car is parked for more than 4 days where it has a rough start/first 10-15 minutes. The longer it isn't driven the more rough the start is. Does that eliminate anything?
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Old 09-01-2012, 12:03 PM   #237
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Kald,

Sounds like a classic DISA O-ring issue. Check the fist link below in my signature. Also check the CCV lower oil return line as well.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose fan switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299

Last edited by jfoj; 09-01-2012 at 12:04 PM.
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Old 09-01-2012, 12:33 PM   #238
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Kald,

Sounds like a classic DISA O-ring issue. Check the fist link below in my signature. Also check the CCV lower oil return line as well.
I'll check it out. Thanks for the help!
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Old 09-01-2012, 08:43 PM   #239
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My 2003 330Ci would start and go in reverse but once I put it in drive it would stall and shut off. Finally got it to go after applying the gas while in park. I was at 1/4 tank. I called my usual parts guy and he said that it is probably just the fuel filter, not the whole pump itself. Since then it has driven fine, just sluggish.
I found this thread so was curious as to whether or not replacing the filter would suffice.
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Old 09-01-2012, 10:23 PM   #240
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Simple check is to review the "Hidden OBC Menu" link below in my signature. If after 1/2 tank of fuel or less the drivers side does not pump to completely empty when on level ground, then you probably need to replace your fuel pump.

Common soft failure on the fuel pump is the car basically running out of fuel at 1/4 tank, fuel will be in the drivers side of the tank and passenger side will be empty.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose fan switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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