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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 04-02-2013, 01:21 PM   #641
Stinger9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCdigger View Post

Anyway, is there a way to tell if the fuel pump has ALREADY been replaced by the original owner?
In my car when I replaced the original fuel pump I had to break a small dab of rubber seal in order to open the fuel pump retaining ring. Look for that seal.
And whether the rubber mat has been cut.
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Old 04-02-2013, 01:34 PM   #642
MJLavelle
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Originally Posted by SCdigger View Post
Hey guys,

I'm afraid my post might get a bit buried in this thread, but the question is an appropriate reply...so, here it goes...

Just purchased first bimmer...2001 325i, 117K, one owner. Terrific shape...this is my first post, so, I'll get newbie pics up soon! Actually, bought for my daughter's 16th birthday...will drive it about 2 miles a day to school with a little extra on the weekend (I plan to get my fair share of seat time in it).

Anyway, is there a way to tell if the fuel pump has ALREADY been replaced by the original owner?

Thanks and I apologize if this is a stupid question....I will be spending quite a bit of time here, and I look forward to it!

Greg
One sure giveaway will be the hose clamp on the fuel hose. The factory clamp is a crimp-on type, which can not be adjusted. It has to be cut off to replace the pump. So, if you see a worm screw adjustable hose clamp on there, then it is likely the pump was changed. It is possible someone used a new crimp-on hose clamp when replacing it, so there are other things to check.
As Scarede46er mentioned, check out the condition of the ring that seals the top of the fuel pump. It should have some nicks and scratches on it from being removed. If it does not, that is another clue that it is original.
But, to expand on that, there are a few other things to look for under there. Check the wiring bundle that runs to the fuel pump connector. It is usually glued down to the ring that seals the fuel pump. If it has been removed, then that is another good sign that it was replaced.
Finally, the top of a new fuel pump is gleaming white, and will stand out against all of the other dirty,dusty stuff under there. If yours is covered in dust, and the white plastic is yellowing, then it is probably original.
If you check all of this, and still are not sure, then post a pic (a good, well lit one please), and we can check it out.
To be honest, I would bet that yours is original. People who don't read the Forums just drive it until it dies, and then they pay $400-800 for a new one that they could have changed for $150.

Edit: Stinger9 posted his comment about the glob of glue while I was typing my answer mentioning the glue on the ring, and holding down the wire harness.
Great minds think alike....

Last edited by MJLavelle; 04-02-2013 at 01:38 PM.
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Old 04-02-2013, 01:45 PM   #643
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Originally Posted by fishb0n3 View Post
i have an issue with my vert 323ci ... i dunno if its related to the fuel pump or not but i think yes.

a couple of weeks ago i started my car and it hesitated to start after i filled it up with gas.
but when i got the car on the D and stepped on the accelerator the car died on me. i started the car again and the same problem happened like 2-3 times and bam the engine service soon light came on for a couple of hours and went back off again.

happened few times with me and the last time happened was yesterday when i tried to start the car and all this happened and i felt like the car is not getting enough gas .. so while i was on P i stepped on the gas and i went up till 5 RPM, and then i stopped , when it got back to 1 RPM the car died , tried it 2-3 times and same problem and the service light is on since then .

i know this is too long but is this related to the fuel pump/filter ?? my car only got 109k miles on it .

any ideas ?
I would put it this way - you are most likely going to need a new fuel pump soon, and you should probably change your fuel filter, because it is probably past due. So, go ahead and change them, and see if the problem returns.
I would advise you to replace the fuel pump and filter, just based on the age and mileage of the car, even if you had no issues. The bonus here is that it may very well cure your problems.
If you had just listed the problems you were having, my advice would be to make sure that your fuel pump and filter were up to date. So, no matter how you look at this, it would be a good idea to go ahead and change them out.
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Old 04-02-2013, 01:46 PM   #644
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Originally Posted by MJLavelle View Post
People who don't read the Forums just drive it until it dies, and then they pay $400-800 for a new one that they could have changed for $150.
I asked my neighbor (who just drives his e46) how many miles on his car. He said 100K miles, so I told him his fuel pump is due. He told me it just failed and he paid $500 for the dealer to put in a new one.

Last edited by Stinger9; 04-02-2013 at 01:47 PM.
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Old 04-02-2013, 01:57 PM   #645
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Classic pay me now, or pay me more later situation.

I plan on changing the fuel pump out in my daughters 2003 VW Beetle soon as well, car only has 78k miles, but for my piece of mind, I do not want her stranded and me having to pay a big bill when I can do it on weekend in the driveway and not have to worry about it ever again.
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Old 04-02-2013, 05:10 PM   #646
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Just did a VERY quick check, and the mat has been cut. Assuming the fuel pump has already been replaced. But will have to check the other clues when I have more time.
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Old 05-01-2013, 11:55 AM   #647
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Would the fuel pump cause an intermittentant starting issue? Cranks, no start?
I've searched the threads and no one seems to have a positive "this fixed my intermittentant crank/no start issue" so I'm not sure where to start.

Had it towed to the dealer, service guy gets in and it starts right up. they can't get it to fail, no codes. on going for a month or so, random.
Fuel is full, filter changed 6k ago.
05 330ci ZHP 172k

Thanks,
Kevin

Last edited by GT4point6; 05-01-2013 at 11:57 AM.
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Old 05-01-2013, 11:58 AM   #648
vypercat
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You may get different advice on this, but at 172k and if you're still on the original pump, I say just replace it yourself. It is a very simple DIY, you don't even jack up the car to do it.

Chris
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Old 05-01-2013, 12:21 PM   #649
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Long story short, yes thats how it starts. Atleast in my case thats how it started and while driving the Car felt like it was running out of gas, usually around the last Qtr. tank. If you havent changed out the fuel pump by now and considering your mileage, I'm sure this is the problem you are having and it's best to pay $150 now before you need another tow and worry about the cooling system next. The fuel pump also did not through any codes.

Last edited by Dido1904; 05-01-2013 at 12:22 PM. Reason: Missing word
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Old 05-01-2013, 01:43 PM   #650
MJLavelle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GT4point6 View Post
Would the fuel pump cause an intermittentant starting issue? Cranks, no start?
I've searched the threads and no one seems to have a positive "this fixed my intermittentant crank/no start issue" so I'm not sure where to start.

Had it towed to the dealer, service guy gets in and it starts right up. they can't get it to fail, no codes. on going for a month or so, random.
Fuel is full, filter changed 6k ago.
05 330ci ZHP 172k

Thanks,
Kevin
If the engine is turning over, but not starting, then it is a strong possibility that it is the fuel pump and/or filter.
Even if this does not fix it, you are past due for a fuel pump. Also, other possible causes will only get more complex and expensive.
So, since they are things that need to be replaced (pump and filter) at this stage in your cars life, it would be an excellent place to start.

Is the "Service Engine Soon" light on? If so, did the dealer read the codes for you, and give you a list? If so, please post it.
But, a lack of a "Service Engine Soon" light does not rule out the fuel pump and filter.
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Old 05-01-2013, 05:28 PM   #651
TitanSilverE46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MJLavelle View Post
If the engine is turning over, but not starting, then it is a strong possibility that it is the fuel pump and/or filter.
Even if this does not fix it, you are past due for a fuel pump. Also, other possible causes will only get more complex and expensive.
So, since they are things that need to be replaced (pump and filter) at this stage in your cars life, it would be an excellent place to start.
While I fully agree with this .... FP is overdue for replacement .... I would like to know from GT4Point6 what the original starting problem sounded like.

Was it cranking with no sign of starting, or was it cranking ... and almost catching but not quite?

If the latter, then it could have been lack of oil pressure in the lifters. The mechanic may well have just held the starter on until the pressure built and the car eventually started.

See the second link under my sig. (I was just about to have my car towed to the dealer too!)

But DO REPLACE the FP now!
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Old 05-01-2013, 06:34 PM   #652
Mpyre
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GT4point6 View Post
Would the fuel pump cause an intermittentant starting issue? Cranks, no start?
I've searched the threads and no one seems to have a positive "this fixed my intermittentant crank/no start issue" so I'm not sure where to start.

Had it towed to the dealer, service guy gets in and it starts right up. they can't get it to fail, no codes. on going for a month or so, random.
Fuel is full, filter changed 6k ago.
05 330ci ZHP 172k

Thanks,
Kevin
Yes this can cause an intermittent no start! As others have pointed out, at 172K you are overdue for a FP. I would just go ahead and put a new one in along with a fresh filter.
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Old 05-01-2013, 07:01 PM   #653
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Who ever said this guy has his original FP?
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:41 AM   #654
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The fuel pump as of 5/16/13 is $126 + gasket $18, or $24 for genuine... which gasket to buy? and what's the possibility of my old one being serviceable? Filter is $53, MAHLE brand...

Can I get a part # for the "F" fitting? "fuel pressure regulator vacuum hoses and the "F" fitting in the lower intake boot..."

Shocks? Not available from them, but listed at $126 pair
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Old 05-16-2013, 11:06 AM   #655
Stinger9
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Originally Posted by CORVAIRWILD View Post
The fuel pump as of 5/16/13 is $126 + gasket $18, or $24 for genuine... which gasket to buy? and what's the possibility of my old one being serviceable? Filter is $53, MAHLE brand...

Can I get a part # for the "F" fitting? "fuel pressure regulator vacuum hoses and the "F" fitting in the lower intake boot..."
If your gasket is as old as a failed pump, best to use a new one.
I would not be too sensitive to the brand of gasket. Have not heard bad things about any of them.

Can use www.realoem.com to look up your F connector.
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Old 05-16-2013, 02:34 PM   #656
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Thx f the tip... Sometimes the replacement is China or Korea junk, the rubber dries out in no time
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Old 05-16-2013, 03:02 PM   #657
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I have reused many of the fuel pump gaskets mainly because I did not have one on hand and have never had an issue with the.

The gasket does not get baked or seem to crack. Might not be a bad idea to replace it, but from what I have seen they tend to be in pretty good shape.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose fan switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 05-16-2013, 04:10 PM   #658
Stinger9
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Thx f the tip... Sometimes the replacement is China or Korea junk, the rubber dries out in no time
You beat me to the punch! I strongly concur you should never use anything from China. They have a real knack for producing crap.
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Old 05-16-2013, 04:49 PM   #659
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Originally Posted by CORVAIRWILD View Post
Can I get a part # for the "F" fitting? "fuel pressure regulator vacuum hoses and the "F" fitting in the lower intake boot..."
Here you go.....

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/13327503677/ES33009/

Realoem can cause some confusion on this part, their picture shows it as an L connector....

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...85&hg=11&fg=45
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Old 05-16-2013, 06:08 PM   #660
Stinger9
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Now I'm confused. The ECT link does go to an F connector, but the realoem link only is an L connector.

Then I tried and couldn't find the F connector on realoem.

But I could also easily find it on http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe..._E095124A.aspx
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