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Old 10-02-2012, 06:05 PM   #141
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wow...stuff just got real. Can't believe Victor Reinz came in and join the discussion. Hope it is real and if it is real I hope it is some tech/engineer person and not some Public Relation/Marketing person.

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Old 10-02-2012, 06:31 PM   #142
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Based on their response, sounds like a marketing person. It's not BMW-specific to apply sealant at corners. Honda, Toyota, MBZ all specify similar application of sealant for their gaskets as well. Must be a fake account/troll
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Old 10-02-2012, 07:51 PM   #143
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Originally Posted by ///MPR77 View Post
Would you ask Sylvania this when they do not supply you with bulb grease?

Would you ask BMW this, or whomever manufactures your brake pads, when they do not supply you with brake pad adhesive?

Not everyone knows about our Halfmoons, his point was clear, as it had to do with the idea of using sealants with rubber gaskets.


Sounds like your setting a trap, just sayin.
It's called brake pad anti squeak lubricant, not adhesive, and yes pads come with it. BMW even has a part number for it. Don't know about the bulb thingy, and don't care.

And yeah, I'm pretty sure VR knows about our half moons. Their gaskets come contoured as such.

My question was not a trap, but if someone with that screen name claims their gasket does not require a sealant, an explanation is needed as to why not.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Stinger9 View Post
Very rarely in car life does any gasket come with sealant. Unless it's some exotic material with special application. I like it that way. Don't want to turn this into a paint by numbers kit.
It is OK if gaskets don't come with sealants. I have my own. That was not the point. See above.


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Old 10-02-2012, 07:59 PM   #144
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So I replaced my VCG 8 months ago, and ever since then I just keep revisiting it trying to resolve the minor oil leak it had. So far I've revisited it 10+ times ! I'm getting really sick of this! This is what I did

Attempt 1: Installed the VCG without using an RTV sealant (Used OEM Reinz Gasket). I Oiled the gasket a bit and tightened the bolts to 10 nm.

Attempt 2: Re-installed, tried to replace rubber seals, but I noticed the ones I got are slightly different then those that were originally on the VCG (the neck of the seals I purchased is shorter than those on the car). I Broke a stud in the process, and decided not to replace rubber seals.

Attempt 3 : Reinstalled, replaced the broken stud and the bolt.

Attempt 4: Reinstalled applying a bit of RTV silicone sealant (Black) on the half moons

Attempt 5: (Getting pretty desperate here) Reinstalled and applied sealant to the entire contact surface of the gasket!

Attempt 6: Removed the old Sealant from the engine and the gasket (scraped it off) , used Red RTV sealant instead on half moons.

[FYI: there were various re-installation attempts between the above attempts]

Now, my next attempt will be this weekend. I figured I probably messed up something when I tried to removed the old RTV sealant from the gasket, so I got a new gasket! I'm replacing all rubber seals. I also always felt that some bolts didn't tighten as much as others, specifically the ones on the left side of the gasket, so I'm guessing oil must have leaked somehow to the studs and the lubrication was screwing with my torque wrench's measurement, so I will degrease the studs and the bolts this time! I will thoroughly clean the surface of the gasket and the engine!

Now, before I do this, and I am getting really really really tired already, are there any recommendations to solve this oil leak that has been driving me nuts and making my car smell like burned oil !
In what pattern did you tighten the Valve Cover studs?
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Old 10-17-2012, 10:44 AM   #145
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In what pattern did you tighten the Valve Cover studs?
By an OE gasket and Mic the size of the half moons. THis is where we found the issue with our VR fiasco. I am so gun shy after warranting over 20 VC gaskets that I am not sure I will ever go back.
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Old 10-24-2012, 03:31 PM   #146
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I'm really really really fuucking hating the valve cover gasket replacements now. I've done this 3 times on my wife's car with OE gaskets purchased from the dealer and the fuuking thing is still leaking, just confirmed today. Now, keep in mind that I've done the following on this car in the past year and a half and verified that these areas are NOT leaking:
OFHG
Vanos line and washers
Oil pan gasket
Entire CCV

I had power washed the sh(*t out of the engine before doing the oil pan gasket job, and the exhaust manifold heat shields were clean as can be. Now the rear one on the passenger side has some oil on it and I can see it around the VC bolts there. What the FUUUUK? I've done the freakin tightening method to a T, and used the O2 sensor safe permatex silicone the last time, and it is not leaking from where the sealant as as far as I can see. Coming from literally right above one of the last bolts in the back. I suppose it might be coming from the rear half moon areas, but I won't be sure until I take it off.

Thinking of taking it off and reinstalling it, not replacing it, since it's been basically about a year. Do you all suggest that I completely remove the valve cover since some oil leaked through, totally clean the gasket and cover, let it dry, scrape off the permatex and then do the entire thing over again, making sure the VCG bolts are tight enough? I had not been "bottoming out" the bolts due to the many stories of breaking/stripping them, but did torque them all to spec. Rear ones did get torqued, but I was using a few extensions and a wobbly, so I am not sure how accurate that really is.

I CANNOT BE SPENDING ANY MORE F** MONEY ON OIL, IT IS SLOWLY MAKING ME GO BROKE!! I want this wagon to last forever and really really want this bIItch to stop leaking oil. I really thought I had her buttoned up recently after all the work I did (even changed valve cover cap and gasket too).

F.
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Old 10-24-2012, 03:34 PM   #147
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Originally Posted by trizzuth View Post
I'm really really really fuucking hating the valve cover gasket replacements now. I've done this 3 times on my wife's car with OE gaskets purchased from the dealer and the fuuking thing is still leaking, just confirmed today. Now, keep in mind that I've done the following on this car in the past year and a half and verified that these areas are NOT leaking:
OFHG
Vanos line and washers
Oil pan gasket
Entire CCV

I had power washed the sh(*t out of the engine before doing the oil pan gasket job, and the exhaust manifold heat shields were clean as can be. Now the rear one on the passenger side has some oil on it and I can see it around the VC bolts there. What the FUUUUK? I've done the freakin tightening method to a T, and used the O2 sensor safe permatex silicone the last time, and it is not leaking from where the sealant as as far as I can see. Coming from literally right above one of the last bolts in the back. I suppose it might be coming from the rear half moon areas, but I won't be sure until I take it off.

Thinking of taking it off and reinstalling it, not replacing it, since it's been basically about a year. Do you all suggest that I completely remove the valve cover since some oil leaked through, totally clean the gasket and cover, let it dry, scrape off the permatex and then do the entire thing over again, making sure the VCG bolts are tight enough? I had not been "bottoming out" the bolts due to the many stories of breaking/stripping them, but did torque them all to spec. Rear ones did get torqued, but I was using a few extensions and a wobbly, so I am not sure how accurate that really is.

I CANNOT BE SPENDING ANY MORE F** MONEY ON OIL, IT IS SLOWLY MAKING ME GO BROKE!! I want this wagon to last forever and really really want this bIItch to stop leaking oil. I really thought I had her buttoned up recently after all the work I did (even changed valve cover cap and gasket too).

F.
Maybe your VC is warped?
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Old 10-24-2012, 03:36 PM   #148
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Maybe your VC is warped?
I thought about that, but I really remember checking it thoroughly the last time I did it as it was only a year or so since I had last replaced it. Did a few tests with the straight edge, closely inspected and it all looked ok to me. She does not drive this car hard, unlike me in my 330. Just doesn't make sense. It's not a difficult job, compared to others I have done, just time consuming, and I always make sure to take my time. The last time I did it, I was damned sure I had it right. FFFFFFFFFF> I feel like kicking the sh(t out of her car now!
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Old 10-24-2012, 04:22 PM   #149
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Originally Posted by trizzuth View Post
I thought about that, but I really remember checking it thoroughly the last time I did it as it was only a year or so since I had last replaced it. Did a few tests with the straight edge, closely inspected and it all looked ok to me. She does not drive this car hard, unlike me in my 330. Just doesn't make sense. It's not a difficult job, compared to others I have done, just time consuming, and I always make sure to take my time. The last time I did it, I was damned sure I had it right. FFFFFFFFFF> I feel like kicking the sh(t out of her car now!
Is your PCV/CCV in good shape? If it's in bad shape, I'm pretty sure it could pressurize your valve cover leading to oil leakage. I mention this because it's more likely to happen in a lightly driven E46.
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Old 10-24-2012, 04:27 PM   #150
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Is your PCV/CCV in good shape? If it's in bad shape, I'm pretty sure it could pressurize your valve cover leading to oil leakage. I mention this because it's more likely to happen in a lightly driven E46.
Read you slacker. Brand new within the past year.
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Old 10-24-2012, 04:29 PM   #151
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Read you slacker. Brand new within the past year.
I did... but I've read of others having it go bad quickly. Are you in a cold climate? You probably know all about it though if you've replaced it yourself. Just trying to throw out ideas for you.
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Old 10-24-2012, 04:29 PM   #152
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I'd give those ones in the back a half extra turn after torquing them down to spec. It's hard to torque them due to their location.
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Old 10-24-2012, 04:39 PM   #153
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Originally Posted by trizzuth View Post
I'm really really really fuucking hating the valve cover gasket replacements now. I've done this 3 times on my wife's car with OE gaskets purchased from the dealer and the fuuking thing is still leaking, just confirmed today.

F.
Next time I do mine I'm usiing the sealant completely around the half moons instead of just on the tips. That's where mine is leaking from.
If you find your leak was from other than the half moons, I'd strongly consider running a thin amount competely around the gasket mating area. Not too much. Is BMW getting their oe gaskets made in China now?? My new one in the package says 'Made in Hungary'.

Not that it's relevant to your situation, but recently I see my gasket leaking at the front highest half moon. Then after a little more inspecting and wiping, I find it leaks with a slo stream when it's cold, but stops leaking when the engine is competely warmed up!
Would have expected just the opposite. So I wipe the oil while I'm just starting out, but then can travel for a hundred miles without seeing any more trace of the leak! Crazy car
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Old 10-24-2012, 04:42 PM   #154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trizzuth View Post
I'm really really really fuucking hating the valve cover gasket replacements now. I've done this 3 times on my wife's car with OE gaskets purchased from the dealer and the fuuking thing is still leaking, just confirmed today. Now, keep in mind that I've done the following on this car in the past year and a half and verified that these areas are NOT leaking:
OFHG
Vanos line and washers
Oil pan gasket
Entire CCV

I had power washed the sh(*t out of the engine before doing the oil pan gasket job, and the exhaust manifold heat shields were clean as can be. Now the rear one on the passenger side has some oil on it and I can see it around the VC bolts there. What the FUUUUK? I've done the freakin tightening method to a T, and used the O2 sensor safe permatex silicone the last time, and it is not leaking from where the sealant as as far as I can see. Coming from literally right above one of the last bolts in the back. I suppose it might be coming from the rear half moon areas, but I won't be sure until I take it off.

Thinking of taking it off and reinstalling it, not replacing it, since it's been basically about a year. Do you all suggest that I completely remove the valve cover since some oil leaked through, totally clean the gasket and cover, let it dry, scrape off the permatex and then do the entire thing over again, making sure the VCG bolts are tight enough? I had not been "bottoming out" the bolts due to the many stories of breaking/stripping them, but did torque them all to spec. Rear ones did get torqued, but I was using a few extensions and a wobbly, so I am not sure how accurate that really is.

I CANNOT BE SPENDING ANY MORE F** MONEY ON OIL, IT IS SLOWLY MAKING ME GO BROKE!! I want this wagon to last forever and really really want this bIItch to stop leaking oil. I really thought I had her buttoned up recently after all the work I did (even changed valve cover cap and gasket too).

F.
I feel the frustration man.

DO NOT re-use the gasket if it is already a year old.

I used Victor Reinz to do the VCG job in march. MOFO started leaking in August at the front half moons. By leaking I mean, a lot for a leak. It was more like a spray.
I re-did the job with red high temp silicon on the edges and corners of the half moons. Mind you, I re-used the same gasket.
After a week it started to leak again. I re-did the job with sealant all over the half moons to the VANOS meeting points.
Two weeks down the line, VC leaks again at another spot.

Got tired of toping off the oil. I re-did the job yesterday with new gasket. This time I used elring gasket. It felt a bit skinnier than the VR I used earlier.
However, the spark plug hole gaskets(new in March) were already brittle and broke off when I took them out.
Now I am hoping that this will not leak.

This time I went extra careful, not to break any studs by over-torquing or have any leaks because or under torque. Used a torque wrench at 8 ft lb, and cleaned the **** out of the VC and the mating surface at the head.

I feel you man, I did the same job 4 times already since march till now.

My tips:

-Use a new gasket.
-Keep the mating surface at the head and VC and the gasket as much oil free as you can.
-Apply RTV on the VANOS meeting points and the corners at the half moons, and leave it for 15 mins before getting the VC on the head.
-Torque from middle to the opposite bolts going outwards in the circle.
-Leave the car for 24 hours for the RTV to be 100% sealed(although I had to drive today so I took it out in 12 hours).

PS: I will be doing CCV and OFHG next. I have a slight leak at OFHG and CCV is probable the original so. Now I just need time to do those big jobs, already the parts are sitting here.

Good luck man.
If this doesnt work, I am going to order a new VC as well.
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Old 11-30-2012, 03:38 PM   #155
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Victor Reinz VC gasket installed several months ago, now leaking at front half moons. Will be redoing with another brand. VR has had a good rep on their gaskets, but their e46 VC gaskets over the past year clearly have issues.
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Old 11-30-2012, 04:12 PM   #156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Victor Reinz View Post
All valve cover and oil pan gaskets constructed from rubber should be put on dry. This includes cleaning oil from the surfaces of the cover and the engine before installation. I cannot speak for Elring, but in the case of Victor Reinz gaskets, if a sealant is needed, it'll be included in the package with the gasket. Both Victor Reinz and Elring are major suppliers to the OE European car manufacturers and in every likelihood, your BMW has gaskets on it made by both companies since OEM platforms are typically supplied, piece by piece.
you guys ought to check your headgaskets for the bmw m20 engines. they are guaranteed leakers. don't sell us on your claim construction quality when they look like they're made out of cardboard in contrast to other oem suppliers and manufacturer specs.

your company's shotty gaskets cost me $700 on an engine rebuild when they leaked twice on both rebuilds!

Last edited by kaboo0m; 11-30-2012 at 04:13 PM.
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Old 11-30-2012, 05:41 PM   #157
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Victor Reinz VC gasket installed several months ago, now leaking at front half moons. Will be redoing with another brand. VR has had a good rep on their gaskets, but their e46 VC gaskets over the past year clearly have issues.
As has been referred to in another post, I believe the mold for he Victor Reinz gasket is at fault because each one of their VCG's leaks at the half moon areas. And it would not leak if the rubber gasket was a bit larger here to compress properly. Because so many of us have had this problem, I'd only think highly of VR if they posted here that they'll take responsiblity for their substandard gaskets and make good with new improved replacement gaskets.
I see from their post earlier in this thread that they are even claiming that their gasket should be installed dry as they do not supply any sealant with their gasket! Does not this completely oppose the instructions given by BMW, Bentley, and as listed in the Beisan instructions?
When a company displays such a lack of corporate integrity, I completely avoid them for ALL the products they manufacture, and I make a point of mentioning their lack of ethics whenever anything even remotely related comes up in a topic on this and any other board.
Help me spread the word!

Last edited by Stinger9; 11-30-2012 at 06:01 PM.
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Old 11-30-2012, 06:20 PM   #158
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I just sent my VR gaskets back this week to BMA to exchange out for genuine BMW. Yves is very easy to work with.
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Old 11-30-2012, 06:46 PM   #159
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I recently used this Permatex sealant on a VW 1.8t oil pan that had no gasket, it used just a silicon sealer.

http://www.permatex.com/products/pro...t-maker-detail

Overall I am far happier with this than the older Blue or Red Permatex.

This sealer cured quickly and I have had no issues with leaks on the oil pan to engine block interface. Again, this oil pan has no gasket, just silicon sealer.
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Old 11-30-2012, 07:45 PM   #160
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I used Victor Reinz VC gasket and leak after 2 month.

Now I bought OEM from BMW dealer. No leak after that.
I'm not going to use Victor Reinz VC gasket and they don't make OEM gasket for E46 as far as my search.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...880&highlight=
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