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Suspension & Braking Forum by BimmerWorld
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Old 06-19-2013, 01:46 PM   #461
CharlzO
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Originally Posted by aarondb4 View Post
Got the kit yesterday. New mounts and such should be in middle of next week, hoping to have everything installed and aligned by next weekend, looking forward to it!

And I am on 17's so I will post pics when I am done.
Looking forward to the pics, and give us any tips you might find along the way, or whatever! I'm on 17s myself, and hoping to order one of these up as well. Not sure where I'm gonna make time/space to install, but I figure since the front end is in dire need of refreshing, I'd go the whole way. Time to make a list of everything I need... should be...fun.
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Old 06-19-2013, 01:48 PM   #462
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Mounts are on the truck for delivery today. If I can get the wife to leave me alone I am hoping to have this done on Saturday. I will take pics along the way. Not sure how low I will go to start. I have plans to go to 18 or 19" wheels in the future so may go low now and then move it back up later.
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Old 06-20-2013, 08:16 PM   #463
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UPDATE!
Had these on the car for about a month now. Absolutely love them. The ride is very sporty and fairly stiff, but not too much. Would DEFINITELY recommend. I have my backs about halfway down and fronts almost all the way, maybe one turn short from all the way down. Installation was simple enough, did in the driveway on jacks no problem. Just got new tires put on last week and that was a huge improvement in handling as well. Currently running Style 44's (17's) on a 225/45/17 tire with 10mm spacer in the fronts and 20mm on the rears (ECS Tuning spacers and bolts). No weird noises or anything from these coils at all, and no complaints yet! Settled fully in about two weeks I'd say.

Onto some quick pictures just in the driveway:
Shot with a Canon T3i with a 50mm 1.8F lens, no editing
IMG_1510
IMG_1507
IMG_1506
IMG_1504


I know my front bumper fitment is wack at the moment, I broke a clip while backing out of a yard and the grass caught it..
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Old 06-20-2013, 09:08 PM   #464
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Looks great! I'll be putting my order in shortly, as soon as I also make my shopping list of other stuff to replace at the same time. Gotta figure out what my offset is, see what spacers I'll need to run for mine as well.
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Old 06-20-2013, 09:28 PM   #465
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About month and a half in had some minor issues at first but they have been resolved. They ride great! Will post again down the road and let you guys know how they've held up.
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Old 06-21-2013, 10:56 AM   #466
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One week...no problems!

Had em on for a week now. Love the ride, very smooth.
Rims are F18x8 215/35 R18x8.5 225/40





And just to give u an idea how low it can go, fronts all the way down. Rears still have another 1.5" maybe to go.

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Old 06-21-2013, 11:07 AM   #467
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I ordered my set a week ago and they still have not shipped. Is this expected? Did anyone else have a delay between order and shipment?
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Old 06-21-2013, 11:46 AM   #468
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^ I got mine within a week.
Sometimes they have to build the kit. So, it might take a little longer.
Contact Kriss, she is very helpful.

As for the coils, I am getting a weird clunk and creaking noise from the front. I am going to change the Front Strut mounts this weekend or next week considering if the mounts get here before the weekend.
Also my fronts are not that low. I may have an inch or so left to lower. I will go all the way low at the front and raise rear by half an inch when I do the strut mounts.

For all of you guys who did the fronts by themselves, how do you screw in the nut that hold the strut to the mount?

I am considering to do them myself this time. So, spring compressors from auto zone, and what do you do with the nut to the strut?
I dont have air tools.

May be I have to take to a shop again.

Other than the clunk I am getting, these coils are a very good value for money.
They are stiff but not a lot. Also, the rear will bounce a bit more than the sports suspension setup.
But the car has very less roll now. I am considering adding a strut tower brace and beefing up the roll bars in the front and rear.

Only thing to see is how it holds up in the winter.
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Old 06-21-2013, 12:22 PM   #469
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^ I got mine within a week.

For all of you guys who did the fronts by themselves, how do you screw in the nut that hold the strut to the mount?

I am considering to do them myself this time. So, spring compressors from auto zone, and what do you do with the nut to the strut?
I dont have air tools.


Only thing to see is how it holds up in the winter.
For the fronts I used a small wrench, 7mm I think, to hold the rod while I used a ratchet wrench on the nut. I bought a washer from Home Depot for the strut mounts so I didn't have to disassemble the old suspension at all, and that should fix the clunking noise. I used no air tools at all and did everything in the driveway on jack stands


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Old 06-21-2013, 01:41 PM   #470
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For the fronts I used a small wrench, 7mm I think, to hold the rod while I used a ratchet wrench on the nut. I bought a washer from Home Depot for the strut mounts so I didn't have to disassemble the old suspension at all, and that should fix the clunking noise. I used no air tools at all and did everything in the driveway on jack stands


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Cool thanks.
I did the rears by myself, but didnt want to mess with the spring compressors the first time so took it to a shop.
Since, I am going to replace the strut mounts now, I am thinking to tackle it myself.
I have to dismantle them anyway though as they are already installed on the car. And this time I am just doing the front mounts. Everything else was changed but I left the front strut mounts thinking they are still good. In 2 months I got creaking noise.

EDIT: Can I dismantle these without the spring compressors? I know for the stock suspension, the shop used spring compressors but I am not sure if they had to use compressors on the coils to put the mount on. I know some coils dont need the compressors because of the shorter springs, but not sure about these.


So, yeah I have to do the whole thing again.

Just a recommendation of parts to buy while installing coils or any suspension overhaul you are doing.

-rear shock mounts with reinforcement plates and gaskets.
-strut mounts(with reinforcement plates preferred), but I am thinking to go with -a strut tower brace so not installing the plates.
-All new bolts and nuts.
-rear spring pads, if they are worn.
-All the washers for shock and strut mounts.
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Old 06-21-2013, 01:45 PM   #471
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I had these on my e36 M3, I thought they were really good and had no issues with them.
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Old 06-22-2013, 10:42 AM   #472
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I contacted Kristina and have not yet heard back. I'm very disappointed.
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Old 06-22-2013, 06:08 PM   #473
E46runsPCB
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Quote:
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Cool thanks.
I did the rears by myself, but didnt want to mess with the spring compressors the first time so took it to a shop.


EDIT: Can I dismantle these without the spring compressors? I know for the stock suspension, the shop used spring compressors but I am not sure if they had to use compressors on the coils to put the mount on. I know some coils dont need the compressors because of the shorter springs, but not sure about these.
Yes. You can remove the nut on the front coils without any compression. When removing I would still be a little cautious because with the mount on there is a little pressure on the spring I believe, but not enough to kill you. I would recommend adjusting your coils to the lowest setting so there is as minimal pressure on the spring as possible before removing the nut to be safe. But when I installed the new mounts on the new coils, no compressor was needed. Just be sure you DON'T FORGET THAT WASHER. Otherwise you could get the clunking noise




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Old 06-25-2013, 02:55 PM   #474
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Okay got my install done on Saturday, not too bad a job and I am happy with the results.

First I thought I would give a list of parts I bought to do the install. My wife's previous car was a Mazda 6, I did new struts on that car and did not do mounts and it creaked and groaned really bad with the new struts, mounts fixed the issue so I was not going to make the same mistake again. So here is the shopping list.

1. New front strut mounts. I bought Lemfoerder from ECS Tuning.
2. Front strut mount reinforcement plates. These go on top of the mount but under the car. Bought BMW brand from ECS.
3. New rear shock mounts. I ended up buying the kit from ECS. So I got new mounts, gaskets, nuts and their reinforcement brackets which are specially made for verts.
4. I bought new spring pads for the back. You use the stock upper spring pad and put it on the bottom of the new spring so I bought 2 new upper spring pads OEM from ECS.

Everything else I needed for install was either on the car or in the Street Edge Kit.

So let's start with the front.

1. Jacked the front of the car and placed on jack stands.
2. Removed front wheels. My car was formerly a Washington state car so suffered from wet weather. My wheels were stuck to my hubs. I used a hammer on the inside of the wheel while my helper spun the wheel, came off after a few whacks.
3. Next I removed the pinch bolt from the lower strut. After bolt was removed my helper held the LCA down out of the way far enough for me to slip the bottom of the strut out of the mount.
4. With the bottom of the strut free I removed the three nuts in the engine bay and the stock setup came out.
5. You need to get a washer off the stock setup as per SE instructions. This is where you need spring compressors. I am an idiot and did not use them for the first strut. My helper was holding the whole thing while I took the nut off the top of the mount. When it released the spring shot the mount and everything else it could directly at my face. I took a strut mount to the chin and everything else missed me. Be smart, compress the springs before taking apart to get the washer you need.
6. With the stock washer removed I took the nut off the SE CO. The CO spring is not under a lot of tension so you can just remove the nut. I put the stock washer on top of the black platform, put the new strut mount over that and installed the nut.
7. Place the reinforcement plate over the three bolts on the strut mount paying attention to the nub, they can only go on one way. Slip the setup into the car and install the three nuts in the engine bay, just finger tight at this point.
8. Now the bottom of the CO needs to go in the pinch mount. There is a nub that hangs off the side of the CO, this needs to go in the groove of the pinch assembly. There is a lip on the bottom of the assembly, the widest part of the CO needs to rest on that lip, you should have some CO hanging out the bottom of the pinch setup.
9. Install pinch bolt and torque to 60 ft. lbs.
10. Now torque the 3 nuts in the engine bay to 25 ft. lbs. a piece. Now is when I torqued the strut nut to the mount. I have a socket set that is hollow, if you don't you may need to use a ratcheting wrench of something of the kind. Put an allen wrench into the rod and the wrench on the nut, hold the allen still and tighten the nut. Torque spec is again 25 ft. lbs I believe.
11. Rinse and repeat for the other front setup. Remember there is a set screw on the adjuster, if it is not spinning freely check the set screw, and don't forget to tighten back up once you are done adjusting.

Moving on to the rear.

1. Remove wheel.
2. Remove bottom shock mount bolt.
3. Install new rear shock mounts and gaskets to the new rear shocks, I looked at the stock setup for reference on the order to install things. If you buy the reinforcement kit those slip in on top of the car body. I used the new nuts in the kit to mount the shock.
4. Remove old spring. It is tight but with my helper putting his weight into pushing the rotor down I was able to yank out the old spring. No spring compressor needed.
5. Removed old spring pads top and bottom.
6. Install new top spring pad where the old bottom pad was, it fits just fine.
7. Install the adjuster in the top of the spring, the flat part of the spring is the top.
8. Install the spring being careful to get a good flush mount with the new bottom pad. No spring compressor needed, should go in easily.
9. Install bottom shock mount bolt, use a jack to raise the rotor to meet the shock. Torque to 60 ft. lbs.
10. Reinstall wheel, put the car down and enjoy your handiwork.

On to my review.

The kit appears to be good quality, no issues to report with feel or fit. I am running 17" wheels at the moment. Not by choice but the PO just put new tires on so I am going to kill these tires before moving to 19's. Because of that I wanted to adjust low to fill the fender gap. My fronts are for all intents all the way down. I went all the way down then spun back a bit so I could get to the set screw easily. There is still a tiny gap but not too bad.

I originally had the rear adjustment set at three threads from all the way down. So go all the way down the spin back till there were three threads showing at the top. This ended up being too low IMO. The wheel was fricken tucked, no gap at all, couldn't see half the tire. I measured the wheel wells to the ground and the back was 1 and a half inches lower. I decided to readjust and raise the back end. I am now three threads from all the way up and it is better. I am still half an inch lower in the rear than the front when measuring wheel well to ground but it looks good and I am happy with it.

As far as the ride.

With the rears too low it was a bit bouncy in the back, not bad, but our roads suck and a good bump you definitely knew you hit especially in the back. With the new level it is not as bad. Now any ride complaint is going to be mostly due to our horrible roads around here. On a smooth road it is great. I had stock springs and shocks before all original at 82k miles. I used to dodge manhole covers because the car would shake after I hit them. Now I go right over them no problem.

As a driver's car this setup is great. Everything feels very tight and handling is much improved. I went to a parking lot and did some tight circles. You will lose traction long before you feel any body roll with these. It feels really good to drive aggressively. I haven't had a lot of drive time yet as it is my wife's car, but I am looking forward to more time trying them out in the twisties. As a comfort car... It is stiffer and tighter than before. My old shocks sucked so hitting bumps and the shake afterward was not fun. This setup does not "soak up" the bumps but the car feels solid and you don't mind taking on a less than optimal road.

So overall. My wife commutes in the car and she probably would have preferred to stick with stock springs and Bilstein touring shocks. She is not an aggressive driver, she would give up handling to gain comfort if given the choice. I like the SE setup because I want the car to be a drivers car and these coils are definitely better than worn out stock for that. Also the car looks much better lower and I like the ability to adjust it as I see fit instead of being locked into one position. This will really come in handy when I go to 19" wheels as I will be able to get my desired fender gap just right.

I went with this kit because I got the whole thing for $250 and for that price I can't go wrong with the excellent support from Kris and the 2 year warranty. I feel they are worth the full asking price at this time. But I have only had them for 3 days, so I can't say yet if they are worth the price. If they hold up well then I will definitely give them two thumbs up as far as bang for the buck. I am sure the ST setup is nicer and probably rides a bit better but the cheapest I could find that was close to $800 on sale. For the $450 sale price these SE coils are great, for the $250 I got them for I would have been stupid not to buy them.

I have some before and after pics at home, I will get them up later as promised. I will update once we have some miles on these. I have a road trip coming up in a few weeks, will report back on how they do on a long freeway stretch after that. For now I am happy with the ride and the ease of installation. And with my new mounts and following the instructions to the T I have absolutely zero clunks, groans, squeaks or shaking.

Forgot to say, I have stock wheels and I was advised that I would not need wheel spacers by a fellow forum member. They were right and wrong. I am not rubbing but I am really damn close in the front. I can't get a finger in between the wheel and the coil. It is very tight, a little too tight for comfort. I was worried that I would not be able to drive the car until I ordered some spacers as I can't seem to get them locally. We have driven the car 3 days as is and we have not had a problem yet, hasn't rubbed or knocked yet, but just the tiniest bit of buildup on the wheel and it would be rubbing.

So, if I was going to stick with my current wheels I would definitely buy some spacers from the forum or ECS to get a bit more breathing room. However I am only going to run these wheels until the tires are shot, then I plan to move up to 19's so I think I am going to skip the spacers for now, and just get wheels with a wider offset when the time comes. I may run into a rubbing problem and have to get the spacers for these wheels but so far I have not seen a problem, I will keep an eye on it for now.
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Old 06-25-2013, 03:12 PM   #475
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aarondb4....wow. That was a lot of information. Thanks for sharing your experience with Street Edge coilovers and our customer support.
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Old 06-25-2013, 06:28 PM   #476
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I am an idiot. I forgot about the links in the front. Pretty straight forward just swap the new for the old. However the driver side did fight me a bit. It looked like it was going to be way too short. I had to put a floor jack under the bar that it mounts to and push it up to make the shorter link fit. Worked out okay.
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Old 06-26-2013, 03:15 PM   #477
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Quick question, just out of curiosity sake... Anyone know the difference in clearance between the stock suspension, and the SE coils? For example, let's say you had a +35 wheel on stock. Wondered what the distance to clear the inside is on those, on stock parts, vs how close it is on these? My Sport Editions, after further measuring, appear to be a 42 offset as 7.5" wides, whereas my stock 16x7s were +47. So according to the 1010 calculator, I'm 1mm closer to the inside, and extending 11mm farther out already. Looking at my fronts, there isn't much on the outside to go, before I could potentially have issues. Looks pretty close to flush already, so I want to go with the smallest spacer I can find, that will clear, but not push out much farther. But I kinda want to order the spacers if I need, before I put everything on, so I don't end up having to wait for spacers if my wheels won't fit.

So, just wondered the differences. Like, if I go out, and have say, 10 mm clearance now to the inside, and the coils will need say a 13mm difference, I'd know I need at least 4mm+... if that makes sense? Maybe I'm just rambling lol.
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Old 06-26-2013, 03:38 PM   #478
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Quick question, just out of curiosity sake... Anyone know the difference in clearance between the stock suspension, and the SE coils? For example, let's say you had a +35 wheel on stock. Wondered what the distance to clear the inside is on those, on stock parts, vs how close it is on these? My Sport Editions, after further measuring, appear to be a 42 offset as 7.5" wides, whereas my stock 16x7s were +47. So according to the 1010 calculator, I'm 1mm closer to the inside, and extending 11mm farther out already. Looking at my fronts, there isn't much on the outside to go, before I could potentially have issues. Looks pretty close to flush already, so I want to go with the smallest spacer I can find, that will clear, but not push out much farther. But I kinda want to order the spacers if I need, before I put everything on, so I don't end up having to wait for spacers if my wheels won't fit.

So, just wondered the differences. Like, if I go out, and have say, 10 mm clearance now to the inside, and the coils will need say a 13mm difference, I'd know I need at least 4mm+... if that makes sense? Maybe I'm just rambling lol.
My stock style 44's have 47mm offset 17x8 configuration. Didnt clear the coils. The inner surface of the tire touched the springs.
People here have had success using 5mm spacers. So essentially, 42+ offset on 8" wheels should be good.
I went with 10mm spacers in the front and 15mms in the rear.
I still have room in the front if I wanted to with even wider spacers. Not flush yet, but I don't want to go too much wide.

On the rears, I think 25mm spacers on 47 offset 17x8 wheels will make it flush. 15mm is good for me because once the rears are lowered the wheels are tucked in nicely.

I am going to raise my rears springs a little because right now my car looks like its squatting. These coils drop the rears a lot in comparison to the fronts.

So, this weekend, I am going to install new front strut mounts, lower the front almost to the maximum and raise the rears by an inch.
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Old 06-26-2013, 03:55 PM   #479
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Well, I think I'll triple check the flushness of my currents in relation to the front fender. I'll likely go with 5's, hate to go more if I don't have to. And, if the calculator is correct, I can gain another mm back if I switch back to stocks, in a worst case scenario. And I'll go back through the pages and see what I can find if anyone else has posted +42's and what they're using. And now I gotta find new center caps. Lost one last night. Ugh.
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Old 06-26-2013, 04:06 PM   #480
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5mm is the min. size spacer but it seems like most customers like the look of the 10mm better.
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