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Old 08-05-2012, 01:24 PM   #1
Elvin123
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Overheating after cooling package installed

A couple of weeks back I was in traffic when I hear a loud splash, and see smoke coming from under my hood. I turned off my car immediately and did not even let the meter go to 3/4. Turns out my expansion tank exploded and I had to get towed back home.

I then replaced my radiator hoses, water pump, belts, thermostat with housing and its still overheating. What can be causing this? The car is a manual 328i.

Thanks
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:26 PM   #2
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What kind of coolant did you use? Did you check if your fan was working?
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:27 PM   #3
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I used the correct coolant from the dealer, the fan is working too
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:29 PM   #4
Ivor-BMW
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Check if a lover radiator hose geting worm. Is your heater blowing hot air is your fan working.
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:31 PM   #5
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radiator hoses are brand new, although I did notice my air conditioning not blowing air as cold as before.
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:32 PM   #6
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OP, you need to probably just bleed the system properly.

The quick way.

When cold, fill ET to between min and max.

Close cap and bleeder (which you shouldn't have opened anyway).

Key to position 2 (car off)
Heater on high
Fan on low
3 red dots on dial

Start car, rev to 4K rpm for 20 secs. and turn the car off.

Check level of coolant again...add to between min and max.

Repeat if necessary.

Monitor coolant level for a while until you're sure you're out of trouble as it could be something else. You didn't replace WP...could be that. Could be fan...temp sensor on lower hose.

You could still have a small leak you missed which added air to the system after your work...which air will either block coolant flow...or get in wp and cause it to cavitate where it won't pump.
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:34 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Elvin123 View Post
radiator hoses are brand new, although I did notice my air conditioning not blowing air as cold as before.

yes but is it geting worm lower one. do they get very hard straight away.
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:38 PM   #8
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Dmax apparently the sensor dosent touch coolant
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:41 PM   #9
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The temp sensor is in the lower hose...it touches coolant there. You're thinking of the ET's level sensor, which doesn't touch coolant.

Odds are OP, that I'm right about it being a bleeding issue...it often is. I'm not sure about your AC (cross posted), but the water valve does go bad...if it stays stuck open, that'd account for your ac feeling warmer. But, it could also be you're just low on 134a and just noticed it now because you're looking at stuff more closely...IDK.
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:43 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmax View Post
OP, you need to probably just bleed the system properly.

The quick way.

When cold, fill ET to between min and max.

Close cap and bleeder (which you shouldn't have opened anyway).

Key to position 2 (car off)
Heater on high
Fan on low
3 red dots on dial

Start car, rev to 4K rpm for 20 secs. and turn the car off.

Check level of coolant again...add to between min and max.

Repeat if necessary.

Monitor coolant level for a while until you're sure you're out of trouble as it could be something else. You didn't replace WP...could be that. Could be fan...temp sensor on lower hose.

You could still have a small leak you missed which added air to the system after your work...which air will either block coolant flow...or get in wp and cause it to cavitate where it won't pump.
I bled the system correctly already, i will keep trying again just in case. I replaced the water pump and the thermostat also. Anything else that might be causing this?
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Old 08-05-2012, 07:41 PM   #11
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to bleed you can also put the heat on high and fan on max. et cap off and loosen the bleeder screw slightly so you could stick like 3 toothpicks in the side and add water/coolant and wait for the air bubbles to come out then tighten and your good. i agree with dmax i bet theres a bunch of air bubbles in your system
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Old 08-05-2012, 08:34 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Elvin123 View Post
I bled the system correctly already, i will keep trying again just in case. I replaced the water pump and the thermostat also. Anything else that might be causing this?
Sorry, missed the WP.

Also, didn't say, but if the therm wasn't OE, it could be the issue also.

I can't tell you how many times bleeding is the issue. Although the instructions above are how you bleed it when doing work on the system, you're past that now, and if there are bubbles hiding around, just bleeding like you do when you fill the system from dead empty, just doesn't get the same results, I think, because the coolant isn't circulating at all when the car is off.

The instructions I gave are from a bmw tis though, so don't think I'm just making it up. Give that a try and see where you get.
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Old 08-06-2012, 01:42 AM   #13
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I replaced my thermostat and had an over heating problem (OEM BMW THERM). BMW MERCEDES AUDI are notorious for air pockets in engine after replacing thermostat.

IF it is a trapped air pocket this will fix it.

1. park the car on a slant so that the hood is higher than the rest of the car. (helps get the trapped air pocket out #air bubbles rise)
2. remove coolant cap. start car and let it run. hold RPM at about 1500 for 20-30 sec.
3. squeeze/release lower radiator coolant hose (with coolant cap off) repeat squeeze/release WATCH YOUR HAND! these hoses should have some pressure and both be hot. If on is cold that means its not circulating. aka air pocket
4. blast full heat while car is running.
5. ADD fluid or distilled water as coolant level lowers dramatically showing that the air is being released (car needs to hick up)
6. after letting it idle for about 15 min (w cap off, uphill, heat on FULL) ... drive it around a bit. if it continues repeat the steps.


obviously keep an eye on the temp. gauge the during this whole process.

hope its an easy hickup fix like mine was. good luck!
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Old 08-12-2012, 10:24 PM   #14
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bump, car still overheating and I have no idea what it is. Ive been bleeding the coolant and still see no air bubbles, im thinking I might have to replace the fan clutch, any ways i could test it? all methods i find are for automatic cars.
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Old 08-12-2012, 11:58 PM   #15
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Check your aux fan. If your mechanical fan clutch is bad, your electric fan should compensate by increasing its speed. Check your aux fan by pullng the connector on your temp sensor in the lower radiator hose. The aux fan should come up to full speed.

Are you loosing coolant too?
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Old 08-13-2012, 12:51 AM   #16
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Bimmerboye46 you MUST use the bleeder screw or you're simply not going to get the job done.

Sent from my GT-P1010 using Bimmer App
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Old 08-13-2012, 12:25 PM   #17
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Check your aux fan. If your mechanical fan clutch is bad, your electric fan should compensate by increasing its speed. Check your aux fan by pullng the connector on your temp sensor in the lower radiator hose. The aux fan should come up to full speed.

Are you loosing coolant too?
No im not losing any coolant but im pretty confused about the fan clutch, cause ive only been reading about automatics needing to replace them.

Should I pull the connector while the car is off?
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Old 08-13-2012, 02:41 PM   #18
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my car has both an auxiliary fan and mechanical fan, I read that only automatics have both
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Old 08-27-2012, 09:51 PM   #19
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That is very rare to have a mechanical fan in addition to the aux fan for a manual transmission 328i.
Your aux fan is in front of your radiator?

You should be able to disconnect when the car is off. The aux. fan should come on high when running.

Last edited by BMWCaptain; 08-28-2012 at 03:21 PM.
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Old 08-27-2012, 10:16 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmax View Post
Sorry, missed the WP.

Also, didn't say, but if the therm wasn't OE, it could be the issue also.

I can't tell you how many times bleeding is the issue. Although the instructions above are how you bleed it when doing work on the system, you're past that now, and if there are bubbles hiding around, just bleeding like you do when you fill the system from dead empty, just doesn't get the same results, I think, because the coolant isn't circulating at all when the car is off.

The instructions I gave are from a bmw tis though, so don't think I'm just making it up. Give that a try and see where you get.
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DMAX came to my rescue when I had a air pocket in my system... He's been around the block a few (a LOT) of times, so he knows what he is talking about...
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