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Old 09-26-2012, 08:58 AM   #81
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As promised, some pics of the FEQ half shaft, it was shrink wrapped and I didn't want to open it so I can hopefully return it if the used one is good.

things I noticed: Wierd scores almost like threading along the entire center shaft. Both ends near the connection to the diff and hub get skinny for some reason. The clamps that hold the boots on are interesting and fit almost flush against the boot, eliminating more balance issues, but they look cheap compared to the BMW OE one-time-use clamps that are on the OE half shafts.










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Old 09-26-2012, 09:06 AM   #82
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Garbage....
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Old 10-02-2012, 11:13 AM   #83
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so I replaced the half shaft with my new to me (used) one, F'n noise is still F'n there. I've completely dismantled the entire rear brake system on the rear passenger side as I had a hunch it might have been the e-brake shoes dragging on the inside of the old rusty rotor, but of course when yanking on that brake while driving, the noise doesn't get any louder or worse. Still making louder sound when taking right hand sweeping turn, but not left. Losing my wits here guys, only thing it can possibly be now is one of the rear wheel bearings, but it F Kills me to have to buy the tools I need for that and parts to do that job when I just spent so much replacing other random ****. Bottom line is that I do not want to take it to a shop and get azz raped with a huge diagnosis fee only to have them say "yep, def rear wheel bearing" because for the price of the diagnostic fee, I can replace both rears and the driver's side front!

FAWK ME. help me out gents, no clue where to go now.

Other thing that kills me is that i removed the caliper and drum brake on the passenger side rear (where I was sure for the 2nd time this noise was coming from), jacked up rear of car and put it into 4th gear wheels spinning like mad. Not one ounce of noise coming from that side. WHAT THA FAK!
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Old 10-02-2012, 01:24 PM   #84
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wow sorry you can't find the source of problem.

did you ever checked or replace the diff fluid?
have you done the grasping the wheels/tire at 3 & 9 (when elevated) and wiggled checking for play? for wheel bearings front and back

if its the diff it will change sounds when going up and down valleys and dips in the road at speed.
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Old 10-02-2012, 02:06 PM   #85
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Have not checked Diff fluid yet, but the noise does not change when going up/down valleys and dips in the road at speed, Only noticeable difference is when taking wide sweeping turns as mentioned. Have done wheel grasp test, and do not feel any movement whatsoever, but I really really feel like this issue is only noticeable when the car is under load, and there's really no way for me to test that theory out, even if I had a dyno to test it on, the noise from the dyno and tires on the dyno would be too loud to hear the noise I am concerned with.

Sucks for me. I said F it and ordered two new rear bearings from BMAparts.com, they had the OEM F.A.G. bearings at a great price, so I will have to suck it up and get the necessary tools to do this job and get it done asap. Never hated my car so much other than right now.
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Old 10-02-2012, 02:11 PM   #86
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I think (I/we) told you from the beginning. Wheel bearings (that is if you ruled out your tires)

Still haven't replaced your wheel bearings yet? Those get replaced due to wear/tear. Axles usually don't
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Old 10-02-2012, 02:16 PM   #87
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personally I would do that one front still before the rear. no need to have 3 good and one old front. besides front take more abuse.

one other test comes to mind. wheel bearings when bad often run hotter.
if you have a infrared point and shoot thermometer try that out. drive the car and check how hot each one is compared to the other side. not sure if this will help you at all or maybe it might??
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Old 10-02-2012, 02:23 PM   #88
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I think (I/we) told you from the beginning. Wheel bearings (that is if you ruled out your tires)

Still haven't replaced your wheel bearings yet? Those get replaced due to wear/tear. Axles usually don't
Did one front bearing already, passenger side. Have two rear wheel bearings on order for both rears. That leaves only the driver's front bearing, and the only reason I am not doing that at the same time, is that it really really sounds like it's coming from the rear, and if it were one of the fronts, I imagine I'd feel it in the steering wheel a heck of a lot more than I do.

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personally I would do that one front still before the rear. no need to have 3 good and one old front. besides front take more abuse.

one other test comes to mind. wheel bearings when bad often run hotter.
if you have a infrared point and shoot thermometer try that out. drive the car and check how hot each one is compared to the other side. not sure if this will help you at all or maybe it might??
No infrared therm.. but I did read to feel the hub as it will get especially hot if a bearing is bad, but then again, since the freakin rotor is directly connected to the hub, wouldn't the hub already get super hot from using the brakes? I suppose I could try to drive around, not really using brakes for awhile and see if anything gets super hot. F this f'n sucks.
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Old 10-02-2012, 02:25 PM   #89
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trizzuth: your new rear wheel bearings will fix the problem. no need to worry.
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Old 10-02-2012, 02:26 PM   #90
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it's like your red oil light comes on and you go OMG NO OIL PRESSURE! then you say in order to make the red oil light go away, you changed the fuel filter, swapped your muffler bearings, and polished your turn signal light--huh? start with the obvious/necessary first, then tackle obscure things like the halfshafts.

good luck!
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Old 10-02-2012, 02:49 PM   #91
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trizzuth: your new rear wheel bearings will fix the problem. no need to worry.
Thanks, even though I am not sure I believe, I did face bavaria when reading this and it makes me feel a tad better given the **** I've been going through with this car lately..

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it's like your red oil light comes on and you go OMG NO OIL PRESSURE! then you say in order to make the red oil light go away, you changed the fuel filter, swapped your muffler bearings, and polished your turn signal light--huh? start with the obvious/necessary first, then tackle obscure things like the halfshafts.

good luck!
HA. Only reason I even started to think half shaft was because of the visible vibration I saw with my own eyes when underneath the car, and the similar noise of wa wa wa coming from that general area. Also, I was able to pull the old half shaft and put in the new used one with just the tools I already have, only thing I needed was a 36mm 12 point socket to remove the hub nut.. so that job cost me $89.. whereas bearings would be around $35-50 a pop, but I need to get the $100 harbor freight tool, circlip pliers and maybe a bearing puller tool to get the hub removed, higher total cost.
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Old 10-02-2012, 02:58 PM   #92
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Here's a few new videos I took, one of the newly installed used halfshaft spinning (notice that the vibration on rotation is less than what I had seen before in the original video in post #63).

http://s905.beta.photobucket.com/use...095-1.mp4.html

Next is the video I took of the rear passenger wheel spinning after I removed the caliper, rotor and brake drum shoes. I put the rotor back on and bolted the wheel to it so it could spin freely without any other noise coming from the braking system.

http://s905.beta.photobucket.com/use...096-1.mp4.html

Just confuses me more.
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Old 10-02-2012, 03:03 PM   #93
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Can't tell anything by those videos. Anyway with your age and mileage, bearings are guaranteed to make noise anyway. My wheel bearings are currently wa-wa-ing but it doesn't bother me. i know i'll get to them within the next month. just havent had time.i have new tires so i ruled them out.
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Old 10-02-2012, 03:11 PM   #94
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I think it's kinda creepy that you have DMAX's pictures in your photobucket acct!!
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Old 10-02-2012, 03:12 PM   #95
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I wish I had a tiny microphone that I could tape right inside of each wheel well and then go for a drive and compare the audio files. Perhaps that way I could at least be sure that I knew where the noise was coming from when the car was on the road with weight on everything. All I have now is an ipad, but no way I am taping that anywhere under the car! I was also thinking that if I had a split folding rear seat, it might help with diagnosing the noise, if I could drop them down and drive around like that, but alas, I do not.
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Old 10-02-2012, 03:12 PM   #96
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I think it's kinda creepy that you have DMAX's pictures in your photobucket acct!!
HAHAH! hey, don't look there! That was when I was trying to convince him he needed some projectors, so I did a weak mock up in MS paint...
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Old 10-02-2012, 04:02 PM   #97
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No infrared therm.. but I did read to feel the hub as it will get especially hot if a bearing is bad, but then again, since the freakin rotor is directly connected to the hub, wouldn't the hub already get super hot from using the brakes? I suppose I could try to drive around, not really using brakes for awhile and see if anything gets super hot. F this f'n sucks.
both sides being equal with getting hot from the brakes...the bad side should be hotter. these thermometers are as cheap as $14 and even better at $25. also good for cooling system diagnosis and brakes.
http://www.harborfreight.com/non-con...ter-93983.html
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Old 10-02-2012, 04:12 PM   #98
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+1 on wheel bearing.. I'm sure you've tried all kinds of tests - grabbing wheels from different positions shaking them, spinning them, etc.

try spinning the wheel while recording sound with ur phone...(put it at same distance/position for every wheel) that helped me find which one it was. couldn't hear & compare well in person but I went on the computer and played the sounds loud (all in same volume) in succession - was able to tell instantly which one it was and replaced it.
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Old 10-02-2012, 04:18 PM   #99
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+1 on wheel bearing.. I'm sure you've tried all kinds of tests - grabbing wheels from different positions shaking them, spinning them, etc.

try spinning the wheel while recording sound with ur phone...(put it at same distance/position for every wheel) that helped me find which one it was. couldn't hear & compare well in person but I went on the computer and played the sounds loud (all in same volume) in succession - was able to tell instantly which one it was and replaced it.
I like this suggestion too, but unfortunately for me, the noise is really not there without any load on the car, so no way to do that test while driving!
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Old 10-02-2012, 04:26 PM   #100
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I feel the force is strong with wheel bearings too! I didn't go back and read, but I'm pretty sure I thought bearings early on. My rear bearings went before my front...which evidently haven't gone yet...how can that be?

You sure you faced Munich? Did you use a compass for that or did you just guesstimate?

I hear 'waa waa' and think bearing before even reading a post. Mango might be right in telling you I was right! (Now I'll look to see what I guessed!)

GL! Oh, btw, you can rent tools for this from Autozone for free, I'm pretty sure...you just need to leave a deposit. Check around...if not there, check other tool rental/auto shops...
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