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Old 08-23-2012, 05:32 PM   #1
Marmaz16
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Angry New Alternator. New Battery. Still having power drains/issues

Here is my previous post for reference, getting little recognition.
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...0#post14674630

Power voltage issue, not charging battery....

I just got a new alternator and battery in the car and i drove it today too. I was checking the OBC battery voltage whole time starting and driving around for the 30 or so Mins i was out. The battery had ~ 12.5 V when i was about to start and then it did quick drop and back up. It looked like it was fixed for like 30sec to a min. it shot up to > 13V almost 14V then it just dropped back down to ~12.0 and throughout whole time sitting in car and driving it ketp slowly ticking away. down to 11.3 and decided to head back home. I tried with A/C Light on etc. and made it worse and worse. Car just never charged.

I know that its possible to buy a Bad Alternator unit but hell its been doing samw thing with new stuff that was doing with Old. Also i dont seem to see/hear the alternator even spinning when i check under the hood. I see belt but not actual alternator itself.

If the laternator wasn;t working at all, could i even have drove that much just on the battery?

Could it possibly be my FSU?
The Wires in the enginebay and car trunk are all fine no corrosion or wear, Besides checking the wires in the body panel or under the car, HAve any other ideas? (BTW idk how to check or even where those undercar/doorpanel wires are)
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Old 08-23-2012, 05:39 PM   #2
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Your main belt runs through the water pump, power steering, alternator, etc, so if your car runs, the alternator is being powered. Did you do the install yourself? I would check the connections on the alternator itself, depending on how hard it is to properly tension the bolts that connect the alternator to your electrical system, it might not be a fully secure connection.

When I did a rebuild on an E39, the alternator connections took nearly an hour to finagle a way to get them all the way tight - which caused the same issues you're having now, once tightened, perfection!
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Old 08-23-2012, 05:45 PM   #3
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I did not read your cross posted thread, but it appears your alternator is not charging.

First place I would go and check is the engine to body ground wire that is on the passenger side near the motor mount. The side that connects to the body tends to be the problem connection.

This may be a better description of what to look for?

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...ghlight=ground

The easy way to test for this is just take a jumper cable, connect the negative side to the engine somewhere and the other side to the negative jumper post behind the right strut tower. Start the car and have someone watch the OBC Voltage display while you connect and disconnect the negative jumper cable, if the Voltage jumps up to where you expect it when the jumper cable is connected, your engine to body ground is bad.

Note, you do not need to do anything with the positive jumper cable, you are just putting a temporary ground path in with the jumper cable.
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Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

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Old 08-23-2012, 05:50 PM   #4
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Thx for the sound advice. Its getting late on east coast so i may have to wait till Tomorrow to test them out. I'll try to tighten connections to alternator again, I did install it myself. Then ill try the Ground bolt connection.

If neither ill take it to autozone again to test alternator, perhaps i got a bad rebuilt Bosch...
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Old 08-23-2012, 06:20 PM   #5
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jfoj just shut this thread down - fantastic post
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Old 08-23-2012, 07:11 PM   #6
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Try cleaning the cables of the battery leads, this happened to me.
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Old 08-23-2012, 07:28 PM   #7
Marmaz16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfoj View Post

First place I would go and check is the engine to body ground wire that is on the passenger side near the motor mount. The side that connects to the body tends to be the problem connection.

This may be a better description of what to look for?

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...ghlight=ground

The easy way to test for this is just take a jumper cable, connect the negative side to the engine somewhere and the other side to the negative jumper post behind the right strut tower. Start the car and have someone watch the OBC Voltage display while you connect and disconnect the negative jumper cable, if the Voltage jumps up to where you expect it when the jumper cable is connected, your engine to body ground is bad.

Note, you do not need to do anything with the positive jumper cable, you are just putting a temporary ground path in with the jumper cable.
I decided to do thsi quick...
Tested the OBC volts with the method above, no change when connecting and disconnecting. Same low voltage 11.9 and slow decreases. Also removed and placed back the battery lead on the alternator. No difference same issues.

Im guessing it may just be a bad alternator or any other ideas?


Also by cleaning the leads do you mean the battery connections in the trunk? or in the engine bay? I did clean the ones on the battery, there was little to no corrosion or markings...
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Old 08-23-2012, 07:32 PM   #8
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11.9 Volts, alternator is not putting anything out, you are drawing on the battery.

Jumper cables ruled out bad connections.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

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Old 08-24-2012, 02:44 PM   #9
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Im going to take back the Laternator and try my luck froma new one from Autozone. Prev new one was a Bosch remanufact NAPA.

Also before this maybe 1-2 motnhs prior i had the rear taillight recall from delear done and had both headlights, day time, replaced. Any idea if those would affect this issue?
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Old 08-24-2012, 03:11 PM   #10
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If you have the car running and then disconnect the positive cable from the battery the car will either keep running or die out. If it dies out, then its the alternator.
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Old 08-24-2012, 03:23 PM   #11
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I had the symptoms even after getting a new battery and alternator. After lots of threads and post, I went and changed the FSR, and that fix my drainage issue.
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Old 08-24-2012, 03:47 PM   #12
Marmaz16
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Quote:
If you have the car running and then disconnect the positive cable from the battery the car will either keep running or die out. If it dies out, then its the alternator.
Im sure it would die out, it dies as it is w/ battery on today got below 11V driving home from work. Also i heard this is bad/dangerous for your electrical system.

Quote:
I had the symptoms even after getting a new battery and alternator. After lots of threads and post, I went and changed the FSR, and that fix my drainage issue.
This has been my concern since the beginning due to maybe 1-2months ago i also had an issue with my A/C. Blow completely stopped working for about 2-3days but started right up again, no heat or air at all during those days. Some people say that the FSR wouldnt drain the battery, idk for sure or not...
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Old 08-24-2012, 06:25 PM   #13
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mine was doing the same thing and i had a problem with the fan randomly coming on and off when the car was off. was final stage resistor
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Old 08-25-2012, 04:27 AM   #14
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Fsu will drain batery while ignition i off. The fact that your voltage drops while car is idling can only be altenator. Check for loose connection. I replaced my fsu after altenator test was done. Remove fuse no.50 its fol blower.if that solves your drainage issue replace fsu.
Hope this helps
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Old 08-25-2012, 06:13 PM   #15
Marmaz16
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So will FSR/FSU w/e you want to call it...does that kill battery/voltage while car is running? if not no point to replace it if is still working with no blower issues. I got Alternator tested again and works fine with new battery so i am going to have to go see a euro mechanic or an auto electrician to test the issue. i guess thanks for all the help. Situation is really shitty debating dropping the car sadly....it only has 65k miles

OBC voltage shows alternator working correctly for 30secs to a min, volts go up past 13v to about 13.8 and then it just starts dropping and dropping below 12v and then i shut the car off.
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