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Go Back   E46Fanatics > E46 BMW > The Showroom

The Showroom
This is the place to show off your BMW to other members of the community. Post pictures and videos of your car and the modifications you have done to it. If you need a picture of something on a coupe, sedan, convertible or touring you will probably find it here!

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Old 12-21-2012, 05:18 PM   #41
DJ Syxx
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Thanks guys

Quote:
Originally Posted by simsima325 View Post
Oh man, these are much better than the racing, well fvckin done.
Thanks man It was hard trying to find these too, took me a long time, patience pays off as they say
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Old 12-22-2012, 09:20 PM   #42
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well done
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Old 12-22-2012, 10:56 PM   #43
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wow man that thing looks amazing. I love steel grey. coming along really nice.
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Old 01-07-2013, 05:45 PM   #44
DJ Syxx
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Ok bad news, my next update isn't the CSL bootlid yet but I have changed something else.

Following on with my "winter theme" I took my old black leather interior out in the early evening and swapped them over to a winter set! lol. I will get some daytime pics of it so for now,

Pics before:



And after:

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Old 01-11-2013, 10:43 AM   #45
DJ Syxx
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I fitted my Hamann replica fog covers on. I managed to get a replacement passenger side as the clip snapped completely from before.

I made new clips chopping up an E36 boot handle (thanks to Dips for giving me one) and used longer screws as the clip and screws they give with these are quite frankly crap!


And now fitted took a picture. Fitment if I'm honest isn't that great. I don't know if my bumper is slightly out of shape or these are just a bad mould or copies. But I guess it is what it is.


Next job will be to give the leather a good clean and using leather cleaner and conditioner etc. Also going to replace the door clips as some are missing due to being broken.
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Old 04-23-2013, 01:53 PM   #46
DJ Syxx
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I recently changed the oil, so new oil filter from BM's and fresh oil. Nearly burnt my hand on hot oil but got there in the end lol. Going to change my vanos filter sometime this weekend as well

Finally able to fit my summer wheels back on after the harsh winter we have had.

They are back on with a slight twist, I managed to source the design element spoke inserts. After confirming the right part numbers got on the phone to order a set from ACS UK.

So these are the wheels before:

275 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

These are the elements which clip into the spokes:

276 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

And fitted to the wheel:

277 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

I fitted these to on saturday afternoon before the West London meet think these work very well and gives a slightly different look. Couple of pics from the meet and comments welcome.




I fitted these to on saturday afternoon before the West London meet think these work very well and gives a slightly different look. Couple of pics from the meet and comments welcome.


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Old 04-23-2013, 01:56 PM   #47
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nice!!!
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Old 04-23-2013, 02:05 PM   #48
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very clean... nice job.
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Old 04-23-2013, 09:49 PM   #49
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beauty!
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Old 04-23-2013, 10:52 PM   #50
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wowzers, very nice.
New interior is the sexxx
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Old 05-16-2013, 04:18 PM   #51
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Did a little bit of minor maintaince on the M, dropped the oil and replaced with fresh and new filter last month. I finally found my vanos filter kit which I was looking for every where as was buried under a pile of crap!

Its not something that is on the service schedule but is worth replacing for the hell of it. I've seen some pictures and videos showing the filter having crud on there so was expecting the same with mine.

Simple DIY job, locate the vanos filter cartridge bolt, its a 22mm socket:


278 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

Place some paper towels or a thick cloth underneath the bolt to stop any oil dripping and simply undo the bolt and carefully remove.

You need three things part numbers are:
The Filter Cartridge: 11361401971
Small black O-Ring: 11311318659
Bigger brown O-Ring: 11361403325

279 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

This is the filter cartridge and I was surprised as to how fairly clean it was:

280 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

Simply remove the filter cartridge first with some needle nose pliers. The O-rings, remove the black one first followed by the brown one. Using a small flat head screw driver works best to remove them.

281 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
Refit the brown O-Ring first, followed by the smaller black one and finally clip on the new vanos filter cartridge.

282 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

Then simply refit back into your vanos job done.

Finally took some pics showing off the new amber lights. I recieved my facelift boot lights which I think tie in better. They weren't bad for reps but had a little trouble fitting one side but got there in the end. I bought the front indicators and side repeaters new from BMminiparts. Rear lights I tried to find original amber rears but they are so bloody expensive so gave up and Lamin-X my spare set of lights.

So just a couple of pics to show them off properly. I don't even know if I like them nor do I know why I fitted them but done so for the hell of it and they are what i call a seasonal mod for the summer. Smoked lights will be back on along with winter wheels for winter lol.


IMG_1581 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

IMG_1588 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

IMG_1590 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

IMG_1589 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

IMG_1575 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

IMG_1574 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

IMG_1587 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
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Old 05-16-2013, 04:59 PM   #52
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Your car makes me think dirty thoughts....and those ambers
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:22 PM   #53
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nicely done
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Old 05-17-2013, 03:13 AM   #54
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I like the fronts (isn't odd how just a few years back orange indicators instantly swapped for clear...) but the backs aren't working for me.
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Old 05-17-2013, 03:33 PM   #55
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I like it, and the ACS spoke inserts are pretty boss, you never see those anymore.

Find an Amber LED tail set Improves look massively, for some reason.
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Old 08-07-2013, 06:31 AM   #56
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Not going to say much as I am not sure what to say yet so I'll let the 3 pictures do the talking for the time being.

311 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

312 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

313 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
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Old 08-07-2013, 09:40 AM   #57
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Whoa whoa whoa...

Awesome airbox, but.....those wheel inserts...?!?! I've never seen those before---so awesome!!!1
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Old 08-07-2013, 09:51 AM   #58
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Wow sub'd I like the wheels in you sig better and the cinn interior
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Old 08-20-2013, 04:46 PM   #59
DJ Syxx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gottalovethexi View Post
Whoa whoa whoa...

Awesome airbox, but.....those wheel inserts...?!?! I've never seen those before---so awesome!!!1
Thanks man, you don't see many with the inserts either. Just gives a different look when you want to.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KhanArt View Post
Wow sub'd I like the wheels in you sig better and the cinn interior
A lot of people prefer my winters lol. Cheers dude

So got on with stripping the intake manifold and airbox out.

There is a youtube guide which shows pretty much how you take it out. So I viewed it and thought OK this is looks awkward. So undeterred I got underway with it and found it was actually straight forward and the youtube video guy makes too much of a meal of it! lol. To give you an idea of what is involved and parts you need:

Vent Hose 11 15 7833649. 18 from BM Mini Parts
Air shut-off valve 11 61 7833647 51 from BM Mini Parts
M5 Clamps x6. 07 12 9952125 4.60 from BM Mini Parts

Optional: 6x new throttle body clips.

And you will need a CV boot crimp tool for the throttle body clips to help remove them.

Started by removing the intake plastic, undo the airbox, remove the MAF sensor which you will need a security torx bit (T15) to remove.


314 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

See ya later MAF sensor!

315 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

Unbolt the airbox, there is a hidden bolt under the Xenon ballast and undo the hose clamps and simply remove.

You will need to remove the pollen filter housing and unclip the battery lead and hose from the cable tidy attached to it and remove the breather hoses attached to it and unbolt the dipstick think its 10mm bolt for that one.

The intake manifold is attached on with two 10mm bolts attached to a metal V bracket under the box. You simply need to put your head in and you will see it. A ratchet spanner will be handy to remove them both.

The tricky bit will be removing the hose clamps attached to the throttle bodies specially as you go further up as space is limited. Now if your prepared unlike me you would get a CV boot crimp type tool. You have to squeeze it and the clamp detaches so you can remove. I used needle nose pliers with a screw driver to remove. While not the correct way of doing it got the job done but I would recommend getting the tool bit as you will likely be able to reuse the clips again. Can't use mine again as they are a little weak and bent so will get new ones at a later date with the tool to put them on.

Wiggle the box and eventually will free itself from the throttle bodies. At this stage you want to just loosen it away as you have two breather hoses attached to the bottom of the intake, one fat, one slim.

The fat one is nearest to you and you will see it by lifting the box up and simply unclip.

318 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

The slim one is further at the back and will require you to put your hand under and feel. Once you find it unclip then the box can come out.

319 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

If you have spare time now is a good chance to clean the throttle bodies and was left with this.

316 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

317 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

The dipstick needs to be moved to the side in order for the carbon box to sit. You simply need to move it over the side, grab top and bottom of it and give it a bit of bend just far enough so that it sits behind the strut brace right near the MAF wiring loom case. I used some black cable ties and wrapped it round the dipstick bracket to keep it into position.

320 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

Prepared the airbox by taking the old rubbers off the old plenum by unscrewing them. On the inside of the rubbers it has a plastic clip which you simply remove. Do this for all 6 and then fit onto the new airbox.

321 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

322 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

Rubbers attached to the airbox:

323 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

324 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

Attach the clamps and get them on tight except for the throttle body side end which you want a little loose and can tighten later.

Now before you fit the box on myself and a few others have found the breather hose attachment underneath the box (the slim one) seems to split easily. I was speaking with Crapbag who experienced this and as a consequence the slim hose is a bit loose when you clip it in. I used a cable tie and tightened it up hard to join the split together. Crapbag recommends self amalgamating tape which he used. I will speak to Will at GSR to speak to him about this as I think it needs strengthening or a slight tweak to stop this from happening.

Fitted the box onto the throttle bodies, best to get the ones furthest into the engine bay first and work it in. Now you can tighten the hose clamps on the throttle bodies. I am using normal screw clamps at the moment as mentioned as I screwed up the existing clips. If you use normal screw clamps ensure they don't foul the throttle linkages and are positioned correctly.

Next you want to connect the two hoses underneath, connect the slim one by putting your hand underneath. It should make a loud click when it is in place. I found on mine by having the cable pointing in the 3 o'clock position it clipped in properly.

The fat one is straight forward simply push it on.

Next stage I had to do was modify the rubber intake coming from the brake duct bumper area. As Crapbag showed on his thread he cut his and squeezed it into the rubber. I decided to butcher mine and cut the top half of it so that the mouth piece can fit in and aids in getting it into the engine bay better.

At this stage screw on the IAT sensor as this will make life a lot easier. Evolve sent me out the IAT in advance so that it is ready fitted. Mine is located on the mouth piece directly in the path of the airflow which is a good spot for it.

325 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

326 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

The 4 torx screws that the mouth piece attaches to the box I had to get the middle two on and push at the same time to line up the two outer ones. I found it was best to screw each one in evenly rather than getting just the one in tight.

You then need to fit the two new hoses for the top of the box as the existing ones won't fit.

327 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

328 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

Once that's done I fitted everything back together and started her up to make sure fired up. Got the emissions light on for the MAF sensor which is fine as now have no MAF!


330 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

331 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

Took the steady drive down to Evolve Automotive for its all important new Alpha N map.

Arrived and Imran got on with reading my car via laptop. And Sal later came to wire up the IAT to the MAF wiring loom and upload my new map file.

After this was done I jumped in the passenger seat and Sal took me out to check the map was running correctly. He was satisfied with the map and how it was responding to the car. The midrange was improved and you could feel this in the passenger seat in that the car was pulling better.

Didn't get the rolling road test done as Sal strongly recommended I do the B&Q mod to funnel the air flow better. Took the car and had to do an errand straight after.

I started to noticed the car got better as I was driving and was responding better too.

You also have the loud growl from all 6 throttle bodies and with the foot down to the floor it sings at its loudest.

I covered over 350 miles now and so far no complaints at all. If your driving around normally round town the car drives and behaves completely normal as it did before and your none the wiser.

Is it worth it?

The airbox mod and Alpha N map while its not a massive difference its a noticeable improvement from standard. I have noticed the mid range torque from around 3500rpm onwards improve more and pulls better in all the gears. There seems to be a sense of more urgency when you need to accelerate. With the sport button its better still and responds very well when you need it too.

If your keeping the car its a worthwhile mod but if your only planning to keep your M3 for a few years I wouldn't recommend to and save the money. To break down costs the airbox was 1100, Alpha N mapping and IAT was 599 and adding the few bits I need call it 1800 all in to have it running. Add a bit extra if your paying someone or Evolve to strip and fit your airbox.

Yes you have other options like Supercharging and the money spent on this could have gone towards that route. However I think the M3 is perfect as it is and I think it would take away a bit from the character of the car.

Overall I am happy with the airbox and map and enjoying how the car performs and for me this is about as good as it gets.
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Last edited by DJ Syxx; 09-19-2013 at 10:27 AM.
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Old 09-06-2013, 06:45 AM   #60
DJ Syxx
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Waiting for my photobucket allowance to reset lol so got a carbon rocker cover on now which I think completes it although I do have a fetish for a few more carbon bits for the engine bay. Just trying to decide whether to do it or not! Need to also sort an M badge for the cover so got a temp one on for now.


333 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

334 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

335 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
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