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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 08-31-2012, 03:50 PM   #21
zander271
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I would get it towed out. If towing is free then why risk the expense of over heating your car, crashing it because your PS/power brakes won't be working.

Edit: I must be tired, I missed the bit about the tow truck not being able to get to you.

Last edited by zander271; 08-31-2012 at 04:04 PM.
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Old 08-31-2012, 03:55 PM   #22
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Push it out of the garage, tow it, don't try driving it
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Old 08-31-2012, 04:11 PM   #23
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If you can gather one more person, push it out of there in neutral slowly.
Since you wont have power steering and power brakes, SLOWLY is the keyword. Make use of the handbrake.

And Check the transmission fluid after you roll it on neutral. You might need to top it up or flush.
Our cars are not supposed to roll in neutral.
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Old 08-31-2012, 04:11 PM   #24
IrunBimmer
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Power steering won't work yes but be a man and use your muscles. Ebrake will work fine
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Old 08-31-2012, 04:14 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Wolrab View Post
Somebody already mentioned the godawful heavy steering with no PS. Don't forget you'll also have no vacuum boost on the brakes. Once you get it rolling down the ramp, it's going to be VERY HARD TO TURN AND STOP.
Why no power brakes? They would still work with the engine running.

No water pump and no PS as others have mentioned.
I drove more than fifteen miles after my alternator kicked. Battery will get you far.

If it were me, I'd do it and think you'd have no problem if you did this when there was no other traffic around. If you have to stop for any reason, kill the engine immediately.
I drove my old car a few miles at a time slowly with no water pump. Then pull over and wait fifteen minutes to cool.
Run the engine as little as possible.
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Old 08-31-2012, 04:31 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Stinger9 View Post
Why no power brakes? They would still work with the engine running.
The whole discussion is about running the motor with no belt. Consensus seems to be HELL NO, so he won't have vacuum.
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Old 08-31-2012, 04:53 PM   #27
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Push it to the ramp. Start it, go down the ramp. Turn it off. Push it to the next ramp, wait for a long time for it to cool, start it, drive it down the ramp. Turn it off. That's the best I've got. If it were my car I think I would leave it and come back with the tools later - even renting a car for a week if I couldn't find the tools locally.
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Old 08-31-2012, 04:59 PM   #28
BimmersGarage
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OP,
If you are in a parking spot AND can leave it overnight without it being towed away for illegal parking, then I strongly suggest you leave it and go get your hands on the proper tool and new belt.

Also, I suggest you double check ALL your pulleys to make sure they are not damaged/nicked/MISSING cause they would shred/snap another serpentine. (Which would defeat the purpose of getting a new belt.)

WARNING:
You're vehicle will begin to overheat in about < 7 minutes once you have it in drive. So, set your hidden OBC code to actual temperature.. And, if you attempt to drive it out of that parking spot, you better make sure you can handle the turning and stopping going down the ramps of those three floors, Safely.
Hopefully, you won't come up with some idiot tailgating you to get you to hurry on out of their way in your condition.

Last edited by BimmersGarage; 08-31-2012 at 05:08 PM.
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Old 08-31-2012, 04:59 PM   #29
Alex323Ci
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Originally Posted by dmax View Post
You'd be driving a short distance, so you know, without cooling and without Power steering...and without an alternator.
The cooling is what will hurt you...the alt will stop you.
Remove the remnants of the belt, monitor the temp and don't let it get to warm even, if you can avoid it.
If you're careful, I give you 'my' permission to drive down the three levels of parking garage...and then turn it off immediately. You don't have any cooling at all...so that's the danger. You've got a minute, as the coolant isn't circulating, the temp on the gauge is not reflective of the real temp in the engine.
Very short drive...use engine braking to go down so fuel is cut off in cylinders...and heat won't build up so fast.
I think you can make it...but don't hate me if you don't!
You know, you could start it and turn it off while you're rolling down hill, though you wouldn't have power brakes--they'll work...but be very hard to operate.
agreed. if the car engine is not already hot you will be fine for the 1-2 mins.

my first choice would be push the car (or let coast down) using caution on the lack of power steering. and keep all accessories off that you can.

*if i HAD to drive with the belt off for any length of time and wanted to protect the engine i would run the heater. better the battery drain than the heat gasket blown. neither are good choices though
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Old 08-31-2012, 05:29 PM   #30
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Assuming your car is in Annapolis, if you can wait until Sunday, I could help you change it out if you can get a new belt. I don't have the special tool, but I do have a 32mm wrench and a 5-lbs maul, and I have done this job before. Interestingly enough, the one time I've seen a dealer tech remove an engine fan, that was the method he used.
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Old 08-31-2012, 05:48 PM   #31
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run it from floor to floor in the flats and kill the motor while going down the ramps and use the e brake/brakes you should be easily able to get it down three floors without the motor even getting up to temp
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Old 08-31-2012, 05:49 PM   #32
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You certainly can.

The question you should be asking, though, is "Should I?"
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Old 08-31-2012, 05:51 PM   #33
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Push it down, same thing happened to me had to replace the head. What ever you do don't drive without the belt. Get a mechanic to install the belt on site or push it down the ramp.
My belt snapped on the highway a year ago I thought is was a coolant issue until the engine started knocking, save yourself the headache.http://https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.ne...79432114_n.jpg
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Old 08-31-2012, 05:55 PM   #34
MercForHire
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every e46 auto owner should have this
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Old 08-31-2012, 06:17 PM   #35
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No..

I think most posts above miss the point. It's not how hot the engine gets that will kill you, but how evenly the engine heats up.. When the engine is started cold, the coolant circulation is not meant to cool the engine but distribute heat so that the engine warms up evenly. Without the water pump running, your temp. sensor may not report a high temp on the gage, but that's not the point.. The uneven heating (really really hot at the bores, but really really cold on the outside, front and rear faces) will cause uneven thermal expansion on the head and block and will likely cause head the head bolts to fail. Not to mention warpage...

So don't do it, just find a way to roll the car out of the parking lot. Get the tow truck driver to help you push the car for extra $$$. If it's a manual car, you can push it and use your transmission to slow the car down. If it's an automatic, use the e-brake and be prepared to throw it into park quickly if needed.
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Old 08-31-2012, 06:29 PM   #36
EverydayGetaway
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As Bigloser said, if you're in Annapolis or near it, I would be willing to help too. I don't have the clutch fan tool, but I have a friend who does and I'm sure he'd let me borrow it.
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Old 08-31-2012, 06:29 PM   #37
jdstrickland
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You won't have any power steering, but the short answer to your questiion is, yes.

Drive it to the exit ramp and shut the engine off and coast to the ground floor. It will be a bitch to steer, but not impossible.

You won't have power brakes either.
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Old 08-31-2012, 06:34 PM   #38
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No..

I think most posts above miss the point. It's not how hot the engine gets that will kill you, but how evenly the engine heats up.. When the engine is started cold, the coolant circulation is not meant to cool the engine but distribute heat so that the engine warms up evenly. Without the water pump running, your temp. sensor may not report a high temp on the gage, but that's not the point.. The uneven heating (really really hot at the bores, but really really cold on the outside, front and rear faces) will cause uneven thermal expansion on the head and block and will likely cause head the head bolts to fail. Not to mention warpage...

So don't do it, just find a way to roll the car out of the parking lot. Get the tow truck driver to help you push the car for extra $$$. If it's a manual car, you can push it and use your transmission to slow the car down. If it's an automatic, use the e-brake and be prepared to throw it into park quickly if needed.
Throw a moving car into Park? Seriously? That's a very bad idea. Very bad.

Roll the car down the driveway and be ready for brakes that resist your efforts to apply them. DO NOT PUT THE CAR INTO PARK else the transmission will be destroyed (well, not all of the transmission, just the part that makes it Park) and it still isn't gonna stop.
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Old 08-31-2012, 06:42 PM   #39
sammk
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Originally Posted by jdstrickland View Post
Throw a moving car into Park? Seriously? That's a very bad idea. Very bad.

Roll the car down the driveway and be ready for brakes that resist your efforts to apply them. DO NOT PUT THE CAR INTO PARK else the transmission will be destroyed (well, not all of the transmission, just the part that makes it Park) and it still isn't gonna stop.
Use the e-brake first and then put the car in Park. To prevent the car from taking off. 'That part that makes it Park' is called the Parking Pawl. If you're stopped or slow enough, close to stopping, the Pawl will be fine. No one's asking him to throw it into Park at 40 mph!
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Old 08-31-2012, 06:45 PM   #40
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OP, most likely you won't find the specific tool tonight... get a long 36mm wrench and a hammer, put it on the fan bolt, and give it a nice short wack to the right... it shoule come loose. Try it a few times if it doesn't work the first time.... it will release eventually. Change the belt and don't gamble.
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