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Old 09-02-2012, 11:47 PM   #1
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Fan bolt removal

My fan bolt is frozen. I know it is a reverse thread so clockwise losens it. I have tried heating it and hitting the wrench with a hammer while I hold it with the BMW fan removal tool. Any ideas?
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Old 09-03-2012, 10:24 AM   #2
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Hopfully its not cross threaded on......

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Old 09-03-2012, 10:47 AM   #3
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Use a longer handled wrench...add a section of pipe if you need to on either or both the wrench and the bolt removal tool.

Also, spray pb blaster (or something comparable) and let it soak.

Worst case...remove wp and fan together (if you're even able to do that) and work on it out of the car. Just a guess...I don't know if you have the clearance for that.

I suppose, slightly less worse case, you cut off the end of the wp and again, work on it out of the car...and replace wp of course.

I think more torque will help...hth
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Old 09-03-2012, 12:33 PM   #4
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Old 09-03-2012, 12:50 PM   #5
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Penetrating lubricant like PB blaster, wait an hour, and then use the proper fan nut wrench and pulley holder, preferably put some gloves on to protect your knuckles, and a whole lot of force.
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Old 09-05-2012, 05:22 PM   #6
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Thanks everyone for the help.
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Old 11-03-2013, 04:08 PM   #7
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Fan bolt removal

Finally after more than a year I got my fan bolt off.... I complied everyone's suggestions and a few others. I had to literally bolt the BMW fan tool to the water bump pulley ( it kept slipping off ) then spray with liquid wrench while letting it sit over night and finally put some serious heat to it for about 4 min... Then I was abel to pry it loose with a big ass wrench... now I can proceed with my Vanos rebuild , clutch fan delete / electric fan install and radiator swap. What a relief ....


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Old 12-20-2013, 02:48 PM   #8
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Glad to hear ya got it. I never really thought to actually bolt the tool on, but that's a brilliant idea. That was one of my main issues, holding the tool onto the heads of those bolts while getting enough leverage on the 32mm. I use a 3' length of 1" ID pipe over the wrench for the leverage. I definitely need to do the electric fan conversion. How are you liking it so far?
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Old 12-20-2013, 05:15 PM   #9
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Fan bolt removal

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Glad to hear ya got it. I never really thought to actually bolt the tool on, but that's a brilliant idea. That was one of my main issues, holding the tool onto the heads of those bolts while getting enough leverage on the 32mm. I use a 3' length of 1" ID pipe over the wrench for the leverage. I definitely need to do the electric fan conversion. How are you liking it so far?
Bolting it on was the secret for sure.... And the heat was a big factor.... I am running without the clutch fan and am using only the factory pusher..... I was on the dyno for a few hours pushing hard and the temps never went passed 184f at 740rwhp.... I was using the Motorsport thermostat which makes a big difference... I am still wanting in my new radiator and will only add a fan if I see that it needs it... I don't get that hot of weather where I am maybe 85f max on a real hot day....


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Old 12-21-2013, 09:27 AM   #10
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I don't think removing the mec fan is recommended for M3....

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...=#post15896226

Also the thermostat doesn't make much difference it just makes coolant run through your engine to cool it off sooner than the OEM one. But when it's hot it doesn't matter what thermostat you have because both will be full open thus allowing the coolant to flow.
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Old 12-21-2013, 09:45 AM   #11
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Fan bolt removal

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I don't think removing the mec fan is recommended for M3....

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...=#post15896226

Also the thermostat doesn't make much difference it just makes coolant run through your engine to cool it off sooner than the OEM one. But when it's hot it doesn't matter what thermostat you have because both will be full open thus allowing the coolant to flow.
He's replacing it with an electric fan (read edit)... And if he's running the 55*c stat he will definitely notice a difference, as it's maintaining a different temperature and opening much sooner.

Edit: missed where he said he wasn't running a fan yet.


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Old 12-21-2013, 10:04 AM   #12
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Fan bolt removal

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Originally Posted by BDUB328I View Post
I don't think removing the mec fan is recommended for M3....

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...=#post15896226

Also the thermostat doesn't make much difference it just makes coolant run through your engine to cool it off sooner than the OEM one. But when it's hot it doesn't matter what thermostat you have because both will be full open thus allowing the coolant to flow.
I have run without the mech fan and 55 degree thermostat for about 1000 miles including stop and go traffic and 3 hours of hard dyno time and it ran between 160 and 170 and maxed out at 184. And that's with a turbo . Compared to 80degree thermostat and mech fan I was between 180 and 196... Maxed out at 198...

55 degree makes a big difference for sure...

I'm prepared to put a puller electric fan but see no need given how it runs with my testing. I am also putting in a thicker radiator and should see the temps go down to a max of 175 I'm hoping



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Old 12-21-2013, 10:09 AM   #13
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Fan bolt removal

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Originally Posted by coinage View Post
He's replacing it with an electric fan (read edit)... And if he's running the 55*c stat he will definitely notice a difference, as it's maintaining a different temperature and opening much sooner.

Edit: missed where he said he wasn't running a fan yet.


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Ur right the 55 degree thermostat is an improvement and keeps the temp down. I even had to adjust my tune for warmup / cold start with my piggyback EMS...


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Old 12-21-2013, 10:27 AM   #14
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Yea I'm not trying to argue but when water temp is above 80 degrees it makes no differnce if you have the 80 or the 55, open is open. The reason u needed to change ur tune was because the 55 was opening early and not allowing your temp to get to 80 before opening. Opening before 80 just makes it take longer to warm up to operating temp. Why would you want coolant running through your engine if engine is still cold?

I believe that you haven't had any problems but I'm just trying to give you a fair warning, running no mec fan could be a mistake especially with and engine as nice as yours.
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Old 12-21-2013, 10:47 AM   #15
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Fan bolt removal

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Yea I'm not trying to argue but when water temp is above 80 degrees it makes no differnce if you have the 80 or the 55, open is open. The reason u needed to change ur tune was because the 55 was opening early and not allowing your temp to get to 80 before opening. Opening before 80 just makes it take longer to warm up to operating temp. Why would you want coolant running through your engine if engine is still cold?

I believe that you haven't had any problems but I'm just trying to give you a fair warning, running no mec fan could be a mistake especially with and engine as nice as yours.
I agree it would make no difference at 80 when they r both open.... I believe the difference is that there is more flow earlier with the 55 degree which allows the heat to be absorbed delaying the temp rise and keeping it within a safe range in high boost. With my 80c degree therm it would spike under boost quickly to the 92c and that scared me... Now I seem to have a buffer with the coolant running 70c ... I think if I were to run it in high boost for long periods of time the 55c term would make no difference as u indicated that's why I'm going with a bigger radiator which will dissipate the heat more efficiently.


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Old 12-21-2013, 02:33 PM   #16
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yea big radiator FTW, what brand are you going with?
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Old 12-21-2013, 03:44 PM   #17
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Fan bolt removal

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I agree it would make no difference at 80 when they r both open.... I believe the difference is that there is more flow earlier with the 55 degree which allows the heat to be absorbed delaying the temp rise and keeping it within a safe range in high boost. With my 80c degree therm it would spike under boost quickly to the 92c and that scared me... Now I seem to have a buffer with the coolant running 70c ... I think if I were to run it in high boost for long periods of time the 55c term would make no difference as u indicated that's why I'm going with a bigger radiator which will dissipate the heat more efficiently.


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Agree. I'm curious what difference in temps you would see with a electric fan and shroud.

Also with the 80c stat, it will start to close at 80c with temps falling.

I'm planning on a zionsville w electric fan/shroud, 55c stat on my turbo car


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Old 12-21-2013, 05:30 PM   #18
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Fan bolt removal

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yea big radiator FTW, what brand are you going with?
I'm going with a. Mitsu with their new release in the new year.... I had bought their old version and didn't even open the box... They r going to replace it with the newest version in feb


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Old 12-21-2013, 05:40 PM   #19
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Agree. I'm curious what difference in temps you would see with a electric fan and shroud.

Also with the 80c stat, it will start to close at 80c with temps falling.

I'm planning on a zionsville w electric fan/shroud, 55c stat on my turbo car


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I didn't run the car with the Motorsports clutch fan but I kept the shroud intact when testing... I don't know much about the zionsville but I do like the C & R and if u go with the small spal 1600 CFM fan us should be ok as the radiator is about half an inch or so thicker. It will also just clear the blowoff valve if u turn it sideways on an HPF turbo car.


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Old 12-21-2013, 05:41 PM   #20
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