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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Suspension & Braking

Suspension & Braking
Have some questions about suspension or brake setups for your E46 BMW? Get all your answers here!

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Old 08-13-2012, 11:51 PM   #1
vmals89
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ECS tuning rotors?

I need new rotors and dont have ZCP. does anyone have experience with these?
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-M3-...ors/ES2561992/
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Old 08-14-2012, 12:43 PM   #2
drift.mechanic
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Not those exact ones but floating rotors, depending on your budget, are the way to go.

Almost impossible to have vibration from crooked disks, better heat dissipation (last longer and once again no crooked disks), more even brake wear, the list goes on and on.

The best part is when you need to change the friction surface, keep the hats, buy the bolt kit and friction surface and you're on your way.
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Old 08-14-2012, 07:34 PM   #3
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Thanks. Probably going to go with the ecs.
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Old 08-14-2012, 07:46 PM   #4
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Good call. Let me know what you think after you break them in, I'm in the market and the ECS rotors have an appealing price...
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Old 09-12-2012, 11:52 PM   #5
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Hey i know it took almost a month but I did order them thought and they did just come in. im installing this weekend i let know know how they work out if you are still in the market for knew rotors.
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Old 09-13-2012, 12:38 PM   #6
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Took a while for you to get them!
Let me know what you think of them, give them 300 miles of break in which can cause alight vibrations on braking, a bit of noise or squealing, etc.

Keep us posted!
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Old 09-13-2012, 01:24 PM   #7
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Will do. Installing tomorrow. Any tips to ease the break in??
Thanks!
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Old 09-13-2012, 01:38 PM   #8
drift.mechanic
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Absolutely:
- torque everything to manufacturers specs, including the wheels. Over torqued wheels can cause the disks to warp and damage the aluminum hat.
- the disks will be covered in a rust proof film. Wash the rotors with soap and water and not brake cleaner. Soap and water will not affect the thread locker on the friction ring to hat bolts, brake cleaner will.
- do not put any type of anti seize behind the hat on the hub. For some reason, 2 piece disks hate it. Just make sure the hub is free of any rust, old anti seize or dirt before mountin the disk.
- pay careful attention to the disk orientation. The striations on the disks will indicate their rotation. So left and right are different.
- follow ECS's installation procedure to the letter, there may be subtle differences in the installation compared to one piece disks.

If you have any issues with installation, which I think you won't, message me. I've installed a ton of them, some chassis like them more than others. I've heard great things though about E46's with then and aggressive pads.

BY THE WAY, what pads are you running with the disks?
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Old 09-13-2012, 10:31 PM   #9
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thanks for all the info. I have a friend who has done this before as well but we will definitely check for all the things that you listed. as for the pads i got axxis/pbr metal mashers. also after the install i have heard others say to do 60-10 by slamming on the brakes and repeat this a few to get the pads and rotors bedded. Is this advisable?
Thanks
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Old 09-14-2012, 06:34 AM   #10
drift.mechanic
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That procedure is advisable if you don't mind changing your disks again in a couple months. You're causing the disks to heat up way too fast and unevenly. Not even a 2 piece disk will save you from warping if you break it in that way. But hey it's your car.

The proper way to bed brakes in is simple but long. Immediately after installing the disks, go for a test drive. When coming to a stop, apply the brakes slowly and gradually without jamming them on or modulating the pressure (hit the brake, get off the brake, get back on the brake, etc).

As long as you make sure to brake slowly and consistently for the first 200 miles, you're good.

After the 200 miles, apple the brakes more aggressively without ever locking them. While braking aggressively, do not keep braking as aggressively till you stop (make your head jerk), and slightly let off the brakes to finish the brake evenly and consistently.

After the 400 mile mark (basically 1 tank of fuel) go nuts AFTER checking the brake system. By checking I mean check all torque specs, make sure the disks have not blued or grooved, make sure the pads have broken in evenly.

This is the best way to break in quality brakes. Hey is the disks are work 30$ a piece, hit highway speed and jam the brakes on, a bit different when the disks are over 10 times the price.
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Old 09-14-2012, 01:52 PM   #11
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Ok just got them in they feel super soft. Is this normal?
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Old 09-14-2012, 01:54 PM   #12
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There should not be an increase or decrease in pedal feel when replacing rotors. Did you some how allow air to enter the caliper?
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Old 09-14-2012, 02:07 PM   #13
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After about an hour of driving around town they fell much better. At first i had to press all the way down to come to a full stop but after a while i felt more of a bite when pressing down a bit harder. Thanks for all the help i will be driving back an forth to the city all weekend which is about 50 miles round trip so i will let you know how they feel when i hit the 400 mile mark.
Thanks Again.
Ps they look great will upload pics when i wash the car
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Old 09-14-2012, 10:42 PM   #14
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I think I know what happened.

You compressed the piston into the caliper when changing the pads and disks. You might not have pumped the pistons back to their "out" position cause a serious lack of pedal pressure the first few times you applied the brakes.

I think that's what happened because there is not other explanations.
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