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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 09-22-2012, 04:42 AM   #21
benzovs
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Now that we have the starter kill all wired up, lets give our alarm it's main power and ignition sources. The remote start alarm requires these big gauge connections to be made in order for the alarm to duplicate the same functions the key would make when you get in your car and turn it over. Every manufacturer has proprietary colors, but for the most part; Red is 12v constant, yellow is ignition 1, purple is starter, and brown is accessory. On the e46 we have no accessory wire, so we wont be needing that, but we do have a second ignition wire. Well, this alarm happens to have a second ignition as well, the pink wire. Some cars have 3 ignition wires and up to 2 accessory wires and 2 starter wires. For those types of installations, you must use relays.
[IMG][/IMG]

Now lets go ahead and get the 556uw in, (transponder bypass module).
It's super simple, put the key in the box, and then seal the box back up, plug in your cables, and you are done. There are 3 basic connections to be made; 1. 12v constant. 2. Ground. 3. And ground when running. The module comes with instructions, so you really can't mess this up.
[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

So now lets wire up all of the miscellaneous connections. Like I said at the beginning of the thread, I am not going to show every single connection, if you have come this far, then you can easily read the install manual that came with your alarm and make the proper connections. At this point it's simple connections guys. This is where you will be tapping the rest of your wires; door trigger, trunk release, door locks, hood pin, etc.
[IMG][/IMG]

Here we have most of the unit wired up.
[IMG][/IMG]

One thing I will tell you guys is that you must diode isolate the seperate pin switches and triggers.There are multiple instant trigger sources eg,. hood, trunk, audio sensor, and they all go to one trigger wire, so they must be isolated. Also the ground when armed wire ties into the starter kill and scanning LED, these must be diode isolated as well. I will be including a diode guide as well.
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

Here is what we have so far. I have about 3 hrs worth of work left and she will be all wrapped up. So hopefully I can get it done tomorrow.
[IMG][/IMG]
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 1040_Diode_Application_Guide.pdf (78.8 KB, 95 views)
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Old 09-22-2012, 05:10 AM   #22
benzovs
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Wink

E46 wiring diagram per Directwire

ITEM Wire Color Polarity Location
12v = red/green and red/blue + Ign Harness/Main Harness

Starter = Black/Blue + Ign Harness/ White module
high about driver kick panel

Ignition = Green + Ign Harness/Main Harness

Second Ignition = Purple + Ign Harness/Main Harness

Power lock = blue/red - 54 pin plug, pin 22 at gen mod

Power unlock = white/black - 54 pin plug, pin 20 at gen mod
requires dbl pulse.

Door Triggers = red/blue + 54 pin plug, pin 18 at gen mod

Trunk pin = white/brown - driver kick panel

Hood pin = purple/green - 26 pin plug, pin 7 at gen mod

Trunk release = gray/green + 54 pin plug pin 17 at gen mod

Tachometer = black ac diagnostic plug, passenger side engine compartment. If your vehicle does not have the diagnostic plug, then it will be at the OBD connector under the driver dash, black wire. pin 9

Brake wire = brown/white + brake pedal switch

Horn trigger = purple/blue + Horn relay, right next to fog
light relay.
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Old 09-23-2012, 05:26 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benzovs View Post
I'm not to sure how to post the pics and vid so please bare with me. Pic#1. Here is the unit out of the box.
Pic#2. This is the led after it has been taking out of the case/housing. Pic#3 This is the drive side trim piece that covers the shaft of the rearview mirror mount. Notice all the small center punch indentations. I made those with a hooked pick tool. Pic#4 This is the outside of the trim piece after I have drilled the pilot holes. Use a very small drill bit so that you can try to stay on center. Pic#5 After going through a series of bits, I ended with a 13/64 bit. Pic#6 The leds are now installed and can be seen through the holes. Pic#7 This is the back side of the trim with the led circuit board installed. Pic#8 I have now mounted the trim piece and led on the shaft. It takes a bit of finessing, since the led circuit board has to sit inside a gap thats in the shaft, while at the same time trying to have the trim piece wrap around the front side of the shaft. Pic#9 Here you can see the led wires running through the rear view mirror boot and into the headliner. Pic#10 The final assembly of the led and rear view mirror mount trim piece.
If you guys can help, I want to be able to put the captions and descriptions right above each pic like I've seen in the other DIY. I searched the site but was not able to find out how to do this. Thanks for your patience.
It would've been helpful had you told us that the positive wire needs to go to a +12v constant. And the negative go to a +12v switched, or at least that's what Google came up with. Anyways, I'll take pictures of what mine looks like when I attempt to rewire it. I had it hooked up to +12v switched and the other grounded. Well, more precisely, i had it tapped into the same wires for clown nose. It lit up for a few seconds.
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Old 09-23-2012, 06:47 PM   #24
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You can wire up the led either way. You can make the red lead contant or switched, but it has to be 12v +. The black lead is negative (ground), and can be the wire that switches the LED on. You can choose which way to wire it, depending on where you are tapping into. On most aftermarket alarms there is a wire that supplies a ground signal when the alarm is armed, and it is aptly named "ground when armed wire". Since you want the LED to light up when you ARM the alarm, then it would make perfect sense to tie the ground lead of the led to that wire. If there was a wire that was "positive 12v when armed" then you would wire up the led just the oposite. The reason your led lit up for a few seconds was because where you tapped it into only gave an intermittent pulse, not a constant power supply. If you have any issues or any questions, feel free to ask.
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Old 09-23-2012, 07:28 PM   #25
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So I got the unit all wired up and running. All I have left to do is make the neutral safety switch ( so the car will only start when in neutral) and once that is done I will post pics of the switch install and a video of the alarm in action. All I did in these last pics was clean up the wiring a little so that I could remount the general module/alarm compartment back up on the lock in tabs. I wired up all my relays and mounted them right behind the factory relays. I had to cut away some of that foam material that sits high up under the dash so that I had room for the relays to fit. I used 5 in all; fog lights, trunk release, windows comfort close, windows comfort open, and clutch bypass. The starter kill has a relay as well, but since it's a default one, I don't count it. If any of you guys decide to tackle this install and you need help, just pm me. I can pretty much walk you through any alarm. Thanks for the positive comments.
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 09-24-2012, 03:52 AM   #26
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Where did you tap into for those wires. Please don't say you ran a wire up the front windshield trim on the right. I was trying to avoid that but if it's the only way to get a constant power source, I'll do it. So yeah, tips on where and how you connected it please
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Old 09-24-2012, 12:09 PM   #27
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Yes you have to run the cables up into the headliner through the rubber boot that your rear view mirror cables are in. Once you are in the headliner, you have to go the driver side or passenger side A pillar. Look at the picture where I show the passenger side a pillar. That is where you can run the cables through. It is very easily done with the long zip tie. You can buy it at home depot/ lowes for about $5. If you don't have an aftermarket alarm, then you will have to use a SPDT (single pole double throw) relay to wire up the LED. You will have to use the N.C (normally closed) portion of the relay. You will wire it up to your ignition 12v +. So basically what will happen is when your car is off your led will light up, and when the car is on, it will turn off. If you have trouble wiring up the relay, let me know and I will post a few pics of how to wire it up.
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Old 09-26-2012, 06:23 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benzovs View Post
Yes you have to run the cables up into the headliner through the rubber boot that your rear view mirror cables are in. Once you are in the headliner, you have to go the driver side or passenger side A pillar. Look at the picture where I show the passenger side a pillar. That is where you can run the cables through. It is very easily done with the long zip tie. You can buy it at home depot/ lowes for about $5. If you don't have an aftermarket alarm, then you will have to use a SPDT (single pole double throw) relay to wire up the LED. You will have to use the N.C (normally closed) portion of the relay. You will wire it up to your ignition 12v +. So basically what will happen is when your car is off your led will light up, and when the car is on, it will turn off. If you have trouble wiring up the relay, let me know and I will post a few pics of how to wire it up.
Hey wait a minute. You're telling me they have this SPDT relay where I can connect a +12v switched power to it, and instead of providing power when the car is at least in position 1 of ignition, it'll provide power when the car is off? now would this idea of mine work then? I don't have a ugdo or plan on having one. the power wire for that is a switched source right? couldn't I (yeah, I'm so lazy I don't want to run a single wire) tap my power source from that wire in the headliner somewhere close to the rear view mirror? where would I put that spdt relay at? is there a specific spot it should be at or anywhere along that line? oh and as for the switched ground wire I think you were saying, would that still be required as part of this installation if I chose to go the spdt route? if I still need a switched ground, I'm pretty sure I can't use the clown nose ground, or can I? Please help. I have the led just sitting inside that rearview cover, waiting for power to let it shine. I'll take pics of my setup when I get it lit up.
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Old 09-26-2012, 06:49 PM   #29
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I'm not sure what a ugdo is. But as long as it provides a switched and constant power source then you will be able to tap all your wires there. If you use the relay, then you will have either choice of how you wire your relay. So I will show you how to wire it up with a constant 12v, a switched 12v, and constant ground. Here is a pic of the type of relay you can and can't use for this application. Since you want the led to turn on when the car is off, and turn off when the car is on, you must use a SPDT, not a SPST relay.
[IMG][/IMG]

You can mount this little guy up in the headliner by the sunroof switch. I'm not sure if you have all of the proper signals up in the headliner so you will have to test with a voltmeter or probe.The sunroof switch or dome lights should have 12v constant,switched and ground, but I'm not positive. So what you will need is a constant 12v (this wire has 12v + regardless of key position), a 12v + switched (this wire will have 12v + when the key is in the on/acc, and crank position). What you are going to do after you find your proper wires, ( or run them) is to connect your 12v + switched to pin #85. You will then connect a ground wire to pin #86. You should be able to get ground from the dome lights. Your constant 12v + will go to pin #87a. Pin #87 is not used in this configuration. Now from this point on, wiring up the led is very simple. You connect the red lead of the LED to pin #30 of the relay, and connect the black lead of the LED to ground. Now what will happen is this; whenever your ignition is off, your relay is off, and your LED will receive constant 12v + from pin #30. When you put the ignition switch in the on position, your relay will power on and break the connection from pin #87a and #30, and will turn off the LED. Its very simple once you wire it all up. You should be able to buy a SPDT relay at a local stereo shop for about $6. If not, you can get them online from Sonic Electronix and similar places. If you need any more help, just ask.
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Old 09-28-2012, 01:18 AM   #30
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Neutral Safety switch (NSS)

Ok guys, so I finished up the nss. I'm going to show you guys how I wired it up, and also how I mounted it. Now, you can come up with your own configuration, as long as it doesn't allow the vehicle to start when it is in gear(this applies to manual transmissions). Now I've done this type of setup before. This is probably my 8th time making a nss in a stick shift. The first time I made one was in a mazda 6 back in 03. It as very elaborate, with an actuator and a switch, and it engaged every time you pushed the e-brake button. What I learned as I went through all the other fabrications of the nss was that the less complex it is, and the fewer moving parts it has, the less likely it is to break down. This is one of those examples where KISS (keep it simple stupid) truley comes into play. So this is what I recommend doing, but you can make your own version.
The materials you will need are as follows: 1. Magnetic switch (dei part number 8600) 2. spdt relay. 3. back strap bracket ( the kind that comes in the box of actuators and aftermarket radios). 4. 16 -18 awg wire. 5. 2 inch by 1 1/8 inch u bolt (got mine at Ace for $.99)

Here is the basic diagram of how this nss will be wired up.
[IMG][/IMG]

We will be using our e-brake to supply our ground signal. That way we have a redundant safety system. Not only will the vehicle not start if it is in any gear, but it won't start if the e-brake is not engaged. Disassemble and lift up the center console to access the e-brake wire.
[IMG][/IMG]

Now tap into the e-brake wire.
[IMG][/IMG]

I tapped into 12v swithced at the radio harness. It is violet/white. Then I hooked up my relay and installed it right here.
[IMG][/IMG]

Here is what we want to end up with.[IMG][/IMG]
Basically what happens is this: When the shifter is in neutral, the connection in the mag switch is broken, so the relay remains off. Since we have our e-brake hooked up to the n.c (normally closed) contact of the relay, we have continuity between the e-brake wire (pin #87a) and the nss input of the alarm (pin #30) when the relay is off. So the alarm gets the ground signal from the e-brake and we have a successful remote start cycle. When the shifter is in any other position, the connection inside the mag switch is made, and the relay turns on. Once the relay turns on, the connection between pin 87a and 30 is broken, and we no longer have a ground signal to the alarm nss input, so we get a no crank remote start cycle.

This is how I mounted it. I started by bending the back strap into a horse shoe like shape. That way I could mount my mag switch to the base where the shifter is. I had to take measurements all around the shifter, center console, window switch board, etc. that way I knew what kind of clearance I had and try to make sure my nss would not interfere with anything and have uninterrupted travel.
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

Next I took my u bolt, back strap and the magnet side of the mag switch, and mounted that around the shifter. I put the shifter in neutral and measured the distance between the center of the shifter and the center of the mag switch. I then cut a piece of back strap matching that distance. I mounted the magnet on the tip of the back strap. I first cut the magnet in half. The reason I did that was to reduce the size of the magnetic field, and give the switch a tighter tolerance.
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 09-28-2012, 01:26 AM   #31
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Since the shifter shifts into second and fourth at a downward angle, I had to cut a notch into the back strap so that it would not interfere with the travel while shifting into those gears. Here you can see how the magnet is centered with the mag switch when it is in neutral.
[IMG][/IMG]

Here the shifter is in gear. Notice how there is not much distance between the magnet and mag switch when it is in gear. . If you do not cut the magnet in half, it is likely that the switch will still see the magnetic field at this distance. With the magnet cut in half, this space is big enough for the switch to close and active our relay, rendering our remote start useless.
[IMG][/IMG]

Well fellas, that's about it. If I left anything out, feel free to say so or ask any questions. I will take a video of the whole thing in action as soon as I get my car washed, it is filthy right now

I hope you guys enjoyed and it will be of some use to you.
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Old 10-01-2012, 12:04 AM   #32
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Alarm videos

I finally got the car washed so I was able to shoot the videos I had promised earlier. In this first one I show how the windows go down by using one of my channels. Then the windows automatically go up when I arm the alarm. I show my led in action and the fog lights as well. I don't like the arm/disarm confirmation chirps, so I programmed the alarm to arm/disarm silently. I get arm/disarm confirmation through my remote, led, and fog lights.

I then go to show the remote start feature. The led and the fog lights turn on when the remote start is activated. You can see that the car shuts off the second I move the shifter from the neutral position. Then I put the car in gear and show that it will not start, and then I put it back in neutral but release the e-brake to demonstrate that the vehicle will not start that way either.

I tried to show all the 2 way pager confirmations, but the lighting for the remote made it very blurry.



In this next video I show how the DEI 506t audio sensor works. It only takes one tap for the alarm to trigger. The only thing I dislike about 2 way pager alarms is that you can't disarm the alarm while the pager is receiving info. You have to let the alarm finish transmitting the signal to the remote before you are able to send the command from the remote to the alarm to disarm. That is usually about 5-7 seconds. Viper alarms don't have such a long lag time.


As always, any questions or comments feel free to post.
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Old 10-03-2012, 03:24 AM   #33
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Hey thanks for the tip about the relay. It works however, the only SPDT I could find was at radio Shack but it was a pc relay. I wired it up and it did work but it was a little ghetto so i decided to order one online. I'll send pictures when a real setup has been done. I had a question, would you happen to know if a passive keyless entry system would be possible? If so do you know how to customize one? I'm sure it'll be similar to this but with more add on. I would love to be able to walk up to my door open it and then push button start. They have this kit I want to buy but i dont know if it'll work or how to hook it up.
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Old 10-03-2012, 03:46 AM   #34
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Nice write up man , my 330 has remote start , factory alarm and viper alarm and it's all built into my factory keys
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Old 10-03-2012, 01:42 PM   #35
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I'm glad that you got the led to work.

Quote:
I had a question, would you happen to know if a passive keyless entry system would be possible? If so do you know how to customize one? I'm sure it'll be similar to this but with more add on. I would love to be able to walk up to my door open it and then push button start. They have this kit I want to buy but i dont know if it'll work or how to hook it up.
I think what you are talking about is the RFID keys, right? You most definitely can use that type of system. You would still have to use the 556uw transponder bypass with the second key, but other than that, it would be an install really similar to this. The one I have personally used is one called Advanced KEYS-AK-104B.

It is not a full on alarm, but just a keyless and remote start. To make it a real keyless system, you have to bypass the steering column lock feature on the vehicle, that way you don't ever have to use the key. You can either disable the locking mechanism within the steerng column, which I don't know how difficult it would be in this car, or you can just insert the key and cut it off with ignition in the on position. Of course you would use a key without the transponder pellet.

If you have experience installing alarms, then the install manual would walk you right through it. However, it would be a real challenge if it is your first time doing something like this, not impossible though.

Quote:
Nice write up man , my 330 has remote start , factory alarm and viper alarm and it's all built into my factory keys
Today 01:24 AM
Thanks! I see that your 330 is an 06. Yeah, that year they dropped the transponder system that we use in the 99-05 e46, so Viper was able to come up with a better and easier to use bypass module. Do you have the smart start? I really like Viper systems myself.
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Old 10-04-2012, 02:15 AM   #36
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I know this kind of sounds a little bit out there but would this be an even possible idea. Could I skip the bypass module by dismantling a key, insert the blade into the ignition with it turned to the on position, somehow wire whatever wire that connects that to ews? To a push button start so that it' the button that dictates whether the car is on/accessory, or ignition/kill switch? The only reason I ask is I can program my own transponder key so i practically have unlimited key slots at my disposal.
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Old 10-04-2012, 02:19 AM   #37
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Oh and yeah I meant the rfid system. I find it convenient not to have to pull my keys out. It would be of great help. I always end up with things (or daughter with things) occupying my hands and having to take my keys out (or wonder which pockets I have them in) is quite bothersome.
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Old 10-04-2012, 02:01 PM   #38
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Quote:
I know this kind of sounds a little bit out there but would this be an even possible idea. Could I skip the bypass module by dismantling a key, insert the blade into the ignition with it turned to the on position, somehow wire whatever wire that connects that to ews? To a push button start so that it' the button that dictates whether the car is on/accessory, or ignition/kill swithc?
That wouldn't work. If you dismantle the key, you take the transpoder pellet out of the key, and then the transponder ring would not get the rf signal, so the EWS would not engage, and thus we end up with a no crank situation. I'm not 100% sure what circuits the EWS disables. I know that it disables the starting circuit. But a lot of times, factory transponder systems disable one or more circuits; starter, fuel, ignition, etc.. What I'm trying to get at is this; if I knew that the EWS only disabled the starter system, then yes, we could disable it (bypass it) without a bypass module. HOWEVER, that is a big risk to run.

You would essentially be making your vehicle susceptible to being hot wired, the old school way. So even if the EWS only disabled the starter circuit, I would NOT recommend going that route. All you would have to do is this. Use the 556uw transponder bypass with a second programmed key and don't cut the key, or disassemble that key and only put the tranponder pellet side in the 556uw case. You still have the protection of the EWS since the 556uw is only activated by the rfid system (which is essentially your key), and second, even if a thief somehow got inside your 556uw and pulled out that key, it would be uncut or incomplete. So he'd be SOL. The 556uw is less than $20 and super easy to wire up. I mean super easy.
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Old 10-04-2012, 08:58 PM   #39
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Oh ok. I thought the bypass module would be a lot more expensive. I was thinking of also leaving the transponder somewhere close to the key. I mean the only way the thief could get pass my system would be to have the rfid chip. Unless they had a lot of time to remove by rfid system and rewire the system back to default so that the system wouldn't need an rfid since the key and chip is all there. Plus it would more than likely be an inside job for them to know that's how I had it setup. Lol. Im not so sure my car would be that valuable to anybody to go through all that trouble.
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Old 10-05-2012, 03:02 AM   #40
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My Ride: 2001 bmw 330ci
wSince you're fairly familiar with security systems at least more than I, maybe you could give me some clues as to where to look. I explained a bit about my situation on my ak90 thread. Now after i coded my keys the chirping, clown nose, and turn signals all worked. The first to go was the siren. I'm sure none of this is a fuse issue as well since I tested the lines for power but im not getting a ground, which its because they're switched grounds, i dont think know. It may have happened around the same time I was rewiring electrical connectors in my engine bay that my belt shredded, which I'm not entirely sure I did it the correct way. I mean. They happened to be, from what I assume all ground wires because they (3 or 4 wires) belonged to the same bundle and we're all the same red/white color. I couldn't think of any other logical reason why bmw engineers would bundle 4 wires all the same color in the same bundle when the other wires were all different colors. I tried wiring them separately to each other first and seeing if my car would eventually register them as being correct and after all possible let combination's, i concluded that none of it would provide full connects to all the units in disconnected. Maybe one or 2 units got recognized but for some reason, these 4 wires showed like 8 different disconnected engine functions. Anyways I decided to say screw it and wire them all together, which ended up working. The car liked it. The next to go was clown nose, that was when I was installing the ghetto relay, which I think I might've accidentally touched wires I wasn't supposed to to each other causing a short. Coincidentally, it's part of the security system. Then i get the check engine code saying the sensors, led, and siren are either shorting or disconnected. I saw a wiring diagram of my car showing that they all end up grounding to a common spot but that location is unknown to me. Any idea where this might be? Maybe it's disconnected somehow.
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