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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 10-05-2012, 07:10 PM   #41
NumbaOneNewb
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Nevermind. I think I figured it out. I noticed with parents soft when you run identification in the beginning, a pop up appears with info about your car. At the bottom it lists your vehicle order options. I swear dwa should be an option on there but it's not! So I'm going to code it using ncsexpert and see what I come up with.
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Old 10-07-2012, 10:56 PM   #42
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Ok. I figured it out. My stupid a$$ had been messing with the zke GM5 central body Electronics recently, the one behind fuse box I glove compartment and i guess I didn't plug in the 26 pin harness into its connector properly. I only found this out (although I did intend on looking here as the next troubleshooting attempt) while I was doing an alarm install. Everything works again.
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Old 10-07-2012, 11:02 PM   #43
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Thats good. It had to have been something that was disconnected or had lost power with all of those functions going out on you all at once.
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Old 10-08-2012, 01:15 AM   #44
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Yeah. I guess the trouble code 7 I was getting wasted of some truth. It said my led, siren, tilt and motion sensor (the last 2 I don't even have so at least I could narrow it down to 2) was either grounding out our open circuit. Anyways, i was going in that area to attempt and install my own customizable alarm system, thanks to the influence of your diy. I was actually using your guide as a reference, that and a wiring schematic I found useful being able to give me a technical layout of my gloves box compartment. I found a shock sensor by dei for only $13, which I stumbled upon in accident while on my search for that relay I needed. Now let me ask you, I saw a DIY guide in regards to this shock sensor thing and the person said they had wired it up to the hood pins connection. The sensor didn't come with any instructions but not seems pretty straight forward, however what is your recommendation on a good wire to feed off of.? And say i do decide to go off the hood, would you recommend adding a diode or does it matter? By the way, I stopped my installation only because I saw that not only you but the manual for my control module on this siren I bought did so as well. They said it'd be better to isolate the armed ground wire coming off the starter killer or something from my siren. Not sure why but it looks like I need several diodes. The door contacts, hood/trunk pin switch and others only are of different wires yet must connect to limited wires on my module. Before, i didn't feel it necessary to install an alarm system but i saw this voice module siren, something I always wanted back when it first came out and was extremely cool to have and nobody really had it, but now is ancient history. Since it has now faded away forever forgotten to our civilization, i decided now would be the time to get the unit for myself, and it helps it has become affordable. What i like about this particular siren is that it allows up to 9 customizable warnings and you can use the siren with a mic as a public announcer. I was thinking of some cool possibilities and so far thought for lock unlock chirp be either r2d2 sounds or maybe that noise transformers make while transforming. For the warning, maybe the clip off star trek from the ships computer advising of the auto destruct sequence initializing. Would that be cool or what? Lol.
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Last edited by NumbaOneNewb; 10-08-2012 at 01:43 AM.
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Old 10-08-2012, 11:55 AM   #45
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Does your car have a factory alarm system right now? I would have to look into it to figure out how to wire up a shock DEI shock sensor to the factory alarm. . But the basic function of the DEI shock sensor is simple. It has 4 wires on the harness; Red, Black, Blue, Green. Red gets constant 12v +. Black is your constant ground. Green and blue are your negative trigger outputs. One is a warn away, and one is the full trigger.

So when someone bumps or physically tampers with your vehicle, the shock sensor translates the vibrations into negative pulse outputs. Well you have to have something that receives those negative pulse outputs (an alarm) and uses them to activate a siren or sometype of alerting device (lights, horn, 2-way pager, etc...). If the BMW factory alarm has trigger inputs like aftermarket alarms do, then we most likely can tie the sensor into the factory system.

If you don't have a factory alarm, we could hook up a shock sensor to a siren or horn but it would not operate in a very desirable manner. It would require the use of a relay. But the output from the shock sensor is very brief, so the siren would only chirp. Your best bet would be a true alarm system. I'm not sure how the user you read about tied his shock sensor to his hood pin. The hood pin is a trigger source, just like the shock sensor... The only way I see them existing in the same cirtcuit is if they are feeding into an instant trigger wire and being diode isolated from one another, but again, the instant trigger wire is something you find on an alarm system.
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Old 10-08-2012, 01:27 PM   #46
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Yeah. All US e46 as far as I know come standard and pre wired for an alarm system. Pretty much BMW tried confusing us and trying to make more money. I read that the alarm system on e46 is the actual dme unit itself. The trigger inputs of which I did personally see myself when I unplugged my zke GM5 central body Electronics. What i dont know what or how to do is wire the warning away function. The instant function looks straight forward. Maybe I'll look at that guys diy again but yeah he tapped into the hood pins wires no diode I believe. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=383883 well there's the link. He doesn't show how to hook up the warning away message. Now, the tilt sensor, which I assume would be the same thing? Usually goes in the trunk. It also has 4 wires. Of all of those 4 wires provide the necessary functions that the shock sensor is bought needs I should be able to tap into it right? No diode even necessary?
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Old 10-12-2012, 07:18 AM   #47
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Oh yeah, forgot to post a pic of the scanning led. Thanks again for the idea. I have received a lot of stares just from that alone. It's unique a, div very bright at night. My buddy even asked me if i could disconnect it because it was too flashy. I told him heck no.Click image for larger version

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Old 10-12-2012, 11:13 AM   #48
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Looks good! Oh yeah, I did take a look at how that shock sensor was plugged into the OEM hood pin. So it's basically what I thought, the wire he taps into is a trigger wire for the OEM alarm. So when the hood pin opens, it send a signal to the DME and that triggers the alarm. So if you put a shock sensor, and wire up the trigger wire (green or blue, your choice) to the hood pin trigger output, then it will work. YOu should diode isolate it though, just to be safe. A pack of 2 diodes are around $2 at the shack. Use 1 amp diodes model 1N4007. Look at the diode tech sheet on how to wire it up, if you need a diagram, let me know.
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Old 10-12-2012, 11:40 PM   #49
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Thanks a lot. You've been extremely helpful with any and all questions that I had. It's funny people aren't all over this topic. I mean you sure do have a lot of people viewing this so a I guess people are curious. It is intimidating, even for someone like me and I consider myself quite knowledgeable in all things electronics. At the moment, even though I'm constantly being pulled away from my project because of work, I find just a voice module tedious. Of course if we spend time doing a clean job, it doesn't matter if it takes longe It is well worth installation.
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Old 10-13-2012, 07:58 AM   #50
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Oh yeah. Another quick question. So if you're saying that the method that one guy used to hook up shock sensor to hood works, in theory, i should be able to hook it up to any location so long as i can connect to a trigger right? I want to put it in the trunk may where the tilt sensor would have originally went. I'm sure the wires are there for me to connect. I mean i guess I could do it up front but my car produces a lot of heat and electronics don't like heat.
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Old 10-13-2012, 11:25 AM   #51
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Yeah you can do that. The shock sensor doesn't have a lot of range. It usually covers about half of a vehicle really well, and the other half not so well. Since the typical entry point or target area for thieves is around the drivers side window/door, shock sensors are typically placed in the front area of the vehicle. So you have to consider that when choosing a location for your sensor. You can mount it inside the car, behind the glove box, and then run your wires through the factory boot like I did with my siren and tach wire. The hood pin is right next to that boot and your sensor would be mounted away from the hot engine compartment.
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Old 10-13-2012, 12:44 PM   #52
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Ok. Sounds like i have me some options. Behind glove box sounds like a good idea. Thanks. Technically, if I mount it behind the glove box, I don't think I would even need to tap into the hood trigger right? I know the dwa system is right there so I should be able to choose from multiple triggers.
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Old 10-13-2012, 04:07 PM   #53
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That is very true. You can find the hood pin or tilt sensor trigger wires at the dwa and hook it up to either one.
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Old 10-15-2012, 03:33 AM   #54
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Hey i had a couple of quick questions. I'm having problems finding the ground when armed wire. Your guide did show mainly the orange wire, the one that was used after tapping the original but not much in the original. Actually, unless the armed when ground was that purple & white (mine happens to be purple & yellow) that i saw at fuse #14? If so, can I tap into it from there? Now I didn't make myself a starter killer relay or anything is that necessary? I don't have a remote start and i always thought that the ews was the starter (fuel) kill. Or was it just a starter block we can say, if the incorrect transponder was used. Now say that purple & white wire at #14 is it and I don't use a starter killer relay, can I just diode the line that i use to tap into that wire or must I diode both my wire and the #14 wire before they both reach the fuse. Or maybe I got it all wrong? Lol
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Old 10-15-2012, 12:38 PM   #55
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The ground when armed wire is the orange wire, and it comes from the aftermarket alarm. I doubt that the dwa has one, but it's possible it does. The purple and white wire is the starter interlock circuit. It could be that it is purple/white on one side of fuse #14 and purple/yellow on the other. You do not have to use a starter kill relay. The only reason why I use one is if a thief would somehow get my key. But yes, for the most part your EWS is the starter kill, is activates the starter interlock and disables the fuel pump and ignition.

If you go back and re-read the starter kill section, I edited that part. I came to the conclusion that using the starter interlock wire was probably not a good idea with a remote start alarm. I didn't have any problems with my alarm, but after thinking it through a little, I decided that it could cause problems to the EWS and DME starting the vehicle while the starter interlock circuit was interrupted. Why are you needing a ground when armed output? Maybe we can find out if the dwa has such an output. If not, maybe we can figure out how else to do what you are trying to accomplish.

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Old 10-15-2012, 12:55 PM   #56
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Old 10-15-2012, 11:09 PM   #57
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I bought a dei voice module and wanted to incorporate it into my oem custom alarm. Lol. I just wanted to add a little flavor to it. Thanks for the tip about the relay. Man those things are so useful. I never knew. How to use them until recently with you putting this guide out. I mean, the uses for these seem endless. So let me go over with you how I plan on hooking it up to create a ground when armed, sort of. Not a true ground when armed but good enough for me and I hope it works. Like usual, I'll run a constant power and a ground to 85 & 86. For 30 I plan on just grounding it and for 87a, I'll designate that as my ground when armed. Would that work? Oh yeah, what should I diode and what diode do you recommend? If you have any recommendations as far as wiring a true ground when armed, i would like to know by your input.
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Old 10-16-2012, 12:49 AM   #58
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Yeah, relays have a ton of uses. I've done sooo many cool, crazy, and useful things with them. Well... your idea is right on track, but it's not going to give you the desired effect... and here is why: The DEI voice module (516 L) requires trigger inputs and sometimes even a siren input. So it is tied into your door trigger, trunk, hood, etc. Heres basically how it works. When you arm your alarm, the ground when armed wire tells the voice module to turn on and start working. Whenever the voice module sees a trigger signal (usually a negative pulse) it then alerts you with a message. In a way, it's an alarm itself.

So lets play out your scenario. You hook up your relay as you have intended and when you turn off your car the relay sends out a ground signal to the voice module and powers it on. Well, when you walk back to the car to get in it, the second you open your door, the voice module is going to see that ground signal from your door trigger wire and it's going to activate the alert message. The same will happen if you open your trunk. What you need is a remote that controls that ground when armed signal so that you activate the voice module when you arm your alarm, and deactivate it when you disarm your alarm.

So you say you only have the factory alarm. Well I am 99% sure that we can use the clown nose wires to give us a ground when armed wire. Your clown nose works right now correct? Well what I need you to do is grab a multimeter and tell me what kind of activation the clown nose uses. What side of the led circuit is constant and which one is pulsed? How long are the pulses and what voltage. Once we get all that info, we are going to use this little device called a "universal trigger output module". It's made by PAC and called a TR-7. We use that in conjunction with a relay, and presto, we have a ground when armed signal. Once we have that, we can wire up your voice module all tied into your factory alarm.
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Old 10-16-2012, 01:00 AM   #59
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Lol. I totally didn't see that effect coming. Ok, so far I know it's the negative that pulses. I believe the red is. Somewhere around 5 volts, I'll double check the length of pulse and voltage on the negative wire. See the things is I think the stock alarm has a ground when armed. I tried tapping into not but it didn't work for some reason. Maybe I wasn't doing it right. There's this wire they call stdwa on factory alarm. I believe it's pin #5 black red and black. It runs all the way to the trunk where the tilt sensor is, connects to the sensor, and comes back to insert into pin #6t as red and black connected to central body electronics, the middle harness. I tested it for current and got around - 900 mA. Right now my scanning led has similar issues. It blinks when car is off.
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Old 10-16-2012, 01:13 AM   #60
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You can get by with your led blinking when the car is off, because essentially that is when your alarm would be armed. Well, take another look at that wire and see if it gives you a ground signal when you activate the dwa. 900ma is more than we need to drive a relay. When you are testing the red/black wire, are you using a multimeter or test light/probe? Is the signal constant or a pulse. You need to use something that lights up red or green, letting you know if the signal is positive or negative. I mean, you could use the multimeter if you have nothing else. Just let me know and I will tell you how to test for it properly.
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