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DIY: Do It Yourself
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Old 10-16-2012, 02:43 AM   #61
NumbaOneNewb
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Well according to the bmw wiring diagram which I'm almost 100% sure its the right wire. When I tested it using a multimeter, I'm not sure I tested it right because earlier, I had deactivated all the sensors since I don't actually have any of them. I'll reactivate them for test purposes. According to the wiring diagram, the stdwa wire which they designated to be located in the rear happens to tie in all the sensors in the car. I can't think of any other reason why bmw would do that other than as they stated, which is the ground when armed wire. I believe the tilt, motion, siren, led and some others are grounding to this. Here's a link http://wds.spaghetticoder.org/en/svg...8074.svg?m=E46 see if you can make heads or tails from this. What i gathered from other diagrams of the general module, the stdwa is an output, while the (ng) red and black comes out of the tilt sensor and goes back to the general module. I'm guessing that's what we would consider the trigger wire....Maybe.
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Old 10-16-2012, 02:21 PM   #62
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You are right. The STDWA is the dwa ground when armed wire. So we should be able to connect your scanning led and the voice module to it. I think you should use a relay to bump up the current, and then diode isolate them from each other. If you need a diagram, I can sketch one up for you on paint. Send me your email. Check out what I found after doing some research. You can read it all, but look at the DWA section. Tells us all we need to know.
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Old 10-16-2012, 03:18 PM   #63
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Oh yeah I have that document, that's how I discovered the stdwa wire. What i dont get is when I tapped into the stdwa wire, with a diode, the 4001 diode, it still didn't work. I know the module is working because it has a pa function and that works. Perhaps not enough current like you said. I would love a diagram on that please. One more question, the module requires for my door contacts to show ground when a door is open. On that same document, I'm not sure if this matters but it claims when door is closed, current is less than 5mA and open greater than 12mA. This leads me to believe that I have a positive trigger not a negative one like i need, meaning I would need once again, the handy dandy relay right?
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Old 10-16-2012, 03:31 PM   #64
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Oh and also, I think this is so cool that even after the first e46 rolled off the assembly line headed for the US back in 99 that 13-14 years later, there's still stuff being discovered about it, mainly relating to electronics and software. Mechanical work has been mostly all talked about but these type of things haven't received that much coverage. I'm guessing because if it's about a car, it's mainly mechanical but nowadays, more and more electronics is being installed on our vehicles.
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:36 PM   #65
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Yeah, lets continue it here. The voice module will need to see atleast the door trigger in order to activate. I think you should use the trunk and hood triggers as well. When you change one polarity for another (negative to postive, vice versa) you only need a SPST relay, UNLESS, you require the output to rest at a specific state eg... positive, negative, etc. So let me make a diagram and we will go from there.
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Old 10-16-2012, 07:05 PM   #66
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Polarity change with a relay

Here is how you are going to change the positive pulse from the door trigger into a negative pulse. You can use a SPST relay since 87a is not needed.


When your door opens, it send a positive signal to the relay, that energizes the relay and the switch moves to the N.O contact, 87,30. So you will get the ground signal coming into pin 87 to go out through pin 30 whenever you open your door. Just send pin 30 to the input for your door trigger on the voice module and you're good to go.
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Old 10-16-2012, 09:22 PM   #67
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Wow. Of course it looks all simple now that you showed me how to do it. Lol. I was getting all complicated with the wiring when i was thinking of how to do it myself. Thanks. I'll let you know what's up.
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Old 10-16-2012, 10:29 PM   #68
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Hey, pin 18 is the trunk release and foot well light on mine. There's 2 wires that i dont know where to pick from. Either 18 & 2 labeled as lock driver and passenger door, or 26 & 25 driver passenger door contact. http://www.bmwgm5.com/GM5_Connections.htm the first 2 are red and blue, which I saw somewhere else it claims that color wire would be the contact wire, however, I'm aware that a lot of diagrams show different colors all the time. What is more important are pin locations in the plug, i think. The last 2 are 3 different colors
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Old 10-16-2012, 10:47 PM   #69
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Just sent you the directechs to your email. Make sure you are in the 54 pin plug on the general module and not the 26 pin plug. There is more than one red/blue wire so you have to make sure your at the right plug. It's really easy to test, if you have a test light that shows positive/negative. I have 2, one is a power probe that hooks up to the battery, and the other is a snap on one that plugs into your cigarette lighter. But the cool feature they both have is the led lights up green for negative, and red for positive. So determining polarity on a wire is very easy.

What you would need to do is let the general module go into consumer save mode, it does after 16 mins of the door being open. At that point, the red/blue wire loses it's + signal. You would probe the wire and then open/close the driver door or turn on the dome light, anything to wake up the gen mod. If you see a positive signal come on that red/blue wire, then thats your door trigger.
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Old 10-16-2012, 11:06 PM   #70
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Adding aftermarket peripherals to OEM alarm.

Here it is newb.


A couple of things I wanted to point out: I think you might need to program the dwa in NCS just to make sure that the STDWA is functioning. Maybe it doesn't send out a ground when armed signal unless you program the DWA properly. Second, I am able to power up a few peripherals with my aftermarket ground when armed wire, and it only gives me 150ma. So if the STDWA has a current rating of 900ma, then it can handle the led and voice module just fine. When it is in it's OEM configuration it activates 3 peripherals; motion sensor,tilt, and siren.

Notice the orientation of the diodes. Cathode faces the general module. It allows ground to go out of the general module to the voice module and led, but ground cannot go back to the gen mod. On the hood and trunk trigger it's the same principle; ground goes out of the trunk and hood pin to the voice module, but it cannot feedback into the hood pins. Use 1 amp 1n4004 diodes.

I don't know what color the STDWA wire is, but the hood pin is purple/green with a negative polarity at the 26 pin plug and it is pin #7. The trunk pin is white/ brown with a negative polarity and it is in the driver kick panel.

Last edited by benzovs; 10-17-2012 at 12:29 AM.
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Old 10-17-2012, 12:25 AM   #71
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Quote:
Hey, pin 18 is the trunk release and foot well light on mine
I just reread this and noticed it. Your foot well light is essentially your door trigger wire. Think about it.... when you open your door what happens? Your interior lights turn on. That includes your foot well lights. Well, it turns out that a positive signal turns on your foot well lights, and a positive signal is what we get out of pin #18 on the 54 pin plug, color red/blue, when we open your door. So yes! Pin #18, foot well light, is the same as your door trigger.
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Old 10-17-2012, 12:55 AM   #72
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You know, I was suspecting that would be the case but these diagrams become quite confusing sometimes, especially when im not too familiar with them. I'm in the process of wiring up my relay and am glad to hear that we've nailed down the right wire. I can't wait to get this thing working properly. Now I know you said it was pretty easy to run a wire down pillar a so ill try that. I know I have to disconnect battery to remove pillar cover to prevent discharging of air bag. Don't want that to happen. Oh yeah, another question, the voice module that i have is the dei 516l. It allows me to customize my own sounds for warnings and such. So far from what I am able to understand, I know I can do recordings for zone violation, warnings and violations itself but can you look at this manual i have of it and tell me if the chirping function can also be customized. That's the whole reason I got it. I wanted to do like, maybe r2d2 or transformers transforming for the lock unlock but it's not really saying which wire I would hook it up to for this option. Plus there are 3 wires labeled custom auxiliary recordings wire or something like that. Where the heck do I hook this into? Lol. Sorry, one more question. My shock sensor. I know where 3 of the 4 wires go. The 4th is a warn output. I'm not sure if that goes to the voice module or my dwa. The harness they gave me is a little weird too. One end, it is a 4 pin plug, all the wires in their own slot with the 4th slot, warning output dangling by itself not connected to the other plug. The other end is same 4 pin connector but the warn output doesn't connect to the other end of the output. It loops right back into the alarm output, so from pin 4 to pin 3. What the heck?
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Old 10-17-2012, 01:32 AM   #73
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He wait a second. I just now noticed, can't believe it took me this long, that you have an e46. Duh, why else would you be on this forum. Lol. So, wouldn't your car have a stdwa wire as well? All US e46 came with alarm pre wired. It's pin 6 on plug x254 gm module black/blue. I think my 900 mA rating was too high up there if you're saying your aftermarket only does 150ma. No way it could have that, right? On top of that, my voice module i think needs at least 500 mA for itself.
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Old 10-17-2012, 11:50 PM   #74
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Yeah, the remote start install was done in my vehicle. I would imagine I do have the STDWA, but since I don't have the scanner or NCS I can't program the DWA function. And I believe that the STDWA won't have any output until the DWA is activated. Well, I gave your question some thought and here is what I came up with: The arm/disarm message on the voice module is triggered when the voice module sees the ground when armed signal. So the only way to access the custom recorded messages is when the voice module sees a trigger on one of the message input wires.

If you read the manual for the 516 (voice module) when you get to page 5 it goes into detail as to how the custom messages get triggered. What we want is for your voice module to say your custom message when you lock/ unlock (arm/disarm) the vehicle. Well your default message of "system armed" cannot be deleted or recorded over. So you are going to hear that every time you lock/unlock the vehicle.

What I figured out was a way for you to trigger your custom message right after your default message. So it will say "system armed" and then play your custom recording. I should point out that I have never installed one of these voice modules. I saw one in action when I was about 12 years old, and never saw one again. You would think that after all these years I would have at least installed one, but not a single customer has ever requested one. That being said, I don't know all the intricate details about this module.

Ok... so lets get into it. Here is the basic idea; when you hit your lock button on your fob, your dwa should send out the ground when armed signal and turn on the voice module, then your default message plays. When you hit the lock/unlock button on the fob the door lock wire sends out a pulse as well. You are going to tie the door lock wire into one of the message input wires, and the unlock wire into another message input wire, these are the signals that are going to trigger the custom messages. HOWEVER... the ground when armed signal has to get to the voice module BEFORE the door lock signal does. The signals cannot get to the module at the same time. The unlock signal is just the opposite, it has to get to the voice module before the ground when armed signal goes away.

To accomplish these tasks I have came up with this little diagram/schematic. You are going to use a RC (resistor capacitor) time delay circuit for the lock wire, so that it gets to the voice module AFTER the ground when armed. And you are going to use a PAC TR-7 with delay turnoff programmed on the ground when armed wire, so that the unlock wire signal gets to the voice module BEFORE the ground when arm signal goes away. You can use a time delay relay for the lock signal if you prefer that over the RC time delay. I also believe that you can use the STDWA without a relay. It's very likely that the DWA provides 900ma out of the STDWA seeing as how it is meant to be tied into 3 devices. Besides, I've tied 3-4 peripherals off of my ground when armed wire that supplied 150-200ma and its worked just fine.

Now I have some caveats: 1. I don't know if the factory lock/unlock pulse duration from the gm5 is 0.8 seconds or less. In order for the voice module to only give a single message, it has to receive a warn away pulse, and that is a signal that is 0.8 seconds or less. Most likely it is, but I'm not 100% sure. 2. You might be able to skip all of those timing circuits by sending the ground when armed signal from the voice module straight to ground instead of the STDWA. The module would be on all the time, but it would minimize the complexity of the circuit. 3. Aftermarket alarms usually shunt some trigger inputs for a few seconds when initially armed. So what does that mean? It's possible the voice module won't recognize a trigger input on the message input wire until it has stabilized after a few seconds after arming. All that would mean is that you would have to delay your lock signal longer. 4. You could avoid all of this by using the voice module in it's intended manner (but whats the fun in that?!!) 5. Even when the module is working properly in it's default state, if it draws 500ma, that's a significant amount of current draw. That can drain a fully charged battery in under a week (without running of course).

The shock sensor full trigger wire (green) can be connected to the gm5 if you have the factory siren, if not, hook it up to the blue wire on the voice module. So lets get on with the pic.

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Old 10-18-2012, 12:05 AM   #75
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Wow many. I bow to you. You definitely known your stuff and can easily be designated head guru of electronic security. I don't think I've managed to stump you yet. Lol. Alright, I just finished wiring it to work as basic as possible, and of course, it doesn't work. Lol. I'll need time to go over what I did and swallow some material being dished out at me. Blah! And I thought I knew electronics! On a side note, I was able to successfully update my dme and egs (auto transmission) software using WinKFP. I'm now running on European settings and boy oh boy. I tell you what, the increase in throttle response, low end torque, elimination of top speed limiter (useless but cool), stabilizing idle, and more pep overall feels great. I didn't really enjoy the longer gears 1-4 however. If the car had more hours it'd definitely be useful. Succeeded at one only to go back to the drawing board on another. My gut tells me it has something to do with the stdwa wire which I did activate. Will go get a test light tomorrow and with dmm, probe around. Thanks for all your help. You deserve the credit. I noticed many views are continuously piling on to your thread. People want to know about stuff like this, subjects others shy away or just don't post entirely.
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Old 10-18-2012, 12:07 AM   #76
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Quick question. My glove box trigger should be in a diff circuit right? I wonder if having my gloves box detached would in any way disrupt anything. I don't think it would. Just a thought. Nah, it can't be. I'm sure its the stdwa. I know that the dwa will attempt to identify whether or not those sensors are functioning if they're activated. You can tell it's looking for them when you arm the car. The clown nose will blink rapidly for several seconds indicating that before going back to its regular steady pulse.
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Old 10-18-2012, 12:25 AM   #77
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I highly doubt that having your glove box disconnected would cause you to not have an output at the STDWA. Don't just get a regular test light. Get one that indicates polarity. Like this one: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog. It doesn't have to be that exact one, but make sure it has a polarity indicator.
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Old 10-18-2012, 12:35 AM   #78
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Hey i noticed something while driving off. There's a feedback type whining noise coming perhaps from my front door speakers as I accelerate. This has never happened before. I'm positive its due to something I did when wiring. I wonder what that could be.
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Old 10-19-2012, 12:05 AM   #79
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Thats weird about your engine noise problem seeing as how you haven't touch any of your audio wiring/components. Have you? I was looking at the diagram for the gm5 and it claims that pin #6 on the 26 pin plug is the tilt sensor output. Back in post #59 you said that you were testing pin #5 for ground when armed, and the diagram claims that pin #5 is the tilt sensor input. So next time you're testing it out, check pin #6 and see if that is the STDWA out.
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Old 10-19-2012, 12:50 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benzovs View Post
Thats weird about your engine noise problem seeing as how you haven't touch any of your audio wiring/components. Have you? I was looking at the diagram for the gm5 and it claims that pin #6 on the 26 pin plug is the tilt sensor output. Back in post #59 you said that you were testing pin #5 for ground when armed, and the diagram claims that pin #5 is the tilt sensor input. So next time you're testing it out, check pin #6 and see if that is the STDWA out.
I believe you're right as well. That's actually what I'm about to write to you about. I'm sending this short message to grab your attention and will be editing it with some things I found out which I'd like you to look at. the feedback noise is now gone so I don't know what the heck that was. Lol. Okay, here I go.
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