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Suspension & Braking Forum by BimmerWorld
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Old 04-25-2010, 10:05 PM   #1
DualZ
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Swaybar endlinks, possible alternatives for lowered/slammed cars

I am going to lower my car on coilovers and need to replace the swaybar endlinks to compensate for the drop. From searching I have managed to figure out the following:

-Ideal size for endlinks 7in
- 2008 chevy impala ss rear endlinks may work
- Autozone P/N 18365(what car is this made for ?) may work
- 2001 toyota corolla rear endlink

I haven't seen any pictures of these alternatives working but im sure there is a possibility, wanted to know if anyone had any more info on endlinks that will work. Please say the make/model/year of the car they came from

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Old 04-25-2010, 10:11 PM   #2
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E36 M3 end-links (comparison to E46 end-link):
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Old 04-25-2010, 10:15 PM   #3
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is that short enough though? only looks like its about 3/4" - 1" smaller

After a little searching I believe the 2005 - 2008 Buick Allure Sway Bar Link Kit REAR (MOOG K6662) will work.

I just need to know make/model/year so I can order the part from one of our suppliers at work.

There are a few post with autozone or advance stock numbers but those wont help me get them from my supplier
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Old 04-25-2010, 10:16 PM   #4
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The Autozone part #18365 actually are the Impalla SS ones. I am actually the one who discovered this through working there. Ive been slammed on them for about 5 months with 0 problems. You will actually be amazed at how well they fit for being a chevy impala part, everything is spot on. took me a while to locate, had to go through every box 1 by 1!
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Old 04-25-2010, 10:20 PM   #5
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I was about to buy the e36 ones till I discovered these. Also got a discount which affected my decision. They are shorter than the e36 ones as well, lined up perfectly.
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Old 04-25-2010, 10:28 PM   #6
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anyone know if they will work on an Xi? The swaybar links are heavier on an Xi from what I've read... also, please clarify the swaybar issue. I've lowered my Xi 1.5" using a H+R and Bilstein setup.. My swaybars still seem to have full range of motion. Been getting mixed answers when I posted a thread previously (several months ago).... I understand the concern and reason to use shorter links is because the lowering reduces the range of motion of the swaybar??? But mine seem to still have full range of motion; so what's the "deal"? Done alot of work on suspension setup and want to ensure I'm receiving the full benefits..... TMS also has adjustable links for the Xi. Should I go with these and reduce the length by the 1.5" drop I've introduced?
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Old 04-25-2010, 11:27 PM   #7
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Old 04-25-2010, 11:35 PM   #8
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Im running the ones from an SS impala. Like chad said functions great 0 problems.
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Old 04-25-2010, 11:51 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nachos23 View Post
anyone know if they will work on an Xi? The swaybar links are heavier on an Xi from what I've read... also, please clarify the swaybar issue. I've lowered my Xi 1.5" using a H+R and Bilstein setup.. My swaybars still seem to have full range of motion. Been getting mixed answers when I posted a thread previously (several months ago).... I understand the concern and reason to use shorter links is because the lowering reduces the range of motion of the swaybar??? But mine seem to still have full range of motion; so what's the "deal"? Done alot of work on suspension setup and want to ensure I'm receiving the full benefits..... TMS also has adjustable links for the Xi. Should I go with these and reduce the length by the 1.5" drop I've introduced?
Go get the impala ones and see how they compare to your oem ones. If they dont look like they will get the job done return them
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Old 04-25-2010, 11:55 PM   #10
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Go get the impala ones and see how they compare to your oem ones. If they dont look like they will get the job done return them
thanks! Still curious as to the "need" for them..... IS there restricted movement of the swaybar requiring this mod? How can I tell if mine is restricted or limited? When I recently had the front suspension off, it didn't seem they were being impacted by the lowering..... can someone please explain in a little more detail as to the effect of lowering on the swaybar. I've heard talk of pre-loading on lowered cars..... is that the concern?
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Old 04-26-2010, 06:40 AM   #11
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Old 04-26-2010, 11:24 AM   #12
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If you search Adjustable end links by me you will find some info on where to get any size you like.
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Old 04-26-2010, 11:31 AM   #13
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From reading this thread, i feel like a total noob.

I currently have eibach springs with koni shocks.

How important is it to replace the endlinks to compensate the drop? Is it needed for regular street driving?
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Old 04-26-2010, 11:42 AM   #14
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Doesn't the sway bar pivot? Can't you swing it down a little bit for different sized endlinks?
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Old 04-26-2010, 12:13 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by bimmer dude xi View Post
from reading this thread, i feel like a total noob.

I currently have eibach springs with koni shocks.

How important is it to replace the endlinks to compensate the drop? Is it needed for regular street driving?
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Old 04-26-2010, 12:32 PM   #16
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I have B&G adjustable endlinks. My car is slammed and the endlinks still have a decent amount of room to go shorter or longer. Zero problems with them.
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Old 04-26-2010, 02:05 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer Dude Xi View Post
From reading this thread, i feel like a total noob.

I currently have eibach springs with koni shocks.

How important is it to replace the endlinks to compensate the drop? Is it needed for regular street driving?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Focal E46 View Post
Doesn't the sway bar pivot? Can't you swing it down a little bit for different sized endlinks?
That's the question being considered.... I've heard decent arguements on both sides of position. The swaybar twists in order to operate; the twisting is resistance against flexing (caused by load; cornering, etc). For it to operate properly, there can't be any pre-loading (stress with no load; sitting still) and the swaybar must have full range of motion. From what I can see, and from tests I've run, the swaybar doesn't appear to be pre-loaded @ 1.5" drop as both sides drop equally. There appears to be full range of motion to respond to torsioning/loading........ BUT I continue to read about adjustable links and pre-loading, so I to am looking for a definitive answer in regards to the purpose of the shortened links.... Only thing I can see is by using the original endlinks on a lowered car, the "rest" position of my swaybar is stightly lower than stock, but still appears to have full range of motion. As you go lower than 1.5" there likely is a point where the lowering has affected the swaybar's ability to counter loads....due to interference with body parts... Thats what I'm trying to establish.

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Originally Posted by be-doubleyou View Post
I have B&G adjustable endlinks. My car is slammed and the endlinks still have a decent amount of room to go shorter or longer. Zero problems with them.
. Did you leave the links stock length or reduce length due to lowering? If you did shorten; why? Did you see an issue with stock length?

Keep in mind guys, Xi links are considerably more $$$ than other 3-series links and so far, I've only seen them @ Turner Motorsport...

Here's a link to the thread I started in Feb regarding swaybar pre-loading. http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...845&highlight=
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Old 04-26-2010, 02:15 PM   #18
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im looking into ground control front endlinks. i just need to measure my current ones so i can let them know what lenght i want.
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Old 04-26-2010, 02:57 PM   #19
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That's the question being considered.... I've heard decent arguements on both sides of position. The swaybar twists in order to operate; the twisting is resistance against flexing (caused by load; cornering, etc). For it to operate properly, there can't be any pre-loading (stress with no load; sitting still) and the swaybar must have full range of motion. From what I can see, and from tests I've run, the swaybar doesn't appear to be pre-loaded @ 1.5" drop as both sides drop equally. There appears to be full range of motion to respond to torsioning/loading........ BUT I continue to read about adjustable links and pre-loading, so I to am looking for a definitive answer in regards to the purpose of the shortened links.... Only thing I can see is by using the original endlinks on a lowered car, the "rest" position of my swaybar is stightly lower than stock, but still appears to have full range of motion. As you go lower than 1.5" there likely is a point where the lowering has affected the swaybar's ability to counter loads....due to interference with body parts... Thats what I'm trying to establish.

. Did you leave the links stock length or reduce length due to lowering? If you did shorten; why? Did you see an issue with stock length?

Keep in mind guys, Xi links are considerably more $$$ than other 3-series links and so far, I've only seen them @ Turner Motorsport...

Here's a link to the thread I started in Feb regarding swaybar pre-loading. http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...845&highlight=
I replaced my OEM end links that were shot with Hotchki's FRONT end links and they are the same size stock when fully compressed, which confused the hell out of me. I'm not sure why they would make them longer. I put them on and screwed them down as much as I could (stock length) and just rotated the sway bar down some so it wouldn't bind up the end link joint. Everything seems to have been working fine since then and I may have only rotated it down an inch.
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Old 04-26-2010, 02:58 PM   #20
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K folks, just got off phone with Turner Motorsports.

I think we've finally got the answer.

1. The way to establish if you have pre-loading. Jack car and undo 1 swaybar link. With car on ground (level surface) see if you can align swaybar that link with mounting hole on strut. NOt much room and you'll be on your back to check. If it aligns without an issue, then you have no pre-loading and DON'T NEED adjustable links . If it doesn't align, you have preloading to one side and will need adjustable links to correct (unless tracking and intentional).

2. Adjustable Links; non-adjustable lowered suspension. If you are running a non-adjustable lowered setup (such as mine; Bilstein and H&R sport), then unless you see an issue with mechanical interference or ride height, you don't need adjustable links. By ride height I mean, although non-adjustable setups should be identical on both sides, that is sometimes not the case (variances in manufacturing/QA). conduct the test above to ensure your suspension had no pre-loading due to these differences. A quick way to check is measure ride height from top of wheel well to ground and compare sides... THEY SHOULD BE IDENTICAL!

3. Adjustable Links; Coilover/adjustable lowered suspension. If you are running a coil-over or adjustable height lowered setup (Bilstein PSS, etc.), then you should definitely have adjustable links. The reasoning is that with adjustable setups, you can't GUARANTEE similar ride heights on both sides because of the infinite amount of adjustment available. A marginal height difference on either side will cause pre-loading and the need for adjustable links.

4. Adjustable links; rear suspension. run same test to determine if pre-loading exists. Another consideration for rear suspension which is worse in the rear; is swaybar mechanical clearance. Unlike the front which has ample room and clearance for the swaybar the rear is quite a bit tighter for clearance (both top and bottom), so an adjustable link should be considered if there are concerns about clearance. Again, with a minimally-lowered suspension, this should not be an issue (but worth checking).

So there you have it. I want to thank Drew @ TMS for his assistance in finally clearing this up for me and hopefully others.
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