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Suspension & Braking Forum by BimmerWorld
Have some questions about suspension or brake setups for your E46 BMW? Get all your answers here!
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Old 09-24-2012, 03:43 PM   #21
trj
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Originally Posted by E46Mango View Post
BMA didn't always offer Meyle HD arms, certainly not for the price oembimmerparts was offering. i haven't checked in a year. either way, the pricing is competitive, if not the same.

As far as fcabs, I'm talking about w/ brackets. IIRC, poly fcabs themselves are about $80. factor in aluminum brackets.

http://store.bimmerworld.com/powerfl...hing-p281.aspx

Don't try to question me. If i say something, there's a specific reason I'm saying it.
I was talking about the Meyle HD FCABs pressed into the carriers from BMAparts for $78 and not $150.
Come on Mango, on a gloomy monday you got to cut me some slack.
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Old 09-24-2012, 03:47 PM   #22
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Read my post again. I said Poly w/ brackets will cost about $150.

You replied and said they won't cost anywhere near $150.

It's sunny here in socal.
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Old 09-25-2012, 09:56 AM   #23
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1) you meant nuts, not bolts.

2) you guys should be using brand new genuine bmw nuts regardless of what control arms you install. these nuts come with locking inserts and do not need loctite.

just some tips
Yeah, yeah. It never hurts to add blue loctite, though. Red may be a different story.
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Old 09-25-2012, 10:04 AM   #24
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Yeah, yeah. It never hurts to add blue loctite, though. Red may be a different story.
If BMW doesn't specify it should be used, I don't use it.
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Last edited by Mango; 09-25-2012 at 10:04 AM.
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Old 09-25-2012, 02:07 PM   #25
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After recently doing an oil change I had my car in the air and noticed I could grab the front drivers side wheel and was able to wiggle it a little bit. Obviously there shouldn't be this much play in the wheel and started to think that it was because of my FCAB's needing replaced.

In my searching I found myself asking if I needed to replace just the bushing or the actual control arm as well? I'm assuming it would be smart to do both sides at once?

I found these and will probably buy them since the vibration I get in my steering wheel (only when turning to the right at high speeds) is getting bad enough that I need to address it. Any knowledge or help is greatly appreciated. Hopefully I covered everything enough but if not I can fill in the blanks if need be.
Replaced mine last week. Just the big bushes not the whole assembly. Car was pulling to the left and tramlining a bit. Cured the problem. When the control arm bushes wear the steering geometry changes the faster you go and can lead to an increase in the toe-out of the front wheels (and toe-in at low speed) which, in turn, causes wheel wobble. When you say "grab the front drivers side wheel and was able to wiggle it a little bit" I would suspect track rod ends (item 7 * 2 in link pic) rather than CABs but they are not that difficult to replace, although the adjusting nuts (Item 8 * 2 in link pic) can be a bit stubborn so you might need to heat them up to crack them off. Of course the wobble from the worn CABs can cause the track rod ends to wear rapidly so I wouldn't be surprised. I suggest you change the CABs and see how she is after that. BTW. DON'T GET UNDER THE CAR UNLESS ITS ON STANDS.

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...40&hg=32&fg=25

Here's a guy doing the job.

A lot easier when you are standing up than when you are on your back I know but it is doable. This guy uses a special tool to push the old ones off. You can also use a three legged bearing puller to pull them off instead. This car is a Z4. Mines an SE Coupe and there is a brace that gets in the way of the CAB bolts which you have to remove but that's no big deal. The rest is pretty much as you see.

Here's another one This is probably a more familiar scenario to most of us who don't have a hydraulic lift.

Last edited by RayPooley; 09-25-2012 at 02:44 PM.
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Old 09-28-2012, 07:43 AM   #26
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So there is a new issue with this now.


The mechanic I usually go to for things I am unable to do (inspection, alignment, so on and so on) tells me that their alignment machine is broken and they won't have another for a few weeks. My car needs inspected and I would prefer to get them (inspection and alignment) both done at the same time.

My question is: Is it better to drive my car wish bad bushings or to drive it without an alignment?


as always, your help is appreciated.
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Old 09-28-2012, 07:47 AM   #27
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So there is a new issue with this now.


The mechanic I usually go to for things I am unable to do (inspection, alignment, so on and so on) tells me that their alignment machine is broken and they won't have another for a few weeks. My car needs inspected and I would prefer to get them (inspection and alignment) both done at the same time.

My question is: Is it better to drive my car wish bad bushings or to drive it without an alignment?


as always, your help is appreciated.
It depends on how long. After the bushings your alignment won't be terrible, but it will not be very good. If it's just a week you'll be fine. Once you do it for a long time you'll start wearing your tires noticably. It's really up to you.
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Old 09-28-2012, 09:20 AM   #28
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It depends on how long. After the bushings your alignment won't be terrible, but it will not be very good. If it's just a week you'll be fine. Once you do it for a long time you'll start wearing your tires noticably. It's really up to you.
I juts don't want to further damange anything in the suspension by continuing to drive on the bushings. But I also don't want to mess up my tires.


I'll probably just change them out and wait to get an alignment, unless somebody convinces me otherwise.
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Old 09-28-2012, 12:54 PM   #29
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when i changed to meyle HD wishbones the toe went out by 1+ degrees and tyres wore to cords in about 1000 miles. after fitting bones measure toe like this:

make sure you measure @ same height about 5 inches up if you can.
for BMW spec, the rear measurement should be 2 mm more than front or you can try 0 toe in which case front and back measurement will be same
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Old 09-28-2012, 12:58 PM   #30
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I juts don't want to further damange anything in the suspension by continuing to drive on the bushings. But I also don't want to mess up my tires.


I'll probably just change them out and wait to get an alignment, unless somebody convinces me otherwise.
That's what I did. I drive 80 miles round trip to work everyday and the old bushings made me feel unsafe. I decided i would rather buy a new set of tires than sideswipe somone at 80 mph because my rtabs or fca/fcab decided to shift over a bridge lip. My tires ended up having no noticable wear by the time I got a toe alignment. Now I need to schedule a camber/castor/toe alignment to get everything perfect. Maybe Ill wait for new struts/shocks for that.
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Old 09-28-2012, 01:18 PM   #31
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Thanks for the input guys. We'll see how it goes tomorrow morning.
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Old 10-01-2012, 07:49 AM   #32
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The CA's were much simpler then I expected. The worst part was taking off the nut on top of the Inner Ball Joint. Those two took longer then installing the actual control arms.

Just need an alignment now and I should be good to go. Thanks for all your help!
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Old 11-25-2012, 06:20 AM   #33
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I did my cars's rear bushes and it took about 2 hours total, including setting out and cleaning up. An easy job on ramps with the handbrake on and a brick for a chock under each rear wheel. No issues...as a trick, use dishwash soap to lubricate the rubber and shaft before fitting new bushes...then they slide on easy and soap doesn't damage the rubber as a lube. Also, don't use a puller to get of old bush, just screw rip the mounting bracket off as they are damaged anyway...then cut off the remainder on the shaft with hack saw...easy, took just a couple of minutes for each!

Car drives so tight now in braking and steering!
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