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Old 02-12-2014, 09:31 PM   #1
charofire
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testing check valve

Quick question. I disconnected my 2nd air pump pressure hose, and I was able to manually blow air through the check valve only when I hooked up my Mittyvac and applied vacuum through the nipple. When I released the vacuum, I was unable to blow any more air through the check valve. So it appears the check valve is OK. However, when I reattached the 1/8 vacuum hose to the check valve nipple, and turned the car on (thus creating vacuum by running the engine), I was now unable to manually blow air through the air valve. Why would this be the case?
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Old 02-12-2014, 09:51 PM   #2
jfoj
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SAP Kombi valve only has vacuum applied for the first 90 seconds on cold start or I believe starts below 100F engine temp?

Just hook your Mighty Vac up to the vacuum hose, start the engine in the morning and see if there is vacuum at the Mighty Vac. You are using it as a vacuum gauge at this point.
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Old 02-13-2014, 10:25 AM   #3
charofire
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No vacuum when I started it up cold this a.m. So either a break in the line that goes around towards the firewall, or a bad vacuum control switch? The best way to test that switch is to hook up my Mittyvac directly to the outlet of the vac swith nipple and try on a cold morning again?
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Old 02-13-2014, 12:15 PM   #4
cvx5832
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charofire View Post
No vacuum when I started it up cold this a.m. So either a break in the line that goes around towards the firewall, or a bad vacuum control switch? The best way to test that switch is to hook up my Mittyvac directly to the outlet of the vac swith nipple and try on a cold morning again?
Yup, you're doing it right. Time to trace it upstream. See if the small line from the firewall is pulling vacuum on a cold start. That will tell you if it's the line and/or the switch at the back.

See page 6 on the attached. It tells you how to proceed.

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Attached Files
File Type: pdf 2008_n408_newsletter.pdf (1.65 MB, 22 views)
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Old 02-13-2014, 03:50 PM   #5
cvx5832
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charofire - got your message. Hopefully this answers your questions on the valve's orientation. Posting here for future searchers' benefit.

intakemanifoldvacuumrea
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Old 02-14-2014, 12:35 AM   #6
charofire
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Is it also possible that vacuum is not reaching the secondary air valve is because the round black and white looking check valve is faulty (11611312737) and NOT the vacuum switch?
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Old 02-17-2014, 07:43 PM   #7
jfoj
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Yes, or the vacuum check valve could be installed backwards.
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Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose fan switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 03-19-2014, 10:08 AM   #8
charofire
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Gentlemen, I wanted some more input. I have replaced the vacuum switch with a new one. I have checked the hoses and orientation as the picture above shows. When I hooked up my gauge to check for vacuum after the car was off for 12 hours, I did not get any vacuum. I replaced rubber where I could - most of the line going around the firewall and the cylinder head is a plastic line. My new vacuum switch does not seem to be getting power to get vacuum through for the first 90 seconds in the cold a.m. Is there a fuse that would control the vacuum switch getting power that may be blown? I also tested the bad vacuum switch with a power probe once I had removed it - it worked fine.
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