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Old 04-14-2017, 01:35 PM   #1
PancakeBimmer
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Another one bites the dust

Watched 50skid video about engine compression test after rebuild and it reminded me to recheck my engine.

It has been almost 5000 miles since initial overheat.

Cylinder 1: 185
Cylinder 2: 175
Cylinder 3: 120
Cylinder 4: 180
Cylinder 5: 140
Cylinder 6: 180

I also did compression test at 3k and 4k. At 3k cylinder 3 was the only one standing out at 170 compared to ~180 for other cylinders. At 4k it dropped down to 160 and cylinder 5 was at 170, while other cylinders still held strong at ~180. All tests were done after car was warmed up and DISA removed.

There is a guy selling rebuilt cylinder head from 330 so maybe I will go with rebuild to 330...

So yeah, how is your Friday?
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Old 04-14-2017, 01:53 PM   #2
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I'd get a leak down test also before counting it out. From what i hear compression tests aren't always 100%
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Old 04-14-2017, 02:00 PM   #3
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I'd get a leak down test also before counting it out. From what i hear compression tests aren't always 100%
At least he will know if it is leaking from intake valve, exhaust valve or piston rings...
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Old 04-14-2017, 02:06 PM   #4
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I'd get a leak down test also before counting it out. From what i hear compression tests aren't always 100%
I want to but the only local store that has one is harbor freight. Gonna have to order and wait for it to come.
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Old 04-14-2017, 02:09 PM   #5
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Just couple weeks ago I posted how excited I was about good results from block tester...
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Old 04-14-2017, 02:11 PM   #6
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Symptoms?

You could replace your cylinder head and still have weak compression if your rings are messed up. The compression test is a snapshot of instantaneous compression. if your reading is low at one cylinder, then its usually your piston rings unless your valves are pretty bent out of shape. so use both compression and leak tests before hurrying up and getting an engine. Of course you could also have a headgasket leak in which case you'd only need a headgasket and/or resurface your existing cylinder head.

in other words, you should probably have a pro look at this before getting into it too far.
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Old 04-14-2017, 03:05 PM   #7
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Well, couldn't borrow leak down tester and harbor freight is 5 minutes away so I went and got it. Tested on cylinder 1 and it leaked out of crankcase a bit. Went onto cylinder 3 and it leaked to nearby cylinders imminently. Closely to 80psi the coolant level started to raise and spill out. I removed the bleeder screw and burbling can be heard from there.

Didn't bother with other cylinders.

P.S. Second gauge on tester was **** out of the box...
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Old 04-14-2017, 03:07 PM   #8
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rebuild or used engine time.
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Old 04-14-2017, 03:09 PM   #9
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Well, couldn't borrow leak down tester and harbor freight is 5 minutes away so I went and got it. Tested on cylinder 1 and it leaked out of crankcase a bit. Went onto cylinder 3 and it leaked to nearby cylinders imminently. Closely to 80psi the coolant level started to raise and spill out. I removed the bleeder screw and burbling can be heard from there.

Didn't bother with other cylinders.

P.S. Second gauge on tester was **** out of the box...
Warped cylinder head and or blown head gasket. (Probably both) If you didn't have any smoke while running the piston rings may be OK. You will definitely need your cylinder head rebuilt and resurfaced or replaced.
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Old 04-14-2017, 05:03 PM   #10
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rebuild or used engine time.
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Warped cylinder head and or blown head gasket. (Probably both) If you didn't have any smoke while running the piston rings may be OK. You will definitely need your cylinder head rebuilt and resurfaced or replaced.
Yup. At this time I am leaving it as is until my wife's 330 is driveable, but even then doubt that I will come back to my E46. On the bright side, all the new cooling parts from my car can now go on my wife's car
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Old 04-14-2017, 05:56 PM   #11
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Yup. At this time I am leaving it as is until my wife's 330 is driveable, but even then doubt that I will come back to my E46. On the bright side, all the new cooling parts from my car can now go on my wife's car
Gotta look at the bright side lol
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Old 04-14-2017, 06:08 PM   #12
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UltraGauge Plus is $80, get cheap phone vent mount and you are set.

http://ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/ultragauge_wired.htm

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Rotati...one+vent+mount

You can set Max/Min Alarm thresholds for Temp, Voltage and the Gauge will alert you if and when a Pending or Hard Trouble Code has popped up. You can read and clear codes with this as well.

Best $80 you will spend.

Put one of the Wife's car before she overheats if. BUT she needs to LISTEN to the alarm and LOOK message/display, then SHUT the engine down. Not drive home another 30 minutes and walk in the door and say honey the thing was beeping at me!!
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Old 04-14-2017, 06:21 PM   #13
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I'm confused, are you overheating or having cooling issues? What prompted you to even do a compression test? If air is going into the cooling circuit, I'm surprised you didn't have some kind of major coolant loss.
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Old 04-14-2017, 07:42 PM   #14
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UltraGauge Plus is $80, get cheap phone vent mount and you are set.

http://ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/ultragauge_wired.htm

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Rotati...one+vent+mount

You can set Max/Min Alarm thresholds for Temp, Voltage and the Gauge will alert you if and when a Pending or Hard Trouble Code has popped up. You can read and clear codes with this as well.

Best $80 you will spend.

Put one of the Wife's car before she overheats if. BUT she needs to LISTEN to the alarm and LOOK message/display, then SHUT the engine down. Not drive home another 30 minutes and walk in the door and say honey the thing was beeping at me!!
I was going to look up something like that and have it in wife's car, but here you are Thank you

Quote:
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I'm confused, are you overheating or having cooling issues? What prompted you to even do a compression test? If air is going into the cooling circuit, I'm surprised you didn't have some kind of major coolant loss.
Coolant loss is very very minimal. What is very noticeable though is excessive pressure in coolant hoses, especially upper one. More troubling is the fact that expansion tank cap doesn't release the pressure (I installed 1.2 bar cap couple months ago).
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Old 04-14-2017, 08:01 PM   #15
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Personally on a car this age, I would be looking at a short cut solution. It may or may not work. I know there will be PLENTY of comments, but what the hell, if it works and save you the time and money from pulling the head and will get you another 25-50k miles out of the car, it is worth a shot.

I cannot say that I have any specific experience of these specific products, you may need to search and read reviews. Also REMEMBER that in many cases these products may not work, but this may not mean they are bad products, it may be a case where an additive is not going to work due to the damage and size of the leak.

Here are a few possible options:

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-401232-Pe...+gasket+repair

https://www.amazon.com/BlueDevil-Pou...+repair+sealer

https://www.amazon.com/FiberLock-Hea...+repair+sealer

I am sure the haters are going to come out on this, but the sooner you get on a product like this, the more likely it may work!

If you need to pull the head anyway at the end of the day, you are only out the cost of the additive and a good coolant flush.
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Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

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Old 04-14-2017, 08:16 PM   #16
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OP, if the engine doesn't show any symptoms i.e. losing coolant without leaks, mixing coolant and oil, etc. it may be smarter to do nothing except to keep monitoring these things.
As others mentioned, it will be useful to perform a leak down test - I'd rather make a decision to move forward with a major engine work or swap based only on compression test data.

EDIT: Ops, missed one of the posts, looks like the damage is there...

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Old 04-14-2017, 08:32 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
Personally on a car this age, I would be looking at a short cut solution. It may or may not work. I know there will be PLENTY of comments, but what the hell, if it works and save you the time and money from pulling the head and will get you another 25-50k miles out of the car, it is worth a shot.

I cannot say that I have any specific experience of these specific products, you may need to search and read reviews. Also REMEMBER that in many cases these products may not work, but this may not mean they are bad products, it may be a case where an additive is not going to work due to the damage and size of the leak.

Here are a few possible options:

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-401232-Pe...+gasket+repair

https://www.amazon.com/BlueDevil-Pou...+repair+sealer

https://www.amazon.com/FiberLock-Hea...+repair+sealer

I am sure the haters are going to come out on this, but the sooner you get on a product like this, the more likely it may work!

If you need to pull the head anyway at the end of the day, you are only out the cost of the additive and a good coolant flush.
I might as well try that. In worst case I will be out couple bucks like you said. Best case it will seal up enough to stop blowing/pressuring cooling system.

There is no plan to keep this engine for long time. If it wasn't for my dumb-ass I would have already bought salvaged M3 for $2k and gotten over with the swap. They don't come that cheap very often, but if anyone has some connections or can hookup with engine,tranny,driveshaft, and rear subframe for $2k please haul at me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Megalocnus View Post
OP, if the engine doesn't show any symptoms i.e. losing coolant without leaks, mixing coolant and oil, etc. it may be smarter to do nothing except to keep monitoring these things.
As others mentioned, it will be useful to perform a leak down test - I'd rather make a decision to move forward with a major engine work or swap based only on compression test data.
Yeah, damage is already there. Pressure in cooling system. Overheating once cooling system is over-pressurized. ET Cap doesn't release pressure because Idk. Been though five already.
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Old 04-15-2017, 12:52 AM   #18
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NOT drive home another 30 minutes and walk in the door and say honey the thing was beeping at me!!
Sadly that's exactly what happened to my 2004 Japan Rot 325Ci a couple years ago. She pulls into the driveway and I hear the engine clatter from inside the house. I run out and she says, "Honey, the car sounds..............different."
Temp needle is pegged, no coolant left, blown head gasket from ruptured cooling system. Arg!!! Two weeks later I drop a B30 in there and didn't look back. Thanks honey!!! Ha ha ha...
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Old 04-15-2017, 06:09 AM   #19
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If the cooling hoses are rock hard the head gasket is shot. Period.
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Old 04-15-2017, 12:59 PM   #20
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So after some research it is pretty clear that rebuilding this engine is not reasonable at all. Cost of resurfacing cylinder head and probably decking the block, plus cost of parts, and time it will take to take it apart and assemble back adds up. 330 engine in decent condition with 110k miles can be had from 1200-2000 delivered. Who knows, maybe I can score salvaged M3 off copart for similar price.

So small observation about the issue with the engine. I closed off ET cap and bleeder screw, and then applied air to cylinder #3 so that the pressure in coolant system builds up. Just as if engine was running and leaking in coolant system. I did this twice. First time I opened the expansion tank cap slowly until coolant started to come out. Second time I opened bleeder screw only and it bleed air/pressure out.

If temporary fix with gasket sealant doesn't work, what if something can be rigged up to have same effect as having bleeder screw open? In my observation ET cap does not bleed pressure nor coolant that is being pushed by the cylinder. Also driving the car with bleeder screw open is no go as coolant will spill out of bleeder screw opening. So what I have in mind is drilling a hole at the top of ET filling neck and screwing in some fitting. Then I can remove bleeder screw and run hose to drilled hole. If engine is under load then coolant form bleeder screw will go back to expansion tank, but should stop flowing if engine is idling and ET cap should be able to bleed air pressure. Maybe... I have spare ET to try this if sealant doesn't work.

Again, I don't plan on rebuilding or keeping this engine. If it can last through out the summer than it will do its job.
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