Quick question about the bolts that hold the intake manifold to the head

Are they replaceable if one snaps?

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Sure they are. Search 'incolnel' and 'Arhennius.'

Many have issues getting the stud out, but it's replaceable...with a $20 bolt. Ouch!

According to the thread I think you'll find, some use some other grade of bolt...but I'm not sure how good/bad an idea that is.

You know of realoem.com I assume.

Originally Posted by dmax

Sure they are. Search 'incolnel' and 'Arhennius.'

Many have issues getting the stud out, but it's replaceable...with a $20 bolt. Ouch!

According to the thread I think you'll find, some use some other grade of bolt...but I'm not sure how good/bad an idea that is.

You know of realoem.com I assume.

I tried the search, but it looks like they are talking about the exhaust manifold. I'm talking about the bolts that hold the intake manifold to the engine.

These are the bolts I'm talking about. It looks like they are part of the engine block and not the head after all. Though I still am hoping they are replaceable.

Oh, I'm sorry...don't know how I missed that!

Sure the bolts are replaceable for the intake. You just have to get the snapped one out carefully.

Realoem.com Search under engine and then 'intake manifold.' I'll get you started! brb

Nope...under cylinder head.

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...13&hg=11&fg=15


I know you need #12...that might actually be the only one for attaching the intake mani...

Thanks! This info just made my morning ... actually probably my whole week.

Will you paint your tires green as a way to thank me? My car looks so strange being the only 3 with green tires. I'm trying to start a little revolution in modding. You want to get in on the ground floor?

Lol dmax, I wanna join the green wheel revolution. Find me some borbet type a il paint them green as the grass

^ Tires, not wheels. Just scuff up the tire with 100 grit sandpaper, prime with flexible bumper primer, then whatever color you want. I clear coated mine so they shine.

Unfortunately the way my wheels are turned in my sig photo, the green just doesn't show so well. I'll have to redo the photo some day.

Brokers bolts can be removed with an extractor kit. Just make sure you get you pilot hole drilled on center. If its a stud that broken its way more difficult due to the material the stud is made made from. They are way harder than your typical grade 8 bolt and usually require a carbide drill or bit to drill into. There is a separate extractor kit available to aid in removal especially if it is a pressed in stud versus a screw in type.

If there is any stud left to grab (and vice-grips etc are falling short) then these are super helpful - http://www.mactools.com/shoponline/p...uller-set.aspx.

If not, then you have to go the route suggested by redrider423, and drill/ extract. However, if you do go that route, do yourself a favor and purchase a left-handed drill bit. These will often walk the stud out as you drill the pilot hole.

Good luck!

Luke

Originally Posted by xfixkaos

Lol dmax, I wanna join the green wheel revolution. Find me some borbet type a il paint them green as the grass

Would photoshoped green tires count? I might join ...

Originally Posted by redrider423

Brokers bolts can be removed with an extractor kit. Just make sure you get you pilot hole drilled on center. If its a stud that broken its way more difficult due to the material the stud is made made from. They are way harder than your typical grade 8 bolt and usually require a carbide drill or bit to drill into. There is a separate extractor kit available to aid in removal especially if it is a pressed in stud versus a screw in type.

I think it is a a stud. I piked up the replacement ones at BMW today. I was hoping that one broken bolt would not create a vacuum leak, but the engine is all back together and there appears to be a substantial leak somewhere.

that might be it, but double check the vac lines behind the intake under the cabin air filter housing. If you moved that around when removing intake, they get dry rotted and crack pretty easily. Remove the panel the cabin air filter housing screws into to make access easier...that is, if this stud doesn't fit the issue.

HTH

Originally Posted by lmr2wil

If there is any stud left to grab (and vice-grips etc are falling short) then these are super helpful - http://www.mactools.com/shoponline/p...uller-set.aspx.

If not, then you have to go the route suggested by redrider423, and drill/ extract. However, if you do go that route, do yourself a favor and purchase a left-handed drill bit. These will often walk the stud out as you drill the pilot hole.

Good luck!

Luke

There is a stud left and that tool looks very helpful, but I can't figure out how it works.

By any chance would it be possible to basically only undo the break booster hose, oil dipstick hose, hose to the front of the valve cover, wire harness box and connectors, MAS hose, two hoses in the back and fuel rail harness to pull up the manifold. I'd like to do this with as little removal as possible - especially the fuel rail! I figure everything else is attached only to the manifold so I can kind of pull it off to the side.

I'm dreading this job because I basically just put everything back once and than pulled part of it out again and put it back a second time.

And one last question ... would a vacuum leak cause the eml light to come on?

A vac leak could cause that, but so could having left a number of connectors off.

When I did my intake (in the last few weeks), I'd forgotten a few connectors...and had the EML light...and CEL. As I started plugging things in, the lights disappeared!

That round connection to the icv gives a number of people problems...but you can reach it by just removing air box. I don't think you can wiggle around the intake too much, but maybe if that stud is in the right spot, you could get to it.

Don't forget that bolt on the bottom of mani prevents it from sliding down at all...and as it's plastic, you don't want to be bending it around too much.

Sucks. BTW, I didn't remove fuel rail at all...just the plugs for injectors...by pulling off the little wire clips on them. Don't lose them!

Also, you don't have a lot of free play from those vac lines or the fuel supply hoses in back either I don't think.

Definitely sucks! None of the stud is sitting proud of the intake mani?

Originally Posted by dmax

A vac leak could cause that, but so could having left a number of connectors off.

When I did my intake (in the last few weeks), I'd forgotten a few connectors...and had the EML light...and CEL. As I started plugging things in, the lights disappeared!

That round connection to the icv gives a number of people problems...but you can reach it by just removing air box. I don't think you can wiggle around the intake too much, but maybe if that stud is in the right spot, you could get to it.

Don't forget that bolt on the bottom of mani prevents it from sliding down at all...and as it's plastic, you don't want to be bending it around too much.

Sucks. BTW, I didn't remove fuel rail at all...just the plugs for injectors...by pulling off the little wire clips on them. Don't lose them!

Also, you don't have a lot of free play from those vac lines or the fuel supply hoses in back either I don't think.

Definitely sucks! None of the stud is sitting proud of the intake mani?

Congratulations on getting your car running good again. I can't wait to experience that feeling.

Actually the only thing I have not replaced are the little wire clips for the injector plugs. I was thinking that the injector plugs might be loose and causing the eml - but I figured that was a long shot.

I'm glad to hear the broken bolt is most likely not the cause of the problems. I know I have to fix it at some point - Just not ready to do it yet. I need a brake! Plus none of the bolt is sitting above the manifold.

I'll double check the ICV tomorrow, but I know the plug that connects the white connector on it is connected. I'm also going to remove the throttle body too insure there are no leaks. I did have some trouble with a round plug on the tb, but today I seemed to have put it in correctly and twisted the lock. It seemed fairly secure. I'm also thinking that I needed to reset something after adjusting that plug?

The other thing I wanted to ask about was brake cleaner. I read somewhere that I could spray it around the intake, tb, icv to see if there are any leaks. I also read that this might not be that safe! Considering I live in a condo complex I wanted to double check before trying this. Once in a while I can get the engine to idle without giving it gas. I figure I could try spraying at that time. Otherwise I would have to have my wife keep her foot on the gas and I'd like to try and avoid that especially if this method is not safe.

I think carb cleaner is safer, but either is safe(ish).

If you don't have the clips on the injectors, then that might be it.

Also, fyi, I didn't have an eml before I did the intake...did that for cooling system hard pipes. I got the eml because in wrapping things up, I forgot to plug back in a few things...Round plug (thought that was icv, not TB...but guess you're right)...the oil pressure sensor on ofh...and also the temp sensor...and I think I forgot one plug back by the driver...forget which one it was.

Get an inspection mirror and 100 lumen flashlight (or thereabouts) if you don't have those things...and start by just looking. It's hard to see the vac hoses behind the intake mani, but getting off the cabin air filter housing is very easy...ditto air box.

I can't see that that one broken stud is leading to a large enough leak that it would trigger eml. I think some electronic thing is unplugged...

Vanos solenoid maybe? Remember, you unplugged a lot of crap to remove that thing.

You could carefully spritz short blasts of carb cleaner by the likely sources of leaks. Your wife doesn't have to keep it running. If the engine spurts up where you spray, there's your leak...if your issue is a leak, that is.

I think you're going to find an unplugged connector. Sorry!