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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 10-20-2012, 09:00 AM   #141
Stinger9
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Sweet to have this behind you!
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:32 AM   #142
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Dude. $540 for them to drill it out and retap?
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Old 10-30-2012, 11:26 AM   #143
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Dude. $540 for them to drill it out and retap?
Outch but out of all fairness they have to drill out that big bolt and retap steel on the car frame. This is of course not easy as retapping alum on the engine block or something

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Old 11-01-2012, 02:27 AM   #144
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Yeah the cost was pretty insane. But honestly, a few days prior I had shops telling me this could potentially total out my car (read prior posts for reference)
So honestly, I was just happy to get my keys and have my car finally complete after a month and a half of working.
All because I hit an unknown piece of **** on the interstate. Ugh
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Old 11-01-2012, 06:48 AM   #145
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I am sorry I could not come out and rent or buy that magnetic mount drill to help you out. I really was looking forward to the chance! Maybe next time...
I am going to admit that I have not had time to read the whole thread since it reached page 4, but did you watch how they did it? How exactly did they do it? Did you get a detailed description of what they used? It would be good to know, even though you will hopefully need it again. Could you bear to watch the entire process?
$400 or not, I am glad you got it done. Have you considered having it put on a frame machine to see if everything is back in its proper place? I know it may be a while before you can justify spending more on it, but I would be very curious to know, at least before the next Autocross event.

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Old 09-27-2013, 09:33 AM   #146
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Russian172's idea just saved my ass! I stumbled across this thread because I jus got a well...very used 323i...and the O2 sensor like "bung" part inside the frame was missing in the same location as peyton's sheared off bolt. I feel dumb, but I didn't even think of using a bolt there instead of a nut until I read this. Hope it works.
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Old 09-28-2013, 04:24 AM   #147
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Front subframe reinforcement bolt broke. **UPDATE** WTF!

I hate this thread. Another one of these bolts broke on me last weekend. It broke in the front subframe though. Not the actual frame.
I tried backing it out myself and got it a half turn until I broke my reverse bit. I broke two drill bits after that until I stopped. Going to call a different shop soon to see if they can get it out.
This one is less worry some to me because of its location compared to last time. The triangle is still mounted at 3 corners. So it's still functional.
stupid bolts. Why do they break so easily
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Old 09-28-2013, 02:16 PM   #148
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Originally Posted by peytonracer4 View Post
I hate this thread. Another one of these bolts broke on me last weekend. It broke in the front subframe though. Not the actual frame.
I tried backing it out myself and got it a half turn until I broke my reverse bit. I broke two drill bits after that until I stopped. Going to call a different shop soon to see if they can get it out.
This one is less worry some to me because of its location compared to last time. The triangle is still mounted at 3 corners. So it's still functional.
stupid bolts. Why do they break so easily
They break because they are torque to yield bolts, you must use new bolts.
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Old 09-28-2013, 04:28 PM   #149
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Front subframe reinforcement bolt broke. **UPDATE** WTF!

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Originally Posted by ddaniel1 View Post
They break because they are torque to yield bolts, you must use new bolts.
I did.
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Old 09-28-2013, 04:39 PM   #150
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Are you using a torque angle meter? If so I would question the torque wrench cal. I had one go out of cal once and I started snapping rod bolts on an engine I was rebuilding. Also MJ's suggestion of blue loctite above is solid.
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