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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 10-08-2012, 08:31 AM   #1
justanotherone
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Florida
Posts: 128
My Ride: 02 e46 m3
Car didn't start & Fault Codes read!

Put everything in my car ready to go to school, turn the key, hear zzzzzzz but car doesn't crank. I try it again but wait a few seconds with the key in position two in order for the fuel pump to do it's thing, then I try, but still nothing just the zzzzzzz.

This has happened before, intermittent start issue, so this time around I didn't really freak out. Transferred book bag and all into the other car about to leave my baby in the driveway. But, I figured I'd use the Peake Research Fault Code Reader before I said deuces. These are the codes I got: 1b b3, 69, 01, 10. Before it was just just 1b b3, 69…If I'm reading the manual and codes correctly this is what they mean:

1b b3: Catalyst system efficiency, Bank 2.
1b 69: Engine Coolant Temperature, Plausibility.
1b 01: Fuel pump relay.
1b 10: Crankshaft sensor.

I figure I need a new fuel pump relay and crankshaft sensor? Not sure where neither of them go, but I'll look them up when I get home. I recently changed my fuel filter so I know that's not clogged or nothing. Last time this problem happened my parents' friend jump started the car by having me push him. According to TurnerMotorsports, the fuel pump relay should be $13 and I'm guessing crankshaft sensor probably around $80. As for code 1b 69, I'm gonna buy the BMW coolant and add some and see if that makes it go away. Also, last time I was checking my coolant level I broke the little stick when I was pulling it up, could that cause that code? As for the car not starting, the fuel pump relay and crankshaft sensors are good starting points? I want to change my fuel pump, but I need to save up for that first. Thanks for all inputs!
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:54 AM   #2
jfoj
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Fairfax, VA USA
Posts: 10,895
My Ride: '06 330CiC, '03 M5
Slow down a bit here.

Clear your codes then try to start the car again and see what codes show up.

I see you have a M3, on the E39 M5 when the fuel pump dies it throws a fuel pump relay error as the fuel pump finalizes the test circuit for the fuel pump relay. I expect the E46 M3 fuel pump and control circuit is almost the same as I have never heard of a non M3 trigger a fuel pump relay code.

My money is you need a new fuel pump, also replace the filter as well (I just realized you stated your fuel filter had been recently changed).

See the 2nd link below in my signature.

The M3 fuel pump is far more expensive than the non M3 cars. You will likely only find the fuel pump at a dealer and not a 3rd party supplier. Suggest you check with the dealers that have Internet parts groups as they will be FAR cheaper than walking in to the local dealer parts department. You will be close to the $300 mark for a M3 fuel pump from my guess.

Crank sensor may be a red herring and the b3 and 69 codes are most likely related?? You may have a bad thermostat however, you can see my signature for the Hidden OBC Menu to figure out if the engine is not coming up to temperature. I use the Oil Temp more of an indicator of how the thermostat is doing on my M5.
__________________
Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose fan switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299

Last edited by jfoj; 10-08-2012 at 08:55 AM.
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:13 AM   #3
justanotherone
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Florida
Posts: 128
My Ride: 02 e46 m3
@jfoj Ok! I'll reset the codes and try starting it again when I get home and let you know how that goes (most likely won't be until later like 10:30-11pmish). Wouldn't be surprised if car started on first try. TurnerMotorsport has the m3 fuel pumps for $350, thank gosh I've been saving up for these rainy days. Are both the fuel pump relay and and fuel pump underneath the rear seats? Would this be an easy diy? I see from your post you like to know at around how many miles the fuel pumps have been going bad, I'm at about 80k right now. If I jump start the car, and the problem doesn't occur for a few weeks that wouldn't rule out the fuel pump, would it?
Haha wasn't sure what "red herring," but now I know lol. Learn something new everyday! You live and you learn! I would hope it is a red herring.
As for the b3 and 69 codes, have no idea what they mean, could they have anything to do with DSC and tire pressure light coming on intermittently? Is this the http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-23...h-o-rings.aspx ? Thanks! Haven't taken a look at your OBC thread yet, but I will.
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:58 AM   #4
jfoj
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Fairfax, VA USA
Posts: 10,895
My Ride: '06 330CiC, '03 M5
Fuel pump is $300 from www.bmwmercedesparts.com They usually ship quickly (FedEx) for all shipments and for next day they used to only charge less than $15 FedEx shipping. They have very fair shipping prices from my experience and if they have the part in stock, the get it out the same day.

Seems the pumps have recently gone up in price as well. You might see if you can find any online coupons that may give you a discount.

As for the relay, is is located behind the glovebox, kind of a PITA to get to. I am not sure I would be all over the fuel pump relay, but on the non M cars, you can swap the horn relay with the fuel pump relay, not sure the M cars this is the case?? Suggest you check www.realoem.com for part numbers if are interested in figuring out the part numbers.

As for the fuel pump, do not push the clutch in when you turn the key and try and listen to see if the fuel pump primes. This is the real thing to determine if the pump is actually bad. Sometimes the pumps intermittently will not work, then next time you try to start the car they may work. I see them start to have problems once the outside air temps start to drop lower than usual.

As for the 2 codes I mentioned - 69 & b3

I was just being lazy and did not want to retype the description, I just cut and pasted here for you again from your original post.

1b b3: Catalyst system efficiency, Bank 2.
1b 69: Engine Coolant Temperature, Plausibility.

Many times when you have Catalyst System Efficiency codes you may get a Engine Coolant Temperature, Plausibility code along with it.

Most Catalyst System Efficiency codes are due to exhaust leaks and/or bad Post Cat O2 sensors. The exhaust leaks can even happen around the O2 bung weld and they are hard to locate, they are hairline cracks that expand when the exhaust warms up. If you want to replace the Post Cat O2 sensors, look on Amazon, you can get Bosch O2 sensors for under $50 each typically.

As for the Engine Coolant Temperature, Plausibility you need to monitor you engine temp carefully using the Hidden OBC Menu. Once the outside air temps drop below 70F you need to make sure your engine can maintain 79C, if not, you need to replace your thermostat and do it before it gets too cold outside. These thermostat typically fail open and usually only last only 2-4 years.

As for crank sensor issues, the do fail, however, almost every M car I have looked at has crank sensor shadow codes.

The key here is to log the date, mileage and what codes you get, clear the codes, then check them as soon as the CEL pops back on and see what codes reappear.

If the fuel pump is bad and the engine does not start you should get an immediate Fuel Pump Relay code. Again, this is a real red herring and misleads everyone on the M cars. BMW needed to put a series resistor in the fuel tank sender then they could have accurately determined a fuel pump vs a fuel pump relay failure. But they did not ask my opinion when they designed the circuit!
__________________
Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose fan switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 10-08-2012, 01:59 PM   #5
adaseb
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Canada
Posts: 1,078
My Ride: 2002 BMW 320i
Does the car crank or does it just not start at all? You sure your battery isn't bad?
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Old 10-08-2012, 02:56 PM   #6
jdstrickland
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Murrieta, CA
Posts: 7,092
My Ride: '94 325iC & '00 323i
Quote:
Originally Posted by justanotherone View Post
Put everything in my car ready to go to school, turn the key, hear zzzzzzz but car doesn't crank. I try it again but wait a few seconds with the key in position two in order for the fuel pump to do it's thing, then I try, but still nothing just the zzzzzzz.

This has happened before, intermittent start issue, so this time around I didn't really freak out. Transferred book bag and all into the other car about to leave my baby in the driveway. But, I figured I'd use the Peake Research Fault Code Reader before I said deuces. These are the codes I got: 1b b3, 69, 01, 10. Before it was just just 1b b3, 69…If I'm reading the manual and codes correctly this is what they mean:

1b b3: Catalyst system efficiency, Bank 2.
1b 69: Engine Coolant Temperature, Plausibility.
1b 01: Fuel pump relay.
1b 10: Crankshaft sensor.

I figure I need a new fuel pump relay and crankshaft sensor? Not sure where neither of them go, but I'll look them up when I get home. I recently changed my fuel filter so I know that's not clogged or nothing. Last time this problem happened my parents' friend jump started the car by having me push him. According to TurnerMotorsports, the fuel pump relay should be $13 and I'm guessing crankshaft sensor probably around $80. As for code 1b 69, I'm gonna buy the BMW coolant and add some and see if that makes it go away. Also, last time I was checking my coolant level I broke the little stick when I was pulling it up, could that cause that code? As for the car not starting, the fuel pump relay and crankshaft sensors are good starting points? I want to change my fuel pump, but I need to save up for that first. Thanks for all inputs!
1b b3: Catalyst system efficiency, Bank 2.
1b 69: Engine Coolant Temperature, Plausibility.

These should not cause the car to fail to start. Indeed, there should be little if any indication that there is a problem if the seat of your pants is the only means you had of determing if the car was running right or not. The CAT code says that the CAT for Bank 2 is not working very well. You would never know this by inputs through the seat of your pants. The code for coolant temp _might_, maybe, translate to fuel trim variances that you could feel in the seat of your pants, but it will never cause the engine to shut off or give difficulty in starting.



1b 01: Fuel pump relay.
1b 10: Crankshaft sensor.

Both of these codes could give symptoms of difficulty in starting and cause driveability issues that percolate up through your pants.
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Old 10-08-2012, 04:20 PM   #7
justanotherone
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Florida
Posts: 128
My Ride: 02 e46 m3
@jfoj @adaseb Since my last class got out early I decided of instead of going straight to work I'd stop back home. Had to skip tutoring but I figured it was for the care of my baby, a good cause. So I get home maybe a little less than an hour ago and it's relatively hotter outside than it was this morning. Although this is South Florida, doesn't get too cold compare to up north. So I try to crank the car without depressing the clutch like you said, car does not start, I just hear the zzzzzzzzzz. As if something is spinning or trying to latch but nothing is latching. Then I go inside and check this thread and see the post about the battery. I had the battery check at Advance Auto Sports when this happened last time and their battery reader thing came out saying the battery was in good condition. They check the battery in the trunk not the positive under the hood. He tried to plug it with the positive under the hood, but he wasn't getting a reading. I figured won't hurt to try jump starting it. So I'm getting the cables ready and popped the hood to the other car and go inside the baby to pop it's hood. I'm like let me try it one more time and before turning the key to the start position I tap the gas pedal twice, seeing if that would get the fuel going or help in any way. And then I try starting it and the car starts, I did however have to hold it for a little longer than usual. Then turned it off and put the cables back inside. Tried starting it, nothing, did the accelerating pedal thing again and help it for a little longer than usual and car started. This was when my gas tank was just below 1/2 quantity. So I drive to Publix to get a sub before work and stop by the fast station filled it up and it worked fine from then on. Sorry for the long paragraph.

@jdstrickland lol what's up with the, "seat of your pants" mentions. But haha thanks for the input!

Edit: @jfoj also resetted the code, waiting to see which codes show up first.

Last edited by justanotherone; 10-08-2012 at 04:28 PM. Reason: Adding more info!
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Old 10-08-2012, 04:30 PM   #8
jdstrickland
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Murrieta, CA
Posts: 7,092
My Ride: '94 325iC & '00 323i
Seat of your pants is a reference to the old diagnostics that people used before there was OBD II. You would -- wait for it -- feel the car do things wrong. This was referred to as, through the seat of your pants. Pilots of old would, fly by the seat of their pants. This meant that they had to fly without instruments. Your grandpa had to describe how his Model T Ford felt or sounded when it wasn't running right, this was the automotive equivelent of flying by the seat of yoru pants.

Your car doesn't start, and you gave 4 codes. 2 of those codes have no affect on whether the car will start or how it might feel while driving. The other two directly affect how the car might run, and how it would feel if it did run.
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